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My toilet base is absolutely slathered with the worst caulk job you've ever seen extending about 2" up the sides of the toilet. Every bit is rough and irregular in all dimensions so it's impossible to clean. I want to redo it, except 1) removing silicone caulk is such a bitch and 2) I don't want to discover what horrors are lurking
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Jun 8, 2022 08:46
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i like nice words
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Many new razor blades will take it off.Slugworth posted:Huh. You know, there are some compelling arguments there. Did I... Did I just have my opinion about something changed on the Internet?? I wouldn’t do it. I want to see the code. I have a bud in the business who will caulk around the front & sides but leave the back open. Without caulk there, the worst that happens is that you get some dried piss under there. It won’t create stank lagoon under there, jfc.
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Jun 8, 2022 19:53
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Fun fact, not only were my condo builders drunk as hell 20 years ago, the architect / structural engineer were too because the toilets are rear plumbed, not plumbed into the floor. Every plumber that has visited here has said something to the effect of "god drat what the hell, haven't seen that before". Has some benefits like increasing vertical sellable square footage so that's why it was done, seems highly unusual today, I've never even seen a hotel with that. So I have a bit of this product: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Renew-3-3-oz-White-Kitchen-and-Bath-Silicone-Caulk-2223503/301211997 I am probably going to do that on both my toilets to cover up the slightly gross white caulk, rather than remove it with razor blades or re-do it. No it's not a best practice solution, but it's probably good enough with no real downside. The Loctite Renew won't be as good as real pure caulk applied to a clean surface but it should be OK?  I have become numb to any given type of contractor coming here, looking at any given situation, and saying some combination of swear words. Oh and it's both interior drunkenness and exterior, we just had over $40,000 of masonry repair completed to add flashing left out by the original build. PainterofCrap posted:I want to see the code. I believe it is here, could be wrong! : https://codelibrary.amlegal.com/codes/chicago/c7209359-81de-4059-a679-f6a211f04dea/chicagobuilding_il/0-0-0-356234#JD_18-29-405 18-29-405.5 Water-tight joints. Joints formed where fixtures come in contact with walls or floors shall be sealed with permanent caulk or other approved material. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jun 8, 2022 |
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Jun 8, 2022 20:00
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mutata posted:Yeah don't caulk the toilet to your floor, ew. That's how we do it here (Sweden) since we're required to have a waterproof membrane layer and the fewer things that go through it (e.g. toilet bolts) the better. So you just slap a silicone bead around the base to attach it.
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Jun 8, 2022 21:48
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Inner Light posted:https://codelibrary.amlegal.com/codes/chicago/c7209359-81de-4059-a679-f6a211f04dea/chicagobuilding_il/0-0-0-356234#JD_18-29-405 This seems like the sort of code that exists to support cities with lots of old apartment buildings in them, and the inspector probably isn't even looking if you're in an actual house Sealing the hole on the floor makes more sense when you consider the context of, say, an overflowing sink spilling through the subfloor into apartment 17b, 16b, 15b, and then a little spot on 14b's ceiling
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Jun 8, 2022 21:51
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Caulking around the base if the shitter is the norm for homes built since the 90s where I live at least. I'm actually having a hard time wrapping my head around not doing it, just for cleaning if nothing else. I agree, you shouldn't have nasties festering in the crack, but piss will invariably get in there and if you have a "shitters full" moment, it's possible other overflow could as well and then have water potentially sitting around the subfloor. The few toilets I've ever installed are always siliconed to the floor around the base to finish it off.
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Jun 8, 2022 22:45
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Oh, man I keep monopolizing this thread like it's Bad With Houses. Check out more drunkenness, or is this random chance? I let the condo HOA know via email with a photo, and they haven't gotten back to me with what they intend to do yet. Any masons know if that's an acceptable crack / bowing out?
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Jun 9, 2022 01:34
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Inner Light posted:Oh, man I keep monopolizing this thread like it's Bad With Houses. Check out more drunkenness, or is this random chance? Depends. Is it a veneer or a structural brick wall? Also, do you live somewhere where it freezes or where there are earthquakes?
