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Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Hadlock posted:

These are the ones with the 8 bit, super noisy main board, right

Yeah. The creality board with silent steppers seems to be up around $50 now, unfortunately. But, if someone grabbed that and the aluminum extruder arm and stiffer bed springs they'd be in pretty good shape. I'd still suggest the V2 for a first printer since there's less to do to it but the option is there and it's a good deal for yet another printer.

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a7m2
Jul 9, 2012


How silly would it be to print 28mm terrain on a resin printer because I don't have the space for a filament printer? Has anyone ITT done it? I figure if hollowed the amount of resin shouldn't be TOO bad and I can probably cut up pieces of terrain to fit on the build plate well enough

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
Terrain is one of the few 28mm things you can print properly on a filament printer. Unless you need to print trees or something into your scene it's a waste on resin.
Do a centerpiece like a fountain model or a detailed ruin to scratch the itch, then trade work with someone who has a filament printer. I mean unless you're talking about a month of print time / a full openlock set. In that case you might need to bribe them.

Vaporware fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Jun 16, 2022

MarxCarl
Jul 18, 2003

Hadlock posted:

These are the ones with the 8 bit, super noisy main board, right

Mine, from the last special, came with the 4.2.2 board, which is 32bit. Creality did make a production change to the board and the newer ones have a GD32 processor instead of the STM32. I think it has the loud stepper chips.

If you get a 4.2.2 board with a GD32 chip, stick to the stock firmware, if you can. I got a blue screen after a test print and went down a rabbit hole of finding good firmware. The ones on Crealitys site are old Marlin, 1.something and didn’t recognize the sd card slot(least on mine). Stock Marlin doesn’t support the GD32, see https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/23806, so don’t update to that as it causes Z-axis issues. On mine the z-axis would be fine for the first layer, and then randomly choose a Z offset up or down, which is why I have a PEI build plate now.

I have found this firmware that works https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/downl...-v4-2-x-board/. Least it doesn’t have a Z offset issue. I just run Octoprint now which is nice.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Hadlock posted:

These are the ones with the 8 bit, super noisy main board, right

Yeah, I didn’t realize the Pro was actually in the lower end of the Ender line and I wound up not getting it.

a7m2
Jul 9, 2012


Vaporware posted:

Terrain is one of the few 28mm things you can print properly on a filament printer. Unless you need to print trees or something into your scene it's a waste on resin.
Do a centerpiece like a fountain model or a detailed ruin to scratch the itch, then trade work with someone who has a filament printer. I mean unless you're talking about a month of print time / a full openlock set. In that case you might need to bribe them.

I don't know anyone with a filament printer. Are services where you can order prints generally expensive?

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


a7m2 posted:

How silly would it be to print 28mm terrain on a resin printer because I don't have the space for a filament printer? Has anyone ITT done it? I figure if hollowed the amount of resin shouldn't be TOO bad and I can probably cut up pieces of terrain to fit on the build plate well enough

There's plenty of terrain designed for resin printers.
Don't try and print fdm terrain unless you're prepared to waste a lot of money or put in a bunch of effort getting the print ready.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

a7m2 posted:

I don't know anyone with a filament printer. Are services where you can order prints generally expensive?

More expensive than printing yourself if you have the printer, less expensive than buying a machine (for single prints).

A whole terrain set? Probably better off buying a printer if cost savings is your goal vs. headaches if you make mistakes.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

a7m2 posted:

I don't know anyone with a filament printer. Are services where you can order prints generally expensive?

Real solution if you don't want to get a printer. Find a local makerspace or 3d printing group and go from there

(An ender 3 is like $150, but I get it if space/cost/time is a concern)

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
Question for the thread, my dad just had a recent spinal surgery, and he's having a lot of trouble with movement at the moment. Currently he seems to be lacking in assistive technology, even primitive stuff like larger handled spoons that are easier for him to hold. Does anyone have any links to some good 3D prints for assistive tech for mobility impaired people? I looked around on printables but I didn't see much.

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



Talorat posted:

Question for the thread, my dad just had a recent spinal surgery, and he's having a lot of trouble with movement at the moment. Currently he seems to be lacking in assistive technology, even primitive stuff like larger handled spoons that are easier for him to hold. Does anyone have any links to some good 3D prints for assistive tech for mobility impaired people? I looked around on printables but I didn't see much.

You probably have already seen this but I figure I'll post it: https://www.med3dp.com/assistive-devices

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Thanks for the replies and the recommendation for the Prusi Mini Plus. Would SainSmart - 101-90-164 be a good TPU filament to start with?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

SkunkDuster posted:

Thanks for the replies and the recommendation for the Prusi Mini Plus. Would SainSmart - 101-90-164 be a good TPU filament to start with?

Print some PLA first, figure out how it works.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



SkunkDuster posted:

Thanks for the replies and the recommendation for the Prusi Mini Plus. Would SainSmart - 101-90-164 be a good TPU filament to start with?

Ya as ImplicitAssembler said, start with PLA! Prusaslicer material settings work pretty well but bowden extruders with TPU is a bit more advanced.

I've been printing some of these infill swatches for the hell of it.



Really love the Translucent Prusament PETG Neon Green, it has the best surface finish of any PETG along with the Galaxy Black.

The blue is Polymaker ASA I bought a while back, it prints so/so, going to try drying it.

