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Like, honestly, if it's that good, I could see canceling my Prusa XL and getting this? But I guess they're going for different things and existing in different weight classes with the 5 toolhead design and prusa's multi part bed + other features
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Apr 15, 2022 18:26
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RabbitWizard posted:I want to reduce fan noise on my Ender3 and think I'm going with buck converters and 12V fans (except if someone can recommend a better way). What I haven't figured out yet is the cooling fan. The speed is variable, is that done in a way that will work with any buck converter? Or does the converter need to be special in any way to do that? Best to get queiter 24v fans for part cooling. As Hadlock mentioned above you cannot use a buck converter on a PWM line. I printed a hero me gen 5 and used dual blowers that can run super slow and still waaaaay outclass the 4010(?) the printer came with
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Apr 15, 2022 18:37
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Deviant posted:Anyone know anything about the Anycubic Kobra Max? $600 for a 17x17 printer? One of the 3d printing YouTubers I follow gave it a pretty good review through a few different materials. All the big cheap printer caveats apply, obviously, but that size for the price is pretty nice if it fits your needs.
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Apr 15, 2022 19:16
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AlexDeGruven posted:One of the 3d printing YouTubers I follow gave it a pretty good review through a few different materials. All the big cheap printer caveats apply, obviously, but that size for the price is pretty nice if it fits your needs. I know all the big cheap caveats of course but why don't you remind me so that I know you know.
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Apr 15, 2022 19:29
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Deviant posted:I know all the big cheap caveats of course but why don't you remind me so that I know you know. Edit: I'm older and crankier than I previously thought AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Apr 15, 2022 |
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Apr 15, 2022 19:59
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AlexDeGruven posted:I mean, you can be an rear end in a top hat, or take the rest of the information and move the gently caress on. that was a "doc my friend has a problem with..."
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Apr 15, 2022 20:09
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Yeah, it was a joke. I was asking without asking, sorry. "TOTALLY ASKING FOR A FRIEND"
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Apr 15, 2022 20:38
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Deviant posted:Yeah, it was a joke. I was asking without asking, sorry. Missed that entirely. Sorry. /old
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Apr 15, 2022 20:48
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anyway what's the issue with larger printers my biggest is a mk3s
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Apr 15, 2022 20:51
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Deviant posted:anyway what's the issue with larger printers my biggest is a mk3s Nothing with big, specifically. But when you go big and cheap, motion systems tend to suffer. So the motors have to work harder and sometimes beyond spec because manufacturers of cheaper printers don't really think of it. So you can sometimes end up with issues with ringing, etc, and premature wear. Also, the larger the bed, the less likely it is to be flat. Auto leveling helps, but can't account for everything. As a manufacturer, anycubic seems to be one of the better cheap brands, at least. Let's Print is the YouTuber I was referring to. He's done quite a few reviews across the spectrum, and is entertaining to listen to.
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Apr 15, 2022 20:59
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Hadlock posted:I think the fans are controlled via PWM can you just modify it in firmware? Might even be dynamic based on gcode criteria and machine state Bondematt posted:Best to get queiter 24v fans for part cooling. As Hadlock mentioned above you cannot use a buck converter on a PWM line.
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Apr 15, 2022 21:13
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Hadlock posted:I think the fans are controlled via PWM can you just modify it in firmware? Might even be dynamic based on gcode criteria and machine state You could PWM the output of the buck converter but you'd need a more complex setup (dual transistor/half-bridge with flyback diode should do it, I think? or use a proper driver IC) because then you're doing PWM across an inductive load. But, if you're doing an Ender3 and want to use 24V fans, you could run two 12V fans in series as an easier solution.
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Apr 15, 2022 22:11
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcTqKeT-j40
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Apr 15, 2022 22:26
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Kobra Max is similar in volume to Prusa XL but for that style of printer you're approaching reasonable limits Prusa XL, I'm sure within 6 months someone will have an X axis extender kit that'll allow you to print Nx14x14 where N < 2 meters. With modular heated build plate "very" easy to expand along the X axis with just some extrusion and belts etc
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Apr 15, 2022 22:39
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Hadlock posted:Kobra Max is similar in volume to Prusa XL but for that style of printer you're approaching reasonable limits I'd be surprised if it was feasible. The effects of increased size of core xy machines is understood, and large format machines such as CNC mills or lasers typically return to a cartesian style setup.  time, a belt that runs over the bed.