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Jun 9, 2022 06:45
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Inner Light posted:Oh, man I keep monopolizing this thread like it's Bad With Houses. Check out more drunkenness, or is this random chance? here's a simplified explanation:   in other words, that brick is experiencing all or most of its load at the end closest to the window. Probably not "urgent" but will likely only progress until it starts to fall out one day. Maybe they can repair with epoxy & staples or replace entirely, but it may also indicate bigger issues behind the brick that need repair. unfortunately, masonry is an aging trade in short supply so you may have a lenthy lead time
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Jun 9, 2022 14:19
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If you haven't been reading this house build thread and voting 5 at every chance, you're not doing your forums duty and you're missing out. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3999215
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Jun 9, 2022 20:38
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meatpimp posted:If you haven't been reading this house build thread and voting 5 at every chance, you're not doing your forums duty and you're missing out. VIPoster right here
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Jun 9, 2022 21:06
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Speaking of house builds, my favourite chill Japanese carpenter grandpa posted a compilation build of a Japanese house: https://youtu.be/ztktS-Bc2bg There are more detailed videos available for every stage, but this one shows the typical build start to finish. It’s very relaxing to watch while nursing a baby because the methods are so different from typical North American ways.
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Jun 10, 2022 04:50
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iv46vi posted:Speaking of house builds, my favourite chill Japanese carpenter grandpa posted a compilation build of a Japanese house: I only had a chance to skim through in sections but this was a very cool video.
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Jun 10, 2022 17:16
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SpartanIvy posted:If you've disconnected the outlet and the transformers and the breaker is still tripping then I think the most likely cause is a short somewhere. I would pop into the crawl space and see if you can find any wiring from that outlet. I think since that outlet was tied into the new wiring, that's probably where the issue is. Could be there's a junction box in the crawl space that has some wires touching in it, or something like that. It was exactly this. They tied it in to a junction box in the crawl space. When they stripped the UF to make a connection they must have used a razor and accidentally cut through the hot wire coating. The ground was touching the wire. Must have worked its way to touching over the last six months somehow.
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Jun 10, 2022 17:43
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Ok thread denizens, feast your eyes upon one of my toilets So, please tell me, if you owned this place or were looking at buying it, if this rates under 1. you would remove this and redo it properly 2. looks fine and you would probably not touch it / not give a 2nd thought 3. this indicates the owner was insane, run away? Long story short a painter was here, I asked him to touch this up and I think he used acrylic + silicone which is not ideal, but am curious how much of a disaster it is.  VVVV Cogent advice thank you! Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jun 10, 2022 |
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Jun 10, 2022 19:09
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Give it 2 weeks. If you still notice it by then (you won't) then maybe you can think about what you should do about it.
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Jun 10, 2022 19:17
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Phil Moscowitz posted:It was exactly this. They tied it in to a junction box in the crawl space. When they stripped the UF to make a connection they must have used a razor and accidentally cut through the hot wire coating. The ground was touching the wire. Must have worked its way to touching over the last six months somehow. This is why I don't use a razor to strip Romex. I've found several instances of sliced off insulation in my friends, family, and my own wiring from prior electricians work. Luckily they were all caught before issues happened, but drat. It's not that much harder to just make a little cut at the end of the cable and pull the two halves of the sheath apart, and there's 0 risk of slicing through insulation that way.
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Jun 10, 2022 19:17
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Inner Light posted:Ok thread denizens, feast your eyes upon one of my toilets I'd leave it.
