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1. Hey cool you can use a modifier mesh to essentially turn off Fuzzy Skin on one side of a model, so you know one side is fuzzy and the other is smooth!  2. Ugggghh this is how it does it? Grosssss  I was really hoping it would just... bypass fuzzy skin generation inside the modifier mesh instead of this layering on nonsense that traps a fuzzy perimeter inside my model  
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May 11, 2022 18:36
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Designed and printed this little egg carrier yesterday for carting them back to the house from the coop. Pretty happy with the fit of the little snap-on feet. Printer wasn't too happy about the handle but did fine enough for a first go. Sovol SV01 Generic PLA 0.2mm 210c/65c ~9 hours Probably gonna break out this bright red PETG and print a nicer one.    
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May 11, 2022 19:30
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Photon Mono X just dropped like $80 in price. $382 on Amazon. Likely going to order that tonight.
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May 11, 2022 19:45
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Wibla posted:The waves on the top left print indicates printing too close to the bed, but you have other issues as well. I did another round of cleaning the satin sheet, then replaced the silicone sock and adjusted the Z level. round 2 is working fine. I'm going to chalk it up to too low level and some oil on the bed.
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May 11, 2022 23:24
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@Ambrose Burnside looks like there’s now Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra - I recall you having issues finding regular Sculpt at some point so i wonder if it’s a full replacement.
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May 12, 2022 00:47
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Hope y'all liked Cura. https://techcrunch.com/2022/05/12/makerbot-and-ultimaker-are-merging/
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May 12, 2022 19:03
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That’s pretty interesting - GrabCAD Print is ok, I’m real curious how the slicing system is going to shake out. MakerBot have been the red headed stepchild of Stratasys pretty much the whole time, but the Method series have been really good entry level tool machines. I don’t think Ultimaker machines have really stood out features wise to me. I guess between Formlabs, Markforged, and maybe downward pressure from the Stratasys F123 series have made these machines pretty hard to market.
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May 12, 2022 21:18
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NewFatMike posted:MakerBot have been the red headed stepchild of Stratasys pretty much the whole time I'm wondering if Stratasys moving to a minority stake of the new entity signals that they've had trouble wringing profit from the hobbyist market
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May 12, 2022 21:51
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I don’t know about all that - current MakerBot models are really more of an educational tool than they are a hobbyist device. They’re poorly positioned for industrial or even prototype manufacturing on any real scale. It’s much better situated for a library or makerspace as an entry to Stratasys stuff and you can get a service technician to fix it. Margins are low for MakerBot in the reseller scene, and frankly their best application is probably custom fixturing in smaller CNC machines or maybe enclosures. I want one for soft jaws, myself. It’s hard to recommend these over something like a Markforged Onyx device unless you really really need filament variety (and there are some drat good ones for the Method series). It’s just weird positioning. There’s room for some great stuff in the price range, but differentiation is hard - especially when you can’t be better in too many ways than the next option up.
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May 12, 2022 22:12
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NewFatMike posted:I don’t know about all that - current MakerBot models are really more of an educational tool than they are a hobbyist device. They’re poorly positioned for industrial or even prototype manufacturing on any real scale. It’s much better situated for a library or makerspace as an entry to Stratasys stuff and you can get a service technician to fix it. What part of a MakerBot do you need for softjaws?
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May 12, 2022 22:38
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MakerBot Method X Carbon Edition produces some excellent nylon carbon fiber parts, and the bed is sized just right for 4”-6” jaw sizes. My team used that same material at BattleBots last year and they held up really great. E: you get multiple materials with the above printer so you can get really complex geometry, too.
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May 12, 2022 22:50
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Ultimaker's business sales end of things is beyond fantastic. They have absolutely nailed what it takes to market to, sell to, support, and ultimately upsell to business and especially enterprise users when it comes to 3d printing. Maybe they can bring that to makerbot, for some reason. Or makerbot can provide the next step up in terms of printers to ultimaker (like 10k+ not <5k)?
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May 12, 2022 23:13
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Yeah the over $10k mark is where you hit the Stratasys F123 Series which is *great* for entry level enterprise printers. Since Stratasys have a 46% share, I don’t think they’ll be pushing that far up, but I’d appreciate being surprised. Does Ultimaker mostly do direct sales or do they use resellers? MakerBot is currently sold through the Stratasys reseller network for the most part.
