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Yes replace that lovely backstab only thing. If you already have a GFCI as the "first" /downstream outlet on the circuit.. all outlets downstream are protected by the GFCI.. you can verify this by hitting the test / trip button on the GFCI and checking for power at the outlet with a radio / light. (Code says you need a sticker that indicates it's GFC Protected but no Equipment Ground) How to replace a regular outlet with a GFCI: If you have a GFCI to replace they need to go to Line/Load still. There's an EASY way (one hookup) to do this that involves a $20 Non-contact tester (WHICH YOU SHOULD OWN IF YOU ARE TOUCHING LECTTRIC). if you have an NC tester: 1. Turn off power w/ breaker & Verify no power to outlet with tester 2. remove wires from back.. keep in pairs and separate 3. Turn on power 4. use NC tester to determine which black wire lights it up (line) and which one does not light it up (load) 5. Take a picture and write on it on your phone: make a note in a notebook. 6. Hook it up to line/load using the notes from 5 7. turn on power and verify you can now reset the GFCI and have it work. 8. Turn off power If you do not have an NC tester: Step 1 should be go fuckin get one and go to the above instructions.. but hey if you want to continue keep reading. 1. Turn off power w/ breaker & Verify no power to outlet with a radio / light /something 2. remove wires from back.. keep in pairs and separate 3. make an assumption on which is line (powers the outlet) and which is load (powers the next outlet). Note you have a 50% chance here.. and it'll 100% be wrong at first. 4. Hook up the GFCI 5. Make note of how you currently hooked it up 6. Turn on power Try and reset it (it should stay "on" if it's hooked up right. If it does not.. goto 1 but reverse the location of the pairs 7. Turn off power 8. Struggle to put the wires back into the box with your newly larger outlet. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 13:13 on May 13, 2022 |
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May 13, 2022 13:08
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tater_salad posted:Yes replace that lovely backstab only thing. the way that I found out that outlet was GFCI protected (I assumed it was not which was why I was replacing it) was when the inspector used a GFCI tester on an exterior outlet and we had to hunt for the GFCI outlet that got tripped. I do have a tester and thanks for instructions! Those wires are pretty firmly in the old one. Is there an easy way to release them or should I just cut them?
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May 13, 2022 17:49
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:the way that I found out that outlet was GFCI protected (I assumed it was not which was why I was replacing it) was when the inspector used a GFCI tester on an exterior outlet and we had to hunt for the GFCI outlet that got tripped. I do have a tester and thanks for instructions! Those wires are pretty firmly in the old one. Is there an easy way to release them or should I just cut them? Cut them and strip fresh wire. Do this in all cases, even when you're replacing an outlet where the wire was looped around a screw terminal. You want to get a fresh, unoxidized copper surface to mate with the contacts on the new outlet.
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May 13, 2022 17:56
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Motronic posted:YES.
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May 13, 2022 17:59
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Flipperwaldt posted:Thanks. It turned out it was just the CO alarm that was expired, the others are supposed to be still good until 2025. Ordered a replacement. 
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May 13, 2022 18:28
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Leperflesh posted:Cut them and strip fresh wire. Do this in all cases, even when you're replacing an outlet where the wire was looped around a screw terminal. You want to get a fresh, unoxidized copper surface to mate with the contacts on the new outlet. will do. thanks all!
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May 13, 2022 23:35
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Borrowing my parents pressure washer. Long story short, it wouldn't start and with the help of lots of Youtube videos I found the cause was a cracked rocker arm and that part cracked because the exhaust valve it was activating was stuck. Basically the problem in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEblVBYI1FM I managed to unstick the valve, replaced the rocker arm and it started right up. However, after 5 mins of spraying it started running rough and although I haven't pulled it back apart yet my hunch is that the valve is getting sticky again. Any idea what would cause a valve like this to stick? My hunch was that it was low on oil, but I checked it and there was plenty of oil and the oil had been changed immediately before I borrowed it. If anything it might have too much oil. Would that possibly cause that issue? Any ideas on how I could resolve the issue?
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May 14, 2022 04:47
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Make / model? Year? Picture? I love pictures. Is the arm or bearing or valve or something gummed up? If it has too much oil that can do it. If it's gummed up hit it with degreaser or something and wipe clean. Put new correct lube on it and again wipe gently - often those parts just need a sheen of oil.
