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Sockser posted:I pre-ordered lol lmao
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Apr 6, 2022 20:20
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First test print done https://imgur.com/a/Not1U8T Looks pretty good to me!
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Apr 6, 2022 21:04
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Wondering if anyone with a Creality Ender 3 has moved the electronics to outside a tent. Mine gets to about 30° inside and I guess I'm in the market to move everything out, but it'd be nice to know what kinds of cabling I'm going to need.
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Apr 7, 2022 00:33
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mewse posted:Anyone have any insight on what the story is with LDO motors? When you google their parts it seems almost exclusively like 3rd string web shops that stock their stuff, they've got no official aliexpress vendor, it seems like prusa motors + LCD assemblies are made by LDO? Are they some traditional manufacturer that doesn't engage with 3D printing too much? http://ldomotors.com/about quote:LDO Motors Co., Ltd. is a professional manufacturer and exporter of electric motors in China, with an excellent reputation. We specialize in customizing our high performance motors with various applications, and in a position to accept orders as per customers' samples, customized designs, specifications and even packing requirements. Looks like they are a part supplier for custom electric motors. You can buy commodity stepper motors but can't guarantee quality/materials/parts. If you place a custom order with a supplier you can specify exacting tolerances and guaranteed materials. Do you want the output shaft to be chrome plated? solid 316 stainless? gold plated? 14, 18 or 24 karat, sir? Commodity parts are built to meet a specific price point; custom parts are sold at cost + margin, and have longer lead times, but generally are way better. If you're building a fly by night 3d printer company, commodity steppers are fine, if you are building your reputation on The Best Quality, you probably end up ordering custom steppers and then bake the higher price into the final cost to customers
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Apr 7, 2022 01:10
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I'm pretty sure I need to replace the FEP film on my Elegoo Mars after never doing so for uh, years. Is it worth it to just get the screens and install them myself or get an entire new tank? Might also be time to finally grab a flexible build plate.
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Apr 7, 2022 01:31
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Serenade posted:I'm pretty sure I need to replace the FEP film on my Elegoo Mars after never doing so for uh, years. Just buy the feps themselves. Also yes on a flex plate.
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Apr 7, 2022 01:47
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cruft posted:Wondering if anyone with a Creality Ender 3 has moved the electronics to outside a tent. Mine gets to about 30° inside and I guess I'm in the market to move everything out, but it'd be nice to know what kinds of cabling I'm going to need. I doubt you need to worry if you're only getting the internal temperatures to 30C. That's not terribly hot for most electronics. While it's true that you don't know how much the ambient temperature is affecting parts where you don't have temperature sensors, like inside the power supply, 30C is 86F which is just a warm room temperature. If you wanted to move the control board outside you'd need to extend all of the cables for the four steppers, three end stop sensors, bed heater and temp sensor, nozzle heater and thermistor, and the hotend and parts cooling fans. There's also the ribbon cables for the display and click knob assembly, but if you moved the mainboard outside you would probably be able to use the existing cables if you moved that, too. If I were in your situation and worried about heat I'd probably only move the power supply outside and just see about an extension for the XT connectors it connects to the rest of the system with.
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Apr 7, 2022 01:47
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Rexxed posted:While it's true that you don't know how much the ambient temperature is affecting parts where you don't have temperature sensors, like inside the power supply, 30C is 86F which is just a warm room temperature. Well, you know, that's just a darned good point. I suppose running things to failure and then replacing them with longer cables and external housing isn't a terrible move. Thanks!
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Apr 7, 2022 02:54
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I just got a $250 refund from ticketmaster, any good printers recommended at that price point right now?
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Apr 7, 2022 02:56
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The Demilich posted:I just got a $250 refund from ticketmaster, any good printers recommended at that price point right now? The Ender 3 has been pretty solid. I got the v2 but the base one isn't that much different (and I replaced the glass bed anyway).
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Apr 7, 2022 03:00
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I think the upgrades you get from the v2 are worth it over the base model. So another vote for ender 3 v2.
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Apr 7, 2022 04:44
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Mikey Purp posted:What's a good resource for info on voron printers and where to buy kits? I'm looking to upgrade from my Ender 3 and am currently on the preorder list for the Prusa XL, but the voron also seems worth a look for my use case (mostly printing wargaming terrain using PLA, would love something bigger and faster than my Ender). PLA is the worst-case scenario for a Voron. Go for a RatRig.
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Apr 7, 2022 04:48
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insta posted:PLA is the worst-case scenario for a Voron. Go for a RatRig. Erhh? The Voron should excel at printing PLA
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Apr 7, 2022 06:15
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The Voron is geared for ABS, with a relatively hot print chamber. But take the side plates off and it will print PLA just fine.
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Apr 7, 2022 06:17
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This was a new one for me - Bowden tube popped off the extruder. At least I can just wind the filament back up.
