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Anybody have any ideas about where I can learn about commercial-scale resin printing post-processing techniques? Workflows, equipment, anything. I’m talking about a half-dozen commercial printers producing a couple hundred parts per day, where quality control re: fully-cleaned and cured prints is paramount. Their workflow and equipment is essentially the same as mine for a single hobbyist printer so it barely scales with larger part production at all and a huge amount of time is spent, like, brush-cleaning parts in a wash tank, or drying parts one by one with compressed air, etc. Surely there are developments along these lines that I don’t know about?
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Apr 28, 2022 01:58
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My printer is for the most part reliable and pretty well tuned, but on large first layers I get a blob on the nozzle that will randomly deposit itself on the print and cause issues. I've triple checked that nothing is leaking out of the threads, as I've had that problem in the past with a different hot end. A bit of searching suggests this may be over extrusion on the first layer, does that sound right?
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Apr 28, 2022 03:00
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TerminalSaint posted:My printer is for the most part reliable and pretty well tuned, but on large first layers I get a blob on the nozzle that will randomly deposit itself on the print and cause issues. I've triple checked that nothing is leaking out of the threads, as I've had that problem in the past with a different hot end. A bit of searching suggests this may be over extrusion on the first layer, does that sound right? seems likely. But if you're asking, it's best to just post a photo of one of your first layers. More is spoken for in photos than asking questions. So.. lets skip to the solution. Print a big first layer. And print a benchy. Post photos.
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Apr 28, 2022 04:52
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You need to print with a skirt or a purge line. Let the initial blob live in a not useful part of the print bed so the first real print layers are good
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Apr 28, 2022 15:07
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Roundboy posted:You need to print with a skirt or a purge line. Is that what that one random line hanging around the outside boundaries of a lot of prints I see is? What exactly is it purging?
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Apr 28, 2022 15:47
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Yes, that's what that line is. When the extruder sits around warmed up without extruding, two things happen: the filament near the nozzle drips out the bottom, and what stays inside the heater block begins to degrade from the heat. The purge line purges out the degraded filament, and fills the void left by the stuff that dripped out so that there is plastic immediately available for extrusion when it's needed. All modern printers should have a safety timer that cuts off the heat after like 15 minutes without extrusion, but if yours doesn't and you leave the extruder at temperature for several hours, you'll find that PLA turns into a thin brown sugary smelling liquid. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Apr 28, 2022 |
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Apr 28, 2022 15:55
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Haven't had a chance to do prints for photos yet, but my nozzle starts clean, then builds up a blob over time as it lays down the layer.
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Apr 28, 2022 16:51
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Love to get a new Resin printer and have to deal with the classic "Did I level it wrong, or is it this new bottle of resin that sucks, or are my exposure settings off?" Base sticking to the bed just fine, fails after like five layers with the demo Rook My models generate support but the model never sticks Wooooo Thing that always chaps my rear end about resin v FDM is that you have to wait a few hours to actually see if it's failing
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Apr 28, 2022 16:59
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Sockser posted:Love to get a new Resin printer and have to deal with the classic "Did I level it wrong, or is it this new bottle of resin that sucks, or are my exposure settings off?" You shouldn't have to wait a few hours, every resin machine I've ever used will raise the platform high enough out of the vat to see if anything is stuck to the plate if you just pause the print. If you're getting good base stickage but the models won't print or fall off the supports, then your regular layer time is too low. Did you run any exposure tests at all? That's like Step Zero with any new printer, or new resin, and especially with a combination of the two.
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Apr 28, 2022 17:48
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Acid Reflux posted:You shouldn't have to wait a few hours, every resin machine I've ever used will raise the platform high enough out of the vat to see if anything is stuck to the plate if you just pause the print. I avoid doing this with regular prints because I always end up with a nasty layer line Which is particularly bad with models oriented at 45 degrees But I'm running test prints so why am I not doing this Also I've never actually done an exposure test across three resin printers Guess it time.
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Apr 28, 2022 17:59
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TerminalSaint posted:Haven't had a chance to do prints for photos yet, but my nozzle starts clean, then builds up a blob over time as it lays down the layer. I was having this when my Z wasn't low enough and some of the filament would extrude onto the nozzle. Maybe it's possible you need to lower the nozzle down a bit?
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Apr 28, 2022 18:50
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How far back was the last "what first printer should I buy" discussion? I am in the market. My brother just got an Ender 3 and I must...defeat him? I dunno...I just don't want to derail you guys with something I'm you probably explain ever couple weeks.