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May 14, 2022 05:41
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I need some help IDing these respirator filters:  They have a circular type of mating surface and don't accept the 3M ones commonly found at Home Depot. Sticker on old filter reads "GMA / OV". Respirator brand is "MSA". Or maybe I should just get a new respirator whose filters aren't so annoyingly difficult to find
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May 14, 2022 18:14
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https://streamable.com/dw3yx6 Bunch of cunts who did the plumbing or tiling or whatever in this apartment I'm renting and just moved into. Everything is new and has a 'hotel' feel to it where it looks expensive, but I'm quickly realising it was done by the lowest bidder and they hired a bunch of absolute wankers. Both bathrooms have this same issue, whereby there's a bunch of rubble and crumbled cement clogging up the drains. Whenever I shower, I end up standing in a puddle because it just can't drain quickly enough due to all the poo poo clogging up the drains. Is there a way I can remove this drain and get all these pieces of rock out? I can't unscrew it, and it seems to be riveted in place. No point complaining, as owner won't give a drat. One piece of rock is preventing the drain from closing (it's the type of drain that is on a spring, so when water comes in from above, it lowers, letting the water pass. When water stops coming from above, it closes and seals, preventing gases from escaping into the bathroom). I'm fed up of the slow draining in the showers, I just cleaned a wet room and because the water drains so slowly, it was a nightmare getting all the soap and stuff down the drain, it just kept sloshing about everywhere. The master bathroom isn't leveled properly either, so there's a corner farthest away from the drain that doesn't slope, meaning there's always a puddle of water and I just know scum or algae or whatever is gonna grow.
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May 15, 2022 17:32
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So I am going to finish fencing in my yard over the summer and have a questions about fence posts. My plan is to use ground contact rated 4x4 pressure treated lumber. Talk to me about setting posts. I live in Georgia so the frost line is somewhere between 0 and 6 inches. I see everywhere that it’s 1/3 post height underground and set. My question is how to set. Do I always use concrete? Is there an alternative? Can I just use ground so when it inevitably rots so it’s easier to replace?
KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 18:22 on May 15, 2022 |
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May 15, 2022 18:10
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KKKLIP ART posted:So I am going to finish fencing in my yard over the summer and have a questions about fence posts. My plan is to use ground contact rated 4x4 pressure treated lumber. Talk to me about setting posts. I live in Georgia so the frost line is somewhere between 0 and 6 inches. I see everywhere that it’s 1/3 post height underground and set. My question is how to set. Do I always use concrete? Is there an alternative? Can I just use ground so when it inevitably rots so it’s easier to replace? The concrete makes the fence post a lot more stable. I would expect that posts just set in the ground would be leaning in very short order. Setting in concrete is pretty easy though. Just dump the concrete into the hole you dug, toss a bucket of water in, and you're done. You don't need to thoroughly mix the concrete mix and water, because you don't need a lot of strength/cohesion. I've heard of people not even bothering with the water, just counting on ambient moisture / rainfall to do it for them.
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May 15, 2022 19:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The concrete makes the fence post a lot more stable. I would expect that posts just set in the ground would be leaning in very short order. So do t be a lazy rear end and just do it the right way and worry about heaving the concrete lump out at a later date? Makes sense. Thanks! E: as a followup, should I put gravel under the concrete? I don't think I need to in my area, but some places say to do that. We get clay so I think that it would end up just sort of making a pool and not really helping drainage. KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 20:13 on May 15, 2022 |
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May 15, 2022 19:45
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We bought this house a few years ago and I'm finally getting to some low priority projects like replacing one of the ugly rear end old ceiling fans. I took the old one down and found that the bracket for the new fan didn't line up with the holes on the mounting plate attached to the electrical box. I cut away enough of the drywall to get the whole box out and it's only attachment point is that metal things going across that doesn't appear to actually attach to a joist or anything solid but I can't tell for sure, it feels like it's just resting on the surrounding drywall. I've never seen something like this, but clearly it worked because of how long the fan had been mounted without failing. Would this be safe to mount a new fan that weighs 17lbs to?  
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May 15, 2022 21:10
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That's a (old school) fan box. So yes, assuming it was properly installed to begin with, and it sounds like it was, you should be totally fine. I'm gonna guess you have both a switch loop and a downstream circuit in there. Hope you kept track of what was connected to what.
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May 15, 2022 21:20
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Motronic posted:That's a (old school) fan box. So yes, assuming it was properly installed to begin with, and it sounds like it was, you should be totally fine. Awesome, thanks! Yeah I labeled everything before I took it out.
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May 15, 2022 21:25
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KKKLIP ART posted:So do t be a lazy rear end and just do it the right way and worry about heaving the concrete lump out at a later date? Makes sense. Thanks! That being said, it's a cheap bit of insurance, and I can't imagine it making things worse, so you may as well do it As has been mentioned, grab some quick set concrete that can be mixed in the hole. The stuff I just used, you fill the hole 1/3rd of the way with water, then start dumping in concrete. I worked the concrete as I poured, but supposedly you don't need to. It was a much nicer experience than last time I set a fence, where I mixed all the concrete in a tub and shoveled it in.