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Jun 10, 2022 19:50
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^^^^  Excellent info and summary, not to mention sources cited. Will watch out for that little guy falling onto a pedestrian in the future. Thanks a bunch BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jun 10, 2022 |
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Jun 10, 2022 20:05
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SpartanIvy posted:This is why I don't use a razor to strip Romex. I've found several instances of sliced off insulation in my friends, family, and my own wiring from prior electricians work. Luckily they were all caught before issues happened, but drat. It's not that much harder to just make a little cut at the end of the cable and pull the two halves of the sheath apart, and there's 0 risk of slicing through insulation that way. Or buy proper NM strippers...... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F9HIEC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jun 10, 2022 20:47
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VelociBacon posted:I'd leave it. I'd leave it for years, until it gets gross and starts to bother me. Then I'd leave it for some more years. Then I'd add it to "the list". Eventually, I'd remove it. But like... 5-8 years from now E: Although it looks like you are missing a closet bolt? That's gonna require removal if so. Or is it bolted to the wall at the back? That's a new one for me.
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Jun 10, 2022 20:51
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Just go old school https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-CR-100-4-Inch-Ripper/dp/B000BQUCIS/
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Jun 10, 2022 20:52
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Vim Fuego posted:I'd leave it for years, until it gets gross and starts to bother me. Then I'd leave it for some more years. Then I'd add it to "the list". Eventually, I'd remove it. But like... 5-8 years from now I believe it is bolted to the back, haven't taken those covers off. It is rear plumbed not bottom plumbed, an oddball. One toilet has bolts on the bottom, the other is what you see with.... clear silicone in there for some reason on both sides.
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Jun 10, 2022 22:00
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Motronic posted:Or buy proper NM strippers...... I had a pair of these and they sucked beyond explanation so I ended up tossing them.
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Jun 10, 2022 22:23
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SpartanIvy posted:I had a pair of these and they sucked beyond explanation so I ended up tossing them. Really? I love mine. Maybe they do'nt work well with all kinds of NM/romex? But they've been drat near flawless for me.
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Jun 10, 2022 22:27
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SpartanIvy posted:I had a pair of these and they sucked beyond explanation so I ended up tossing them. Not trying to be a piece of poo poo but were you pulling in the right direction? I've found these type of strippers suck if you'll pulling the wire the 'wrong' way. Maybe just me.
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Jun 10, 2022 22:30
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Motronic posted:Really? I love mine. Maybe they do'nt work well with all kinds of NM/romex? But they've been drat near flawless for me. Maybe I just had a set that slipped through QC but the Romex stripper part never worked right and I tried it every which way I could think. It would either cut through conductor insulation or not cut through the sheath well enough. Never hit the sweet spot inbetween them. It was older Romex at the time so that may have been part of the issue? My knipex works so much better at stripping the conductors that I just tossed the whole tool in frustration.
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Jun 10, 2022 22:46
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SpartanIvy posted:Maybe I just had a set that slipped through QC but the Romex stripper part never worked right and I tried it every which way I could think. It would either cut through conductor insulation or not cut through the sheath well enough. Never hit the sweet spot inbetween them. It was older Romex at the time so that may have been part of the issue? My knipex works so much better at stripping the conductors that I just tossed the whole tool in frustration. Yeah, I dunno. But in the age of "new" colored stuff (yellow 12 wire, white 14 wire) it's always been bang on. I've never over cut, but sometimes it undercuts to the point where it doesnt' release as cleanly as you'd like but it still goes. I've never cut through more than the sheath unless I was doing something stupid like trying to use it on already messed up/bent/twisted NM.
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Jun 10, 2022 22:59
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Inner Light posted:I believe it is bolted to the back, haven't taken those covers off. It is rear plumbed not bottom plumbed, an oddball. One toilet has bolts on the bottom, the other is what you see with.... clear silicone in there for some reason on both sides. I assume if it wasn't bolted anywhere you'd know about it haha
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Jun 11, 2022 00:26
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I’m running a buried 220V line from my son’s house to a shed he’ll be using for glass/lamp work. It’ll have a sub panel in the shed. I have been told that I can’t run direct burial 10-GA 12/3 through PVC conduit because it could create a heat issue. I wanted conduit to protect the wire. So I’ll probably drop the DB into the trench, throw on some dirt, then throw the conduit I already have down over it, then fill it in. No one I know has use for 40-LF of conduit, nor a place to store it, so this is the reasonable solution. Question is: how do I transition above grade? The run has to go through the walls of the house & the shed. Do I terminate in a buried waterproof box at both ends, then bring up conduit to get through the wall?
