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ToxicFrog posted:Yeah, they mention that the Pi ZW2 works fine but the original Pi ZW has serious performance issues, especially if you try to add a webcam. Foosel mentioned in the past that the specific issue with the single core Pi models that include wireless (the Pi Zero W) is that the wireless stack uses a lot of CPU time (I think she said 50% in some instances) so it could choke performance. Since the Zero W 2 has multiple cores it should be better although I haven't tried it. Webcams can use some CPU time as well but with four cores it's likely not that big of a deal. I originally used a single core Raspberry Pi 1 model B and B+ for my OctoPi servers which although single core, lacked the wifi stack issue. Foosel didn't recommend that either but they worked reliably but were just slow. I moved to Pi 3 B and 3 B+ as they became available because comparing the two, the Pi 1 would take a noticeable amount longer just to upload and start/stop prints as well as do manual control stuff. Since I have three printers and three octopi devices it's been nice having them all using approximately the same hardware, although I have different webcams (one's a C270, one's a Pi cam on onboard connector, one's a generic $10 garbage camera). I've been debating getting some touch screens for them so I can try the TouchUI, but so far I've just set up an old laptop by the printers so I can just get to the interface of any of them with one device instead of buying three screens.
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# ? May 25, 2022 22:46 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 18:34 |
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Hmm, have to investigate Octoprint some more. Seems to be what I'm looking for whenever I can get spare hobby money, and then can find a Raspberry Pi.
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# ? May 25, 2022 23:20 |
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It’s great. Consider using an Android phone if you have a spare one.
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# ? May 25, 2022 23:27 |
RabbitWizard posted:Extrusion multiplier. Top solid speed. Small perimeter speed. If you want to get fiddly with it, Perimeter widths/overlap. In this case, the test print exists for a reason, but the actual end product at 0.1mm looks much better. However, I WOULD like to be able to print big simple things at 0.28 and still have reasonably square and crisp corners, to the extent that is possible. Thanks for the info!
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# ? May 25, 2022 23:58 |
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bird food bathtub posted:Hmm, have to investigate Octoprint some more. Seems to be what I'm looking for whenever I can get spare hobby money, and then can find a Raspberry Pi. "spare hobby money" and "buy a raspberry pi" are mutually exclusive
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# ? May 26, 2022 00:05 |
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What about something like this? FYSETC Display Screen SD-W-I-F-I with Card-Reader Direct BTT Wireless Cloud Transmission Module for Prusa MK3S TFT35 V3.0 Ender 3 SKR Mini E3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCNFWZS/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_E3Q2NNQVDMQ34R4WRKBM
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# ? May 26, 2022 01:52 |
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Chris from Chris's Basement did a video about Octo4A on his Galaxy S5 today. Haven't watched the Tom Sanladerer video recently enough to compare the two but Chris goes through the setup and some of the settings he had to mess with for timelapse photos and stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Psbwc-NFTU I think Tom's video was was linked recently but I don't see it in the last page or so, so here's that one as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38
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# ? May 26, 2022 03:17 |
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My S1 arrived today, set up was very easy. But I haven't actually gotten it to print anything yet. How long should it take between pressing print and it actually starting to print?
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# ? May 26, 2022 03:19 |
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ilkhan posted:My S1 arrived today, set up was very easy. But I haven't actually gotten it to print anything yet. How long should it take between pressing print and it actually starting to print? Depends on material settings and what the printer is capable of. It takes time for heaters to warm a build plate and extruder hotend and for a 3d printer to home axes and probe the build plate to check for warping and compensate (if equipped with that feature). Expect to set aside 15-30 minutes to watch it do those things and put down the first layer before you can walk away and do something else. If *anything* doesn't stick to the build plate perfectly once material starts being deposited, stop the print and consult the manual (your printer came with a manual that explains what to do for your first print, right?).
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# ? May 26, 2022 06:12 |
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Setting up Klipper on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v3.0, I want to make a big effort post about Klipper and how I shouldn't have waited so long, but I am stuck. This test mesh worked yesterday, now it is off center to the point where I cannot print it. "Too large for the print bed" it claims. What variables do I need to play with to center where a mesh is loaded Left is the preview in Prusa Slicer, right is the current gcode viewer in OctoPrint. It is harder to demonstrate with smaller objects, but those too are off center in OctoPrint but not Prusa. The extra confusing part is that if I load the exact file from yesterday, it too is off center.
