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Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva
MisterCraft is releasing a Ghost of Kyiv kit.

Don't get excited because it's an old lovely mold with raised panel lines and based on past experience terrible decal quality.

It does have a great and realistic pilot figure though:

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MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Wow, they really captured the likeness of the pilot and his seat in the instructions!

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




MrUnderbridge posted:

Wow, they really captured the likeness of the pilot and his seat in the instructions!

He has a butt on his head.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
What color, speaking in terms of historical accuracy, was a Zero?









Who cares?

Tamiya 1/72 Zero 22, I think. Got away from me pretty much exactly once I hit the wash phase - paint just started to come off, the wash was staying where it shouldn't, I started to realize how boring the thing looks as a "clean" model, I start to realize how surprisingly 70s the whole thing looks, but hey, I tore myself away from Elden Ring long enough to start and finish a kit this month.

If I had to do it over again, I'd give the black another highlight pass or two, and I think I'm going to have to try actual enamel washes at some point instead of futzing around with oils.

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013

SkunkDuster posted:

Now that you have two of them, you can figure out what is wrong with the first one by swapping parts and seeing where the problem follows. I had to do that on a Badger 150 where the O-ring for the air valve was sliding out of the groove when I let air through, but would slide back into it's proper spot once the airflow stopped. When I disassembled it, everything looked exactly as it should. It wasn't until I swapped that part out with one from my other 150 that I narrowed it down to that loose O-ring.

I also have an HP-CS, so if you can describe the problem and what you've tried, I might be able to help.

Thanks! I'm a bit nervous to try that because the new one is working so well. The trigger action is so much smoother. I had replaced the nozzle and packing screw on the old one, deep cleaned everything, adjusted the packing screw back and forth. I think I posted a bit about it, but it was very fiddly avoiding bubbles in the cup when pushing air but no paint with a finger over the "muzzle". I also had replaced the forward O-ring so I'm thinking the nozzle is having issues seating snugly to the body - further supported by a bit of chapstick between the two helping.

I also suspect I have the packing screw way too tight. When I replaced it I tightened where there was just the slightest hint of resistance as the needle passed through, and after about 30 seconds of spraying Stynylrez I had paint all through the packing screw. I ended up with it so tight I need a significant amount of pressure to get the needle through. What I suspect is at some point I pulled a dirty needle out from the back on the original packing screw, damaged it, and then went from one extreme to the other with replacement.

I did also notice that the new airbrush gave me some spotty grey primer laydown - idk the exact term, but when you basically have a visible, ugly buildup of wet paint on a part but the coverage is so uneven and poor you can still see through the coat. I'm running Stynylrez and vallejo air at 2-25 psi with a .35mm, so my core problem probably exists between the airbrush and the chair I'm sitting on, and I need to work on my airbrushing.

Gewehr 43 posted:

Doesn't Iwata offer a pretty reasonable overhaul service for their airbrushes? Might be worth looking into.

That's also the impression I had, and I may do just this, but patience is not my strong suit thus the kinda-impulse buy.

I could always try putting the old airbrush in the box and returning it because *reasons*. I'm kidding, I wouldn't seriously do this.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

grassy gnoll posted:

Tamiya 1/72 Zero 22, I think. Got away from me pretty much exactly once I hit the wash phase - paint just started to come off, the wash was staying where it shouldn't, I started to realize how boring the thing looks as a "clean" model, I start to realize how surprisingly 70s the whole thing looks, but hey, I tore myself away from Elden Ring long enough to start and finish a kit this month.

If I had to do it over again, I'd give the black another highlight pass or two, and I think I'm going to have to try actual enamel washes at some point instead of futzing around with oils.

That's really great - looks like a 'What if a Zero took part in the Reno Air Races?'

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Vorenus posted:

Thanks! I'm a bit nervous to try that because the new one is working so well. The trigger action is so much smoother. I had replaced the nozzle and packing screw on the old one, deep cleaned everything, adjusted the packing screw back and forth. I think I posted a bit about it, but it was very fiddly avoiding bubbles in the cup when pushing air but no paint with a finger over the "muzzle". I also had replaced the forward O-ring so I'm thinking the nozzle is having issues seating snugly to the body - further supported by a bit of chapstick between the two helping.

What do you mean by "muzzle"? The tip? If you cover the tip, press the trigger to start air, and pull back, the air will go back into the paint reservoir because it has nowhere else to go. People do this intentionally sometimes to mix their paints in the color cup.

