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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sakara123 posted:

there just didn't seem to be enough benefit over picking up a gas Z-Turn at typically half the price

I don't know the quality of the cub cadet battery zero turn, but if you've spent half of "$4-5k" you got a very budget homeowner zero turn. Not too many years ago the typical tractor supply type of those in that price point didn't even have a floating deck and were still running separate pumps and hydros as well as garbage tier engines. I would encourage someone to spend that same money on a 2500 hour ex-landscaper used zero turn before buying something like that.

E: just looked up that $5500 battery zero turn and right out of the gate: stamped deck. Looks like junk.

I really hope someone starts making decent prosumer or commercial quality battery zero turns so they can get enough volume to make the pricing reasonable.

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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Unless you use the fiddly plastic thing that goes over the blade and is always in the way and hook a vac to it, all tablesaws have pretty mediocre dust collection IME.

Unless your tablesaw is pretty pricey, your blade guide probably doesn't have a vacuum port. There are some dust collection shrouds that sit off the side of the tablesaw and swing over top. They're not great, but I'm working on something for this. Curious what people think when I'm done.

Sakara123
Dec 10, 2019

The Big Chungus

Motronic posted:

I don't know the quality of the cub cadet battery zero turn, but if you've spent half of "$4-5k" you got a very budget homeowner zero turn. Not too many years ago the typical tractor supply type of those in that price point didn't even have a floating deck and were still running separate pumps and hydros as well as garbage tier engines. I would encourage someone to spend that same money on a 2500 hour ex-landscaper used zero turn before buying something like that.

E: just looked up that $5500 battery zero turn and right out of the gate: stamped deck. Looks like junk.

I really hope someone starts making decent prosumer or commercial quality battery zero turns so they can get enough volume to make the pricing reasonable.

A big part of the issue, Is that Zero turns require a fair bit of battery power to operate. The cheap option of Lead Acids add too much weight, and the efficient options of affordable Lithium based cells don't do well outside without large banks, good protection and good insulation. While they are obscenely expensive, the margin on them isn't all that great and the only way they can make more is by cutting back on the features unfortunately. I'm all for battery powered equipment. But for larger things it's just too expensive currently. Hell, even Tesla's 15-20k battery has been shown to be sold almost at cost to manufacture, and if they can't pump packs out cheaply at their volume no one can really at the moment.

Sakara123 fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Apr 28, 2022

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

tracecomplete posted:

Unless your tablesaw is pretty pricey, your blade guide probably doesn't have a vacuum port. There are some dust collection shrouds that sit off the side of the tablesaw and swing over top. They're not great, but I'm working on something for this. Curious what people think when I'm done.

Post your concept in the woodworking thread

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



tracecomplete posted:

Unless your tablesaw is pretty pricey, your blade guide probably doesn't have a vacuum port. There are some dust collection shrouds that sit off the side of the tablesaw and swing over top. They're not great, but I'm working on something for this. Curious what people think when I'm done.

That sounds like a bad idea in so many ways. A table saw is not a cooktop, and hopefully you're not creating smoke. The saw's natural design dumps sawdust down into the frame, so why would you want to extract it upward?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I might be completely wrong but it’s this one thing that portable saws get right? They basically mount a 2” dust port on the arbor. So you get high pressure close to the blade at all times.

Sakara123
Dec 10, 2019

The Big Chungus

Mr. Mambold posted:

That sounds like a bad idea in so many ways. A table saw is not a cooktop, and hopefully you're not creating smoke. The saw's natural design dumps sawdust down into the frame, so why would you want to extract it upward?

This, Upwards is dangerous. You risk a dust explosion at worst, or a beautiful surface area to oxygen ratio for combustion. ALWAYS extract downwards/away unless you have specific equipment. I agree that it can be quite annoying, but don't underestimate dust.

Source : Responded to a few dust explosions while working as an EMR, ranging from industrial spills to garage & barn workshops.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Let me send an email to Felder, Sawstop, Laguna, Harvey et al about how they are doing saw dust collection wrong.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

I don't know the quality of the cub cadet battery zero turn, but if you've spent half of "$4-5k" you got a very budget homeowner zero turn. Not too many years ago the typical tractor supply type of those in that price point didn't even have a floating deck and were still running separate pumps and hydros as well as garbage tier engines. I would encourage someone to spend that same money on a 2500 hour ex-landscaper used zero turn before buying something like that.

E: just looked up that $5500 battery zero turn and right out of the gate: stamped deck. Looks like junk.

