|
Does anyone make a commercial-style pull down faucet with a metal sprayer? I don’t want to spend a fortune, but even the more expensive models seem to have a plastic sprayer. They seem junky and have no heft. Google yields lots of ads and ‘best of’ lists with the same 3 brands.
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 17:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 14:59 |
|
|
Please define "not a fortune", because quality faucets are pricey. I wouldn't expect to get what you're describing under $600, assuming you also want it to actually look good/like it belongs in a home kitchen.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 17:15
|
|
|
I wasn’t sure. Seems anything from $60 to $400+ in my searches was plastic. Good to know where I need to start from. This is for a summer cabin, so just want sturdy as many hands will abuse it.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 17:20
|
|
|
You probably want to go right to a bath and kitchen showroom. The kind of place designers and contractors bring their clients to for choosing fixtures. You're looking for things like Newport Brass which may be able to come in around $800 or so. There may be more budget options depending on what lines they carry. But what you're describing is generally something that has an MSRP around $1k. https://www.newportbrass.com/products/categories/05/kitchen/21/pull-downpull-out-faucets/ Or if you really really don't care what it looks like and actually want a real deal commercial faucet what you're looking for is called a "pre rise faucet" and they can be had for much less: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/14985/pre-rinse-faucets-and-pre-rinse-spray-valves.html?filter=mounting-style:deck-mounted Those are legit commercial faucets of varying quality. They are not "commercial faucets" in big quotation marks that you will find by searching for that term in google and getting a bunch of results from Home Depot, Lowes, and other consumer oriented companies selling mock-commercial stuff that was designed to go into a home. Which also means they are not single hole mount, so you need to be certain of what you've got for a sink (and a huge amount of space above it) to see if this will even work. They are also heavy, so a home gamer basic metal sink is NOT going to be suitable to hold a deck mount one. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 8, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 17:31
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Does anyone make a commercial-style pull down faucet with a metal sprayer? I don’t want to spend a fortune, but even the more expensive models seem to have a plastic sprayer. They seem junky and have no heft. Google yields lots of ads and ‘best of’ lists with the same 3 brands. Username / post combo is spot on here. You're looking at $500 to get started for a basic sink setup as Motronic said. Anything more specialized goes up in price basically $250/checkbox. Eventually if you want it "luxury" just double it.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 17:48
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Does anyone make a commercial-style pull down faucet with a metal sprayer? I don’t want to spend a fortune, but even the more expensive models seem to have a plastic sprayer. They seem junky and have no heft. Google yields lots of ads and ‘best of’ lists with the same 3 brands. IKEA VIMMERN https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/vimmern-kitchen-faucet-with-handspray-stainless-steel-color-10305289/
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 18:05
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:IKEA VIMMERN That faucet is worth exactly what it's priced at. It's extremely cheaply made (and feels it).
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 18:10
|
|
|
I don’t like how expensive all the things I want are turning out to be…
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 18:17
|
|
|
Motronic posted:You probably want to go right to a bath and kitchen showroom. The kind of place designers and contractors bring their clients to for choosing fixtures. I bought one of those commercial faucets with the super high pressure sprayer to go with the full stainless commercial sink I put in to brew beer. It's great. It's also very austere and clearly for restaurants. It would look a bit odd in a fancy kitchen. I still love it though. Webstaurant store is great.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 18:31
|
|
|
The detergent door on my ~2 year old dishwasher has stopped opening. There's nothing blocking it, and I can pry it open with my hands, but if I fill it up and run a load of dishes, the door will be closed when the cycle is finished. We have hard water, so I'm going to try and soak/scrub it with vinegar, but is there anything else I should try?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 22:09
|
|
|
ive got a swing open cabinet door next to my stove that i'd rather turn into a pull out trash can. i see tons of sets everywhere. Anyone got one they use and recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2022 23:53
|
|
|