Vorenus posted:

I did also notice that the new airbrush gave me some spotty grey primer laydown - idk the exact term, but when you basically have a visible, ugly buildup of wet paint on a part but the coverage is so uneven and poor you can still see through the coat. I'm running Stynylrez and vallejo air at 2-25 psi with a .35mm, so my core problem probably exists between the airbrush and the chair I'm sitting on, and I need to work on my airbrushing.

There are some folks out there who are able to work with Vallejo paints OK, but I'm definitely not one of them -- my suggestion would be to try different paints if you're trying to figure out airbrushing, but you need to be willing to cross the stink-divide and work with solvents. Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner works ridiculously well as a primer, for example.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




grassy gnoll posted:



If I had to do it over again, I'd give the black another highlight pass or two, and I think I'm going to have to try actual enamel washes at some point instead of futzing around with oils.

Uber-jealous of the panel lines on the white.

Orange is good too.

Did you do the silver as paint then mask, or mask the Orange and Black then paint silver?

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Thanks.

The upper surfaces are actually the same white (light grey, really) as the underside. I painted first, then masked the stripes. The black fore end got painted first, with some crude masking over the original to protect the soon-to-be-orange areas, then vice versa.

Definitely varnish before masking - even sticking and unsticking the Tamiya tape I was using, a huge chunk of the white on the left-hand wing came up straight to the plastic.

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013

MyronMulch posted:

What do you mean by "muzzle"? The tip? If you cover the tip, press the trigger to start air, and pull back, the air will go back into the paint reservoir because it has nowhere else to go. People do this intentionally sometimes to mix their paints in the color cup.


You can do it without pulling back, like I said air but no paint. It's a good way to check for obstructions.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Vorenus posted:

You can do it without pulling back, like I said air but no paint. It's a good way to check for obstructions.

If I got air in the paint cup after blocking the tip and triggering air (but not pulling back for paint) I would assume that the needle is not seating properly in the nozzle, and thus offering a path for the air to travel back to the color cup.

Riatsala
Nov 20, 2013

All Princesses are Tyrants

Hey Scale Modelling Thread! I am a lapsed Warhammer player now environmental educator and I'm fishing around for advice regarding water resistant model landscapes. What I'm aiming to make is a relatively simple model landscape that I can dust with dry substances to represent pollution, then spray the whole thing down with a gentle spray bottle so that kids can watch the water drain and carry all of the "pollution" off the edge of the model and into a clear plastic basin. I'm familiar with creating model battlefields, terrain, and working with scale tools but I have no idea how to go about protecting it such that it can hold up to dozens of wet demos every year.

Obviously a lot of scale model pieces are plastic and will probably be just fine, but any tips for water proof landscape materials or sealants? Either google sucks now or this isn't a common concern outside of garden train sets.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE


Riatsala posted:

Hey Scale Modelling Thread! I am a lapsed Warhammer player now environmental educator and I'm fishing around for advice regarding water resistant model landscapes. What I'm aiming to make is a relatively simple model landscape that I can dust with dry substances to represent pollution, then spray the whole thing down with a gentle spray bottle so that kids can watch the water drain and carry all of the "pollution" off the edge of the model and into a clear plastic basin. I'm familiar with creating model battlefields, terrain, and working with scale tools but I have no idea how to go about protecting it such that it can hold up to dozens of wet demos every year.

Obviously a lot of scale model pieces are plastic and will probably be just fine, but any tips for water proof landscape materials or sealants? Either google sucks now or this isn't a common concern outside of garden train sets.

Using non-water soluble paints and glues would be my first go-to, but also a couple of final coats of spray varnish or sealant to help ensure that water isn't going to make something soggy.

I don't know if I would use turf for the landscape as much as I would use texture paints (like the big jugs of paint infused with sand or coarser ballast from Liquitex, not the wee pots from Citadel) and then colour it accordingly for whatever kind of surface it is meant to replicate. In fact, I would mix colours or pigments into the texture paint while it is wet so it is not simply a surface that can be abraded. I'd still follow through with a few coats of spray varnish or sealant though, and include some kind of gutters or catchment around the base of the model to capture the runoff.

Scut
Aug 26, 2008

Please remind me to draw more often.
Soiled Meat

Riatsala posted:

Hey Scale Modelling Thread! I am a lapsed Warhammer player now environmental educator and I'm fishing around for advice regarding water resistant model landscapes. What I'm aiming to make is a relatively simple model landscape that I can dust with dry substances to represent pollution, then spray the whole thing down with a gentle spray bottle so that kids can watch the water drain and carry all of the "pollution" off the edge of the model and into a clear plastic basin. I'm familiar with creating model battlefields, terrain, and working with scale tools but I have no idea how to go about protecting it such that it can hold up to dozens of wet demos every year.

