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The Anime Liker posted:Anyways, op, don't listen to any of these freaks. They're extremely mentally ill and are horrible teachers. The basic difference between this and the posts from "bad teachers" is that they know what they are talking about and you don't. Sorry you had to find out this way (I'm not sorry, your posts are bad and you should feel bad). 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 05:09 on May 24, 2022 |
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May 24, 2022 05:02
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 17:57 |
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The Anime Liker posted:Show me what you think a kit lens and a lightbox are, because quick mental math tells me about 2.5-3 feet to get a white void backdrop which is exactly the precise point of those little popup lightboxes. Double posting because I'm a commercial product photographer and your t-shirt look like a dish rag. This is an okay photo for a very very new beginner. If you want someone to pay you actual money for your product photography you're going to need to get better at photography though. So I suggest that you practice. Also shoot wider. If I delivered this shot to somebody they'd laugh at me and ask for their money back. It's probably fine for your Etsy store though. Assuming you don't want to actually sell any products.
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May 24, 2022 05:14
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xzzy posted:f/8 and be there but actually f/11 because I don't trust my AF. This is the best post in the last couple pages tbh. Along with Megabound’s advice to shoot aperture priority and see how the settings and images change. That’s a good way to get comfortable with the three main elements and also what different aperture settings (wide open vs stopped down) will do.
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May 24, 2022 05:24
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The Anime Liker posted:No sweat. I'll pull one when I get home. lol DOF is shorter at closer object distances
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May 24, 2022 05:33
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The idea of stopping down a lens is abhorrent to me. Are you not using diffraction-limited optics and focus stacking? 3 feet of working distance? What are these, binoculars??
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May 24, 2022 05:42
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May 24, 2022 06:08
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Current uh, disagreement aside, how do you guys approach product photography? Are there any worthwhile guides on how to do it as a total beginner to this stuff? I'm trying to learn more about shooting products, maybe with a view to being paid to do so eventually.
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May 24, 2022 06:42
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So to simulate a lightbox and hopefully get the experts to understand not everyone has a professional set up and I was answering a question for someone using basic gear, here's a 5.6 on a 30mm A 5.6 on a kit lens  And using my shittiest lights on my shoddiest backdrop to get that authentic cheap amazon lightbox feel for shooting for an etsy store:  Then you spend 5 seconds in the free to use photo app on your phone app to get the shadows out of that inconvenient spot because the $2 overhead led light in your lightbox isn't a professional set up. So if a beginner asks how to do a lightbox with a kit lens, this is the basic whiteout amazon/etsy look they're looking for. For more expert techniques, consult the professional below who can't read. 8th-snype posted:This is an okay photo for a very very new beginner. If you want someone to pay you actual money for your product photography you're going to need to get better at photography though. So I suggest that you practice. drat. If only we were talking about someone doing their first product photo using a kit lens that doesn't shoot wider. Boy is there egg on my face now. I guess disregard me. The answer for "how do I take my first photo with the equipment I own" is "be an experienced professional with different equipment". Sage advice. Very sane. Excellent teaching. The Anime Liker fucked around with this message at 06:56 on May 24, 2022 |
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May 24, 2022 06:52
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*throwing a college calculus book at a 5 year old* loving LEARN BASIC MATH YOU IDIOT
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May 24, 2022 06:54
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Lol his fingers are out of focus
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May 24, 2022 06:56
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Megabound posted:Lol his fingers are out of focus And so is the little sign
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May 24, 2022 07:00
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You're on a tripod, you can stop down bro
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May 24, 2022 07:05
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The Anime Liker posted:So to simulate a lightbox and hopefully get the experts to understand not everyone has a professional set up and I was answering a question for someone using basic gear, here's a 5.6 on a 30mm "Doesn't shoot wider" Mfer did I say zoom wider? Back away from the subject. You don't understand perspective and you think that you are qualified to talk poo poo? Btw those pics also suck, sorry you had to find out this way.
