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And that's missing posts, cement, labor, delivery, gates, etc etc. It's a lot more than that $12/lin foot panel cost.
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May 8, 2022 15:22
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Is there an appliance-centric thread or is this the best place? Troubleshooting and repair specifically.
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May 8, 2022 17:34
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270 feet with avinyl fence. There's existing fence on about half of it that needs to be torn down. E; sorry I'm just getting sticker shock because I had expected so much and now it's much higher
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May 8, 2022 18:04
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I just wrote 240-LF of 6' shadow fence (that's the stockade-style, but with staves on alternating sides). Remove, replace with cemented posts & disposal was about $19,000. Vinyl is higher.
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May 8, 2022 18:14
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slidebite posted:Is there an appliance-centric thread or is this the best place? Troubleshooting and repair specifically. Funny, home ownership is almost perfectly needlessly bifurcated between two threads, this one and the other one: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3774735&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=430 This one is ever so slightly more DIY or repair focused, but lots of DIY and repair show up in the other one too. Anyway, no appliance specific thread, so 
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May 8, 2022 19:48
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Looking for a check on my plumbing problem to see if this makes sense I'm in a 1 story house with one toilet, one shower, one bathroom sink, two kitchen sinks, a dish washing machine that drains through the kitchen sink, and a top loading washing machine on the other side of the wall from my kitchen sink that shares a drain pipe. When my washing machine drains during the spin cycle, it backs up and spills out from the pipe the drain hose drains into, and my kitchen sinks both back up with water and make gurgling noises. The water eventually clears after the washing machine finishes draining. The sinks don't back up under normal use outside of the washing machine draining. Nothing in the bathroom backs up or changes in any way. It seems that if the main line were clogged further down, the back up would first happen in the bath tub or toilet, since they're lower than the sinks. I snaked the two kitchen sinks and the washing machine drain pipe with a 12 ft manual snake augur thing and found nothing. May be too short. I got on the roof to look at the vent pipe above the primary kitchen sink and washing machine. Can't see poo poo, definitely hear the kitchen sink when it's running from the pipe. I ran a hose into the vent pipe and it seemed to encounter some sort of block in the pipe, not sure if it's just a bend though. I lifted it and gently bonked the bottom of the pipe to see if it would clear any obstruction but no. I turned the hose on while it was pointed into the vent pipe, and the water immediately backed up and overflowed out of the vent pipe. Am I right in thinking the vent pipe is clogged? The backing up is limited, and seems to happen with very high throughput into the drain. How would I fix it?
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May 9, 2022 01:08
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Sounds like there's no vent to relieve the high traffic of a discharging washing machine. What diameter is the drain pipe shared by the sink & the washing machine?
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May 9, 2022 02:13
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I’ll add that I’ve been here for a year and it’s only become a problem within the past couple of weeks. I can’t tell what size the drain pipe is for the washing machine or the kitchen, they’re behind the wall
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May 9, 2022 02:16
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can a goon recommend some weed killer to me? Just looking to spot spray a few things, but I know nothing about herbicides soooooo
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May 9, 2022 14:36
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Johnny Truant posted:can a goon recommend some weed killer to me? Just looking to spot spray a few things, but I know nothing about herbicides soooooo Unless you are trying to target a thing in the middle of something else that you can't avoid spraying, glycophosphate (roundup) is still a good choice. If it's the first thing and you're careful with spraying you can do some pretty good spot targeting with it still. I wouldn't use it for weeds in a yard with grass I wanted to save though.
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May 9, 2022 14:54
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Johnny Truant posted:can a goon recommend some weed killer to me? Just looking to spot spray a few things, but I know nothing about herbicides soooooo How much do you care about things like bees and the health of the ecosystem? There could be very different answers based on that. And what are you trying to kill? Something super invasive and tough to manage or a lawn weed
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May 9, 2022 14:55
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If you want something non-selective (IE: If it's green, it's going to die) find something with Glyphosphate. Round up is the obvious one. Despite some people that are VERY vocal against it, it's quite safe and dissolves from the environment quickly especially if you're just doing a spot here and there. For best results you typically don't want to spray within a few hours (or day is better) of rainfall/watering. As with all yard chemicals, it's best to wear gloves and not spray it into your eyes or try to see what it tastes like.  My father in law (RIP) used to swear by the selective, lawn-safe version of Spectracide. If you're not doing many weeds, nothing wrong with old fashioned digging them up. Quite effective, except with some weeds like quackgrass which are a pain in the dick. I have to chemical bomb that poo poo.
