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RabbitWizard posted:I want to extend the height of my Ender 3. My power supply isn't attached to my Ender, so I don't need any additional holes in the rail. I have a thread cutter for the bolts that go into the top/bottom. Cables are also long enough. Seems like this company makes a 500mm height kit has the aluminum and leadscrew as well as longer wires for the x axis stepper and endstop since it will go higher for about $80. https://enderextender.com/collections/frontpage https://enderextender.com/collections/ender-3-v2/products/extender-xl It specifically says "No BLTouch/Hot End/Fan/etc extension wires are included" so those could be an issue as well. They have other kits to make the whole frame bigger and stuff as well, but I'd imagine heavily modding it could become as expensive as just getting a Sunlu S8 or CR-10.
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May 28, 2022 11:52
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Rexxed posted:Seems like this company makes a 500mm height kit has the aluminum and leadscrew as well as longer wires for the x axis stepper and endstop since it will go higher for about $80. Rexxed posted:It specifically says "No BLTouch/Hot End/Fan/etc extension wires are included" so those could be an issue as well. Rexxed posted:They have other kits to make the whole frame bigger and stuff as well, but I'd imagine heavily modding it could become as expensive as just getting a Sunlu S8 or CR-10.  Maybe I should take my 35€ and put it in a Piggy Bank for a new printer. I already bought more upgrades by now than I paid for the whole thing.
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May 28, 2022 12:19
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RabbitWizard posted:Too expensive for some parts I don't need and work I can do myself. Oh, also Germany, so I expect a premium of at least 20-50%. So far I found 2 500mm rails for 12€ each and a spindle for 10,50€ on aliexpress = 35€ In that case, if it's printing fine but you just need a little more height then I'd give it a shot. It's likely to be a reversible mod.
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May 28, 2022 12:27
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RabbitWizard posted:I already bought more upgrades by now than I paid for the whole thing. This is thread title material.
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May 28, 2022 13:39
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So I’m pretty goddamn happy with the big tree so far. I was able to build it and get Octoprint set up. I had some initial issues with feeding but that got taken care of pretty quickly, the only huge issue is finding a way to make sure that support structures do not print as they are not needed and also are nearly impossible to get the goddamn figure out of. I am testing out some of the saucerman studios free structure samples, granted I really won’t be able to comment on that until it’s done printing sometime around midnight. Lol Oh and the BL auto touch is not the CR one, it’s made by a different company, but honestly leveling this wasn’t that bad, so I’m not in a rush to get that, beyond returning the one that doesn’t work with the system. Still I’m pretty drat happy if it’s so far and assuming the support structure issue is worked out by me, and I don’t doubt it will, but I am very happy with a printer I got for less than the MSRP of the battle zone frontier set which sells for 220.
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May 28, 2022 14:00
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Marshal Prolapse posted:So I’m pretty goddamn happy with the big tree so far. I was able to build it and get Octoprint set up. I had some initial issues with feeding but that got taken care of pretty quickly, the only huge issue is finding a way to make sure that support structures do not print as they are not needed and also are nearly impossible to get the goddamn figure out of. I am testing out some of the saucerman studios free structure samples, granted I really won’t be able to comment on that until it’s done printing sometime around midnight. Lol The biqu b1 seems to be basically an ender 3 v2 with a few different upgrade choices. I think the main thing they skimped on is power supply? I don’t think they upgraded to a meanwell. The main issue you’re going to have if you want to upgrade bits is that brackets may not line up with your holes or have the correct clearance around the fan shroud, so as long as you’re okay printing your own after measuring the b1 should be fine for you. BLTouch over CRTouch is fine, I have a CR that I got cheap but if I were to do it again I’d just to a BL. I also lucked out and got one of the new version CRs, the old ones apparently rattle really loudly during a print (a problem the BLs won’t have since they’re plastic).
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May 28, 2022 14:50
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The Eyes Have It posted:Alternately Fun fact, Greek statues all have tiny dicks because it was seen as being cultured and less animalistic. Meanwhile barbarian statues all had huge hogs.