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May 24, 2022 07:18
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Megabound posted:You're on a tripod, you can stop down bro Yes. I can. I have a whole universe of equipment that lets me do it. I can go up to 1.4 for flat surfaces like stickers and flat packaged cookies, or I can go down to 11 for something 3 dimensional. And I have (admittedly cheap) studio lights and my beloved corn lamp so I can do something really crazy like long exposures with an f/24. With all sorts of fun backdrops and props like shiny rocks and seaglass for jewelry, and fresh veggies for food, maybe even get a bit jaunty and work in a picnic basket for that local winery. I can go nuts with wide angle, telephoto, macro... The world is my oyster. But that doesn't change anything for someone who doesn't have those options. And they have, say, a kit lens and a light box.
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May 24, 2022 07:25
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Show me a kit lens that can't stop down. Shooting at full open and having your subject out of focus is the exact wrong thing to do, even if you only have a kit lens and a home made light box. Shooting at the aperture where your subject is in full focus and having to do a little editing on the back end is still achievable for someone who is new to the game! Your education stopped at the least you could do, instead of explaining how aperture effects depth of field you just said "Shoot wide open and ignore the results, you don't need to know anything else". A good teacher would help the student make better decisions in their photography, and how to assess the output to define better input, not fob them off with a poorly explained golden rule and let them fail.
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May 24, 2022 07:34
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8th-snype posted:"Doesn't shoot wider" Sorry, I thought you were talking about aperture. It's tough to keep track of who said what dumb thing because they didn't read the question.
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May 24, 2022 07:36
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The Anime Liker posted:Sorry, I thought you were talking about aperture. It's tough to keep track of who said what dumb thing because they didn't read the question. "Thought" is doing a lot of work in this post.
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May 24, 2022 07:38
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Now I think you should back away from the camera and the keyboard. Probably in that order too.
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May 24, 2022 07:41
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Megabound posted:Show me a kit lens that can't stop down. If it read as "only ever do this" that's my failing and totally fair. I also provided links to instructional videos so I don't feel like I said "only do this". And working from the assumption it's just a cruddy light box AND the whole reason you get one of those is for the bog standard amazon white background, if you go too low, like anywhere past f/8-ish, it's going to take a tremendous amount of work to dig yourself out and get that pure white background again, whether its running your ISO too high and becoming grainy, or doing longer exposures, etc. So a jumping off point is a big wide open aperture on a kit lens (which is 4-ish to 5.6) and using the crap light coming out of the lightbox. From there you can keep stopping down and pumping up shutter speed and ISO and tinkering with light balance. So yeah, I'll absolutely cop to not being comprehensive. But at least I read his post and pointed somewhere. And I understand that stepping back just means you're shooting mostly your living room and the light box is like 20% of your frame and that's not going to help you dial in the abysmal lighting of the box. And that's what I've been harping on. "Take your first ever photo with this gear. Here's a video to tell you more." That was an answer. "Just be good at it already with better/different gear" isn't an answer. And I still have no idea why people were insisting on a wider aperture. That way lies madness.
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May 24, 2022 07:57
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The business end of your crack pipe must be hot enough to use as a key light
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May 24, 2022 08:00
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Surprise T Rex posted:Current uh, disagreement aside, how do you guys approach product photography? Are there any worthwhile guides on how to do it as a total beginner to this stuff? I highly recommend Peter McKinnon on YouTube. He does nice work and explains everything he's doing so you can follow along without referencing any charts or calculators. Really good for day 1 beginners. At least his product photography videos. He also does a shitload of clickbaity stuff so search specifically the product photo stuff.
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May 24, 2022 08:24
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you're shooting stationary objects in a completely controlled environment, stop down, increase exposure time and get loving crisp results. Take advantage of the situation. I don't know why you'd ever shoot f/1.4 if you're not after bokeh or are short on light for a moving subject, lenses are objectively at their worst wide open with regards to sharpness and aberrations.
