IOwnCalculus posted:I'm betting he meant something like this, so all the dust and poo poo gets self-contained. Ah that's pretty neat. But I doubt it will work for widening an existing hole by a bit (nothing to keep it centered).
|
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 13:58 |
|
|
# ? May 30, 2024 16:20 |
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:you get about 12"x12"x4" per bag of concrete. 4 sounds a little low, i'd expect to need 5 bags/hole and have 6/hole on hand just in case. OP, is there a reason you're only going 1 - 2/3 feet down? How tall a fence? What area?
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 14:19 |
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Link shows a security camera. What the? Fixed now, thanks. https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-H...s%2C440&sr=8-13 ANIME AKBAR posted:Ah that's pretty neat. But I doubt it will work for widening an existing hole by a bit (nothing to keep it centered). You have to plug the existing hole. This is the case with pretty much any hole saw. Something as simple as a piece of drywall and some spray foam will do it. Ether way, it's clear now that this is a rental and nobody should be asking about repair or wiring advice in this thread about their rentals. This is not your job, and it exposes you to liability. Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Jun 3, 2022 |
# ? Jun 3, 2022 14:24 |
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:i'd be surprised if a pro took any dust mitigation measures beyond sweeping and vacuuming The very first time I saw someone use one of those was when I had a friend (who is an electrician) set up a new junction box in a ceiling for me. Time's money and he doesn't want to waste it vacuuming when he could be done already.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 15:31 |
|
Cyrano4747 posted:It's not about the realities of you leaving behind a fire hazard, it's about the liability of doing unapproved electrical work on something that isn't yours. This isn't just major liability like the place burning down, it's about your landlord being justifiably pissed that you did work on your unit without their approval. This. From a legal standpoint, you could be held responsible for the cost of restoring the space to its previous state if the landlord decides they don't like your modifications. This includes, but is not limited to putting up shelving, changing paint colors, and changing light fixtures. In most cases this gives the landlord cause to not return your security deposit, but it could lead to being sued in court. If you get the landlord's permission to do the work on the property, make sure you get it in writing and that the scope of the work, including materials, is specified. This document should also include language granting a temporary reduction in rent or other payment for the services rendered.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 15:34 |
|
Had some floor and foundation work done on a room in my finished basement, and now I plan to repaint the drywall in said room. They suffered a fair bit of cosmetic damage during the previous work; numerous spots where the current paint chipped off, there's dirt or cement on the walls, and a few scratches but nothing that couldn't be patched. What's the best way to clean and prep the walls before priming them? Do I just scrub them clean with soap and water and patch the scratches, or is there more involved prep that I should do? VVV patch then TSP, or the other way around? C-Euro fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jun 3, 2022 |
# ? Jun 3, 2022 18:57 |
|
Scrub the walls with TSP and hot water.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 18:58 |
|
PremiumSupport posted:From a legal standpoint, you could be held responsible for the cost of restoring the space to its previous state if the landlord decides they don't like your modifications. This includes, but is not limited to putting up shelving, changing paint colors, and changing light fixtures. In most cases this gives the landlord cause to not return your security deposit, but it could lead to being sued in court. Also, landlords here can't just decide to keep the whole security deposit if you left a shelf behind. If they keep anything, it must be itemized and include actual receipts, so if it took someone (generously) 30 minutes to take down a shelf and spackle the hole, that's all they can deduct from your deposit.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 19:13 |
|
I wonder what the value of the RSF in aggregate is taken up by the zillion coats of paint old apartments have on them? It's only a few mm per apartment I assume but across all of the USA or all of a complex that's actual meters of wall encroachment.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 19:35 |
|
C-Euro posted:Had some floor and foundation work done on a room in my finished basement, and now I plan to repaint the drywall in said room. They suffered a fair bit of cosmetic damage during the previous work; numerous spots where the current paint chipped off, there's dirt or cement on the walls, and a few scratches but nothing that couldn't be patched. What's the best way to clean and prep the walls before priming them? Do I just scrub them clean with soap and water and patch the scratches, or is there more involved prep that I should do? I’d do TSP first. Any dust from sanding should be OK to clean up with a shop vacuum and soap and water.
|
# ? Jun 3, 2022 20:42 |
|
Follow up - I have some primer already but not enough to cover the whole room, I should try and get the exact same kind of primer to finish the rest of it right
|
# ? Jun 4, 2022 04:33 |
|
C-Euro posted:Follow up - I have some primer already but not enough to cover the whole room, I should try and get the exact same kind of primer to finish the rest of it right
|
# ? Jun 4, 2022 04:48 |
|
weird ant problem in our bathroom, tiny black ants coming through the tub caulk into the tub, only seeing a couple at a time but what on earth are they after? I'm worried they're eating the wood. tub is an awkward place to put bait.
