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Thanks for the suggestion, I do have some gorilla glue so I’m gonna try that first. Quick question I’m switching the nozzle while building my ender 3 V2. Now I haven’t run anything through it or even turned it on do I have to still do the warming up stage? The reason I ask is no pla had been run through or anything. Currently I’m working on that cursed belt. lol
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May 20, 2022 21:10
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks for the suggestion, I do have some gorilla glue so I’m gonna try that first. yes, metal expands and contracts as it heats and cools. the material is irrelevant.
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May 20, 2022 21:18
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Deviant posted:yes, metal expands and contracts as it heats and cools. the material is irrelevant. Okay cool. Well I'm happy I asked first.  Same I assume applies to waiting to do the auto level until I at least power it on and test it, right? Though this is more due to having to do a firmware update.
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May 20, 2022 21:51
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The glue stuff is good to know for these speaker enclosures I am printing. What is the most beginner friendly CAD program? I want to build enclosures and it'd be nice if there is like a "drag and drop screw well" system.
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May 20, 2022 22:20
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Is there anything I need to be worried about printing PETG on a PEI textured flexible bed? I read something that made it sound like it was going to rip my bed apart trying to take pieces off.
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May 20, 2022 23:23
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Kitty Hands?  Well that's just dumb and I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble....  OK I take it back you need this.
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May 20, 2022 23:24
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Marsupial Ape posted:The glue stuff is good to know for these speaker enclosures I am printing. I usually steer people to Tinkercad which has a great tutorial and good functionality, and is very visual and accessible.
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May 21, 2022 01:15
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Right now, I'm trying to figure out how to get this parametric tool box sized right with appropriate holes to accept a couple 2 inch speakers and the connections for the bluetooth amp.
Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 02:16 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 02:13
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Marsupial Ape posted:The glue stuff is good to know for these speaker enclosures I am printing. A lot of that depends on what you’re looking for - imo SOLIDWORKS has the best hole and stud tools. You can get a Makers version for $10/mo, but this version is currently pretty rife with usability issues. This is parametric solid modeling CAD, which puts it in the same family as Fusion 360, OnShape, and NX (all of which have free editions). This type of software is more for engineering projects. On the sculptural side, for hobbyist stuff I think Blender and Zbrush are the big ones. You’d use those for figurines and the like for the most part. A lot of it depends on how involved you want to get in your projects, too. I’m a SOLIDWORKS professional day in and day out for work, so it’s nice having the Makers edition for my personal projects. Since I’m not building airplanes or nuclear reactors, though, the free versions of Fusion or OnShape would do fine (save for my machining projects). If you intend to get into CNC stuff later on, it’s probably best to work with SOLIDWORKS or Fusion since they come with CAM built in.
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May 21, 2022 02:21
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NewFatMike posted:imo SOLIDWORKS has the best hole and stud tools. Show me your hole wizard 
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May 21, 2022 02:25
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Marsupial Ape posted:Right now, I'm trying to figure out how to get this parametric tool box sized right with appropriate holes to accept a couple 2 inch speakers and the connections for the bluetooth amp. The creator uploaded fusion 360 files, so there's your answer (I'm biased because I use fusion 360)
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May 21, 2022 04:03
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Somebody suggest me a TPU (black color maybe?) I can use for some custom RC car tires, that I can order on amazonAcid Reflux posted:I've probably got four different brands on six different printers, and they all work identically. These are the most recent ones in my Amazon history: Cool, thanks!
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May 21, 2022 05:26
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cruft posted:Is there anything I need to be worried about printing PETG on a PEI textured flexible bed? I read something that made it sound like it was going to rip my bed apart trying to take pieces off.  Also, 230° PET made tiny bubbles appear on my sheet but I didn't notice any negative influence from them. As I'm not sure in the quality difference of PEI beds and all the bad stuff that can happen, just print a testcube in a corner but you should be fine.