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May 24, 2022 08:25
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please also apologise to me and my friends the hipsters of whom i am not one
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May 24, 2022 08:56
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Spedman posted:you're shooting stationary objects in a completely controlled environment, stop down, increase exposure time and get loving crisp results. Take advantage of the situation. I don't know why you'd ever shoot f/1.4 if you're not after bokeh or are short on light for a moving subject, lenses are objectively at their worst wide open with regards to sharpness and aberrations. With a flat enough object to squeeze in the 0.25" dof you can go nuts with background bokeh on a f/1.8 Like tabasco pepper plants behind a hot sauce bottle. And the default Christmas lights behind [insert Christmas object]. It's good for stacking stuff really close together, like camera - gap - object - 2" gap - background. But anything thicker than a deck of cards and you're going to lose detail every millimeter from the focal point you get. So a front facing ipod, yes. A plate of spaghetti and you'll get like 5 noodles in focus and then a red blur. It does have its uses, but not many in product photography. Portrait photography is another story. You can take great portraits or make extremely lovely casino heist zombie films with something like a 1.4 aperture.
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May 24, 2022 08:59
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Do you read the forums at max aperture too? Because you keep missing the point. Your technique is flawed, and now you've posted images proving it produces flawed results. So you should probably stop trying to come off like you're any kind of authority and listen to what you're being told. You will get better pictures if you take the advice.
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May 24, 2022 12:00
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show us what other dolls you play with
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May 24, 2022 12:53
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lmao at the new thread title
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May 24, 2022 13:03
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Hello, I am a fellow freak, I look forward to posting my bad photos.
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May 24, 2022 13:07
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i have a sickness for fast wide glass shot wide open to mediocre result i will never learn my lesson and panasonic is enabling me with the release of the 9mm f1.7 for m43
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May 24, 2022 14:30
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The Anime Liker posted:With a flat enough object to squeeze in the 0.25" dof you can go nuts with background bokeh on a f/1.8 Tell us you don't know anything about optics by telling us you don't know anything about optics.
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May 24, 2022 15:35
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Finally the DP for Beyond the Black Rainbow dares show his face.
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May 25, 2022 14:30
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I was away form the forums for 2 days, and I had my fingers crossed the entire time that there would be a meltdown. Not disappointed.
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May 26, 2022 03:14
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I'm a beginner commercial product photographer and all I have is a Canon 650D and a 1200mm f/5.6. I'm shooting wide open from 50 feet as suggested, my question is what is the best UV filter for my setup?
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May 26, 2022 03:43
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You want at least 2 skylight filters, a hoya and an urth to filter the maximum amount of sky light.
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May 26, 2022 03:50
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I'm just a bit worried that without all the sky light I'm going to have to shoot at too long an exposure. Things get pretty blurry at slower than 1/1000s plus the longer I hold the camera the more tired my arms get.
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May 26, 2022 03:56
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If you switch to an RF mount camera you can get a converter that takes drop in filters so you can add a UV filter to the back of the lens too.
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May 26, 2022 03:56
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Sorry for the derail, but I've got a question. In my camera I have an option for "lens aberration correction" and it lists my lens and says profile found. Great, so I would imagine the warping some lenses have is corrected somewhat. Neat. However, when I look at the photo in Lightroom Classic under the Lens Corrections menu on the right, I can select "Enable Profile Corrections" and my lens is listed again correctly, and you can see a noticeable difference in the photo. The center bulges out a bit, and the histogram changes a little altering the color. Now - it looks fine before and after. It's noticeable, but not enough to really see that one looks better or, more "correct" than the other. My question, is this just applying what has already been applied via the camera a second time and I should leave it be unless I'm using a lens that my camera doesn't recognize, but Lightroom does?
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May 26, 2022 05:03
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What camera are you using and what format are you shooting in? I imagine lens correction will only apply to SOOC jpegs and would leave RAWs untouched.
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May 26, 2022 05:49
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Canon 70D and Canon EF-S 55-250 IS II. RAW only.
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May 26, 2022 14:50
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 17:57 |
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Yeah, raw files you load into lightroom will be completely unmodified data from the sensor so any in camera changes won't exist. They'll be there on the jpeg sidecars though.
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May 26, 2022 15:08
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