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Apr 7, 2022 11:43
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This looks nice: https://www.theverge.com/23012424/anker-first-3d-printer-ankermake-m5-price-specs-launch
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Apr 7, 2022 14:30
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Gay Retard posted:This looks nice: It does, but I have some concerns about maintainability with all that fancy trim. I'm also not a huge fan of putting the control panel on a moving part of the gantry.
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Apr 7, 2022 14:59
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I’m using commercial resin print curing machines, and man, using shielding gas or a vacuum cure is the poo poo. idk how i can go back to just curing prints in boring ol open air. using nitrogen to shield prints ain’t exactly DIY-friendly, but a vacuum curing chamber shouldn’t be that hard to rig up given access to a little vacuum pump. no consumables required, you avoid having to immerse prints in water, and you get much better results without increasing cure times…
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Apr 7, 2022 18:14
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How does vacuum and or nitrogen improve the curing?
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Apr 7, 2022 18:39
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Wibla posted:The Voron is geared for ABS, with a relatively hot print chamber. But take the side plates off and it will print PLA just fine. Does anyone print abs at volume any more?
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Apr 7, 2022 18:45
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Hadlock posted:Does anyone print abs at volume any more? Yes, ABS rocks. Most Voron kits anymore (since people only care about kits) come with Dragons. Dragon + PLA + stock AB = jam. It happens, constantly. It's like 30% of our support tickets. Just use ABS if you've built a Voron, and build something else if you want sweet CoreXY and PLA. There's plenty.
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Apr 7, 2022 20:12
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Bucnasti posted:How does vacuum and or nitrogen improve the curing? You get a much more thorough and complete surface cure without any overcuring / you can use shorter cure cycles with less embrittling, and it prevents any post-cure tackiness or post-cure failures. Apparently also yields superior mechanical properties, and that feels right to me, but I haven’t verified that part.
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Apr 7, 2022 21:07
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...now I'm wondering how an FDM machine printing higher temp materials would function inside a vacuum chamber. No air to conduct heat = the heat soaks into the material/back into the printer itself, so it'd probably be a disaster, but it'd be neat to see.
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Apr 7, 2022 23:22
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insta posted:Yes, ABS rocks. So I just finished building my 2.4 kit, I haven’t fully enclosed it yet but I’ve been printing PLA with a dragon HF for the past 2 days with 0 issues. I guess it’s because it’s not enclosed yet? Edit: Just finished installing the 5” touchscreen.   Slowly printing all the additional skirts and whatnot. mattfl fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Apr 7, 2022 |
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Apr 7, 2022 23:31
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Thread seems to like prusa, is there a consensus on the ender 3 S1 pro?
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Apr 7, 2022 23:51
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I have an Ender 3 v2 and I like Prusa. But I didn't have that kind of money. Pretty happy with my purchase.
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Apr 8, 2022 00:03
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ilkhan posted:Thread seems to like prusa, is there a consensus on the ender 3 S1 pro? Initial impressions I've seen on the S1 is its an ender 3 with most of the fixes people would want to make already included. No idea on longevity or if they took any shortcuts there, but I haven't see any reviews slapping it down yet.
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Apr 8, 2022 00:09
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insta posted:Most Voron kits anymore (since people only care about kits) come with Dragons. Dragon + PLA + stock AB = jam. It happens, constantly. It's like 30% of our support tickets. I just don't get these mythical jams on a HF with PLA. Stock AB, Dragon HF with a steel nozzle and a 60w heater, and either eSun or Polyterra PLA. It's as reliable as can be. I even leave the side panels on. Just what are people doing to jam these ?
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Apr 8, 2022 01:23
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ilkhan posted:Thread seems to like prusa, is there a consensus on the ender 3 S1 pro? All the reviews I've watched of it make me wish I had one over my ender 3 v2! Direct drive is really so much easier for dealing with different material types, and it's ready to print higher temp materials as it comes. It has nearly every upgrade I purchased for my machine and some extras. Like others have said I can't speak from personal ownership but I think it has great specs and good reviews if you're trying to print more than just PLA. I love my prusa mk3s+ but I'm glad I started with an ender 3 v2, if the s1 or s1 pro had been out I probably would have gotten it.
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Apr 8, 2022 02:22
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Sounds like a plan then. Thanks y'all
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Apr 8, 2022 02:46
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snail posted:I just don't get these mythical jams on a HF with PLA. Stock AB, Dragon HF with a steel nozzle and a 60w heater, and either eSun or Polyterra PLA. It's as reliable as can be. I also printed just fine without panels, but the second I enclosed the printer (leaving the doors open) I stopped getting pla prints. I don't find it to be a heat issue so much as a bed/offset issue that is highlighted by the fact there is more ambient temps... But it's still not THAT hot in there. Klicky rocks, but I have rebuilt the probe already, and I have a new toolhead insert built because maybe my wiring is suspect. I have additional switches ready to go as well because I just can't get consistent probe points Either my belts are wonky and it's throwing the probe off, or the probe is wonky giving me the occasional bad reading. Leaning towards the latter since the same corner can probe with a standard deviation of .01 and . 008 seemingly at random. I also have the old induction probe handy to just go back and get a baseline of exactly wtf is going on.