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# ? May 26, 2022 14:18 |
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Serenade posted:Setting up Klipper on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v3.0, I want to make a big effort post about Klipper and how I shouldn't have waited so long, but I am stuck. Did Octoprint reset to thinking you have a 200x200 bed instead of 235x235
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# ? May 26, 2022 14:59 |
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Bought an anycubic Kobra the other day and I gotta say, this thing is pretty sweet. Less than 20 minute setup time and my first print came out better than 90% of what I was doing on my ender 3 but with no bed leveling, paper gapping, etc. I’m currently printing an eclipson rc plane and it’s coming out absolutely perfect even in weird lw-pla. Definitely worth looking into for a first/second printer
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# ? May 26, 2022 16:06 |
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mewse posted:Did Octoprint reset to thinking you have a 200x200 bed instead of 235x235 I don't think so because I can manually move it to x:228,y:228 with the nozzle over the bed. In checking, I did find that my x and y end stops' offsets were slightly off and adjusted those, but it's still loading gcode off center. Serenade fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 26, 2022 |
# ? May 26, 2022 16:12 |
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Does anyone else have issues with Cura 5 not turning on the fan in ender 3v2 gcode?
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# ? May 26, 2022 16:42 |
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Check if you recently used somebody's file that had settings included that deactivated your fan or sometimes they set it to only turn the fan on after x layers and those settings can stick in your preferences. Happened to me with print speed and temperature.
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# ? May 26, 2022 16:59 |
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Thanks, I actually did use a pre-generated gcode around the time I downloaded v5, so will check.
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# ? May 26, 2022 17:09 |
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Serenade posted:Setting up Klipper on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 v3.0, I want to make a big effort post about Klipper and how I shouldn't have waited so long, but I am stuck. I had the same problem when slicing with Cura. I had to go into the extruder settings and uncheck the "add offsets for extruder" (something like that, away from my computer)
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# ? May 26, 2022 17:15 |
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I've got a bad thermistor wire on my Voron and I'm going to have to tear apart all the stupid cable chains to replace it, this is going to annoy me.
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# ? May 26, 2022 17:22 |
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Edit: You know I’m just going to get this. It’s $199.99 at microcenter for a NEW machine and not an open box. https://all3dp.com/1/biqu-b1-review-3d-printer-specs/ Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 19:12 on May 26, 2022 |
# ? May 26, 2022 18:54 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Edit: You know I’m just going to get this. It’s $199.99 at microcenter for a NEW machine and not an open box. https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Neptu...aps%2C84&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Removabl...aps%2C77&sr=8-3 Get a printer that other people have so you can find help when a part invariably breaks
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# ? May 26, 2022 22:18 |
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I would spend the extra $80 and get the ender 3 v2 avoid many headaches
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# ? May 26, 2022 22:51 |
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This. There are just so many resources and parts available out there.
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# ? May 27, 2022 00:00 |
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mattfl posted:I've got a bad thermistor wire on my Voron and I'm going to have to tear apart all the stupid cable chains to replace it, this is going to annoy me. A single wire is easy, but you should not have thermistor wire in your cable chain if you do, you should spend the $20 or so for the hartik board and terminate everything at the toolhead Or get the new stealth burner one, and print that. And update 4 things vs just running a single wire
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# ? May 27, 2022 00:05 |
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Hadlock posted:I would spend the extra $80 and get the ender 3 v2 avoid many headaches Trust me I did before and it was insane headache, and I was unable to fix the issues. Also this one’s made by big tree which does a poo poo ton of parts too. I have to say as I’m putting it together just feels better made than the Ender, that said the parts all probably came from the same place in terms of the aluminum profile.
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# ? May 27, 2022 00:23 |
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My neighbor and I are contemplating building this PET recycling machine. Looks like it's in sort of beta, so there will probably be bumps, but man, it just looks SO COOL.
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# ? May 27, 2022 00:55 |
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cruft posted:My neighbor and I are contemplating building this PET recycling machine. Looks like it's in sort of beta, so there will probably be bumps, but man, it just looks SO COOL. It does look cool and the PET isn't bad to print with (based on the CNC Kitchen video about a similar machine) with some caveats. I'd say the worst part of it is that each bottle only gets you a little bit of filament (20g was the estimate in the CNC Kitchen video), plus it's more of a folded plastic string than filament so he's had to adjust flow rates. That all given, it's very cool to reuse a lot of recyclables yourself, especially since you can print most of the structure and there's just some hardware to buy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N06FWr06iOI
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# ? May 27, 2022 01:06 |
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Trust me I did before and it was insane headache, and I was unable to fix the issues. All these machines are basically clones of the ender 3 and are going to be super hit or miss. For however trash the ender 3 is, they're at least from a company that isn't droppshipping a rehash. Chances are your fine, and at worst it's a decent platform to rework and upgrade like the ender 3 E: also the fact a million other people own an ender 3 makes fixing the printer a mile easier w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 01:30 on May 27, 2022 |
# ? May 27, 2022 01:19 |
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I built a Voron 2.4 350x350 and let me tell you.... it took forever and cost a lot. I wouldn't due it again but I finished it out of spite. At least now I can 3d print without any preparation.