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Apr 28, 2022 23:23
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Marsupial Ape posted:How far back was the last "what first printer should I buy" discussion? I am in the market. My brother just got an Ender 3 and I must...defeat him? I dunno...I just don't want to derail you guys with something I'm you probably explain ever couple weeks. To defeat him, gently caress his wife. Just get another Ender 3. They're pretty good entry-level printers. Maybe find one of the knockoff ones like a Sovol.
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Apr 28, 2022 23:31
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Yeah, from what I am reading, the Ender 3, Pro, and 3 v2 may have different engineering and upgrades, but they all print and the same quality, so I may just get a plain or Ender 3 and after the market the poo poo out of it as I go along. They first thing I should get is an auto leveling bed and better extruders, right?
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Apr 28, 2022 23:36
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Marsupial Ape posted:Yeah, from what I am reading, the Ender 3, Pro, and 3 v2 may have different engineering and upgrades, but they all print and the same quality, so I may just get a plain or Ender 3 and after the market the poo poo out of it as I go along. They first thing I should get is an auto leveling bed and better extruders, right? Yes, plus the bed springs, or just find one of the Ender3 clones that already has all that included.
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Apr 28, 2022 23:45
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Marsupial Ape posted:How far back was the last "what first printer should I buy" discussion? I am in the market. My brother just got an Ender 3 and I must...defeat him? I dunno...I just don't want to derail you guys with something I'm you probably explain ever couple weeks. You can snag an Ender5 Pro on Amazon for $360 right now
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Apr 28, 2022 23:45
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If you go for an Ender 3 get the v2. The 3 and 3 Pro are fine but have noisy stepper drivers last I checked. You can get a drop in mainboard with silent steppers but that's upgrading and adding cost when the v2 comes with it. Generally if you don't have any special materials or large build volume in mind then the Ender 3 v2 or a Prusa should really be the main contenders.
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Apr 28, 2022 23:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody have any ideas about where I can learn about commercial-scale resin printing post-processing techniques? Workflows, equipment, anything. I’m talking about a half-dozen commercial printers producing a couple hundred parts per day, where quality control re: fully-cleaned and cured prints is paramount. Their workflow and equipment is essentially the same as mine for a single hobbyist printer so it barely scales with larger part production at all and a huge amount of time is spent, like, brush-cleaning parts in a wash tank, or drying parts one by one with compressed air, etc. Surely there are developments along these lines that I don’t know about? It’s still a very manual process. There are some companies that specialize in post processing but it’s mostly appliances for manually washing things. Postprocess and Oryx are the only ones I can recall this minute - maybe they have some webinars or other materials?
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Apr 28, 2022 23:59
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My dad got a Ender 3v2 a couple months ago and has liked that, minus a couple issues with it (mostly about the bed and adhesion). I just got a 3 Pro this week but also got a BTT mainboard and BLTouch for less than the cost of a v2. On the downside, doing all the upgrades and mucking with firmware has been A Process and I haven’t even started calibration prints yet, so if you want something more out of the box ready I’d say it’s hard to go wrong with the Ender 3v2. My 70-year-old dad learned his way around it pretty quickly.
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Apr 29, 2022 00:09
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Rexxed posted:If you go for an Ender 3 get the v2. The 3 and 3 Pro are fine but have noisy stepper drivers last I checked. You can get a drop in mainboard with silent steppers but that's upgrading and adding cost when the v2 comes with it. Generally if you don't have any special materials or large build volume in mind then the Ender 3 v2 or a Prusa should really be the main contenders. So...get like the v2 and the self leveling module? The Prusa is just above my price threshold for buying tech poo poo I don't need.