|
# ? Jun 4, 2022 06:43 |
|
erosion posted:weird ant problem in our bathroom, tiny black ants coming through the tub caulk into the tub, only seeing a couple at a time but what on earth are they after? I'm worried they're eating the wood. Your tub is leaking somewhere in the walls/onto the floor. The ants are merely a symptom.
|
# ? Jun 4, 2022 14:23 |
|
Not really a quick fix but does anyone know if there is a solar thread? I'm looking to add some lights to a chicken coop/enclosure but would like to scope it to grow to accommodate automatic coop doors and vent fans etc if possible. Would prefer to stay 12v.
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 17:09 |
|
Motronic posted:Your tub is leaking somewhere in the walls/onto the floor. The ants are merely a symptom. Can you elaborate? How are the presence of ants an indication of a tub leak, do they eat the mold or something?
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 17:31 |
|
Ants need water to live.
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 17:40 |
|
Guyver posted:Ants need water to live. So do humans
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 18:12 |
|
Guyver posted:Ants need water to live. Sure, ants will also penetrate into areas without water. So I don’t see how “presence of ants” means leaky bathtub
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 18:49 |
|
According to an advertisement by a renovation place around here, "if your bathroom is more than ten years old, it's probably got some water damage". Something is probably no longer water tight.
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 19:02 |
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Sure, ants will also penetrate into areas without water. So I don’t see how “presence of ants” means leaky bathtub Point being that they’re not coming in to enjoy the decor. If you notice them coming into a specific area there’s something that’s drawing them, almost always food or water. If you don’t have an obvious source of food in your bathroom that they’re heading for (say a big glob of toothpaste covered in ants) then chances are it’s water.
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 19:19 |
|
i left a pack of edibles open once and for like a week i had stoned ants coming looking for another hit
|
# ? Jun 5, 2022 19:35 |
|
Luna posted:Not really a quick fix but does anyone know if there is a solar thread? I'm looking to add some lights to a chicken coop/enclosure but would like to scope it to grow to accommodate automatic coop doors and vent fans etc if possible. Would prefer to stay 12v. The electric thread is the defacto solar thread. In fact the last page or more is all solar all the time.
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 05:03 |
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:According to an advertisement by a renovation place around here, "if your bathroom is more than ten years old, it's probably got some water damage". bathrooms, with a well known lifespan of ten years .. what a crock of poo poo. (not shooting the messenger, just dont like the misleading marketing) Cyrano4747 posted:Point being that they’re not coming in to enjoy the decor. If you notice them coming into a specific area there’s something that’s drawing them, almost always food or water. If you don’t have an obvious source of food in your bathroom that they’re heading for (say a big glob of toothpaste covered in ants) then chances are it’s water. well explained, thanks
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 13:53 |
|
on an aside, i asked about a concrete pump a while back .. we poured this last weekend and it went well. pump was worth the money, the alternative would have been setting up a looooong extension chute and wheelbarrows ...... probably would have killed the finishers from exhaustion https://imgur.com/a/CAplAsU
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 14:01 |
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:bathrooms, with a well known lifespan of ten years .. what a crock of poo poo. (not shooting the messenger, just dont like the misleading marketing) With the way most bathrooms I've seen are installed in development/tract housing this is probably an optimistic number. It turns out building a series of waterproof enclosures takes a bunch of proper materials, installed correctly and most people simply don't do that at all because you can't tell anything is leaking for way longer than any warranty.
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 14:02 |
|
How hard is it to fix a couch that is dropping couch springs onto the floor? I have an Ikea "FRIHETEN" that's about 10 years old and the fabric is fine but the supports under the non-chaise cushion are wearing out and becoming unstapled from the wood. Replacing them with new springs is out of the question I think because I assume the particleboard they were stapled into is just as hosed as the staples were, but maybe a more durable solution exists that I don't know about?
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 17:50 |
|
I think you'd need to assess whether or not your statement on the particleboard is true, because if the staples/springs are coming out because the wood is degrading, that sounds like you've hit the expected lifespan of Ikea furniture.