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May 28, 2022 15:10
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Gaukler posted:The biqu b1 seems to be basically an ender 3 v2 with a few different upgrade choices. I think the main thing they skimped on is power supply? I don’t think they upgraded to a meanwell. Yeah I’ve discovered that the BL touch adapter comes with just does not loving work, so I’m printing out a new one. It also appears that my raspberry pi (which is old and has been laying around since the NES mini) may have been too old and that was what was contributing to print errors I’m trying a couple of prints now just directly from the USB, which worked fine before. Kind of stinks that I can’t get OCTO print to work yet, but if it’s otherwise fine I can live with that until I can ever buy a new pi. w00tmonger posted:Fun fact, Greek statues all have tiny dicks because it was seen as being cultured and less animalistic. And who won in 476? 
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May 28, 2022 16:14
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(S1 pro) Its alive! I think what happened is I tried to put the SD card in upside down (label up), and may have damaged some of the pins. With enough attempts I got it flashed to the newest creality firmware, and did the screen update too (which uses a separate slot in the screen itself, and a microSD instead of a full SD). Then with enough additional attempts I got the klipper firmware installed. Now I don't need that damned SD card slot. I'll probably still do an exchange, but I can print in the meantime. Got it running a simple test print right now, and filament is coming out and everything. Need to adjust the bed a little before the next print, its not as smooth as it could be. The screen is useless with klipper, so I'll pull that off too.
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May 28, 2022 18:39
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Marsupial Ape posted:I just got a lovely spool of marble colored PETG. Before I give myself brain damage with yeggi.org, any of you know of a good repository of print ready scans of classical sculptures? https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636349 Marble PLA, as big as my Prusa MK3 could print it One of my earliest prints An excruciating 2 day print (it was a lot of time when you've only been printing for a month) And now I have a thousand of them https://www.thingiverse.com/make:1034873
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May 28, 2022 18:58
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Very happy now with the printer. It’s finishing up a benchy and the benchy itself looks fine. But there was some weird structure support deforming and lots of stringing, but nothing wrong with the actual unit. So probably more stuff to dial-in. 
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May 28, 2022 19:11
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Why would you print benchy with supports?
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May 28, 2022 19:14
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Looks like the supports just broke free. Wash your bed. Dish soap and water works well if you can remove the print surface. Flood it with isopropyl if you can't. After that you could try all the assorted surface prep things. Gluestick, hairspray, specialty products, etc. I prefer not using them so there's no prep (beyond avoiding touching things), but some people find them easier. Your nozzle might be just a touch too far, but I wouldn't suggest that without a macro shot of the first layer.
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May 28, 2022 19:39
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Wibla posted:Why would you print benchy with supports? I’ve been trying to figure out if I need Supports for FDM, is it something I should just ensure is turned off? That said I should try testing a figure again. I did print out a small container (not scaled) and it was totally fine and without supports. Edit: ^ thanks I’ll try backing it up some more and cleaning the plate as I have IPA sitting around for when I need to remove model paint. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 19:50 on May 28, 2022 |
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May 28, 2022 19:47
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Marshal Prolapse posted:I’ve been trying to figure out if I need Supports for FDM, is it something I should just ensure is turned off? Models with extreme overhangs need supports, models without don’t. It’s not an all-or-nothing proposal for FDM printing. Your slicer should be able to tell you when they’re necessary by detecting the overhang angle and generating support material appropriate for your printer. That said, benchy is specifically designed to not have supports enabled because it’s a test of how your printer performs on difficult cases like bridging (how far the printer can safely extrude over empty space without sagging). Supports defeat the purpose of some of those tests.
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May 28, 2022 20:13
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csammis posted:Models with extreme overhangs need supports, models without don’t. It’s not an all-or-nothing proposal for FDM printing. Your slicer should be able to tell you when they’re necessary by detecting the overhang angle and generating support material appropriate for your printer. Well I’ll have to see how my thunder warrior prints out then, since I made sure to specifically not include any supports with that, since I basically freezes the drat figure in a Carbonate like state. That said adding the IPA and backing off a little seems to have done the trick, but I have to wait and see. Is there a recommended angle to set for supports to generate?
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May 28, 2022 20:18
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That’s dependent on your exact printer and its speeds and cooling capabilities. I’m phoneposting right now but there are test prints on Thingiverse for determining at what angle your printer needs to start using supports.