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# ? May 27, 2022 22:29 |
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We are currently going through the process to become 'certified handlers' so we can purchase and use extra hazardous chemicals in the workshop (specially a class 6.1B). We've had the inspectors round for a preliminary visit and they do not like 'evaporate it down' as a waste disposal method lol
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# ? May 27, 2022 22:55 |
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ZHamburglar posted:I built a Voron 2.4 350x350 and let me tell you.... it took forever and cost a lot. I wouldn't due it again but I finished it out of spite. At least now I can 3d print without any preparation. What didn't run you out of curiosity? I keep looking at a kit but it seems from digging around that it's a bit misleading to assume that's the total cost
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# ? May 28, 2022 00:22 |
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mattfl posted:I've got a bad thermistor wire on my Voron and I'm going to have to tear apart all the stupid cable chains to replace it, this is going to annoy me. The FFC mod is 100% worth it IMHO. Or a CANbus toolhead could be as good. The cable chains aren't an optimal solution. I looked at it as I've already dropped more than a Prusa on this, an extra $30-$40 for a custom toolhead PCB is nothing, and the preferred firmware handles it all with no fuss.
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# ? May 28, 2022 00:35 |
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ZHamburglar posted:I built a Voron 2.4 350x350 and let me tell you.... it took forever and cost a lot. I wouldn't due it again but I finished it out of spite. At least now I can 3d print without any preparation. I built a 350 and finished it a few weeks ago. I love projects, and I enjoyed building it.
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# ? May 28, 2022 01:37 |
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I just got a lovely spool of marble colored PETG. Before I give myself brain damage with yeggi.org, any of you know of a good repository of print ready scans of classical sculptures?
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# ? May 28, 2022 03:22 |
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The classic breast feeding madaloriam is just screaming for marble pla
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# ? May 28, 2022 03:30 |
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Marsupial Ape posted:I just got a lovely spool of marble colored PETG. Before I give myself brain damage with yeggi.org, any of you know of a good repository of print ready scans of classical sculptures? https://www.myminifactory.com/scantheworld/
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# ? May 28, 2022 03:59 |
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w00tmonger posted:What didn't run you out of curiosity? I keep looking at a kit but it seems from digging around that it's a bit misleading to assume that's the total cost Most of the kits are hilariously complete. But that's because the BOM is ALSO hilariously complete. Assuming you know what you got (EG, what revision, what "parts") you can assume you'll have ~at least~ one complete set of parts. What gets most people, is they get lost on "better". Or what they got sent isn't "adequate" in their eyes. For example, with my V0, a lot of people would have replaced the SSR with.. something not on a PCB, and better documented. They'd have bought a better drag chain. I did buy better double sided foam tape. And I bought better idlers.. which the BOM didn't specify immediately. And I bought a frame the color I wanted. So.. My $500 kit really cost me something like $600. With things like a 2.4, you'll see people buying better rods for the Z drives, you'll see people buying better belts, sometimes. You'll see them buying sets of accessory parts, eg lights, decals, displays, etc.. You'll see them buy other SSR's. And drag chains. Or PCB boards/heads for sections of the machine. Accessories, or "design decisions" can really f up your budget if you found out your kit has hall sensors when you wanted microswitches. Or you decide you want to go clicky and it comes with an inductive probe.
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# ? May 28, 2022 04:08 |
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Thanks. Now to find a Roman phallic amulet...
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# ? May 28, 2022 05:05 |
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w00tmonger posted:What didn't run you out of curiosity? I keep looking at a kit but it seems from digging around that it's a bit misleading to assume that's the total cost I think the total cost was around $2200. I didn't use any kits and I basically picked the best version of whatever was available. A lot of the cost came from not having the tools to make various connections or cuts during the build. Overall I'm happy with the build and glad I didn't try to get cheaper versions. It took right around 5 months to actually complete due to getting to various parts of the build and realizing I didn't have a part and then having to source it again.
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# ? May 28, 2022 05:13 |
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Marsupial Ape posted:Thanks. Now to find a Roman phallic amulet... Alternately
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# ? May 28, 2022 07:53 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 18:34 |
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I want to extend the height of my Ender 3. My power supply isn't attached to my Ender, so I don't need any additional holes in the rail. I have a thread cutter for the bolts that go into the top/bottom. Cables are also long enough. Did I forget anything or is it enough for me to order "2040 Aluminum Profile" and "8mm Lead Screw"? Also, what new problems will this create for me to whine about itt in the future?
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# ? May 28, 2022 11:34 |