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May 9, 2022 14:58
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bi crimes posted:I’ll add that I’ve been here for a year and it’s only become a problem within the past couple of weeks. The fact that it's only been a problem for a couple weeks makes me think there's a lint catch that filled up or lint that otherwise got stuck somewhere (though a 12' auger probably would have been able to find it so hmm). Johnny Truant posted:can a goon recommend some weed killer to me? Just looking to spot spray a few things, but I know nothing about herbicides soooooo If it's just weeds here and there, I'd get one of those weed-pulling tools that looks like a pogo stick. We have this one and it works quite well: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Corona-MAX-43-75-in-WeedSLAYER-Weeder-LG13655/314032781 It's great because you don't have to get down on your hands and knees and it goes pretty deep and gets the roots. Excellent for dandelions and overall a surprisingly satisfying way to vanquish weeds (plus you don't have to worry about chemicals you use killing bees or other beneficial insects).
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May 9, 2022 15:42
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I am trying to permanently murder a vine in a fence row so I am hoping my Death To All Things spray that just came in is finally gonna be the answer for me after two years of loving around with Roundup and spending hours and hours pulling it out by hand. Active Ingredient Glyphosate 43.68%, Imazapyr 0.78%  https://www.domyown.com/eraser-max-super-concentrate-herbicide-p-17313.html
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May 9, 2022 16:01
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Thanks for all the advice! I'm mostly looking at typical lawn weeds that pop up between the paving of a small path, and then some random ones in/adjacent to my garden. I like bees and generally don't want to kill any of the perennials that have been erupting all over my property. Not too many, if any, targets within my yard, but how far should stuff I want to keep alive be away from glycophosphate spray? Can I just spray it right at the base of the weed (at least one spiky one is quite large already, probably 8-10" in diameter and almost as high) and be done with it, or are most herbicides like "spray the crap out of this plant"?
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May 9, 2022 16:08
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I use a blowtorch but I have gravel
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May 9, 2022 16:13
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Johnny Truant posted:Thanks for all the advice! If you want to avoid killing pollinators you can try vinegar. If you don’t care about pollinators use roundup. Roundup works way better at killing weeds and pollinators.
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May 9, 2022 16:25
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Johnny Truant posted:Thanks for all the advice! Roundup works via the leaves, a thing I have done successfully in the past for large-ish weeds near other desirables is make a cardboard collar of sorts to slide onto the stem of the weed that blocks overspray, then spray the heck out of the weed. I have rarely murdered the wrong thing this way.
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May 9, 2022 16:31
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Johnny Truant posted:Thanks for all the advice! My wife uses vinegar and dish soap on our paver path. It works great. 1 oz dish soap to 1 gallon white vinegar, put in a spray bottle and go nuts. It doesn't always kill it completely dead, so they might come back a little later in the season but it's easy enough to reapply.
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May 9, 2022 16:33
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BigFactory posted:If you want to avoid killing pollinators you can try vinegar. If you don’t care about pollinators use roundup. Roundup works way better at killing weeds and pollinators. It's becoming increasingly clear that the "inert" ingredients in Roundup are the larger issue with killing pollinators (the surfactants and sticker/spreaders), not the glyphosate itself. None of these are issues when dry. So, as always, apply properly. Roundup should be applied on a warm, sunny day with calm or no winds. This should allow it to dry within hours, and the sunlight will decompose any remaining glyphosate on the soil quickly. FYI, vinegar has a similar impact on pollinators. So it's not just "chemicals" that cause these issues.
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May 9, 2022 16:38
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Motronic posted:It's becoming increasingly clear that the "inert" ingredients in Roundup are the larger issue with killing pollinators (the surfactants and sticker/spreaders), not the glyphosate itself. None of these are issues when dry. My old next door neighbor kept bees in his back yard. Once a year, for 8 years, I sprayed the weeds that came up through the pavement cracks with the roundup that claims to last for a year. I only ever did so on a windless day, and it never seemed to have any impact on the bees that lived literally 50 ft away. So yeah, I think there's a big difference between a little sidewalk weed murder and industrial scale field clearing when it comes to glyphosate application and polinators.
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May 9, 2022 16:53
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Boiling water does a great job of killing weeds.
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May 9, 2022 17:36
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Boiling glyphosphate during a tornado, got it!
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May 9, 2022 18:53
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Does it matter which brand of toilet seat I buy? (pause for chorus of "Not to me, it doesn't!") The toilets are builder's special round-tops, so I don't have to worry about fit issues. I was planning on getting a non-plastic quiet-close and calling it a day.