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 18:04 |
|
Corla Plankun posted:How hard is it to fix a couch that is dropping couch springs onto the floor? I have an Ikea "FRIHETEN" that's about 10 years old and the fabric is fine but the supports under the non-chaise cushion are wearing out and becoming unstapled from the wood. Replacing them with new springs is out of the question I think because I assume the particleboard they were stapled into is just as hosed as the staples were, but maybe a more durable solution exists that I don't know about? cutting and fastening something like this in place sounds like it would fix your problem https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-1508104/202089069
|
# ? Jun 6, 2022 20:53 |
|
With a porcelain sink caulked to a painted wall and (comically badly installed) mirror, is the right order to paint the wall then caulk the sink to it and the mirror?
|
# ? Jun 7, 2022 00:04 |
|
Hey, thread. I'm looking at some parts for some stilts I'm slowly attempting to design. I'm trying to roughly replicate the foot pieces seen in the first minute of this video. Specifically, the bits with the spring shock/suspension system. It looks to me like that guy pulled those off of a couple of mountain bikes. My questions are: pricing seems to be kinda all over the place online for them. Anyone have any ideas on what they're supposed to cost, so I know I'm not getting ripped off, or purchasing cheap ones? Also, I'm assuming these things are rated for variable weights based on, say, the tension placed on the spring. How does that all work? Like, do I have to figure out the weight spec and order based on that? Or is this a thing where I can buy whichever set I want and adjust them when I get them?
|
# ? Jun 7, 2022 00:43 |
|
GWBBQ posted:With a porcelain sink caulked to a painted wall and (comically badly installed) mirror, is the right order to paint the wall then caulk the sink to it and the mirror? You probably don’t need to caulk the mirror, but you should paint before applying most silicone caulks.
|
# ? Jun 7, 2022 02:06 |
|
nitsuga posted:You probably don’t need to caulk the mirror, but you should paint before applying most silicone caulks. This. The PO of my house used silicone caulk in all sorts of inappropriate spots which made repainting an absolute bear.
|
# ? Jun 7, 2022 02:57 |
|
nitsuga posted:You probably don’t need to caulk the mirror, but you should paint before applying most silicone caulks.
|
# ? Jun 7, 2022 04:08 |
|
GWBBQ posted:Thanks, that's what I thought. I want to do it right, but I'm significantly more concerned with making sure it looks exactly like it did before my clumsy rear end pulled a cartoonish slip&fall that broke the sink in half so I get my security deposit back. If you'd believe it, the next day I stopped putting it off and bought a bathmat. I had quite the saga too when I dropped a glass soap tray in a pedestal sink. But anyway, you got the right idea. Caulk up that mirror!
|
# ? Jun 7, 2022 05:17 |
|
I noticed my furnace condensation pipe that leads to outside dripping water, so I went to my upstairs bathroom where the other line drains into and found a clog. I unclogged it. Two questions. 1. Since I unclogged it, the little pipe that feeds into the p-trap has been pouring out a slow but steady stream of water. Will this slow down at some point? I'm assuming I just had a lot of build-up (I've filled up around 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket so far). If I wait long enough, will that water flow slow to nothing or a drip? 2. Do I need to do anything else to the furnace? My furnace is in my attic and my attic sucks, so I am hoping I can avoid going up there if at all possible. Will do if I need to, obviously. Is unclogging the pipe at the point where it feeds into the p-trap going to be enough to address this issue?
|
# ? Jun 9, 2022 00:59 |
|
Do you have A/C, or is it just a furnace? Is it running right now?
|
# ? Jun 9, 2022 01:01 |
|
Leperflesh posted:Do you have A/C, or is it just a furnace?
|
# ? Jun 9, 2022 01:04 |
|
I suspect that is the drain line for your A/C, and it will continuously produce condensation while the A/C is running. That's normal. If you can access the other end of the drain line (the one indoors, where the fan blows air over the evaporator) you can use an air compressor to blow air out through the line. That'll clear out gunk. There are also various treatments, in dry and wet forms, you can pour down the drain line to help keep it clean of gunk. The outdoors part of a home A/C install are the condensers, where a big loud pump runs to mash the gas back into a liquid and give up a huge amount of heat in the process. The liquid is then pumped to the evaporator, where it's allowed to drop in pressure, turning into a gas and absorbing a huge amount of heat in the process. Blow a fan across the evaporator and you get nice cold air. In combo furnace/AC units, it's common for the evaporator to be located with the heater, so you can do all your air-blowing and filtering in the same spot. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jun 9, 2022 |
# ? Jun 9, 2022 01:14 |
|
|
# ? May 30, 2024 16:20 |
|
Thank you so much! There was a significant blockage of some weird gunky stuff at the connection that I got out, so I'm hoping that will do the trick. I am putting my house on the market next month, so as long it doesn't clog back up and start overflowing into the drainage pipe in the next month or two, I should be good to go. Just wanted to check before tightening everything up. It's me. I am the previous home owner.
|
# ? Jun 9, 2022 01:17 |