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You can buy plaster mix in what is essentially a cardboard quart milk container. I have one for my house, which is almost all plaster & lath.
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Apr 19, 2022 15:22
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Motronic posted:That's a bit much. You could likely span it, but you'll end up having to do 4, 5, 6 coats to make up for all the shrinkage. That's the answer I expected, was just holding out in case I could do it, lol. I thought the hot mud was supposed to have minimal shrinkage though? I've got enough miscellaneous drywall that I should be able to patch it... although gently caress I think all of my extra drywall is like 1/2" 
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Apr 19, 2022 15:25
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Cut a piece down to make a blowout patch. Cut the perimeter 1” larger than the hole Score only the back-side paper, the size of the hole Fold back, & carefully remove the gypsum to leave a 1/2” paper border Put down some compound around & in the edges of the hole Push in the patch, using a knife to smooth the paper border into the surrounding surface
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Apr 19, 2022 15:29
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PainterofCrap posted:You can buy plaster mix in what is essentially a cardboard quart milk container. I actually bought a tub of plaster, which was sold in the mud aisle at Menards (not the spackle/repair aisle), but it doesn't have any useful instructions on it for doing a patch, and I can't find anyone online talking about using it to patch plaster walls.
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Apr 19, 2022 15:33
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I keep reading the thread title as: Home Zone: Unfortunately the title took four months to get here, and is now discontinu which makes me laugh
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Apr 19, 2022 15:33
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PainterofCrap posted:Cut a piece down to make a blowout patch. I've heard of this method but never tried it. Sounds perfect for the patch in question.
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Apr 19, 2022 15:38
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PainterofCrap posted:Cut a piece down to make a blowout patch. Oh poo poo yeah I forgot about this technique, I saw it in some random Youtube video (Home RenoVision DIY I think called it a California patch or something?) Thanks for the reminder! Is matching thicknesses of drywall important like.. at all when it comes to a smaller patch like this?
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Apr 19, 2022 15:41
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FISHMANPET posted:I actually bought a tub of plaster, which was sold in the mud aisle at Menards (not the spackle/repair aisle), but it doesn't have any useful instructions on it for doing a patch, and I can't find anyone online talking about using it to patch plaster walls. If you mean joint compound, I used plenty of that stuff on my cement board and plaster skim coated walls while doing repairs. It is easy to use, I guess it takes a little longer to set than hot mud but worked perfectly fine for me when patching holes in the walls and ceilings. I will likely use hot mud with my next big project though.
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Apr 19, 2022 17:16
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Speaking of drywall repair, one of my vendors from work has this new product, a tapered hole saw and tapered drywall plugs you can mud in place. Neat idea but I haven't needed to do any patching to try one yet
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Apr 19, 2022 17:31
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I'm looking at replacing my front entry door, wondering if there's any advice on choosing between steel vs fiberglass? I am in Central VA, non coastal. I'm not concerned at all about like, extra security or anything, just longevity, maintenance and efficiency. That kinda thing.
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Apr 19, 2022 17:35
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FISHMANPET posted:I actually bought a tub of plaster, which was sold in the mud aisle at Menards (not the spackle/repair aisle), but it doesn't have any useful instructions on it for doing a patch, and I can't find anyone online talking about using it to patch plaster walls. I was talking about Plaster of Paris in powder form, but the application to your wall should be the same. For the powder: Pour a little into a butter tub or larger disposable container; mix water in only until you have the consistency of cookie dough. Then knife it across your repair. If you're going over existing lath, give the wood lath a light spray or wipedown to dampen it a little. Johnny Truant posted:Oh poo poo yeah I forgot about this technique, I saw it in some random Youtube video (Home RenoVision DIY I think called it a California patch or something?) No, but I wouldn't use 1/4" or 3/8" if you can avoid it. 1/2" is fine since it's the surface that you're matching.