I really hope someone starts making decent prosumer or commercial quality battery zero turns so they can get enough volume to make the pricing reasonable.

Interesting, when I was reading reviews most of them were Forged. I look back now and I see that in fact the most common ones are stamped.

Where do you think would be a good spot to find the ex-landscaper used ones? Craigs List? I would have thought those mowers would be stay away at all costs, as they are completely beat to poo poo? I'm not sure I'd know enough to know if something was still in good shape or not.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Interesting, when I was reading reviews most of them were Forged. I look back now and I see that in fact the most common ones are stamped.

Where do you think would be a good spot to find the ex-landscaper used ones? Craigs List? I would have thought those mowers would be stay away at all costs, as they are completely beat to poo poo? I'm not sure I'd know enough to know if something was still in good shape or not.

Where to find them depends heavily on where people post stuff in your local market.

Some of them are beat to poo poo, some of them are not. If you can't tell you probably want to talk to your local mower shop where the commercial guys go and ask them who's selling something that might be good for a homeowner.

Remember, these things are run 10 hours a day 6/7 days a week in commercial service. If they start breaking down once every couple of weeks because of yet another worn part that's a lot of expensive downtime for a commercial crew. For the average homeowner usage this moves the "yet another worn out part stopping me form mowing" to once ever year or two based on the number of hours you're putting on them. So if you're reasonably handy/can swap belts/take off wheels to bring to the store or swap your own tires/do basic engine maintenance they can be a great deal on something that's going to cut way better than any consumer mower providing you keep putting sharp blades on it.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



deimos posted:

Let me send an email to Felder, Sawstop, Laguna, Harvey et al about how they are doing saw dust collection wrong.

Well color me learning something new today.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Mr. Mambold posted:

That sounds like a bad idea in so many ways. A table saw is not a cooktop, and hopefully you're not creating smoke. The saw's natural design dumps sawdust down into the frame, so why would you want to extract it upward?

When the blade is buried in the workpiece, meaning there's wood on the left and right side of the blade, almost all dust is directed downward into the frame. But when it's not, for example when you're cutting a rabbet or trimming a piece to sneak up on a fit (both very common table saw operations), the dust just sprays to the side and in front of you, especially with a zero clearance insert. There's not much you can do about that except collect dust close to the blade, usually by using a blade guard with a dust collection port. It's not pulling all dust upward, it's pulling the dust that doesn't fall down.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
The select cut XP is beast. I can mow my yard 1.5 times a single charge. The lot is .38 acres, minus the house I estimate I can cut about 15k sq ft on a charge. It really does a great job bagging with the high lift blade.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Mr. Mambold posted:

That sounds like a bad idea in so many ways. A table saw is not a cooktop, and hopefully you're not creating smoke. The saw's natural design dumps sawdust down into the frame, so why would you want to extract it upward?

Sakara123 posted:

This, Upwards is dangerous. You risk a dust explosion at worst, or a beautiful surface area to oxygen ratio for combustion. ALWAYS extract downwards/away unless you have specific equipment. I agree that it can be quite annoying, but don't underestimate dust.

Source : Responded to a few dust explosions while working as an EMR, ranging from industrial spills to garage & barn workshops.

So, I've done some research on this because this sounded worth caution, and I'm not seeing it. Can you explain the mechanism to cause a dust explosion with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSG-DC-Collection-Blade-Guard/dp/B005VDA3TO

As mentioned, many of the high-end manufacturers have this in that same way as a SawStop - mounted to the blade guard. I can't do that without some fabrication I'm not set up to do, but I can do similar as a floating blade guard positioned over the saw. (I got distracted with some flooring stuff but I'll get back to it soon.)

These at-the-blade ports aren't intended for a high-volume, low-pressure collection source, like a dust collector--which I agree could, if it was easy to escape out the sides of the guard, raise a bunch of fine dust into the air in a way that could encourage a fire. It's intended for a shop vac to catch the chips that will not drop into the throat because of the situations that our falafel friend mentioned. Beyond that, I tend to find a lot more upward/outward spray of chips even when doing a normal cut with wood on both sides of the blade because of the zero-clearance insert, to the point where I keep my battery-powered leaf blower next to the table saw to blow everything out of the garage door. I'm unclear how pulling chips and (some) dust off of the blade directly into a vacuum is going to cause any problems that having a pile of dust building up inside the machine itself wouldn't (if not similarly evacuated with a dust collector or vacuum).