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Apr 29, 2022 00:09
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Marsupial Ape posted:How far back was the last "what first printer should I buy" discussion? I am in the market. My brother just got an Ender 3 and I must...defeat him? I dunno...I just don't want to derail you guys with something I'm you probably explain ever couple weeks. I picked up a Sovol SV01 the other week and it’s been absolutely fantastic. Is mostly built out of creality parts so I’ve already stuck a Creality silent board in it, BLTouch, some other misc things. Printing with PLA/PETG has been ez pz. I will say the PSU fan is stupid loud and is the next bit I wanna replace. No idea if the Enders are any quieter but I assume they print similarly since they’re basically the same printer
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Apr 29, 2022 00:33
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Marsupial Ape posted:So...get like the v2 and the self leveling module? The Prusa is just above my price threshold for buying tech poo poo I don't need. Yes. And yellow replacement springs. I thought it was not important, but the original v2 springs are absolute trash compared. It's a relatively cheap upgrade. e: I added the second Z screw kit, spring-loaded nuts on both screws, and PEI plate on top, but that's just my ocd. gbut fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Apr 29, 2022 |
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Apr 29, 2022 00:35
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NewFatMike posted:It’s still a very manual process. There are some companies that specialize in post processing but it’s mostly appliances for manually washing things. I’ve been looking at Postprocess’ stuff but it’s mostly just really slick implementations of the multi-step manual labour batch post-processing we all know and tolerate. I dunno what I was expecting, but a continual multi-bath+drying setup seems like low-hanging fruit, like a conveyor belt bread toaster except filled with solvent baths instead of burnt bagels. or something like that. semi-related, resin scavenging using a centrifuge sounds tempting for working with really expensive resins, which we do. $500/litre resin means like $10 in material per part goes into the alcohol bath as waste. I’ve found mentions of fully-automated DLP manufactories for the dental industry using centrifuges for resin recovery, but haven’t heard of it for less specialized/fully-manual part printing.
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Apr 29, 2022 00:42
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So, my ender 3 s1 pro arrived and I finally had a chance to put it through some test prints last night. I'm pretty pleased by the results, considering I barely know what I'm doing. The obligatory XYZ cube and benchy show some light stringing and small dimensional inaccuracies (for example, Z being consistently like half a millimeter off in both prints), so I think my next stop is to work through the entire "Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration" guide I found online, since it appears to be a pretty decent resource that actually explains what I'm doing instead of just telling me to run some arbitrary gcode and hope for the best. Well, assuming I figure out why the serial port on the thing isn't being recognized in order to send it some gcode 
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Apr 29, 2022 00:43
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inkmoth posted:Well, assuming I figure out why the serial port on the thing isn't being recognized in order to send it some gcode Also, Teaching Tech looks good on the surface but he's really kind of a tool (and not the helpful kind). Look up CHEP and watch his stuff instead, he's a truly knowledgeable guy whose content is much, much better. Pretty much any video about any Ender 3 variant will still be applicable for general setup.
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Apr 29, 2022 00:55
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Yeah, I definitely have that chipset - creality seems to have shipped me just the inf file without the installer, but I managed to track down the full package from the chip manufacturer's website and installed that. The problem I'm running into is that windows isn't even seeing anything being attached (no beep, nothing in device manager), so it's probably time to check with a different usb-c cable, ha.Acid Reflux posted:Also, Teaching Tech looks good on the surface but he's really kind of a tool (and not the helpful kind). Look up CHEP and watch his stuff instead, he's a truly knowledgeable guy whose content is much, much better. Pretty much any video about any Ender 3 variant will still be applicable for general setup. I think I've seen some CHEP videos on YouTube - but I was specifically referring to the "teachingtechyt.github.io" calibration pages rather than any kind of video content since I honestly find it easier to grab the specifics in written form. Is he the "annoying YouTuber" kind of tool or "yeah his site is full of incorrect information" kind of tool...
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Apr 29, 2022 01:13
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gbut posted:Yes. And yellow replacement springs. I thought it was not important, but the original v2 springs are absolute trash compared. It's a relatively cheap upgrade. Good to know, thanks. I'm now looking at smaller sized printers because I know that I'll never print anything bigger than a mini-fig or some bips and boops for my DIY microphone projects. Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 29, 2022 |
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Apr 29, 2022 01:14
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inkmoth posted:Yeah, I definitely have that chipset - creality seems to have shipped me just the inf file without the installer, but I managed to track down the full package from the chip manufacturer's website and installed that. The problem I'm running into is that windows isn't even seeing anything being attached (no beep, nothing in device manager), so it's probably time to check with a different usb-c cable, ha. I honestly didn't know he had any non-YT content anywhere, not familiar with the Github stuff at all, so I can't comment specifically on it. I do know that his videos often contain a lot of semi-correct stuff, the same kind of information that you see in a lot of Facebook user groups and the like... things that maybe started off as actual good advice, but have been through a game of telephone over the years and are now just as much bullshit as fact. I also just can't stand to watch his stupid robotic face, so that may cloud my judgement a bit too, but I really do think he's grossly overrated as far as tech advice goes.