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Apr 19, 2022 18:18
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FISHMANPET posted:I've also got a few spots of less than a square inch around a 4 gang switch box where it looks like decades ago when it was cut in, more plaster was broken away than can be covered by the switch plate, could I just throw some hot mud in there to fill those in? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ygqv8_dR6q4
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Apr 19, 2022 18:33
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Analog_Kid posted:Sup dark-grout-efflorescence buddy! I used 50/50 this time and definitely got some fizzing action which is good. I didn't cover all the tile as well, but obviously the parts next to the grout lines got the mix on it (it's porcelain glazed so there shouldn't be an issue there). However there are some very faint streaks on some of the tiles, only noticeable when the light hits it. Did you ever clean the tiles themselves? maybe this is grout haze on the tile, or maybe nothing, I'm not sure how to tell. also the tiles with those streaks, the streaks are in pretty much the same position, which leads me to believe it might be something from the manufacturing process - maybe all the ones in that box had it. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Apr 19, 2022 |
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Apr 19, 2022 20:25
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hello everyone, my springtime project is installing drainage for my extremely hosed up waterlogged back yard. I'll be installing a french drain, as well as downspout collectors. I've only got one exit to daylight, so my plan is to connect everything to a single solid pipe for about a 60' run to the front curb where it can flow to the storm drains. I wanted to do discharge pipe and downspouts in PVC instead of solid corrugated pipe, but I'm in Chicago and worried about installing underground PVC that will be mostly above the frost line. Would corrugated be better because it's more flexible and more resistant to ground movement?
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Apr 20, 2022 14:49
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PVC for drainage purposes is fine above the frost line.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:52
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Excellent, thank you Motronic
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Apr 20, 2022 15:02
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tile update, the grout efflorescence has been completely removed using the warm water white vinegar mix! unfortunately a few of the tiles have a super subtle whitish streak on them, which I just noticed now (they are going the short length of some of the tiles, for example there is one basically right below where the left door frame is on the middle row of tiles). I'm having my tile place reach out to the manufacturer to see if I can do anything about them, but if not, no big deal as some will be covered up by my doormat anyway.
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Apr 20, 2022 15:15
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Ooh I'll chime in with a drainage question! My backyard keeps providing me with mysteries, but last weekend as my partner and I were trimming down a bunch of poo poo we probably should've dealt with before winter, we found a buried drainage opening. The mystery is... we have no idea where the gently caress it terminates. I don't have a photo but can provide one, but it had a cone-shaped green protector over the top for debris, was maybe 6-8" deep and maybe 6" wide. I can see a black ridged tube inside it that heads towards the small space in between my neighbour's driveway and mine... but no termination of the tubing! Is this.. normal? Should I be worried? Should I do more investigating to find where it exits the ground? It's not in a spot that is even remotely the lowest point of my backyard 
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Apr 20, 2022 16:05
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Is there a lawn/yard maintenance thread? Found the gardening thread but wasn't sure if that was really the appropriate place for my question. Anyway, there is a vine that has basically taken over my yard. I think it's some kind of pipevine, though it has never actually flowered. I've done my best the last two years to exterminate it as much as possible (mostly by ripping it out), but the neighbors on all sides of me seem to not care that it is actively strangling their trees to death, so I'm probably going to be battling it forever. This year I want to be a bit more tactical. One side of my yard has a double fence line. Chain link with about a 12" gap and then a wooden fence. The vine loves to grow in this space and it is a bitch to remove it. I don't want anything to grow in this space at all, ever. I've considered removing the chain link fence just so I can dig out this area to make life easier, but that is going to be a huge project. I'd instead like to dump some kind of chemical here that will kill things. What is going to be the least environmentally terrible thing to use for that? As of right now, the vine hasn't sprouted up in the space yet, so I am looking for some kind of pre-emergent. An added challenge is there is a lot of plant debris within this 12" space that I can't really remove, so anything I dump on top of this isn't really hitting the ground. My neighbor with the wooden fence has a small child and a dog so ideally whatever I put here won't wash into their yard and give them cancer, or something. Tbqh for a while I was considering literally salting the earth, but I guess that's actually worse than glyphosate.
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Apr 20, 2022 16:19
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Johnny Truant posted:Ooh I'll chime in with a drainage question! My backyard keeps providing me with mysteries, but last weekend as my partner and I were trimming down a bunch of poo poo we probably should've dealt with before winter, we found a buried drainage opening. Put a hose in it, get a lawn chair, & crack a couple beers
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Apr 20, 2022 17:17
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Johnny Truant posted:Ooh I'll chime in with a drainage question! My backyard keeps providing me with mysteries, but last weekend as my partner and I were trimming down a bunch of poo poo we probably should've dealt with before winter, we found a buried drainage opening. It might terminate in a buried dry well or similar. The PO attempted to fix the same problem I'm dealing with by incorrectly installing and burying a bunch of dry wells (two of which I've managed to excavate, packed with dirt and totally useless). It might also feed into the storm drain (or potentially even sewer line if that's acceptable in your area?), I know in certain cases you can connect to those depending on the city's approval and if someone with the appropriate license/authority makes the actual connection. I'd ask your neighbor first, but if you really want to know I think home depot rents out drain cameras for ~$200/day
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Apr 20, 2022 17:22
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Ya’ll wanna see something horrifying?  Getting a hybrid electric to replace it on Tuesday. Hold together another week there, old girl.