I have a plumbing problem. When my washing machine drains, it makes my toilet bubble and do strange things, and the washer overflows out it's little mini-vent stack: The toilet is fairly far away from the washer, but right above where the washer drain line meets the main stack. Yesterday when this was happening, I flushed the toilet to see what would happen. It filled the bowl with water, and then drained slowly over the next couple minutes to below normal levels. Took a few flushes afterwards to get it to fill to the normal level. I 'snaked' the washer drain line as far as I could with a garden hose and it was clear up until it bends and the hose wouldn't make the bend. Turning the hose on eventually led to water coming back out the cleanout, so I assume there is a partial clog somewhere. The toilet/sink/shower/kitchen all drain fine, and the shower ties into the same vent stack as the washer drain where it meets the main sewer pipe. What's going on here? Do I just need to get my main sewer line snaked, or is there some weird vent problem? This has only started happening in the last month or three as far as I can tell. My guess is that there is a partial blockage that the volume of water from the washer overwhelms?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 00:56
|
|
|
FizFashizzle posted:ive got a swing open cabinet door next to my stove that i'd rather turn into a pull out trash can. I've had this one for a couple of years and it has done well: https://www.rockler.com/rev-a-shelf-waste-and-recycling-container-pullouts-double-bin
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 02:40
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I've had this one for a couple of years and it has done well: https://www.rockler.com/rev-a-shelf-waste-and-recycling-container-pullouts-double-bin  game changer.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 03:03
|
|
|
Lester Shy posted:The detergent door on my ~2 year old dishwasher has stopped opening. There's nothing blocking it, and I can pry it open with my hands, but if I fill it up and run a load of dishes, the door will be closed when the cycle is finished. We have hard water, so I'm going to try and soak/scrub it with vinegar, but is there anything else I should try? There's going to be a solenoid inside the door that triggers mid-cycle and it's possible it or the linkage has failed. Generally not the worst repair, googling model number and "detergent solenoid" is probably a good start to find a manual/part replacement guide.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 14:58
|
|
|
About 6 months ago the lever on my toilet broke and I replaced it with a generic $20 plastic model. It works OK, but two things. First, the lever handle doesn't quite sit flush against the tank. It kind of leans out a bit like \. Like there should be a washer or nut or something to secure it from the inside of the tank to the outside more securely, but there was nothing else in the kit. Just the lever assembly. It works OK, but looks crappy. Second, it sometimes takes a lot of effort to make it flush. Way more than it feels like should really be necessary. This is a tank where the part that lifts and releases the water is located in the center, and there is a ring/loop of plastic where the lever is threaded through. Push down on the handle, lever lifts up and pushes the ring up, toilet flushes. I cannot see a way to rotate the central post that will make that ring move along the lever making it easier to flush. Are these issues related? What can I do to fix it? I'm OK with spending a bit more money if it solves the problem. I can get pictures later if it will help.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 15:49
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I've had this one for a couple of years and it has done well: https://www.rockler.com/rev-a-shelf-waste-and-recycling-container-pullouts-double-bin This is okay with adjustable width right? Mine is a little wider than normal.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 16:52
|
|
|
FizFashizzle posted:This is okay with adjustable width right? As long as you have enough width and depth to mount it nothing else really matters (within reason) since your cabinet door is just mounting to a few holes in the front of the pull out. You align the cabinet door wherever it needs to be and sink some screws through the bracket into your door.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 17:14
|
|
|
FizFashizzle posted:This is okay with adjustable width right? Check out their spec/install documents, there are a bunch of different versions and each comes in a variety of sizes: https://www.rev-a-shelf.com/all-products?cat=35 You can filter by cabinet opening size. I usually specify one of these two, in the absence of other client preferences: https://rev-a-shelf.com/27474 https://rev-a-shelf.com/2528
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2022 17:32
|
|
|
I have one of these piano stands, except it’s missing the top two legs. I’m too cheap to get another and too lazy to track down replacement parts, so I was thinking of just replacing those with some wooden dowels of the same length and roughly the same diameter. Then, I can place a board on it to hold some relatively light hardware. The top legs are essentially hollow metal tubes with some screw holes cut through them to fasten them to the scissored poles. Normally they come pre-cut with a hex-head screw so all you need to do is screw it in. If I wanted to replace them with wooden dowels, I’ll need to drill a hole of appropriate diameter at a dead-on 90 degree angle through the widest part of the dowel. I don’t have any precision equipment. No saw either, I’d probably ask Home Depot to cut the wooden dowels to size. All I’ve got is a drill, a tape measure and a pencil. I have no idea how to ensure that I drill the hole completely dead center the first time, because that’s pretty crucial. How do I do that? I also don’t know how to make sure the board I put on it doesn’t slide around or bend under the weight of the hardware. What can I do? Anyway, is this a good and/or cost-effective idea? Or should I just say gently caress it and buy a cheap board of wood and a new desk stand?