Obviously a lot of scale model pieces are plastic and will probably be just fine, but any tips for water proof landscape materials or sealants? Either google sucks now or this isn't a common concern outside of garden train sets.

Clear acrylic floor wax is crazy cheap and will seal everything in a waterproof protective layer. The 'Future' and 'Pledge' branded stuff has been a favourite of scale modelers for years. Brush it on, spray it on, thin it, tint it, whatever. Air dries like acrylic paint. If you want to take the shine off you can later hit it with some matte varnish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUgUIPQwxn4

It goes under several variations of name and label, but they always tend to be in a clear bottle with a squirt cap.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

I've heard it yellows eventually but depending on what you're making that could enhance the look

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
Just coating the outside in PVA would do okay at protecting it from water.

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
First attempt at a gear up aircraft:





We gonna be applying putty. Revell F-104G.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Finished a Cromwell tank. This is a new Airfix kit, and the newest kit I ever built (produced in 2021). Kit engineering definitely took a big step forward. It felt like old Tamiya kits where the parts go together very easily, but with crisp modern detail. Both rubber and link and length tracks were provided, I actually ended up using the rubber ones because they were quite good and the link and length ones didn't provide sag anyway. The kit comes with two decals (Polish and Czechoslovakian) and a wealth of gun and mantlet options, although the instructions only include the 95 mm close support variant.

My only issue with the kit is that it doesn't come with any transparent parts at all. While it's not that hard to pour some transparent resin into the turret spotlight, none of the periscopes or headlights have any glass. I tried to repeat the resin trick with rather poor results.









More photos: https://imgur.com/a/jOG8gEP

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Nice and sharp.

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013
Nobody should be able to make a Cromwell look that good.

A few WIP shots of the M1:





I foolishly assumed that since this kit has a fully modeled interior that it would be designed in such a way as to allow for ease of access to the interior after being fully built. I was wrong. I can easily fix that by snipping a few tiny bits off the underside of the turret rear, but the real trouble is getting the top of the turret on. Some vigorous sanding got the mantlet to be able to fit around the gun block, but something else is blocking the rear/right side from going flush with the bottom of the turret. I'm pretty sure it's one of the ammo racks but since I can't actually see inside to figure out what's going on it's been a trial and error process which is complicated by the whole deal being very fiddly.

On the other hand, once I get it sorted I may just leave it sealed. I don't feel like there's a ton of paint/weathering detail to do inside a modern M1. I did use references to faithfully match the colors of each individual light/knob/switch on the gunner's station, but unless I get a fiber optic camera I can't actually show anyone. :(

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

A wise man once asked me, if I don't realistically model the interior, how will the plastic mans fight the Nazis when my models come alive at night?

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
I've been a car modeler for years but I've had a hankering for something a little different lately. Does anyone know if there are scale model kits for electric guitars and basses? I'm guessing probably not but drat it would be sooo cool because I love instruments as much as cars.

It's probably something that would need to be 3D printed. Which is fine because while I would love to assemble a kit, I'm mainly interested in painting it. I don't have a 3D printer does anyone know of any 3D printing services?

JuffoWup
Mar 28, 2012

Charliegrs posted:

I've been a car modeler for years but I've had a hankering for something a little different lately. Does anyone know if there are scale model kits for electric guitars and basses? I'm guessing probably not but drat it would be sooo cool because I love instruments as much as cars.

It's probably something that would need to be 3D printed. Which is fine because while I would love to assemble a kit, I'm mainly interested in painting it. I don't have a 3D printer does anyone know of any 3D printing services?

Quick google search says they do exist. For example:
https://store.axeheaven.com/products/fender-stratocaster-miniature-guitar-model-kit-build-your-own-officially-licensed

Lego has a stratocaster kit if you are into Legos as well.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Charliegrs posted:

I've been a car modeler for years but I've had a hankering for something a little different lately. Does anyone know if there are scale model kits for electric guitars and basses? I'm guessing probably not but drat it would be sooo cool because I love instruments as much as cars.

It's probably something that would need to be 3D printed. Which is fine because while I would love to assemble a kit, I'm mainly interested in painting it. I don't have a 3D printer does anyone know of any 3D printing services?

Shapeways is the big name in 3D print services. They have a giant library of models or you can send them your own file.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

Blue Footed Booby posted:

A wise man once asked me, if I don't realistically model the interior, how will the plastic mans fight the Nazis when my models come alive at night?

I was extra sure to paint my Cromwell's exhaust pipes even though they would go under a grille and then the Normandy Shroud. You can't even see the grille in the photos.