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May 21, 2022 10:35
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cruft posted:Is there anything I need to be worried about printing PETG on a PEI textured flexible bed? I read something that made it sound like it was going to rip my bed apart trying to take pieces off. The textured sheet is specifically for PETG and Flex filaments. The Smooth sheet is the one where you have to worry about it bonding to the sheet if your nozzle height is too close to the bed.
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May 21, 2022 11:38
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Re: glue chat for PLA, I use this no-name brand epoxy to join stuff together. Where there's a decent surface area it seems to bond really well, and it takes a long time to cure so it's easy to work. I assume that other slow-setting 2-part epoxies might also work, if you're not in a hurry. Dia de Pikachutos fucked around with this message at 12:27 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 12:25
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Hadlock posted:Somebody suggest me a TPU (black color maybe?) I can use for some custom RC car tires, that I can order on amazon I bought a bunch of Amazon basics TPU in black for mask ear savers during the early days of the pandemic. It printed fine.
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May 21, 2022 12:36
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Spent about 6 hours building the Ender 3 V2 only to discover the it has the Z axis alignment issue, reinstalling the motor to ensure no gap, and dealing with the glass getting super scuffed (due to the X axis limiter needing to be placed higher then the instructions say)…yeah it’s going back to the store and I might just get a resin…but I like a large build area…but no lines would be cool. In short not how I wanted to spend my Friday evening lol Has anyone used these air purifiers before? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086277CNQ?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_0587B8NGXDZFJCYMAH50 After reading about Resin disposal. It really doesn’t seem as problematic as I thought it was; I didn’t realize that once you’re done curing the water after you’re finished you can just pour it down the drain or in my case the wash basin in my laundry room. I was under the impression was significantly more complicated and dangerous. https://support.formlabs.com/s/arti...sehold%20waste. I think I’m gonna go with a resin printer and cure and wash station. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 18:43 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 16:02
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Is this where I also ask questions about modeling? The 3D kind not the fashion kind.
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May 21, 2022 22:06
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Good Will Hrunting posted:Is this where I also ask questions about modeling? The 3D kind not the fashion kind. The hole wizard thread is over here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532 There might be a blender/maya-specific thread but if there is I don't know about it
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May 21, 2022 22:19
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Hadlock posted:The hole wizard thread is over here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532 Thank you, Hadlock. I have a pretty general question so I'll try there.
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May 21, 2022 22:22
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That thread has some alarmingly good/helpful people, good luck!
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May 21, 2022 22:26
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The Bowden tube coupling on my Ender 3’s cold end isn’t gripping the tube anymore. Should I just grab the Creality replacement from microcenter, or is there a better option out there?
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May 22, 2022 02:42
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Marshal Prolapse posted:
You can save a lot of money making a wash and cure station on your own. My curing station is a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot with reflective foil and LED light strips stuck to the inside. A washing station can be a glass jar with a laboratory magnetic fluid stirrer. All in all like a third the price and much more robust and easier to fix/replace if something breaks.
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May 22, 2022 02:43
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I'm reading up on printing minifigs for table top gaming. Any general advice I should know?