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May 15, 2022 22:47
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KKKLIP ART posted:So I am going to finish fencing in my yard over the summer and have a questions about fence posts. My plan is to use ground contact rated 4x4 pressure treated lumber. Talk to me about setting posts. I live in Georgia so the frost line is somewhere between 0 and 6 inches. I see everywhere that it’s 1/3 post height underground and set. My question is how to set. Do I always use concrete? Is there an alternative? Can I just use ground so when it inevitably rots so it’s easier to replace? Could use metal poles instead of wood, only a few dollars more per pole (at least when I replaced a few last year), and don't have to worry about rotting/splitting etc. (It's actually code locally now, due to durability afaik)
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May 16, 2022 03:13
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Rakeris posted:Could use metal poles instead of wood, only a few dollars more per pole (at least when I replaced a few last year), and don't have to worry about rotting/splitting etc. (It's actually code locally now, due to durability afaik) yes, metal posts or if you are set on wood you can use the fence post brackets that fasten to a concrete slab. protects the wooden posts a bit better and allows for easier replacement. wood post set in concrete ought to be good for 10-15 years but replacing those footers is a major hassle so consider how long you plan on living there if you do go with the fence post brackets you'll need a hammer drill or roto-hammer so consider that, as well as the cost of the brackets ($~30 apiece) 
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May 16, 2022 15:19
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:yes, metal posts or if you are set on wood you can use the fence post brackets that fasten to a concrete slab. protects the wooden posts a bit better and allows for easier replacement. wood post set in concrete ought to be good for 10-15 years but replacing those footers is a major hassle so consider how long you plan on living there I forgot about brackets; good suggestion. One option with those is to use brackets that embed into the still-wet concrete. Requires a bit more work during the pouring phase, but you don't need a fancy drill.
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May 16, 2022 15:54
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what are these things called? It looks like they are meant to grab each other when the doors closed to keep them aligned, but I don't think they are really doing that (there is one on each door) maybe the other one is aligned fine, because you can see where it made a permanent mark
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May 16, 2022 17:47
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Assuming these are bifold doors, searching "bifold door aligner" seems to get the proper results
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May 16, 2022 18:40
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thanks, looks like step 8 is what i want. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/doors/21016678/how-to-install-bifold-doors another small pic, this is my patio door handle. when you pull up on the handle all the way, three locks activate, one on the bottom, one on the center, and one on the right however I have no idea what the lock below the handle is supposed to do. it makes a clear noise like something is moving when turned, but nothing comes out from the door like those three locks do
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May 16, 2022 18:45
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Guyver posted:A few quick questions. My oven won't heat up. I checked the element and it looks fine and so do the wires but there's a little scorch mark around a relay on the circuit board. Replaced the relay with one off eBay and the oven works again. There was a big crator around one pin where the power in wire connects but I just filled it in with solder and it works. Just cooked a frozen pizza.
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May 17, 2022 01:04
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Guyver posted:Replaced the relay with one off eBay and the oven works again. hell yeah way to go goon 
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May 17, 2022 12:05
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would you start with sandpaper for the really noticeable scratches on a cultured marble vanity top? if so any grit recommendations?
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May 17, 2022 20:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I forgot about brackets; good suggestion. One option with those is to use brackets that embed into the still-wet concrete. Requires a bit more work during the pouring phase, but you don't need a fancy drill. Just a heads up with those brackets: they typically say they are not for fences over 4', fences that will need to resist wind loads, or they require lateral restraint. I think this is the specific bracket shown: https://www.strongtie.com/fences_decksandfences/ez_base/p/e-z-base and it says quote:Post bases do not provide adequate resistance to prevent rotation about the base and therefore are not recommended for non-top-supported installations such as fences or unbraced carports I don't see it often, but I have seen 6' fences with these fail, typically when there are long, straight spans. If you live where it's very windy, you may want to look carefully at their cut sheets. I have no idea why they advertise it for fences and then say it's not for fences ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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May 18, 2022 04:27
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Sorry if it’s the wrong place to ask, but is there a thread on solar panels? We’re considering getting solar shingles when we replace our roof, but the quote we’ve gotten for the project seems exorbitant compared to what the greater Internet told us to expect. I’m just curious if anyone else went through the process and could tell us what to consider or watch out for.
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May 18, 2022 15:54
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Almost Smart posted:Sorry if it’s the wrong place to ask, but is there a thread on solar panels? We’re considering getting solar shingles when we replace our roof, but the quote we’ve gotten for the project seems exorbitant compared to what the greater Internet told us to expect. I’m just curious if anyone else went through the process and could tell us what to consider or watch out for. Is there another company offering them than tesla? Because the greatest risk is tesla. You simply shouldn't give them money. That being said what are the quotes you're being given for what kind of unit and how many squares is your roof? What is a roof replacement quote with whatever material you currently have? Have you gotten any panel quotes?