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May 13, 2022 01:48
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Any thoughts on these model? I’d rather just make the plunge and print my warhammer terrain and proxies vs paying full price for factory stuff. https://www.microcenter.com/product/600161/monoprice-121666-mp-mini-delta-3d-printer https://www.microcenter.com/product/621046/monoprice-cadet-3d-printer Also kids have been better recently and I have places where I can put it. It’s just for printing out WH minis or terrain. I’m okay with it being in parts due to the size. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 00:51 on May 14, 2022 |
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May 14, 2022 00:48
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FDM isn't great for minis. Terrain will probably be mostly fine, though.
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May 14, 2022 00:53
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Javid posted:FDM isn't great for minis. Terrain will probably be mostly fine, though. What would you recommend for a basic printing out minis type set up? Like what spec should I be looking for? Actually going over to Micro Center now to just take a quick peek at their stuff and just get some rough ideas.
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May 14, 2022 01:26
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You’ll want a resin printer - I’m not sure if there are any particularly desirable models besides the monocolor screen ones.
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May 14, 2022 01:28
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Marshal Prolapse posted:What would you recommend for a basic printing out minis type set up? Like what spec should I be looking for? Actually going over to Micro Center now to just take a quick peek at their stuff and just get some rough ideas. Any random rear end 2-300$ resin printer. Make sure it has a mono screen. I like elegoo, but have hit the point where I'm looking to spend a bit more on printers with a little more reliability considering i have a few running 24/7. Really waiting on a large format DLP printer like the anycubic yours to come out. That sounds ideal.
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May 14, 2022 02:01
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Anycubic has a sale going on at the moment I believe, their Photon Mono 4k is going for around $200 (not counting tax/shipping where applicable). I have a Photon 2k mono and get good results from that, so the 4k is pretty much a no-brainer. Of course you'll still need PPE (mainly nitrile gloves and safety glasses), a way to clean (usually with isopropyl alcohol) and then cure (with UV light) your prints, and plenty of paper towels on hand for any messes. And you'll need a dedicated work area that isn't where you also do personal hygiene or food preparation, and that curious pets and kids can't freely wander into. And of course you'll need some 3D printable resin. 
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May 14, 2022 02:38
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Do different colors of filament usually print wildly differently? Got white/red/black PETG from the same source at the same time, the black prints basically perfectly at 240C/75C/50%fan with everything else default “Generic PETG” settings in the Sovol slicer. The red and white however, ooze and string like crazy using the same settings. I’m sure a little tweaking will get them up to par, I’m mostly just curious if this is a common thing and I should just get used to setting up multiple profiles for different colors of the same plastics. I think I’ve maybe been a little spoiled by everything I make this thing do “just work”ing since I got it and am getting my first dose of the reality of this hobby  EDIT: Should’ve mentioned they’ve been stored sealed till now with silica etc etc CH Science fucked around with this message at 04:54 on May 14, 2022 |
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May 14, 2022 04:51
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White is pretty much always a bit of a bastard Natural filament is like a sorta milky off-white color, so you throw some red pigment in it, now you've got red filament But for white it has to be bleached or something so it always ends up kind of stringy and brittle and etc Never heard of a red behaving oddly though, unless it's such as a silk.
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May 14, 2022 04:53
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Sockser posted:But for white it has to be bleached or something… Did not know this. Interesting and explains some things
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May 14, 2022 04:59
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Yes, colors impact the printability. Black is usually carbon and behaves well. Natural is always the base resin, which isn't necessarily the behavior you want (black or white may be closer to what you expect vs. natural -- other colors won't be). Colored dyes (including black) are usually 1-2% of the final resin's mass and somehow change the printability by like 8%. This is one of the few places where the genuinely more expensive manufacturers make sense -- all colors of KVP's ABS (sans white) print the same. The white pigment isn't bleaching, it's a lot of titanium dioxide. It's a nonreactive, granular powder that just takes up space in the plastic without contributing anything to the tensile strength or ductility. The prints usually have worse layer bonding and are more brittle as well.
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May 14, 2022 06:23
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Bleaching polymers what? Typically it's titanium dioxide that's being used to get white. At work, our flame retardant compounds are cream colored and opaque. Some 2% of masterbatch, and they're bright white. --e:f,b
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May 14, 2022 07:23
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Look I said “bleached or something” because I knew it was something fucky and I stand by what I said 
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May 14, 2022 07:43
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I can get a pretty nice deal on a new ender 3 v2, is this still the goon recommended entry level but you'll need to do some tinkering and get some upgrades model?
