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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


tangy yet delightful posted:

does that mean each bag (16 bags per pallet) contains 8 pieces of 23" x 47" insulation?

Yes.

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I might be looking for something that doesn't exist, so thought I'd ask here.

I want a natural gas (NOT propane) patio heater, which isn't crazy on its own, but I want a tabletop one which seems to be a bridge too far. I will plumb a line up the center of our patio table to feed it.

I've not seen any that are not either electric or LPG.....and the ones that are LPG generally say not convertible, if they say anything at all (most do not).

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I converted a free standing propane patio heater to natural gas. It was actually super easy. You just look up the BTU on a natural gas orifice chart and drill out the hole to that size. The only other thing to worry about is the air/fuel mix ratio but it wasn't necessary to mess with it after I converted mine. Which is good because there was no method for adjusting it anyway.

You also need to bypass the propane regulator but that should be obvious.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Anything special I should be doing with my growing collection of lithium batteries? I have a bunch in the 30-100 Wh range and one around 250 Wh. As far as charging and storage safety to minimize fire risk.

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

What do I need to seal this little gap under the front door?

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Harriet Carker posted:

What do I need to seal this little gap under the front door?



You need to either buy a new door sweep that extends slightly past the door to cover the frame, or swap to one that goes under the door too ala https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-1-3-4-in-x-36-in-Vinyl-U-Shaped-Door-Bottom-06528/100353435 The latter is going to do a much better job of sealing the bottom compared to what is on there now.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Double post to say that while water is the enemy of the home owner, scope creep is the villain. Six-ish weeks ago I set out on a journey to install a bathroom exhaust fan. This entailed pulling up the upstairs floor, and getting into the knee-wall attic space to run the vent out the side of the house. Except, there is no access door on that side of the attic. And also there is electrical running down the middle of the entire wall that needs to be rerouted to install the access door. And also all the insulation inside the attic is 80+ years old and looks like this:



Also there is a 4' section of buried half-finished wall??



Many evenings and weekends later I have air sealed the entire knee wall and added new fiberglass insulation between the joists and 2" of rigid foam to the walls. Pic below is when I was almost done. I am excited to report I also now have a door and an almost-completed recessed storage nook/bookcase.


I have finally sealed off the wall to the outside again so I am hoping my 2nd floor doesn't get to 89 degrees up there like it did yesterday. Working in a sweltering attic space with a respirator on is completely miserable. I still want to blow in either more fiberglass or cellulose on top of the batts but I may wait until fall to do that. I am very tired.

Finally having a bathroom exhaust fan is pretty great tho :toot:

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Our second-floor windows don't have screens. They're modern sliding casements. We can (and did) install adjustable window screens that are held in place by the pressure of the side of the casement, but unfortunately our cats like to stretch up and lean on the window screens, just as they do on the windows.

I like my cats a lot, and prefer them in 3D form. Is there such a thing as a window screen that can be installed (including actually mounting it, with tape or screws or clamps) on the inside?

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Harriet Carker posted:

What do I need to seal this little gap under the front door?



That looks like it could be fixed with a plinth block. Since a plinth block would typically protrude beyond the casing and baseboard, it should close that gap and, if needed, provide a better positioned surface for mounting some extra weather stripping to cover anything the door sweep is missing. And it would improve the aesthetic of the door casing/baseboard transition and make it feel more "finished".

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I. M. Gei posted:

VelociBacon posted:

Try to get a copy of the email/whatever correspondance/invoice/etc they sent to the manufacturer as proof because I bet they hosed up and are lying to you :c

We have their handwritten measurements and invoice in the folder they gave us when they did our estimate, and we know right where all of that poo poo is

I double-checked both the actual window measurements and the measurements the installers got and they are indeed correct. So the fuckup was on the manufacturer's end, and not the installer's.

Now I have to figure out how to yell at the manufacturer to maybe get some of our money back. Atrium Windows doesn't have a customer service phone number (that I could find on Google (that didn't lead to a robot asking for an employee extension and then hanging up)) and their online service request form doesn't have an option for "don't have a window in my wall at all cuz you hosed up making it", so I filled out basically a warranty service request marked "Other" with an explanation of what happened in the comments and included a pic of the white trash wood window, along with the service tag numbers for one of the windows that DID get installed (since it was a required field), and sent that in. We'll see if that goes somewhere.

Are there any other avenues I should try here? Or should I just suck my thumb and wait for the replacement window during this triple-digit heat wave?