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Apr 20, 2022 22:16
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MrYenko posted:Ya’ll wanna see something horrifying? I would say give her a Viking funeral, but. At least pour out a frozen daiquiri for her.
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Apr 20, 2022 22:42
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I thought that said 06 for a second and thought "that's not that bad" Nope.
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Apr 20, 2022 23:17
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Pest control, roofing….. and water heaters? Never seen a more eclectic mix of specialties in my life
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Apr 21, 2022 00:14
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We're going to be remodeling one of our bathrooms soon and I need to get around to figuring out what tub we're going to install. It's a standard 60" alcove layout. Not looking for anything fancy, just don't want junk. Any reason not to go with LowesDepot options? Anything in particular to look out for?
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Apr 21, 2022 22:58
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Honest assessment of hardwood flooring vs LVP flooring? I bought a 1,024sqft house that has what I think is laminate or vinyl flooring everywhere except the bedrooms, which have hideous carpeting. I was going to get new carpets in the bedrooms, but everyone in my life is telling me to ditch carpets. I'm on board since I do have pets. I was going to go with hardwood everywhere but a friend is trying to talk me into LVP. If cost isn't an issue, and this is a house I want to stay in for decades to come, what would you advise?
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Apr 21, 2022 23:13
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LVP is designed to be pet resistant.
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Apr 21, 2022 23:27
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Lovelyn posted:Honest assessment of hardwood flooring vs LVP flooring? Unless your pets are Newfoundlands or Irish Wolfhounds or something, I'd just go with the hardwood. A well-maintained hardwood floor will last you a hundred years or more and can always be refinished if it gets too scuffed up. Besides, a well-worn hardwood floor can pass as "having character" or "rustic" and in my opinion, generally takes damage more gracefully than vinyl products. I've also never agreed with the notion that hardwood is not a good option if you happen to have a dog or whatever - dogs and kids have been beating on wood floors since forever but now that LVT is a thing, it's touted as the best/only way you can have a nice wood-looking floor if you have a dog. Hardwood is fine for dogs if you don't insist on the floor remaining perfectly unmarred for all time. Which you shouldn't because it's a floor. Anecdotal example: I know of a hard maple floor that was abused for a hundred years by countless people, dogs, dragged furniture, water, etc. and when it was recently sanded and refinished, it looked brand new. Also hardwood is not a petroleum product so it has that going for it. As for carpets, I don't think there's anything wrong with having carpet in the bedrooms . Bedrooms are low-traffic and private so the carpeting won't get trampled to death or get gross and smelly nearly as fast, and quality carpeting is nice under bare feet. Just get them steam cleaned periodically. You could always opt for wool carpeting, which is more expensive but way more durable (and also does not need to off-gas because it is not a petroleum product), and perhaps worth considering since you intend to be in the house for a long time.
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Apr 22, 2022 01:47
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Also the store will discontinue the Rustic Honey Hickory Farmhouse Classico a week before you accidentally damage a plank and the nearest replacement pattern still stands out like a sore thumb.
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Apr 22, 2022 01:55
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The other thing with hardwood, they can be sanded and refinished several times. I would argue wood is more fixable than vinyl. Vinyl isn't bad, it's just another option. I think if I were looking for alternates to wood, and the budget allowed, I might look at wood look tile. I'll say this, in most of the homes we looked at when buying, all the houses that screamed "HGTV inspired quick and dirty flip" all had lvp of varying quality. It was usually some shade of gray. I assume it's a great choice because it looks well enough, especially for home buyers who are only in the home for a few minutes, it's easy to put down, and it's affordable. One house had a 3" high seam bubble that they hid under a comical shag rug, beneath an ottoman. I left the ottoman slightly out of place exposing it. There were several places that you could tell the subfloor wasn't flat/even because the flooring would flex when you walked. That's nothing against lvp, more against poo poo installers.
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Apr 22, 2022 02:43
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Go for hardwood, then get a couple of nice wool rugs for the bedrooms. That's what we've done at my house and it's the best of both worlds.
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Apr 22, 2022 03:34
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Thanks team. Can anyone point me to a site that can teach me what I need to know about hardwood floors? How to pick which material, how to maintain, etc? I did an initial google search but I have no way of gauging if the advice is sound
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Apr 22, 2022 03:44
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For kitchen and bathroom spaces where you will get more water and muck lvt is great. For bedrooms hardwood might have a nicer feel.