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May 22, 2022 03:20
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Changed resin from Anycubic to SiryaraTech and still getting print failures, looks like my tests were exposure, so I increased the power level of the Mono 4k printer, and getting still about 2.8 success out of 6 on the plate with the other half sticking to the fep after unloading a bit onto the build plate (the bottom of the print was attached, so it's either that I need to increase the power, or likely I still need to fiddle with the exposure settings, probably increasing them slightly
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May 22, 2022 04:50
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cruft posted:Sounds like it's multimeter time. I wound up taking the motherboard cover off and giving all of the cables a good solid push in; didn't feel anything give but it's back to printing (PLA) now. While I had the printer out I finally got around to taking the LCD/control knob off the printer itself; have been meaning to mount it external to the Lack enclosure for a while. Don't currently have a means to do so, so going to swap over to my orange PLA (accent colour I went with my for enclosure) and see if I can knock one out over the next few days. It'd be nice to not have to open the enclosure to make adjustments. Looking at Cura, I'm beginning to suspect my recent problems with ABS may have been simply letting my temperature settings get changed and not changing them back...  Hoping so, an easy fix would be nice. ToxicFrog posted:As for the security camera idea, maybe look into Octoprint? It lets you run a 3d print server on a computer (a $15 Pi Zero 2 W is sufficient) plugged into the printer; most slicers can upload print jobs to it directly (rather than needing the printer to be plugged into the computer you're slicing on, or needing you to carry around a USB key or SD card), and if you plug a USB camera into it you can watch the printer through the web interface (and record timelapses of your prints, if you're into that). And since it's controlling the print, that also means you can stop the print from the web interface if you see things going wrong. I haven't gotten around to setting mine up yet, but the fact you can run Octoprint on an old Android phone (sparing yourself an RPi + camera) seems to be very much undersold.
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May 22, 2022 05:23
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Wow glue sticks are alarmingly effective Can't believe I wasted a year struggling with bed adhesion
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May 22, 2022 08:08
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Toebone posted:The Bowden tube coupling on my Ender 3’s cold end isn’t gripping the tube anymore. Should I just grab the Creality replacement from microcenter, or is there a better option out there? Any generic PC4-M10 fitting will work. I bought these, for example (the other type is PC4-M6 and will fit the hotend) : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33026236542.html I planned to use some of them to build a drybox. Didn't do it yet because filament is drawing water way slower than the internet would make you believe, so now it's a lifetime supply.
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May 22, 2022 09:00
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Is eSun PLA+ a decent brand?
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May 22, 2022 17:34
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LochNessMonster posted:Is eSun PLA+ a decent brand? I can vouch for eSun as their ABS+ is great
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May 22, 2022 17:54
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I've gone through dozens of rolls of eSun PLA+ over the past few years and have always been super happy with it. One of the few filaments that I feel paying the premium for is actually worth it over the cheaper stuff.
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May 22, 2022 18:23
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Lots of good reports on the esun pla+. I have like 9 rolls of it and my printer has yet to ship. So I may be biased. Creality3Dofficial has the S1 on sale at $350 and I really really am tempted to jump on it, the S1 pro as low as $470, but not in stock yet (in stock in Asia, but then it's $80 to ship it). The biggest difference is the all metal hot end. I don't really know how much I'll be printing in ABS or nylon to need it, but I don't really want to give it up. Waited this long, I guess. e: nm. My pro apparently shipped before I could make a decision. Ill live with the pro. Such a hardship... ilkhan fucked around with this message at 15:58 on May 23, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 18:26
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bird food bathtub posted:You can save a lot of money making a wash and cure station on your own. My curing station is a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot with reflective foil and LED light strips stuck to the inside. A washing station can be a glass jar with a laboratory magnetic fluid stirrer. All in all like a third the price and much more robust and easier to fix/replace if something breaks. You have far more confident in my competence then I do. Honestly I may just be calling them a Mulligan on the whole thing. It’s trying to figure out the ventilation system that keeps giving me hang ups.
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May 22, 2022 18:47
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Marshal Prolapse posted:You have far more confident in my competence then I do. Honestly I may just be calling them a Mulligan on the whole thing. It’s trying to figure out the ventilation system that keeps giving me hang ups. Do you know how to operate a saw and a hammer? I took scrap 2x4s and foil backed foam insulation and made a box, gorilla glue to hold the foam in place. Dryer vent hose and an inline blower for ventilation. Looks like rear end but whatever. Still prints my calibration tests great so far without complaints about the smell.