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May 28, 2022 21:00
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Wibla posted:Why would you print benchy with supports? Uh cause they're new? Chill out
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May 28, 2022 21:25
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Speaking of which. Benchy is on the way. Would this be considered a lot or a little bit of stringing? I don't see any on the aft area of the benchy, just the nose.
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May 28, 2022 22:08
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ilkhan posted:Speaking of which. Benchy is on the way. Would this be considered a lot or a little bit of stringing? I don't see any on the aft area of the benchy, just the nose. Not a lot. But don't stress about it for a while yet. :-)
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May 28, 2022 22:15
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I don't even worry about stringing anymore. I've tuned retraction as good as I can and I just hit it with a hot air rework station and they disappear. The real pain for me at least is that my probably wet PETG sometimes leaves behind thicker string globs that can't be solved with hot air alone, so I either end up using my thumbnail or an xacto knife to break them off.
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May 28, 2022 22:52
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Hot air rework station?
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May 28, 2022 23:03
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ilkhan posted:Hot air rework station? Stringing has a few factors but some will be retraction settings and some are just the materials. Even different colors from the same manufacturer can be a little bit different, so it's not uncommon to do some test prints with a new roll of filament. That said, some strings aren't uncommon and a heat gun will make quick work of them. Just don't use it on high or hold it in one spot for long, a quick wave over the thing will cause most of them to shrink or disappear.
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May 28, 2022 23:17
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Interesting. Hadn't heard of that before.
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May 29, 2022 00:26
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Rexxed posted:In that case, if it's printing fine but you just need a little more height then I'd give it a shot. It's likely to be a reversible mod. Rexxed posted:Stringing has a few factors but some will be retraction settings and some are just the materials. Even different colors from the same manufacturer can be a little bit different, so it's not uncommon to do some test prints with a new roll of filament. That said, some strings aren't uncommon and a heat gun will make quick work of them. Just don't use it on high or hold it in one spot for long, a quick wave over the thing will cause most of them to shrink or disappear. I'm really glad I didn't buy a heat gun after someone recommended it. They are expensive (or a fire hazard), they can take a long time to warm up (and cool down, so you can't put them down everywhere) and they heat up a large area possibly making the plastic dangerously soft. They are also big. I borrowed one once and eww. Sure, some training with them could help, but.... I bought one of those small handheld Bunsenburners (no idea what they are called) and it is really great. I recently printed something stringy and thought about this thread and heat guns. So I made some pics and here they are, burner is in the last pic: eww  ewwwww  smooooth    Also, that thing was like 4$ and is refillable, can't go wrong there. Jadius posted:The real pain for me at least is that my probably wet PETG sometimes leaves behind thicker string globs that can't be solved with hot air alone, so I either end up using my thumbnail or an xacto knife to break them off. 
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May 29, 2022 01:05
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RabbitWizard posted:I'm really glad I didn't buy a heat gun after someone recommended it. They are expensive (or a fire hazard), they can take a long time to warm up (and cool down, so you can't put them down everywhere) and they heat up a large area possibly making the plastic dangerously soft. They are also big. I borrowed one once and eww. Sure, some training with them could help, but.... See, this is why a cheap hot air rework station is great for this. $20 gets you a small box with a small corded wand where the heat comes out. It heats up quickly and cools down quickly too. They also come with a bunch of nozzles of various sizes so you can have more precision with where the hot air goes, so you can target just the strings and not heat up the rest of the print too much. I bought one a couple of years ago for SMD soldering stuff and I've probably used it more in the last 6 months on prints than I have removing chips and such. quote:Get one of them deburring tools, these are great. I'll have to look into that, thanks. I'm getting a little sick of cutting open the skin under my thumb trying to pick off globs of plastic.
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May 29, 2022 02:03
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Deburring tools like that only work on edges, not surfaces. They make scrapers for surfaces, but they don't work perfectly on plastic.
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May 29, 2022 03:53
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Well RIP my printer. I was doing a firmware update for the touch screen and no problem, but when I restarted it now just says no printer attached. Now I’m also doing the motherboard so I figured that could be a reason, so I power down and try and insert the motherboard firmware into the so slot and lo and behold it’s all bent to poo poo and dead. So now I can’t do any sort of motherboard installation or anything. I’m just gonna take this back tomorrow and cut my losses. I know a lot of people say just fix yourself or tinker around, but I’m a firm believer in not paying for something that you have to fix or it has broken parts out of the box. I found lots of things to try with no printer attached, and I’ll give them a try, but no luck so far. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 04:25 on May 29, 2022 |
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May 29, 2022 04:22
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Just use a heat gun and remove the stringing quickly. I’ve found that stringing is almost impossible to avoid in some filaments. Just get it down to acceptable levels and make sure the actual prints look good.