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 15:00
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I've had this one for a couple of years and it has done well: https://www.rockler.com/rev-a-shelf-waste-and-recycling-container-pullouts-double-bin Coupon V20737 currently works for this, %15 off and free shipping
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 19:00
|
|
|
Pollyanna posted:I have one of these piano stands, except it’s missing the top two legs. I’m too cheap to get another and too lazy to track down replacement parts, so I was thinking of just replacing those with some wooden dowels of the same length and roughly the same diameter. Then, I can place a board on it to hold some relatively light hardware. If I understand your project right, you're going to put two wooden dowels through the tops of the X shape, so that they form a base for a platform to rest on. I'm not clear on why you need the two holes drilled through. I would suggest you use brackets designed to hold a round thing to a flat surface - like this:  If you get the right radius, you can screw these to the underside of your platform and tighten them down so they clamp the dowels firmly and you'll be all set. Yeah? e. Wait, is the problem that you need to affix the dowels to the X bars and you need a screw through them to do that? Because I think a single screw at the center of a wooden dowel is not going to work regardless, pressure at the front or rear of the platform will rip the screw through the wood in short order, or at least compress the wood fibers and allow the top surface to come loose and wobble. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:24 on May 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 19:22
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:If I understand your project right, you're going to put two wooden dowels through the tops of the X shape, so that they form a base for a platform to rest on. I'm not clear on why you need the two holes drilled through. I would suggest you use brackets designed to hold a round thing to a flat surface - like this: The latter. That’s how the original metal legs are meant to attach up top. It sounds like the single screw only works in the case of the original metal legs because they’re metal and because the stand isn’t intended to hold much more than a relatively light electric piano. Might be hosed if they’re wood. I’ll just file it away somewhere and look for a cheap desk or something instead.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 20:11
|
|
|
Looking for shower safety grab bars for installation in older relative's bathroom. Trying to avoid drilling into tile but the safety bars I've found that use suction cups all need about 3" area and the tiles are about 2.5", so that won't work. Are there any other recommended options for a way to install safety bars for that tile size, or would it likely be necessary to drill into the tile? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 22:51
|
|
|
Pollyanna posted:The latter. That’s how the original metal legs are meant to attach up top. It sounds like the single screw only works in the case of the original metal legs because they’re metal and because the stand isn’t intended to hold much more than a relatively light electric piano. Might be hosed if they’re wood. I’ll just file it away somewhere and look for a cheap desk or something instead. You could in theory buy some light aluminum tube and make a hole, or rig up some brackets that would securely hold dowel, but it doesn't look like a particularly cost/time-effective rescue project given it was apparently around $25-$35 new.
|
|
#
?
May 10, 2022 22:57
|
|
|
Hyrax Attack! posted:Looking for shower safety grab bars for installation in older relative's bathroom. Trying to avoid drilling into tile but the safety bars I've found that use suction cups all need about 3" area and the tiles are about 2.5", so that won't work. You should drill this in and deal with the consequences. If grandma breaks a hip in the shower because the grab bar lets go you're going to feel really guilty. All screws need to completely bite wood. If they cannot, you need to open it further, put in blocking, and patch it back up. I wouldn't trust a suction cup one with my life. One way to make this easier is with an oscillating tool. I'm sure someone here will have a better idea, but literally cut out the grout / backer, take out squares, figure out the grab bar, put it back together fixing the waterproofing. You may want to contract this out. Otherwise, buy or borrow a tile saw.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 00:56
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:You should drill this in and deal with the consequences. If grandma breaks a hip in the shower because the grab bar lets go you're going to feel really guilty. All screws need to completely bite wood. If they cannot, you need to open it further, put in blocking, and patch it back up. I wouldn't trust a suction cup one with my life. One way to make this easier is with an oscillating tool. I'm sure someone here will have a better idea, but literally cut out the grout / backer, take out squares, figure out the grab bar, put it back together fixing the waterproofing. Building on this response... If you have exposed wall above the shower/bath stall you can locate studs there and trace them down to your mounting location. Or you can find them on the other side of the wall and trace them around. This isn't the easiest thing to do if you haven't done it before, and messing up leaves extra holes in your tile. So I would definitely hire it out, just explaining the technique. You don't need blocking if you can find the studs as long as you are OK with the grab bars not being mounted exactly horizontal. Just skew the grab bar to line up with the studs. You can also add blocking from the other side of the wall if that's easier. There are also a few systems by real manufacturers that do not require hitting a stud. I don't recommend them because I think anything you grab while falling should be fastened to framing, but at least they are real companies that produced the product, so you would expect them to have thought about product liability. Moen Securemount https://www.moen.com/products/Moen_Home_Care/Moen_Home_Care_SecureMount_Anchor_1_Pair/SMA1000CH
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 01:06
|
|
|
I'm replacing some closet door hardware. When the original hardware was put in they did 4" center to center, which is not standard at all (like much of this place). The much more common size and what I'm want to use is 3 25/32" center to center. The new hardware is also 1/8 shorter than the old one. So the holes need to be dealt with somehow, but only in the most minute fashion. So I'm thinking that I will just expand the current holes just a tiny amount to fit the new hardware, but I will have a just barely noticeable opening exposed. what is the best way to deal with this? just put a tiny bit of wood filler in the now unused space and a dab of paint and hope you don't notice?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 03:03
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:I'm replacing some closet door hardware. When the original hardware was put in they did 4" center to center, which is not standard at all (like much of this place). The much more common size and what I'm want to use is 3 25/32" center to center. The new hardware is also 1/8 shorter than the old one. So the holes need to be dealt with somehow, but only in the most minute fashion. So I'm thinking that I will just expand the current holes just a tiny amount to fit the new hardware, but I will have a just barely noticeable opening exposed. what is the best way to deal with this? just put a tiny bit of wood filler in the now unused space and a dab of paint and hope you don't notice? That's what I would do, yeah.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 15:30
|
|
|
Hyrax Attack! posted:Looking for shower safety grab bars for installation in older relative's bathroom. Maybe you've already looked into it, but some insurance policies will cover materials and/or installation of safety equipment. I was able to get bathtub grab bars, shower bars and other hand-holds installed for my parents this way. It's extremely annoying having to deal with the insurance company, but at least it was free and installed by professionals.