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Jun 11, 2022 02:05
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You stub up conduit, yeah. Image search for "direct burial transition" and you'll get a bunch of diagrams illustrating. NEC 300.5 should give you the proper depth and what covering, if any, are needed.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:30
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I. M. Gei posted:I'm just gonna go ahead and assume that 10 new windows for $450 a piece is an okay deal until someone tells me otherwise. And that an air infiltration rating of 0.28 isn't terrible. Trip Report: Install guys came out today, we have new windows and everything went great ... except for ONE window where the manufacturer hosed up and gave us the wrong size window, AND it was the one window that had an A/C unit in it, AND nobody caught the mistake until after the A/C was removed and the old window was demo-ed AND installers had to reorder that window AND we don't know when the ETA is on the replacement. Install company has no idea how the fuckup happened, since the measurements are all correct in their system and were correct when they sent them to the manufacturer; the manufacturer hosed some poo poo up somehow and we are gonna call them and yell at them to give us a discount/some of our money back for loving up. In the meantime, we now have nine beautiful new windows and one bigass hole in our wall with plywood hastily tacked over it, but, on the plus side, these are really nice windows. At least compared to our old ones.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:37
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I. M. Gei posted:Trip Report: Install guys came out today, we have new windows and everything went great Try to get a copy of the email/whatever correspondance/invoice/etc they sent to the manufacturer as proof because I bet they hosed up and are lying to you :c
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Jun 11, 2022 03:39
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VelociBacon posted:Try to get a copy of the email/whatever correspondance/invoice/etc they sent to the manufacturer as proof because I bet they hosed up and are lying to you :c We have their handwritten measurements and invoice in the folder they gave us when they did our estimate, and we know right where all of that poo poo is
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Jun 11, 2022 04:40
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Got Great Stuff on my favorite work gloves 
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Jun 11, 2022 19:41
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Cool, cool, my 2.75 year old just handed me a 4 foot length of pvc that "It's dripping! It's got water!" I go verify my suspicions that yup it's the condensate drain from the AC that sticks out from the crawl space. Everything is great. I'm not turning off the air pray for me. I'm 99% certain this just means it's making a little puddle under the house but I'll post a trip report if the plaster starts slopping off the walls. Edit: Weather station now reports its 95f outside. That screenshot was an hour or two old.
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Jun 11, 2022 20:11
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Just crawl under there with some PVC glue and fix it. It will not be too terribly hot down there. But as long as your crawl space is just a dirt floor and you don't let it go for too long, you're probably okay for a couple of days.
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Jun 11, 2022 20:23
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Yeah I'm not worried about it as long as it's making it to the dirt. We could probably run a literal hose down there for days and it wouldn't flood out. Just as long as it's not dripping straight onto a pier.
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Jun 11, 2022 20:47
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Our upstairs floors are painted, plus one bedroom with a "linoleum rug" that is a treasure. The current paint is a muddy reddish-brown; it is wearing through, and the layer underneath is a mustard-brown. Today I was in the upstairs bathroom, a recent addition, and saw a sliver of unpainted wood. It looks very much like old-growth redwood. (cries)
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Jun 11, 2022 22:24
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Trying to price some work I might do myself soon, if the stars align, and I'm trying to figure out pricing and quantity of rockwool. To note, this would be me building an interior wall to provide sound insulation turning one big room into two smaller rooms. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...7-221/312713245 The "Wood Studs Interior Walls" picture on the listing says "8 pieces" does that mean each bag (16 bags per pallet) contains 8 pieces of 23" x 47" insulation? Here's another listing for a single package of essentially the same stuff, slightly different dimensions, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...96588/319880476 Looks like it says 8 pieces on the package as well. Basically trying to figure out if the price will be say $50 per 15"x47" or $6.25 per 15"x47".
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Jun 12, 2022 20:29
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