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Apr 29, 2022 01:21
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Roundboy posted:All of it.  Printing articulated/flexi animals is my life now. What a floppy guy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495390 https://i.imgur.com/OL9CGRW.mp4
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Apr 29, 2022 01:58
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RabbitWizard posted:
The 'improved flexi rex' guy open sourced his hinge design, and its really really obvious when you print in place an articulated joint and its just garbage. If i ever need to design something similar i am 100% using his rations and measurements. There is another guy that has many paid designs (like $1-2) but a lot are free, and his stuff is just really cool with articulated hands / feet with a bone sticking out, that i want to make my multimaterial prints. But i need to snag some pretty filament again and make the dragon that seems to be the new 'hot' print. I still will use the slug as my go to for using up the last of the spools i have
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Apr 29, 2022 02:53
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Sockser posted:Also I've never actually done an exposure test across three resin printers I am using Voxelab resin. It says 3s for mono screens. I am using a Saturn, which is generally regarded as 2.5-3.5s Yet somehow I am having to run at 5.5s+ to get a decent exposure test working What gives  That's 5s on the left, 5.5 on the right The sub-5s tests were all not worth photographing Sockser fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Apr 29, 2022 |
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Apr 29, 2022 07:17
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Roundboy posted:The 'improved flexi rex' guy open sourced his hinge design, and its really really obvious when you print in place an articulated joint and its just garbage. If i ever need to design something similar i am 100% using his rations and measurements. That's Flexi Factory and he has some cool stuff https://cults3d.com/en/users/FlexiFactory/creations
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Apr 29, 2022 11:55
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Marsupial Ape posted:So...get like the v2 and the self leveling module? The Prusa is just above my price threshold for buying tech poo poo I don't need. Do you want to defeat your brother or not? Victory costs money.
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Apr 29, 2022 12:03
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I over-tightened the nozzle on my Ender 3 and stripped the threads in the heater block. Do the more expensive copper-plated blocks give any advantage with the standard hot end, or should I just grab another $3 aluminum block from microcenter?
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Apr 29, 2022 12:45
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Just grab another $3 block from microcenter 
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Apr 29, 2022 13:49
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Toebone posted:I over-tightened the nozzle on my Ender 3 and stripped the threads in the heater block. Do the more expensive copper-plated blocks give any advantage with the standard hot end, or should I just grab another $3 aluminum block from microcenter? In my experience you shouldn't try to get the nozzle tight to the block, only tight to the bowden tube inside. Thread it in by hand all the way, then back it out a turn or two. Adjust the bowden tube in your hot end so it is touching the nozzle, get it up to operating temp, then turn the nozzle a quarter or half turn in.
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Apr 29, 2022 14:20
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Marsupial Ape posted:So...get like the v2 and the self leveling module? The Prusa is just above my price threshold for buying tech poo poo I don't need. Artillery makes a good printer. The Genius is $100 more than the Ender 3 v2 and comes with basically all the upgrades people say to buy for the Ender 3. All the issues I've had with my Artillery printer have been user error.
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Apr 29, 2022 14:33
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drat. Printed the next set of end parts, both sides as they are small and fit on my plate. came down to find the tops missing on all of them. .. because i ran out of filament. TOTALLY thought i had more on the spool then i did. And everyplace seems to be out of that hatchbox green color. unless i pop out to microcenter and grab a similar or 2-3 spools of something else. some parts needed reprinting anyway since the 'hook' that keeps them together prints as a small part on the plate, and eventually bridges with the rest. I see some twist in the parts.
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Apr 29, 2022 15:12
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I have an issue with my 3d printer. It is an Ender 3. It has a bigtreetech skr mini e3 and bl touch. I was in the process of replacing the hotend after the last one become encased in plastic. Was doing test prints to narrow in on the Z-offset. Now it is displaying the error "TMC Connection Error" and the X motor doesn't work. I've been taking this slow: it did work fine yesterday and several days before that, but today it produces that error. What do I need to fix this? No wire seems lose. I still have my stock Ender 3 board that I can go back to. Or is this full on "new printer" territory? Also why did this happen now? This didn't happen right after I messed with the wires or changed parts. e: Ender 5s lookin pretty affordable these days. edit 2: Hm, I probably just have to replace the board. Is a "bigtreetech skr mini e3" still the one to grab for an ender 3 or have times changed? Serenade fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Apr 29, 2022 |
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Apr 29, 2022 17:00
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I give you radioactive Flexi Rexi! https://imgur.com/gallery/5crcRBg So, he's the original model scaled up 350%, so not quite as big as the one RoundBoy is printing, but still quite large.
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Apr 29, 2022 17:22
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