Edit: speaking of needlessly complex things, my Miniart GAZ-AAA finally has its crew and I can put it away forever.











Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

JuffoWup posted:

Quick google search says they do exist. For example:
https://store.axeheaven.com/products/fender-stratocaster-miniature-guitar-model-kit-build-your-own-officially-licensed

Lego has a stratocaster kit if you are into Legos as well.

Oh man I googled a bit but didn't see that. That's exactly what I'm looking for thank you!

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
You got a putty mouth



Thankfully my girlfriend loves filing so she’s going to do that while she WFH this week.

And yes, those are the wings. The entire wings.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




FrozenVent posted:

And yes, those are the wings. The entire wings.

That's why they call it "The Missile with a Man on it". Also known as "The Widowmaker" and "They Flying Coffin".

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Also the "Lawn Dart"

The Century Series had some pretty funky designs, both the service aircraft, and the one prototypes and design studies not usually counted in the group

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Apr 3, 2022

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

grassy gnoll posted:

What color, speaking in terms of historical accuracy, was a Zero?









Who cares?

Lovely job! did you just cut some tape for those curves?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Charliegrs posted:

I've been a car modeler for years but I've had a hankering for something a little different lately. Does anyone know if there are scale model kits for electric guitars and basses? I'm guessing probably not but drat it would be sooo cool because I love instruments as much as cars.

It's probably something that would need to be 3D printed. Which is fine because while I would love to assemble a kit, I'm mainly interested in painting it. I don't have a 3D printer does anyone know of any 3D printing services?

I’m on mobile so no link but there’s a 3d printing thread where people off services.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Nebakenezzer posted:

Lovely job! did you just cut some tape for those curves?

Thanks. Only around the tail - the rest is just that skinny white Tamiya tape. I think it's vinyl-backed instead of paper, so it's pretty flexible.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Charliegrs posted:

I've been a car modeler for years but I've had a hankering for something a little different lately. Does anyone know if there are scale model kits for electric guitars and basses? I'm guessing probably not but drat it would be sooo cool because I love instruments as much as cars.

It's probably something that would need to be 3D printed. Which is fine because while I would love to assemble a kit, I'm mainly interested in painting it. I don't have a 3D printer does anyone know of any 3D printing services?

I've used Craft Cloud a few times in the past, and been very happy. It's more of an intermediary service, where you upload your model, and then it will automatically search a ton of 3D printing services to find the best price on getting the item printed. It's doubly great because they can also search printing services which don't normally have a forward facing public printing service and usually only deal with other businesses. Once you choose the service and options you want, Craft Cloud handles everything else with the chosen service, and you get your item fairly quickly. Well worth it instead of doing the comparison shopping yourself.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

Just a quick one off my work bench this week, Italeri's Bell H-13 Sioux in 1/72.

It's a pretty straightforward build, and nice not to have to do any sanding/filling/rescribing on a fuselage for once. The lattice framing is a bit overscale but it looks alright to my eyes, although I've seen folk replace the whole lot with PE...

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

tidal wave emulator posted:

Just a quick one off my work bench this week, Italeri's Bell H-13 Sioux in 1/72.

It's a pretty straightforward build, and nice not to have to do any sanding/filling/rescribing on a fuselage for once. The lattice framing is a bit overscale but it looks alright to my eyes, although I've seen folk replace the whole lot with PE...



Looks good enough I started humming "Suicide Is Painless"

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.

Cthulu Carl posted:

Looks good enough I started humming "Suicide Is Painless"

Same, good photography work too.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

FrozenVent posted:

Same, good photography work too.

Thanks! I always have trouble taking photos with a white background as it washes all the colour out so I had to tinker with the levels a bit afterwards.

yaffle
Sep 15, 2002

Flapdoodle

Blue Footed Booby posted:

A wise man once asked me, if I don't realistically model the interior, how will the plastic mans fight the Nazis when my models come alive at night?

You should read "Conrads War" by Andrew Davies, he finds himself transported back to WWII, but forced to pilot the Lancaster he made when he was 10. One of the props won't spin because he used too much glue and the navigator is just a huge lump of plastic.

Spectral Elvis
Jul 23, 2007

Taking a break from oversized things to do smaller things. Bought in a few Bandai 1/1000 Yamato kits. Typical bandai quality, everything falls together, seems are really well thought out, just flawless engineering all round. In a way, it kind of takes the fun out of it a bit.

Flight deck was the stuff of nightmares to paint, however, so there is that.



Bandai 1/1000 DAOE-1 Asuka. Next up 1/1000 Dreadnaught and Ginga.

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Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
Looking super good though. From the pic, your paint work is really crisp and clean.

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