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
If the installer ordered the windows from the manufacturer they should be fixing it. Presumably you paid the installer for 10 windows so they should be doing stuff to fix it even if the manufacturer messed up the size. They also should have ensured that the window was the right size before they took the old one out. I would see what they are doing about it. I doubt you will get anywhere with the manufacturer.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



slave to my cravings posted:

If the installer ordered the windows from the manufacturer they should be fixing it. Presumably you paid the installer for 10 windows so they should be doing stuff to fix it even if the manufacturer messed up the size. I would see what they are doing about it. I doubt you will get anywhere with the manufacturer.

They reordered the window and they're gonna put it in when it's ready. We have no idea when that'll be but we're hoping soon. I'm a little miffed that they refused to take any responsibility for the error and drop the install price but whatever. They told us to go complain to the manufacturer if we wanted any of our cash back, so that's what I'm looking into here.

slave to my cravings posted:

They also should have ensured that the window was the right size before they took the old one out.

In this case they would've had a hard time doing that because there was a window-unit A/C blocking the way and they had to part-way demo the window just to get it out. Although now that you mention it, I don't recall them checking the size on any of the windows before putting them in, though none of the other windows ended up having any issues, and this window was the last one they worked on.

I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jun 13, 2022

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Ask them nicely to mount your window unit using some scrap and a few pieces of plywood. It should block the window and provide easy mounting for the window unit.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



They are either explicitly not allowed or have just flatly refused to help reinstall the window A/C. I have asked.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I was talking w an older remodeler today who was telling me that he’d glue AND screw the Sheetrock in place, using construction adhesive. Claimed it prevented nail pops.

Seems like a hassle for little/no benefit—not to mention a nightmare to deal w for removal/repair :pwn:

Anybody heard of this before?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

I was talking w an older remodeler today who was telling me that he’d glue AND screw the Sheetrock in place, using construction adhesive. Claimed it prevented nail pops.

Seems like a hassle for little/no benefit—not to mention a nightmare to deal w for removal/repair :pwn:

Anybody heard of this before?

So, aren't nail pops only associated with ... you know ... nails? I'm no expert drywaller but at some point drywall went from being installed with nails (my 1955 house has nail pops in the drywall), to drywall screws because screws don't back out like nails do. Part of me wants to think this guy was laying drywall back in the day when nail pops were still a thing but then carried that trick over to when they were using screws as habit.

I would hate to remodel a house where the drywall was liquid nailed to the studs. I can only imagine removing drywall and nails only to have to also scrape adhesive/drywall chunks off the studs.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

Ultra Carp

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

I was talking w an older remodeler today who was telling me that he’d glue AND screw the Sheetrock in place, using construction adhesive. Claimed it prevented nail pops.

Seems like a hassle for little/no benefit—not to mention a nightmare to deal w for removal/repair :pwn:

Anybody heard of this before?

I have heard of it. Some people say they do it with ceiling boards to prevent cracking. I have taken down drywall that was installed with liquid nails + screws, it is worse but not that much worse than taking it down without it. I have installed it on the ceiling with liquid nails and screws and I have installed it on the ceiling with screws only. I have seen no difference in performance with or without liquid nails but then I'm only looking at my house, I'm not a business and I don't have customers that would call back. I do not bother to use it any more.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Verman posted:

So, aren't nail pops only associated with ... you know ... nails? I'm no expert drywaller but at some point drywall went from being installed with nails (my 1955 house has nail pops in the drywall), to drywall screws because screws don't back out like nails do. Part of me wants to think this guy was laying drywall back in the day when nail pops were still a thing but then carried that trick over to when they were using screws as habit.

I would hate to remodel a house where the drywall was liquid nailed to the studs. I can only imagine removing drywall and nails only to have to also scrape adhesive/drywall chunks off the studs.

I am in a house built in 2019 and repaired a literal nail pop just a month ago, so v0v

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Vim Fuego posted:

I have heard of it. Some people say they do it with ceiling boards to prevent cracking. I have taken down drywall that was installed with liquid nails + screws, it is worse but not that much worse than taking it down without it.
It's 1 hundred times worse if you're interested in the drywall ever being even again when you reinstall, because you have to chip off all the liquid nail from the joists. I've seen it on ceilings and walls, and on new and old construction. It's real annoying.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
The love to squirt their goop all over everything, but is there any benefit for the recipient?