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May 22, 2022 19:51
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bird food bathtub posted:You can save a lot of money making a wash and cure station on your own. My curing station is a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot with reflective foil and LED light strips stuck to the inside. A washing station can be a glass jar with a laboratory magnetic fluid stirrer. All in all like a third the price and much more robust and easier to fix/replace if something breaks. Honestly, I rolled my own washing/curing setup like you described and used it for 6 months before I got a Wash/Cure, and I regret not buying it right off the get-go. The money you save isn't actually much, if you don't have a strong UV LED source and a lab stirrer and the other specialized bits the total cost comes close to a basic wash/cure unit, and the little quality-of-life benefits of the specialized units are actually pretty good. The large latching wash tubs with wire baskets / a hanger for your entire build plate go a long way to minimize any contact with resin or saturated alcohol, and the stirring implementation is dramatically better than a simple lab mixer + magnetic bar in several ways- the stirring bar integrated into the base of the tub beneath the basket never strikes the models in the wash and is basically maintenance free, and the reversing direction of the mixing bar is actually significant for getting alcohol flow through weird little crevices that a single mixing direction can miss. Also, the large tubs are ideal for a multi-wash cleaning process like I use, swapping them on and off the unit base + moving the baskets through the wash is very painless and much cleaner + faster than fishing around for loose parts in a Tupperware container. Also curing really should make use of a turntable at bare minimum, I got uneven results curing without one, and getting a standalone turntable for a DIY setup is another $20 closer to the price for a wash/cure unit. If wash/cures were $500 i'd agree, but you probably save less than 50 bucks DIYing it, i think my setup ended up maybe $20 cheaper with the addition of the turntable and other quality-of-life things. it just doesn't make much sense for how much it streamlines the messiest and most health-issue-causing step of the entire resin printing process. I get not starting out with one immediately, but if the hobby sticks and you keep at it, it's a no-brainer first process upgrade, esp at the cost of "maybe two or three bottles of resin". e: i will acknowledge that replacing parts like wash tubs is significantly more expensive than any old sealing tub, the latch on one of mine cracked off so it doesn't seal as well as it ought to, and a new tub is like $35ish on Amazon. That's really the only maintenance issue that's cropped up for me over the course of many uses, though. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:33 on May 22, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 21:30
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e: nm
ilkhan fucked around with this message at 15:57 on May 23, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 22:05
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bird food bathtub posted:You can save a lot of money making a wash and cure station on your own. My curing station is a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot with reflective foil and LED light strips stuck to the inside. A washing station can be a glass jar with a laboratory magnetic fluid stirrer. All in all like a third the price and much more robust and easier to fix/replace if something breaks. It's honestly not worth it. I mean, I DIY stuff when I can, but ended up buying the combo and it's just so much easier. I never have to touch 'live' resin.
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May 22, 2022 22:26
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OK so this may be a dumb question, but I was wondering if you already have a set up for your dryer going outside via duct, can I just use a Y splitter and send my poo poo out through that way too? My biggest concern is somehow something making its (and not filtering out) way back into the dryer and I’m pretty sure my wife would kill me if the clothes smelled like resin. Thanks thing is if I ever move it’s just some duct to replace. I know this is being somewhat anal, but I already had cancer, and I really don’t want it again.
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May 22, 2022 23:28
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Marshal Prolapse posted:OK so this may be a dumb question, but I was wondering if you already have a set up for your dryer going outside via duct, can I just use a Y splitter and send my poo poo out through that way too? No, you can't do that per code. Each appliance will vent back towards the other one so not only will your clothes smell like resin, but your resin thingy will fill up with lint. Also don't try tying into a gas furnace exhaust or fireplace chimney for the same, but deadlier, reasons.
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May 23, 2022 00:33
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SpartanIvy posted:No, you can't do that per code. Each appliance will vent back towards the other one so not only will your clothes smell like resin, but your resin thingy will fill up with lint. Yep I figured there wasn’t a way to prevent blow back, but I just wanted to confirm it. Also God I wouldn’t even dream of trying those other two things. That is goddamn terrifying to think that people did those. I mean my idea was dumb too but not that dumb.
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May 23, 2022 00:47
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