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Apr 29, 2022

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I pissed at myself I missed out the table saw last week. Back to searching Facebook and SlickDeals I guess

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Calidus posted:

I pissed at myself I missed out the table saw last week. Back to searching Facebook and SlickDeals I guess

which saw.
Set up an alert on slick deals for whatever saw you're lookin at.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I bought another thing



:q:

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
That one supports a dado stack right? That vs Delta/Rigid Contractor is what I am currently considering. I need a saw that I can easily push against the wall of my garage when not in use.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

I. M. Gei posted:

I bought another thing



:q:

I bought this a few months ago and it's great.

Sakara123
Dec 10, 2019

The Big Chungus

tracecomplete posted:

So, I've done some research on this because this sounded worth caution, and I'm not seeing it. Can you explain the mechanism to cause a dust explosion with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSG-DC-Collection-Blade-Guard/dp/B005VDA3TO

As mentioned, many of the high-end manufacturers have this in that same way as a SawStop - mounted to the blade guard. I can't do that without some fabrication I'm not set up to do, but I can do similar as a floating blade guard positioned over the saw. (I got distracted with some flooring stuff but I'll get back to it soon.)

These at-the-blade ports aren't intended for a high-volume, low-pressure collection source, like a dust collector--which I agree could, if it was easy to escape out the sides of the guard, raise a bunch of fine dust into the air in a way that could encourage a fire. It's intended for a shop vac to catch the chips that will not drop into the throat because of the situations that our falafel friend mentioned. Beyond that, I tend to find a lot more upward/outward spray of chips even when doing a normal cut with wood on both sides of the blade because of the zero-clearance insert, to the point where I keep my battery-powered leaf blower next to the table saw to blow everything out of the garage door. I'm unclear how pulling chips and (some) dust off of the blade directly into a vacuum is going to cause any problems that having a pile of dust building up inside the machine itself wouldn't (if not similarly evacuated with a dust collector or vacuum).

One like that will be fine, it's more-so if you were going to extract straight up overhead that you'd run into issues.

Also let me preface it by saying it's not guaranteed. There's obviously going to be people out there chiming in saying they've done it their whole life without issue. But when poo poo goes wrong it goes wrong big time.

Sakara123 fucked around with this message at 08:27 on May 1, 2022

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Calidus posted:

That one supports a dado stack right? That vs Delta/Rigid Contractor is what I am currently considering. I need a saw that I can easily push against the wall of my garage when not in use.

I think so, yes

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I found this buried in my backyard. I'm guessing it was some kind of utility knife?



Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



FogHelmut posted:

I found this buried in my backyard. I'm guessing it was some kind of utility knife?





Is it sharp? It looks like an angle scribe.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Mr. Mambold posted:

Is it sharp? It looks like an angle scribe.

Nah, that's a standard retractable razor knife handle that's missing the slider/spring.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Motronic posted:

Nah, that's a standard retractable razor knife handle that's missing the slider/spring.



Ah right, I see it now. 2 halves.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I got a couple of these Milescraft feather boards for my table saw.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Dual-Tandem-Feather-Board-for-Routers-Table-Saws-and-Band-Saws-1407/202241673

The boards are great, but the 3/4" tracks for them kinda suck. They're too small and I practically have to screw the knobs as tight as they'll go with a vice-grip to get them to stay in place. I'm thinking I can fix that by sticking a thin strip of padding along both sides of the track, but I'd need a pretty thin strip for that to work. Like 1/16" thick or less, and that's if I go down to the 5/8" tracks to make it all fit.

Is there a self-adhesive pad out there that I can use for this?

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

I. M. Gei posted:

I got a couple of these Milescraft feather boards for my table saw.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Dual-Tandem-Feather-Board-for-Routers-Table-Saws-and-Band-Saws-1407/202241673

The boards are great, but the 3/4" tracks for them kinda suck. They're too small and I practically have to screw the knobs as tight as they'll go with a vice-grip to get them to stay in place. I'm thinking I can fix that by sticking a thin strip of padding along both sides of the track, but I'd need a pretty thin strip for that to work. Like 1/16" thick or less, and that's if I go down to the 5/8" tracks to make it all fit.

Is there a self-adhesive pad out there that I can use for this?

Masking tape

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH




Would masking tape stay on well enough when I'm pushing wood through?

I guess if the knobs are tight enough then it should hold, but have you tried it yourself with tape?

I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 00:07 on May 2, 2022

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

I. M. Gei posted:

Would masking tape stay on well enough when I'm pushing wood through?

I guess if the knobs are tight enough then it should hold, but have you tried it yourself with tape?