CancerCakes fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Apr 22, 2022 |
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Apr 22, 2022 09:19
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The thicknesses are also quite different. Hardwood is typically 3/4" thick and requires pneumatic nailing. LVP is 2mm to 8mm (0.080" to 0.320") and, for most types, just snaps together. For fairly cheap you can get a new floor, do it yourself, and not have to cut doors or re-do trim. I'm totally on board with hardwood, but there are definite benefits to LVP. It probably means there are tons of poorly installed LVP floors out there that look new but will fail just like my poorly installed laminate flooring has failed in many spots. (Thanks PO!) My local flooring guy says the vinyl is more dimensionally stable and sees less seasonal movement than wood, I'm not sure I agree but I don't have any data to back it up. I've seen some really nice hardwoods installed in very nice homes, and I doubt they'd do it if the floors would be poo poo. My previous house had a hardwood floor in the family room and barring water damage in one spot from 30 years prior, it was awesome.
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Apr 22, 2022 12:45
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Have LVP in my dining room and kitchen. It's been great, and in the dining room replaced lovely carpet, so really made the room look much better. It's taken lots of abuse (three kids and two dogs) and looks new years later. Right now, our master bedroom doesn't have any flooring, having pulled up poo poo carpeting and being paralyzed on what goes in next, and I'm tempted to put in real hardwood because the subfloor is made out of 70s MDF which is not terribly stiff. What's stopped me is largely having to deal with the transition to carpet in the hallway outside of it.
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Apr 22, 2022 13:42
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Lovelyn posted:Thanks team. Can anyone point me to a site that can teach me what I need to know about hardwood floors? How to pick which material, how to maintain, etc? I did an initial google search but I have no way of gauging if the advice is sound I don't have a website to tell you, but can offer some anecdotal advice, more from a woodworker perspective than anything. In general any hardwood species is going to hold up well as a floor, some more than others, you can look up janka hardness scales for various woods. In general exotic woods will be the hardest, then things like oak, maple, ash, hickory with fruitwoods closer to the bottom like cherry or walnut. If you can afford it, keeping the wood a natural colour will look nicer over the long run, because scratches and dings will be the same colour within the wood as on top. If you get an oak hardwood that is stained to be a dark brown walnut colour then when it inevitably gets scratched the scratch will be highlighted because the natural light brown oak colour will show up through the scratch on the dark brown top coat. However, that can get expensive quickly depending on what colour you are thinking. I would also recommend getting pre-finished hardwood, a factory finish is going to be way more scratch resistant and resilient than anything that can be applied in your house. For maintenance I don't do anything special, just sweep and vacuum as usual. When I mop, I make sure to really wring out the mop as I don't want to get water standing in the seams and swelling it, but that's pretty much it. On LVP, I do have it in my basement and like it down there.
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Apr 22, 2022 14:16
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I installed about 700 SQ ft. of prefinished engineered hardwood, 3/8" plywood base with 1/4" of "Brazilian walnut" (Ipe) top throughout most of our upstairs. Looks good, and the finish has held up pretty well over six years now. I have laminate in parts of my main floor. Mid grade stuff, Shaw iirc. It's fine, but it's starting to chip in a few boards after 5.5 years. We have COREtec pro plus enhanced in our basement, about 9 months old. It's actually our second LVP floor in two years thanks to a second flood event. It's fantastic for a basement. Not sure I'd want it on our main level. Whenever we get around to fully redoing our main level flooring, we plan on prefinished 3/4 hardwood of some sort. e: except the powder room, that'll be tile.
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Apr 22, 2022 15:52
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 so! I bought a house, which was a dumb idea, and during the inspection we saw some exposed wood around this window. Given the lovely-but-apparently water-tight approach to vinyl siding and trim evidenced by the rest of the house I made a note to come back and do it right and moved on. Then I went up with a ladder to take a closer look, and as best as I can tell from a first deep look the stucco underneath the vinyl siding has crumbled and broken and there's some water damage I can see. My immediate plan is to get a vinyl tool, take off the vinyl I can around the window to get a better look, and then see what else is going on. Thankfully the window itself appears to be pretty firm so I'm hoping against hope that it's just the exterior that's hosed.
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Apr 22, 2022 15:53
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I'm getting my windows and siding done-- whenever the contractor says the windows are actually delivered. The siding will be a Hardie plank. My wife and I are currently trying to pick out paint colors for the house and trim-- and I need to probably order the Romabio limewash, too. The contractor is using Sherwin Williams. Is there anything I should consider about the paint selection? Is there a certain product line of their exterior paint that I should demand, or pay a premium for?
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Apr 22, 2022 18:13
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