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


It was only 2 degrees cooler on my 2nd floor today compared to when the space was completely open to the roof deck. :negative:

More disappointed then surprised. Older Cape Cods do a lovely job of keeping the 2nd floor cool so I'll likely have to get a window AC or minisplit to stop it being 90 up there.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Verman posted:

So, aren't nail pops only associated with ... you know ... nails? I'm no expert drywaller but at some point drywall went from being installed with nails (my 1955 house has nail pops in the drywall), to drywall screws because screws don't back out like nails do. Part of me wants to think this guy was laying drywall back in the day when nail pops were still a thing but then carried that trick over to when they were using screws as habit.

I would hate to remodel a house where the drywall was liquid nailed to the studs. I can only imagine removing drywall and nails only to have to also scrape adhesive/drywall chunks off the studs.

Ya definitely screws always but I’ve only ever heard them called “nail pops” though

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Vim Fuego posted:

I have heard of it. Some people say they do it with ceiling boards to prevent cracking. I have taken down drywall that was installed with liquid nails + screws, it is worse but not that much worse than taking it down without it. I have installed it on the ceiling with liquid nails and screws and I have installed it on the ceiling with screws only. I have seen no difference in performance with or without liquid nails but then I'm only looking at my house, I'm not a business and I don't have customers that would call back. I do not bother to use it any more.

Ok ya it sounds like the same kinda thing as fastening the studs w 15-20 nails instead of 4-6 or whatever the code calls for .. feels better for the guy who’s doing it but just makes it harder for whoever comes after

I’ll have to ask my drywaller next time I see him

Merkin Muffley
Aug 1, 2006
The Ballsiest

Sirotan posted:

Double post to say that while water is the enemy of the home owner, scope creep is the villain. Six-ish weeks ago I set out on a journey to install a bathroom exhaust fan. This entailed pulling up the upstairs floor, and getting into the knee-wall attic space to run the vent out the side of the house. Except, there is no access door on that side of the attic. And also there is electrical running down the middle of the entire wall that needs to be rerouted to install the access door. And also all the insulation inside the attic is 80+ years old and looks like this:



Also there is a 4' section of buried half-finished wall??



Many evenings and weekends later I have air sealed the entire knee wall and added new fiberglass insulation between the joists and 2" of rigid foam to the walls. Pic below is when I was almost done. I am excited to report I also now have a door and an almost-completed recessed storage nook/bookcase.


I have finally sealed off the wall to the outside again so I am hoping my 2nd floor doesn't get to 89 degrees up there like it did yesterday. Working in a sweltering attic space with a respirator on is completely miserable. I still want to blow in either more fiberglass or cellulose on top of the batts but I may wait until fall to do that. I am very tired.

Finally having a bathroom exhaust fan is pretty great tho :toot:

Hello fellow Cape Cod haver and victim of scope creep! My partner and I are on week 12 of what was supposed to be a 4 week project before we move in. It'll be worth it in the end, but the lesson I took from all of it is that "there's insulation in the attic space" does NOT mean "the attic space is insulated." I could use the rolls of 80's era fiberglass insulation that are up there, or the mountain of clothes from the same time, or the even the two used condoms we found in there.

Good news is that both the vent hood in the kitchen and the bathroom fan are routed now, and the register upstairs is ACTUALLY attached to the HVAC system now. We'll get there one day!

Woodsy Owl
Oct 27, 2004
I think the liquid nails on drywall is to prevent mobility of the drywall when the framing members warp or when you're too drunk to hit studs with drywall screws. Maybe both

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye
I'm amazed at a lot of you guys, really some inspiration in this thread! I'm a new home owner and was gonna get my tankless water heater flushed and was getting quoted $200-$300. I looked up the process on YouTube and found Matt Risinger's video on how-to flush the tankless water heater: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znuACzzav_Y, and it looked pretty easy (I'm terrible with diy) and getting the flush kit off Amazon was about $130 so that seemed like a better deal.

I was reading some vinegar v. Flow-Aide arguments and was leaning towards using Flow-Aide (I live in a very hard water area), do any goons have any recommendations or improvements on the above process? Thanks!

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

Ultra Carp
Hell yeah, but remember what a wise goon once said:

sirotan posted:

while water is the enemy of the home owner, scope creep is the villain

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

adnam posted:

I was reading some vinegar v. Flow-Aide arguments and was leaning towards using Flow-Aide (I live in a very hard water area), do any goons have any recommendations or improvements on the above process? Thanks!

I have very hard water and use Flow-Aide. I've used vinegar before and it just doesn't remove as much as Flow-Aide at room temperature. Vinegar for descaling a kettle works fine once you heat it up but that's not what's going on for a tankless heater flush.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I got a reply from the window manufacturer. They told me our windows were bought from Lowes and that we need to take our beef up with them if we want any money back.