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Apr 15, 2022 22:54
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cruft posted:Believe it or not I'm actually hacking display code now. Is that a DWIN touchscreen? There's a single command to do this sort of thing, my guess is you got some line noise and something got misinterpreted. It looks like a prusa mini, so no, not a touchscreen. That's probably what happened though. Bondematt posted:Best to get queiter 24v fans for part cooling. As Hadlock mentioned above you cannot use a buck converter on a PWM line. Kalman posted:You could PWM the output of the buck converter but you'd need a more complex setup (dual transistor/half-bridge with flyback diode should do it, I think? or use a proper driver IC) because then you're doing PWM across an inductive load. Putting a buck converter on a pmw controlled fan on a 3d printer is actually very easy, it's just not the intuitive setup. Connect the buck regulator across the main power of the printer. (Not the leads going to the fan as you might expect). Connect the positive lead of the fan to the positive output of the buck regulator. Connect the negative lead of the fan to the original negative fan pin. Presto, 12v pwm controlled fans.
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Apr 15, 2022 22:56
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That will (generally) work on a PWM controlled fan, where the fan takes a PWM as a separate input. That’s the technique used for CPU fans and similar. That’s not generally what 3D printers (at least Ender 3s) do, though - they’re turning the fan supply voltage on and off to create an averaged DC voltage. Your setup would just feed constant 12V power to the fan.
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Apr 15, 2022 23:30
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Kalman posted:That will (generally) work on a PWM controlled fan, where the fan takes a PWM as a separate input. That’s the technique used for CPU fans and similar. Because n channel MOSFETs are so much better, the negative pin is what's controlled. In the original configuration the positive fan lead is connected directly to 24v. We're just substituting 12v for 24 and leaving the controlled line unaffected, which is why it's important to use the negative of that fan, rather than just a random ground.
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Apr 16, 2022 00:02
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Yeah, I misread your configuration (it’s like there’s a reason circuits get diagrammed instead of described in text when people aren’t just shitposting), that should work fine.
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Apr 16, 2022 03:20
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AlexDeGruven posted:Edit: I'm older and crankier than I previously thought You didn't really say anything wrong it's fine! I've been really liking this Snolabs PC+ Carbon Fiber. Still dialing it in right now but it prints surprisingly easy. https://snolabs.com/carbon-fiber-1-75-pc/ Opinionated fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Apr 16, 2022 |
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Apr 16, 2022 05:42
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Is there an HCH thread where I can ask for advice designing a physical part? Maybe woodworking? I need to design a button for the bagpipe that triggers a proximity sensor, but I am absolute poo poo when it comes to physical design.
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Apr 16, 2022 15:20
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cruft posted:Is there an HCH thread where I can ask for advice designing a physical part? Maybe woodworking? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532
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Apr 16, 2022 16:08
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In hindsight, the CAD thread seems obvious. But in my defense, I'm brand new to all of this and it didn't occur to me. Thanks!
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Apr 16, 2022 16:14
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So I have the Klicky in my Voron 2.4. Is the Auto.Z stuff worth it, or just use it as virtual endstop instead?
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Apr 16, 2022 16:37
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Aurium posted:Because n channel MOSFETs are so much better, the negative pin is what's controlled. Oh, so in theory I can use one 12V module (adequately sized for consumption, of course) for all fans?
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Apr 16, 2022 16:39
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RabbitWizard posted:Oh, so in theory I can use one 12V module (adequately sized for consumption, of course) for all fans? Correct. Any controlled fans use the negative on the respective fan header. Always on fans just use ground. Either on the buck regulator itself or elsewhere. It does have to be a non-isolated converter for this to work, but isolated modules are rare, and more expensive. You're paying for the isolation. Even if you do get one you just connect the printer ground and the module ground.
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Apr 16, 2022 17:47
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Is there anything that doesn't have a dedicated thread on these here forums? Thank you for posting this.
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Apr 16, 2022 20:27
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I've pulling my hair out trying to get the z-axis functioning properly on my prusa mini. How much backlash is acceptable in the trapezoidal nut? If I tighten the screws enough to kill the backlash the z axis won't move, but it doesn't feel like having that loose would lead to accurate results. Prusa sent me a guide to align the whole z assembly but I've been through it a dozen times and it doesn't seem to be helping.
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Apr 16, 2022 20:46
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The z axis is the most tolerant one at dealing with backlash, and can deal with quite a lot in the nut. Generally gravity will keep it seated and consistent if the axis isn't binding.