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May 14, 2022 09:55
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Yes!
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May 14, 2022 11:13
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Ughhhhhhhhhh. I rebuilt it. Quiet 12V fans and external electronics case. Shopping List: 1x Noctua NF-F12 PWM 2x Noctua NF-A4x10 PWM 1x 7€ generic Step Down Converter - Only the best DC for my 45€ fans  2x PWM Module  I started with printing the Ender 3 Quiet Control Box https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3689568. I spent 20 minutes to edit the middle layer which was made to hold a RaspberryPi to fit my other electronics. After printing and correcting the x-th hole with a drill I spent 2 more hours editing and printed a working version. Beautiful:  For the new fan shroud I decided on the Ender 3 silent fang noctua V2 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223929  First I tried to leave the fan plugs intact so I could quickly change the fans if they broke. Which is dumb as hell. The cable connection looked like someone forgot a Bratwurst in there. Removed it all again, tried it with some other type of small connector, reduced it to vienna sausage size. So I took it all out again and just hand-twisted the cables together and put some shrink tubing on there. It's below one Watt per fan, I don't even know any more why I tried to make a better connection. Aurium posted:Any controlled fans use the negative on the respective fan header. Always on fans just use ground. Either on the buck regulator itself or elsewhere. All wired up!  That's a lot of wires so I redid the part with the fan on top to make more space for wires.   One of the PWM controllers is for the big fan on top of the case because it is too much fan anyway and I can. The other one I used for light. I took one of the generic ball joints from tinkercad and adjusted a thing here and there to make these:  Installed and wired up they look like tiny spotlights, which amuses me more than it should.  Finally, making new prints and enjoying how silent everything is. But oh no, they all suck!  After playing around with fan voltage (not enough airflow?) and trying other print settings and other filament for ~5 hours I noticed that I may have moved the bowden tube a little bit upwards and filament got stuck in the print head/was flowing out of the top  Having lost all patience a day ago I ripped out the whole hotend and installed a new one. Everything's fine now  Here it is now in all its glory:  If I had to do it all over again I would buy another printer which is silent by default.
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May 14, 2022 12:04
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I'm printing that Lucky 13 figurine, and my Ender 3v2 with stock fans is starting to make some "transformer buzz" noise towards the end of it, after 10ish hours. I'll have to upgrade to Noctua fans, won't I?
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May 14, 2022 13:13
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RabbitWizard posted:If I had to do it all over again I would buy another printer which is silent by default. Not empty quoting. This is legit why I bought my Ender3v2 rather than try to rebuild my CR10. Those parts are going to end up in my CNC router.
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May 14, 2022 14:36
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Rexxed posted:Yes! Great! Been thinking about getting one for about a year now, closely followed the thread for some time but never got around to buying one. Some store has it on sale for 175 now so pulled the trigger on it!
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May 14, 2022 14:46
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LochNessMonster posted:I can get a pretty nice deal on a new ender 3 v2, is this still the goon recommended entry level but you'll need to do some tinkering and get some upgrades model? I think the general consensus is that while you can get a better printer than the Ender 3 v2, it's a whole lot easier to get a worse one. I don't think there are any E3v2 owners in this thread who regret their purchase. Including me!
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May 14, 2022 15:25
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cruft posted:I think the general consensus is that while you can get a better printer than the Ender 3 v2, it's a whole lot easier to get a worse one. I don't think there are any E3v2 owners in this thread who regret their purchase. Including me! Same The standard quality of life upgrades (spring steel bed, yellow bed springs, metal extruder, and Capricorn tube) and my E3v2 is a nearly silent workhorse.
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May 14, 2022 16:26
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So if you’re fine with good, but not amazing models, is PLA fine? Honestly if it doesn’t have godawful layer lines, I’m okay with it as it removes many safety issues with Resin. Plus like $125 out the door at micro center for a mono price one and then $25 for some filament seems like a good investment to see if I like 3D printing and learn on a model that won’t break the bank if I don’t make tons of use of it or upgrade later in the year. That said there is also an Ender 2 Pro for like $25 more. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 19:21 on May 14, 2022 |
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May 14, 2022 18:59
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AlexDeGruven posted:Same Would a kit like this be a decent one? Any other upgrades that would be worth implementing straight away? Stuff like autobed levelling or a steel bedsheet with PEI surface?