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May 29, 2022 04:23
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RabbitWizard posted:I will! Pretty sure that's a flambé torch from a restaurant.
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May 29, 2022 05:03
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Everyone should have one of those butane torches, they're great
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May 29, 2022 05:13
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I’ve got some old silk filament (like a year old) that I can’t figure out what the gently caress. It under-extrudes above layer 25 or so no matter what I do setting-wise, and no matter which printer I put it in. It was sealed the whole time, and I dried it in two different filament dryers but it’s still doing the same thing. Does silk just go bad over time? I didn’t have this trouble with non-silk PLA that old. Oh, and it’s not just one brand. I’ve had trouble with MatterHackers silk and sainsmart silk. When they were new, they printed beautifully. I have 4 more rolls of it, so I’d hate to throw it out. 
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May 29, 2022 15:07
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What happens if you switch to something like a 0.8mm nozzle
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May 29, 2022 17:43
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Currently assembling my ender 3 v2 and I’ve messed up somewhere but unsure where. I’ve been following this assembly video: https://youtu.be/gokN9xNG94U Around 23:10 he moves the x-axis bar up and mine just won’t budge, even iF I try with slightly more force. Moving it down went fairly easy, although not without much pressure. I tried loosening and then fastening the screws in the z-axis axle (I think that’s what it’s called?). Manually turning the top part of the z-axis motor makes the bar go up fine, although not super smooth. I probably tightened something too much, any thoughts on which part? Edit: the manual calls it the T-shaped screw rod. When trying to move the x axis bar up (while z axis motor screw were loosened) it pulls it straight out of the motor. I see some grease/lube on the bottom of the rod and (what I think is) the hot end. Might it need more lube? LochNessMonster fucked around with this message at 18:19 on May 29, 2022 |
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May 29, 2022 18:09
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I just wish 3D Printer Companies would spend some time and care on SD reader installation. It’s just annoying and in this case renders a whole device useless, because someone smushed it in and in one case I assume didn’t test it to make sure it was on.
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May 29, 2022 18:09
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LochNessMonster posted:Currently assembling my ender 3 v2 and I’ve messed up somewhere but unsure where. The x axis will not go smoothly up on the z screw. I had to spin it by the coupler. Going down kinda goes, tho not as easily as any of the belt driven axes. I figured that's kinda a give, as pushing done you can apply enough force, but pushing up the force will lift the machine. Secrws are meant to transfer/reduce force in the opposite direction.
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May 29, 2022 18:24
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gbut posted:The x axis will not go smoothly up on the z screw. I had to spin it by the coupler. Going down kinda goes, tho not as easily as any of the belt driven axes. I figured that's kinda a give, as pushing done you can apply enough force, but pushing up the force will lift the machine. Secrws are meant to transfer/reduce force in the opposite direction. Not smoothly, or not at all? What you say makes sense, just making sure I’m not messing up something in the assembly phase as the guy in the video moves it up by barely lifting it with a few fingers.
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May 29, 2022 18:32
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If it lifts easily by spinning the screw, with no noticeable pushback, you're fine. Thought, I guess someone with a bit more mechanical experience might correct me. I installed a second screw on mine, so even though I was able to move it up in the past, with 50/50 chance of lifting the whole machine in the process, the second screw made the resistance high enough that I lift the machine every time I try.
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May 29, 2022 18:49
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gbut posted:If it lifts easily by spinning the screw, with no noticeable pushback, you're fine. Thought, I guess someone with a bit more mechanical experience might correct me. When turning the coupler it goes up perfectly fine and manually pushing down does the same. Sounds like I’m good for now then. Continuing assembly and see if I can get started on that benchy.
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May 29, 2022 19:08
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Hadlock posted:What happens if you switch to something like a 0.8mm nozzle I'll try that. Also cranking up the temp. Apparently silk needs a lot of heat. I suppose when it was new it wasn't such a problem.
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May 29, 2022 19:24
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