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Apr 8, 2022 13:47
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I wanted to print out some small pieces to use in miniature and scale model hobbies, and the cheapest I could find on craftcloud was about £60. Naturally I started looking at printers 10x that cost out of stubborness. I'm definitely looking for an SLA printer and my priorities are sharp details and minimal stepping to smooth over - I read the OP and I'm kind of torn between the Anycubic M3 Plus and Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K. Phrozens is higher res but I've heard the Anycubics are sharper due to how they handle light bleed? It's been surprisingly difficult to find useful reviews.
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Apr 8, 2022 16:34
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biracial bear for uncut posted:...now I'm wondering how an FDM machine printing higher temp materials would function inside a vacuum chamber. It's an interesting thought experiment - I think it just wouldn't work, at least at any kind of reasonable speed, because the point is that the plastic comes out liquid (well not quite) and turns solid (well not quite) ASAP. I suppose it could work if you could really finely control the temp of the hotend and were using a filament that had a really sharp transition temperature, such that all of the cooling came from warming up the layer below, keeping the rest of the part just below the transition temperature, but then that's more about a special unobtainium filament than it is about the atmosphere Conversely, what about printing in an atmosphere that's much *more* thermally conductive? Enough so that the filament is completely solid a mm or less after it comes out of the nozzle? Obviously traditional layered printing wouldn't work because there'd be no adhesion between layers but you could definitely do some interesting stuff - although I realise I'm just talking about those freehand 3D pens now.
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Apr 8, 2022 16:43
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snail posted:I just don't get these mythical jams on a HF with PLA. Stock AB, Dragon HF with a steel nozzle and a 60w heater, and either eSun or Polyterra PLA. It's as reliable as can be. There's a lot of "well I don't get into accidents driving drunk" when it comes to dragon + pla. I'm in the helpdesk queue. We get a lot of "my hotend is clogged" tickets. It's always Dragon + PLA.
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Apr 8, 2022 17:21
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Hmm, so I took a look at the ratrig and it seems to be more expensive than the voron kit. I have a pretty fair bit of experience with FDM printers, so that plus the anecdotal evidence itt make me feel like I could probably make PLA work on the voron even with the dragon hot end. But the question is: is the enclosure actually necessary for the voron, and how difficult is it to just put the enclosure on and off when needed? If the voron isn't the right fit, what other quality corexy kits are out there at a similar or lower price point that would poo poo my needs?
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Apr 8, 2022 17:37
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ffs people "I'm going to build a machine tailor-made for printing ABS. The first thing I'm going to do is print PLA." Just print ABS. It JustWorks on a Voron. There is no step 3.
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Apr 8, 2022 18:06
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Mikey Purp posted:
BLV MGN Cube. https://www.blvprojects.com/blv-mgn-cube-3d-printer I'm very happy with mine. Only caveat is that the bed that comes with the kits is useless. Budget for a better (thicker) aluminum bed + heating element.
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Apr 8, 2022 18:17
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's an interesting thought experiment - I think it just wouldn't work, at least at any kind of reasonable speed, because the point is that the plastic comes out liquid (well not quite) and turns solid (well not quite) ASAP. I suppose it could work if you could really finely control the temp of the hotend and were using a filament that had a really sharp transition temperature, such that all of the cooling came from warming up the layer below, keeping the rest of the part just below the transition temperature, but then that's more about a special unobtainium filament than it is about the atmosphere It would probably be an ideal environment for UHMWPE filament. I still have most of a spool that I've never got a successful print out of because the thermal shock of ambient air temperatures causes it to curl almost immediately out of the nozzle. Edit: Found this animation that can probably be posted with 3d printer purchase recommendations (though honestly it applies to everything). https://i.imgur.com/QKyHTqm.mp4
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Apr 8, 2022 18:35
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I suppose it could work if you could really finely control the temp of the hotend and were using a filament that had a really sharp transition temperature, such that all of the cooling came from warming up the layer below, keeping the rest of the part just below the transition temperature, but then that's more about a special unobtainium filament than it is about the atmosphere jam some 1.6mm 63-37 eutectic solder into your extruder and see what happens
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Apr 8, 2022 18:42
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I've had my Prusa Mini for a few days now, I'm getting the hang of it and have already printed several parts of my own design... Now I'm kind of itching to try some D&D miniatures. Is there a good source for free models? Would you generally print that sort of thing in PLA, PETG, or ABS? Or do models really need a resin printer to do properly?
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Apr 8, 2022 18:58
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