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May 9, 2022 19:50
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The biggest problem with having soft-close toilet seats is that you absolutely will start slamming toilet seats everywhere that does not.
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May 9, 2022 19:52
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Motronic posted:The biggest problem with having soft-close toilet seats is that you absolutely will start slamming toilet seats everywhere that does not. also, ymmv but I prefer plastic because it's easier to clean. MDF ("wood") can get very nasty
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May 9, 2022 19:53
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:also, ymmv but I prefer plastic because it's easier to clean. MDF ("wood") can get very nasty I associate "plastic" with the thin kind that breaks easily. I'm out-of-date, probably.
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May 9, 2022 20:00
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Anne Whateley posted:also, ymmv but I prefer plastic because it's easier to clean. MDF ("wood") can get very nasty This; also whatever is done to make them close softly tends to fail over time, IME.
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May 9, 2022 20:00
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Motronic posted:The biggest problem with having soft-close toilet seats is that you absolutely will start slamming toilet seats everywhere that does not. Did this exact thing at work and thought I broke the drat seat, lol
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May 9, 2022 20:24
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Motronic posted:The biggest problem with having soft-close toilet seats is that you absolutely will start slamming toilet seats everywhere that does not. Soft close seats are incredible. Nicer thick plastic vs wood every time. And yes if this ain't the truth. I can always tell who has a soft close at home when they drop a seat.
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May 9, 2022 21:52
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The previous owner converted all but one cabinet door in the kitchen to soft close. The one non-soft close is the danger door and you can always tell when someone in the house has closed it
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May 9, 2022 22:00
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Washlet bidet or at least a heated seat
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May 9, 2022 23:34
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We have well water with an iron bacteria infestation (one of the many contractors I'm trying to reach), so not new place for water to dry until that's fixed.
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May 10, 2022 00:20
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Motronic posted:The biggest problem with having soft-close toilet seats is that you absolutely will start slamming toilet seats everywhere that does not. I feel seen.
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May 10, 2022 02:09
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Welp, got a new house so I'm back in the DIY game. Luckily it was a to-the-studs reno so everything inside is all brand new (although I'm sure some issues will crop up) And there's no real yard. Just a deck with a fence...and a small flower bed area. So... uh... I'm not sure what I'll be doing. There *is* a gas outlet to the outside where they had it hooked up to some sort of fire-pit thing I presume. So might put one of those in.
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May 10, 2022 02:12
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So I have a rough sawn beam that spans the ceiling of my living room and some previous owner went and painted it. What’s a good way of stripping the paint so I can properly stain it?
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May 10, 2022 02:23
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big news on the grout saga, the colorant worked very well, thank god because I was not having the whole thing regrouted now to enjoy cleaning grout haze
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May 10, 2022 03:52
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bi crimes posted:The previous owner converted all but one cabinet door in the kitchen to soft close. The one non-soft close is the danger door and you can always tell when someone in the house has closed it Ever tried something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Clear-Soft-Rubber-Like-Plastic-Self-Adhesive-Round-Bumpers-16-Pack-49967/203661150
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May 10, 2022 04:11
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Casimir Radon posted:So I have a rough sawn beam that spans the ceiling of my living room and some previous owner went and painted it. What’s a good way of stripping the paint so I can properly stain it? Gel stripper, heat gun, sanding in order of laziness.
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May 10, 2022 04:14
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Casimir Radon posted:So I have a rough sawn beam that spans the ceiling of my living room and some previous owner went and painted it. What’s a good way of stripping the paint so I can properly stain it? I've got the same thing. You might want to try and find a section that isn't painted, maybe in a closet or something, just to see if it is actually natural wood grain or if it was stained/painted another color when installed. Mine, confirmed by my neighbors identical house, was painted brown upon install, which I think might have been to protect the wood from moisture because my beams go from my center beam to my eaves outside. Then my POs painted them white at some point during their early 90s reno. I really want to go back to natural wood but the process would be laborious and a huge pain in the rear end. I've heard mixed things. Chemical strippers are stinky and messy and they don't always get great results. Sanding is really messy and takes a while. You'll go through lots of sand paper gumming it up with paint and or stain. A heat gun should allow you to melt and scrape the paint, leaving it bare enough that a final sanding should be able to get it back to natural wood with a smooth finish. If it's stained, your best bet might be a heat gun.
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May 10, 2022 04:15
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