... which I guess that makes sense, considering contractors like our window installers buy their poo poo from Lowes Depot all the time, but I can't help feeling like my runaround sense is tingling here.

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
lol. Welcome to the world of home contractors.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I feel like this is turning into one of those times when I should just take the L and wait for the replacement window to get put in. All things considered my room isn't too unbearable as long as the central A/C is turned down low enough, and the new windows we got that weren't hosed up have been amazing so far.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Am I the only one who thinks the contractor just called Lowe's with the order and said the numbers wrong? You paid for a contractor to replace the windows, it's on the contractor to ensure the correct thing is bought for the project, no?

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



VelociBacon posted:

Am I the only one who thinks the contractor just called Lowe's with the order and said the numbers wrong? You paid for a contractor to replace the windows, it's on the contractor to ensure the correct thing is bought for the project, no?

If this is what happened, and I don't deny that it might be, then I don't know how to prove it unless Wikileaks can magically get their hands on a recording of that call that doesn't exist.

When I called the installers yesterday they read the measurements in their system back to me and they were correct. I can try seeing what measurements Lowes got, but since the installer is the customer in this case and not us, I'm not sure if that'll go anywhere.

The installers refused to discount us other than charging 90% of the labor for the installed windows that day and the other 10% when the other one gets put in, on the basis that we (and by "we" here I mean my father, the homeowner) already signed a form agreeing to it, which I don't know how to fight that poo poo and I kinda doubt it's worth it to try.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

I. M. Gei posted:

I don't know how to fight that poo poo and I kinda doubt it's worth it to try.

It's called small claims court.

You signed a contract with certain requirements and they're not meeting those requirements. It doesn't matter who made the mistake because as the contractor it's their responsibility.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Just an update on gently caress Bosch appliances.

I'm waiting for a replacement wiring harness for the oven/microwave combo at my house, and just got notice that the one I bought for my parents house blew out again. Service call number 4 for my unit, number 5 for theirs.

Absolute garbage.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

So what are these metal doors near my furnace for? I can open them up and it appears to be a cutout through my foundation to something else…



Only thing I can think of is an ash deposit for the fireplace.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


nwin posted:

So what are these metal doors near my furnace for? I can open them up and it appears to be a cutout through my foundation to something else…



Only thing I can think of is an ash deposit for the fireplace.

Razor blades. PO was melting them down for scrap.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

adnam posted:

I was reading some vinegar v. Flow-Aide arguments

According to the SDS it's Hydrogen Chloride aka HCl in an inhibitor. I would go with that vs plain white vinegar. It's going to be far more reactive to the things in your tank unless you buy higher % acetic acid and dilute it yourself. (Don't buy HCl and DIY it unless you're a process chemist by trade, you'll also depipe your scales in addition to descaling your pipes.)

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I. M. Gei posted:

If this is what happened, and I don't deny that it might be, then I don't know how to prove it unless Wikileaks can magically get their hands on a recording of that call that doesn't exist.

When I called the installers yesterday they read the measurements in their system back to me and they were correct. I can try seeing what measurements Lowes got, but since the installer is the customer in this case and not us, I'm not sure if that'll go anywhere.

The installers refused to discount us other than charging 90% of the labor for the installed windows that day and the other 10% when the other one gets put in, on the basis that we (and by "we" here I mean my father, the homeowner) already signed a form agreeing to it, which I don't know how to fight that poo poo and I kinda doubt it's worth it to try.
Who measured the windows and who ordered them? if its the contractor its 100% their problem to fix.

things begin to get complicated if others got involved.

meatpimp posted:

Just an update on gently caress Bosch appliances.

I'm waiting for a replacement wiring harness for the oven/microwave combo at my house, and just got notice that the one I bought for my parents house blew out again. Service call number 4 for my unit, number 5 for theirs.

Absolute garbage.
Never had a Bosch oven of any sort, but our dishwashers and laundry sets have been amazing and perfectly trouble free and reliable. Sucks about your oven/mw tho

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Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




We recently had quite the hailstorm and I'm getting a new roof out of the deal. The contractor I've spoken to says they primarily use GAF Timberline HDZ and GAF Timberline Harvest. The problem is that I want blue shingles and GAF doesn't make blue shingles, but Owens Corning does in their True Definition Duration line. Looks like the price per bundle is within a buck or so between the brands, so I don't expect the contractor to have a problem with that. Are the Owens Corning shingles any better or worse than the GAF shingles?

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