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May 14, 2022 19:23
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Vaporware posted:
BTW got a better answer on this, I have been running at a Live Z level around -1.5 to -1.75. That's on the ragged edge of the superPinda's operational measurement range. I backed it off the bed to about 1.5 mm, reset the live Z and now it's beautifully smooth again on the first layer. This was also why I could never properly dial in my smooth sheet, because it's 0.3 mm thicker than satin, and I stupidly assumed I should start at the same Z level as the satin. I never messed with the superpinda because it worked well enough as-is after my initial assembly. I'm going to chalk this up to passing 6 months of break-in, parts are now loose or worn and now the sensor is going out of it's operational range, where it worked fine earlier.
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May 14, 2022 19:42
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YAHOO! It's unnecessary printer mod day! After having my CR10 's bowden tube get cooked and shrank again, I angrily tore the hotend off and started a mod I've been planning to do for a while. It also helped that I decided to update mainsail / moonraker and broke the hell out of everything before realizing I forgot the OS password I made two years ago. Whoops! Guess it goes to show how reliable the Klipper/Moonraker/Mainsail setup is. I started tearing everything to pieces. Unfortunately the sd card for my SKR 1.4 Turbo mainboard is inaccessible without turning the entire desk into a warzone. Enjoy me mess. The wine helped, but the whisky was what finished this job.  My new direct drive extruder setup is starting to come together. Notice anyhting cool about the heat break? Also pictured new belt tensioner.  Knockoff BMG that I've had for about 3 years, a volcano I picked up for 20 bux with heater. ANNNNNND here's some plastic melting out! It extrudes!  And for part cooling, another thing I've wanted to try for years, the berd air pump.  A quick clearance check and super professional wire routing (phew!).  First print, a chameleon for my daughter, Not great, not terrible. I tired 0 retractions and fudging the pressure advance during the print, but still get no material at the start of perimeters. Not sure on that one yet.  Here's what I really wanted to try...   A vase printed with 1.9mm walls at .5mm layer height! Both this and the chameleon were printed on a 1mm nozzle. I kept having to check for kinks in my filament spool so that when it broke going into the ptfe tubing I could feed it by hand until it picked up again. At roughly 20mm3 a second that wasn't too long. I use almost exclusively Jessie PLA, and usually have 0 problems. I found myself doing this about a dozen times this spool of Amiga grey.  So I am really happy how this jumble of parts went together. The water cooled heatbreak is fantastic. I used it in the past on the printrbot in the first pic, I bought another one but managed to put this together without breaking the loop by reusing it. At 300C heaterblock temp, the waterblock is only slightly above room temp, a few degrees at most. And most surprisingly the PLA mount shows no signs of softening. Once I get a new thermistor without PTFE wire insulation, I want to see how high I can take it. I am super happy with how well this feeds, and plan to try it out with a few different nozzle sizes. The next unneccessary printer mod involves using the water loop to cool a SSR so I can do a random spread spectrum / white noise 1kHz-???kHz carrier frequency PWM on the 120V heated MIC-6 bed I have sitting on the shelf. Might do a current feedback loop to tune the duty cycle, dunno. Also daydreaming about a bigger stepper than the 42-40 1A creality number back there. Even with my giant print head the bed is definitely still the accelleration limit. Maybe a ludicrous servo motor instead. The tinkering is why I love doing this, so I'm fine if none of these changes make that big of an improvement.
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May 14, 2022 20:28
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I’m getting this since it’s 159 and the parts in this video to upgrade are really really cheap. Like in surprised how cheap it is. https://youtu.be/iEdCTuK7ZW0
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May 14, 2022 20:40
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LochNessMonster posted:Would a kit like this be a decent one? That looks just about perfect. I don't use auto leveling because my bed came good and flat from the factory. I love my spring steel smooth PEI sheet and I never want to print on anything else ever.
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May 14, 2022 20:57
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Looks like my Ender's PSU fan is a dud. After using it for maybe 30-40 hrs total, I'm afraid to turn it on now. Like it was lubed with sand. I guess silent fans it is. I was gonna wait a bit before I do that, but my hand is being forced. It should make it way more quiet, from what I gather. Even with that said, I'm not regretting the purchase. I probably already put in its original value in upgrades, and am about to drop some more, but i know exactly what I'm getting out of it.
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May 14, 2022 21:39
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