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Apr 16, 2022 22:12
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Combat Pretzel posted:So I have the Klicky in my Voron 2.4. Is the Auto.Z stuff worth it, or just use it as virtual endstop instead? I like the auto Z, but I also swap nozzles and beds often enough, so it's part if my standard print start gcode. Really you only need to do it once while hot and save the offset for use until you change things. It's a macro and saves you from having to do it manually. We build these machines so we don't have to hand carve things, may as well go full auto.
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Apr 16, 2022 22:33
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I just can't get my z belts consistent. Auto z works fine but sometimes my dialed in settings are too close to the bed. What is the standard deviation you get typically with klicky?
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Apr 16, 2022 22:38
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Roundboy posted:I just can't get my z belts consistent. Auto z works fine but sometimes my dialed in settings are too close to the bed. Have you measured the nozzle offset using something reliable? It sounds as if you're conflating two problems there, but that could just be the way I'm reading it. In any case, doing a probe_accuracy test right now: code:
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Apr 16, 2022 23:21
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The point of the auto z is I don't have to measure anything  My best SD has been . 004 and I normally see . 006+ I also get the occasional . 04 The problem is that if things were consistent I would see nothing change, but it's usually limited to huge swings in the final probe at the very end. I'm kinda at my wits end.
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Apr 16, 2022 23:39
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Roundboy posted:The point of the auto z is I don't have to measure anything How did you tension your Z belts? And how is your print itself? Is there any Z-banding or other weirdnesses?
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Apr 16, 2022 23:43
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I have never had luck tensioning via acoustic methods. I set the tension and did a probe accuracy in each corner until the SD stopped being bad My prints actually come out pretty good. I have tweaking to do but I am basically running the Ellis profile as is right now. My only issue is that I just set a proper z, and I need to adjust it each print. Then I set that as my new z and I need to tweak it again. Until at some point I went too far. Heat soak maybe? Oh, and I occasionally fail qgl or other things with a failed probe. Forcing me to redo my entire print start
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Apr 16, 2022 23:52
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Roundboy posted:I have never had luck tensioning via acoustic methods. I set the tension and did a probe accuracy in each corner until the SD stopped being bad You shouldn't be failing QGLs either. Even in my worst case where I've pushed the gantry 6-10mm out of tram, it only takes two rounds to get the entire thing square. The only time I've failed the QGL due to probe is because of bad connectivity on the probe itself, which it could be? Your other option could be a bad probe switch? Does your Klicky probe sit flat on all three magnets? I have seen that mentioned on the Discord before. If tuning the Z to a frequency isn't working for you, how about https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Kruppes/Tension_Meter ?
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Apr 16, 2022 23:57
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I redid the probe, and redid the toolhead portion with a modded STL that seems to fit better. I did pay attention that the magnets are flush and it does seem to make sense that there is some slop in the probes that squish when I am pressing down before the switch hits Qgl doesn't fail, or once in a blue moon, it's usually that sometimes it takes more then twice, and my failures are usually at auto z. I can gather my latest z numbers but I am set to take everything apart to install LEDs and some extra bits so I can make sure it's all right and tight
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Apr 17, 2022 00:04
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My first test with Klicky, I ended up with a sticky switch (despite being an Omron), leading to 0.02 standard deviation, leading to the QGL doing an endless carousel. Another one fixed the issue and I got to 0.000625 stddev.
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Apr 17, 2022 01:21
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I changed some switches with no luck, but I have a fresh new pack of 3 I can play with. I need to install all these parts I have printed before i tweek further Also I just got the confirmation I am serial V2.3334. I made a thing (officially) Roundboy fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Apr 17, 2022 |
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Apr 17, 2022 12:08
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I have replaced my FEP film and now nothing will print successfully. I didn't have my settings down perfectly before swapping films, but it wasn't a 100% failure rate. The last test print I tired was 5 objects of 1-5 layers each and they all stuck to the film. It is an Elegoo Mars using "Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like" in creamy color. Current slicer settings with anti aliasing at 2:  I have tried leveling with printer paper both with and without the resin tank in place. The only variable I can't verify is FEP tension. The video on the Elegoo youtube page mentions using a sponge of a particular size to get the tension right, I used a cardboard cut out of about that size. I have a magnetic build plate that I can install, but I wanted to do FEP film first then test in case something went wrong to minimize variables. I also need to print a replacement fan shroud for my filament printer, so I'd rather not get frustrated, wait a month, then try again, and fail again. What am I doing wrong?
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Apr 17, 2022 15:57
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