Yeah, I had a Harbor freight feather board that was loose, and a strip on two on the side of the miter bar was enough to snug it up. I guess if you feel fancy, you could use friction tape or adhesive back sandpaper, or aluminum tape.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
Guess who just became the proud owner of a cheapo direct-from-china chainsaw mill!!??

*raises bloody stump that was once my hand*

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



LightRailTycoon posted:

Yeah, I had a Harbor freight feather board that was loose, and a strip on two on the side of the miter bar was enough to snug it up. I guess if you feel fancy, you could use friction tape or adhesive back sandpaper, or aluminum tape.

I do not feel fancy. Tape is fine for me.

Or rather, I DO feel fancy about a bunch of other things... which is why I want to save my money to be fancy on those other things, rather than going out and spending any more money than I have to on this particular thing.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Literally A Person posted:

Guess who just became the proud owner of a cheapo direct-from-china chainsaw mill!!??

*raises bloody stump that was once my hand*

Pictures?

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

H110Hawk posted:

Pictures?

Hells yeah. Gotta play with my little dude before his bedtime then I will take a picture of this brutal beast.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
BOOM





I need a shitload of practice with this tool. Definitely need to take a pull knife to the top of the log first. Also, this fucker is hard work as gently caress. I'm pumped to get the hang of it but right now I am like GAWD THIS IS TOO HARD

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
What do you do with the finger liberator 9000? :black101:

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

H110Hawk posted:

What do you do with the finger liberator 9000? :black101:

Cut small logs into boards. Namely I have a bunch of lovely pine and cedar logs that are going to be my new planter boxes just as soon as I get a hang of this thing.

When I saw it I was like, man this thing looks like a straight rip off a granberg but I am now noticing that some of the materials are a little cheap. Or I guess, not really the materials but the hardware. I am def going to be replacing a few bolts before I go on my next ride.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I would like to request a video because this sounds awesome. Also terrifying to have a chainsaw strapped to cheese grade hardware.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
My dad got one of those rigs when he decided he wanted to get into home sawmilling so as to not have to give as much money to Big Lumber to feed his woodworking habit but apparently it does a pretty assy job of making usable boards.

Hexigrammus
May 22, 2006

Cheech Wizard stories are clean, wholesome, reflective truths that go great with the marijuana munchies and a blow job.

I. M. Gei posted:

I got a couple of these Milescraft feather boards for my table saw.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milescraft-Dual-Tandem-Feather-Board-for-Routers-Table-Saws-and-Band-Saws-1407/202241673

The boards are great, but the 3/4" tracks for them kinda suck. They're too small and I practically have to screw the knobs as tight as they'll go with a vice-grip to get them to stay in place. I'm thinking I can fix that by sticking a thin strip of padding along both sides of the track, but I'd need a pretty thin strip for that to work. Like 1/16" thick or less, and that's if I go down to the 5/8" tracks to make it all fit.

Is there a self-adhesive pad out there that I can use for this?

Maybe you could do something with glide tape? The adhesive is quite strong and the uhmw film is very slick.

If nothing else you'll be able to repair your computer mice when they start losing their factory glide pads.




Speaking of finger liberators, and x-posting from the OSHA thread, this budget-minded ShopSmith popped up in my AliExpress recommendations :stare:




I think there's a bit of a guard that can be popped up when the circular saw is not in use. For the rest...



withak posted:

My dad got one of those rigs when he decided he wanted to get into home sawmilling so as to not have to give as much money to Big Lumber to feed his woodworking habit but apparently it does a pretty assy job of making usable boards.

There's a YouTube video of a guy demonstrating how to accurately slab out boards without using any guide/milling attachment. He does a better job than I do with the guides and mills. I hate him.

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Sakara123
Dec 10, 2019

The Big Chungus

Hexigrammus posted:

Maybe you could do something with glide tape? The adhesive is quite strong and the uhmw film is very slick.

If nothing else you'll be able to repair your computer mice when they start losing their factory glide pads.




Speaking of finger liberators, and x-posting from the OSHA thread, this budget-minded ShopSmith popped up in my AliExpress recommendations :stare:




I think there's a bit of a guard that can be popped up when the circular saw is not in use. For the rest...

There's a YouTube video of a guy demonstrating how to accurately slab out boards without using any guide/milling attachment. He does a better job than I do with the guides and mills. I hate him.


I love aliexpress tools. theres undoubtedly a whole load of garbage on there, but some of the things they manage to find new uses for or frankenstein together is genuinely brilliant. I'd never trust most of it to get the job done, but there's a lot of projects i've finished that would have been a lot harder without some weird niche tool idea.

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