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May 18, 2022 16:20
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H110Hawk posted:Is there another company offering them than tesla? Because the greatest risk is tesla. You simply shouldn't give them money. Yeah, Tesla is the only game in town for solar shingles unfortunately. It’s a two-story house with a roof around 2000 square feet, maybe a bit less. I was expecting it to cost around $35 per square foot at the high end (so ~$70k before accounting for subsidies), but the roofing guy said it would be around $100-120k, which is a complete non-starter. We need something like solar shingles or something that can lay flat on top of conventional shingles and blend in with them since we have a real butt of an HOA to deal with.
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May 18, 2022 16:27
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Almost Smart posted:Yeah, Tesla is the only game in town for solar shingles unfortunately. It’s a two-story house with a roof around 2000 square feet, maybe a bit less. I was expecting it to cost around $35 per square foot at the high end (so ~$70k before accounting for subsidies), but the roofing guy said it would be around $100-120k, which is a complete non-starter. We need something like solar shingles or something that can lay flat on top of conventional shingles and blend in with them since we have a real butt of an HOA to deal with. Don't worry even after you give them the deposit the job will be a non-starter too. You really should not replace your roof at a huge premium from a company that famously scorns customer support. Like, it's a point of pride to them to leave their customers in limbo. Please by all means get some panels and a new roof slapped up there for probably $35k total. Just saw your hoa issue - which state are you in? Are you literally the first person to want solar in your hoa? Don't take my word for it either - Google can help here. The fact that they're giving you a bid at all is disingenuous at best. https://www.google.com/search?q=solar%20shingles%20delays H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:36 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 16:33
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Almost Smart posted:Yeah, Tesla is the only game in town for solar shingles unfortunately. It’s a two-story house with a roof around 2000 square feet, maybe a bit less. I was expecting it to cost around $35 per square foot at the high end (so ~$70k before accounting for subsidies), but the roofing guy said it would be around $100-120k, which is a complete non-starter. We need something like solar shingles or something that can lay flat on top of conventional shingles and blend in with them since we have a real butt of an HOA to deal with. SunPower has flat black architectural panels that can be installed flush, I'd find the local dealer for them and see if those might be acceptable. https://sunpower.maxeon.com/int/solar-panel-products/performance-solar-panels
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May 18, 2022 16:41
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God I loving hate HOAs and I'm so glad I don't live in one
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May 18, 2022 16:51
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Thanks for the advice. I’ll give those sunpower people a call as it looks like they do service my area.
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May 18, 2022 17:33
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Definitely check your local laws too. Arizona has surprisingly aggressive state laws that prohibit HOAs from banning solar panels, and also bans any HOA restrictions on solar panels that would "prevent installation, impair function, restrict its use, or adversely affect cost or efficiency". I think it basically boils down to all an HOA can do here about solar is make you do trivial things like paint conduit to blend in. Requiring solar shingles, or possibly even requiring flush-mount panels if they cost more than traditional panels, wouldn't be enforceable here.
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May 18, 2022 21:57
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We actually met with the Tesla installer for a formal estimate a little earlier this evening since we had already arranged it weeks ago… $145,000 gently caress my rear end. No wonder Elon’s got billions. That’s like putting another house on top of my house.
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May 18, 2022 23:49
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Xenix posted:Just a heads up with those brackets: they typically say they are not for fences over 4', fences that will need to resist wind loads, or they require lateral restraint. I think this is the specific bracket shown: https://www.strongtie.com/fences_decksandfences/ez_base/p/e-z-base and it says ha wow a fencing guy was telling me that the brackets are becoming code. wonder if he was talking about a different bracket type but everyone uses simpson so idk
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May 19, 2022 12:19
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:ha wow a fencing guy was telling me that the brackets are becoming code. wonder if he was talking about a different bracket type but everyone uses simpson so idk I don't want to turn anyone off using them, since I don't really do fences. However, I see the issue come up occasionally in the construction defect stuff I'm involved in. Just be aware of the manufacturers recommendations. I think the last time I saw a failure of brackets like this, it was (mostly) due to the fence being on a narrow curb without enough concrete cover over the embedded bracket or fastener.
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May 19, 2022 17:18
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Cross-posting from plumbing: Any thoughts on un-stucking a water heater anode that's seized in? I can't seem to break it loose with an 18" bar, but I'm reluctant to put an impact driver on it.
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May 19, 2022 21:16
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Bad Munki posted:Cross-posting from plumbing: Not at all a plumbing expert (or even really all that knowledgable) but I would think you'd have to chip away at all the poo poo attached to the edge in order to get it off. Needs more leverage than one point. 
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May 19, 2022 21:19
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