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 15:53
|
|
|
Lester Shy posted:Maybe you've already looked into it, but some insurance policies will cover materials and/or installation of safety equipment. I was able to get bathtub grab bars, shower bars and other hand-holds installed for my parents this way. It's extremely annoying having to deal with the insurance company, but at least it was free and installed by professionals. Homeowners or health? What's the magic incantation? Doctors note?
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 16:11
|
|
|
Health insurance. For us, it was a combination of things, and I'm sure it varies wildly depending on what insurance you have. They already had a prescription for in-home physical therapy; doctors are usually happy to write a script for this if you have any mobility issues. As part of the PT onboarding, the therapist appraised the house's safety needs and got us setup with a local company that does installations. About half of that stuff was covered under PT. They also have a mail-order store thing through their insurance that gives them credits to spend every quarter. See if your people have a "Firstline Benefit" or an "OTC Benefit." Through this I was able to get bathtub safety bars, a shower seat, and some safety rails for "free."
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 17:15
|
|
|
Lester Shy posted:Health insurance. For us, it was a combination of things, and I'm sure it varies wildly depending on what insurance you have. Crazy. I know my parents went through this and got a central vac system through their insurance. I would be really curious about the specific claim / coding there, but yeah I'll hit up our benefits folks. I don't have a need for one today and my elderly inlaws already have them, but good for the back pocket. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 11, 2022 17:34
|
|
|
i was going in to replace an outlet and i noticed that each line screw had two wires under each of them. they aren't really screws, they're plates that get screwed down and each plate does have two notches for wires so nothing really looks janky and it seems like the outlets support this. is this ok? why isn't the second set of wires using the load screws?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 07:17
|
|
|
What "load screws"? Is this a GFCI? If not it's fine. And even perhaps if it is. Not enough information.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 14:09
|
|
|
Sounds like the line is being daisy-chained through the line side to the next receptacle instead of using a wire nut?
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 14:56
|
|
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:i was going in to replace an outlet and i noticed that each line screw had two wires under each of them. they aren't really screws, they're plates that get screwed down and each plate does have two notches for wires so nothing really looks janky and it seems like the outlets support this. is this ok? why isn't the second set of wires using the load screws? Pictures would be good.
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2022 15:13
|
|
|
Should I pay attention to expiry dates on smoke or CO detectors or can I use them until they fail the test procedure? I don't think any of the ones I have have that radioactive thingy.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2022 00:19
|
|
|
Flipperwaldt posted:Should I pay attention to expiry dates on smoke or CO detectors YES. Absence of alert/detection does not equal absence of problems.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2022 01:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 14:59 |
|
|
sorry for the half-assed question. this perhaps shows how ignorant I am about wiring generally or that the only outlets I replace are GFCI but I assumed the load/line was a universal thing as opposed to a GFCI only thing. I'd also run into this weeks ago but kept forgetting to ask for help and I think the actual situation got scrambled in my brain. It is a non-GFCI bathroom receptacle that is on a GFCI circuit to the other bathroom where the GFCI receptacle is located. I was wanting to replace the non-GFCI with a GFCI without realizing it was connected to the other bathroom. I pulled the receptacle out of the wall and saw a fairly standard (I assume) 30 year old backstab style and because I didn't see any load/line indicators my brain shut down. the new GFCI I bought has like a clamp plate of some kind that looks like it can take two wires on each side/screw so I was like "do they all just go on line????" because at the time I did not realize it was connected to the other bathrooms outlet and wasn't 100% sure how I should deal with it. I should have looked at the outlet again before asking for help. I would like the further receptacles to continue to be GFCI protected so can I assume the bottom pair on the old receptacle be attach to load? https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNL1-W-R02-Gfnl1-00W-Self-Test-Receptacle/dp/B013OVC61C 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2022 06:22
|
|