Prusament Galaxy Black ASA:


I can't stop buying filament, I have more coming too!

One other thing, I did this slightly ridiculous voron based "stealthyswiss" remix shroud after installing the micro swiss direct drive kit. I would never recommend it though as it provides zero access to the extruder... probably going to replace it soon! The print came out pretty nice though with Snolabs Polycarbonate+

Opinionated fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jun 16, 2022

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




ImplicitAssembler posted:

Print some PLA first, figure out how it works.

I'm fine with learning on PLA, but the final product will need to be very flexible so I'll eventually transition to TPU (unless there is a better suggestion). They want these parts yesterday, so I want to get everything ordered and on-hand so I can move as quickly as possible. That's why I'm asking if the SainSmart TPU is good or if I should get something different.

Gadzuko
Feb 14, 2005

SkunkDuster posted:

I'm fine with learning on PLA, but the final product will need to be very flexible so I'll eventually transition to TPU (unless there is a better suggestion). They want these parts yesterday, so I want to get everything ordered and on-hand so I can move as quickly as possible. That's why I'm asking if the SainSmart TPU is good or if I should get something different.

If time is an issue the Prusa may be a problem, I had one ordered at the end of November last year and got it in mid March. Something to keep in mind.

E: actually may have been April I think. It's a lengthy delay, anyway

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Gadzuko posted:

If time is an issue the Prusa may be a problem, I had one ordered at the end of November last year and got it in mid March. Something to keep in mind.

E: actually may have been April I think. It's a lengthy delay, anyway

I noticed that. It says 9-10 weeks for the unassembled model and 1-2 week lead time for the partially assembled model for $30 more. I'm going to buy the partially assembled one and hope that their lead times are accurate.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




SkunkDuster posted:

Thanks for the replies and the recommendation for the Prusi Mini Plus. Would SainSmart - 101-90-164 be a good TPU filament to start with?

So
1. You will need to get your feet wet with PLA first, as others have said
2. TPU is ... funny. If you buy PLA from Sainsmart or Polymaker or Overture or Anycubic or Prusa, it's all pretty much the same. 99% the same.
TPU comes in completely different formulations, so there are super stiff TPUs that are good for e.g. RC car tires and there are super loose TPUs that are good for super loose flexible octopus toys. You would need to be a looooot more specific about your needs other than just asking for "a good brand"

insta
Jan 28, 2009

SkunkDuster posted:

Thanks for the replies and the recommendation for the Prusi Mini Plus. Would SainSmart - 101-90-164 be a good TPU filament to start with?

I hate to say it, but without a lot more experience this is a lot like "I have a shooting competition next week. Are rifles the long ones or the short L shaped ones?"

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

You're probably better off buying a used one if they need it ASAP

Also the learning curve is really steep, and painfully slow because printers are slow so you only get to learn, or partially learn one lesson per day, and there's about 50 lessons

Strong agree with gun analogy above

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sockser posted:

2. TPU is ... funny. If you buy PLA from Sainsmart or Polymaker or Overture or Anycubic or Prusa, it's all pretty much the same. 99% the same.

Prusa is different, for sure. It’s better and more reliable than the others. Unless you meant settings wise, then yeah I agree.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

SkunkDuster posted:

I'm fine with learning on PLA, but the final product will need to be very flexible so I'll eventually transition to TPU (unless there is a better suggestion). They want these parts yesterday, so I want to get everything ordered and on-hand so I can move as quickly as possible. That's why I'm asking if the SainSmart TPU is good or if I should get something different.

TPU is a giant pain to print. It's not dimensionally stable, it lives to ooze and strings like crazy. It doesn't take supports well if at all. It also prints very very slowly. You might be better served making a mold and casting urethane. Your resin printer can make the molds.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




sharkytm posted:

TPU is a giant pain to print. It's not dimensionally stable, it lives to ooze and strings like crazy. It doesn't take supports well if at all. It also prints very very slowly. You might be better served making a mold and casting urethane. Your resin printer can make the molds.

Casting is an idea I hadn't considered, but I can definitely see how that could speed things up, reduce failures, and make for cleaner parts.

As far as flexiblity of the TPU (for the time being), I'm looking along the lines of bike tire flexibility.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
Speaking of the cricut stuff above, is there anything like octoprint or klipper for the cricut machines? I kind've want to dedicate a minipc to it to keep that crap off of my main laptop/desktop. I guess I can just throw a minipc in the garage and rdp to it if that's the "best" option.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Doctor Zero posted:

Prusa is different, for sure. It’s better and more reliable than the others. Unless you meant settings wise, then yeah I agree.

Oh yeah Prusament is leagues above every other PLA but it is still PLA

You cannot say the same about TPU because different formulations have different levels of flex and give, was my point

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
3D printing is cool.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

3D printing is cool.

What is best about 3d printing?

Fanged Lawn Wormy
Jan 4, 2008

SQUEAK! SQUEAK! SQUEAK!

Marshal Prolapse posted:

3D printing is cool.

[/billnyevoice][/fisheyelens]

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Doctor Zero posted:

What is best about 3d printing?

To not crush your prints, see them extrude before you, and to hear the lamentation of the fan motor.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

To not crush your prints, see them extrude before you, and to hear the lamentation of the fan motor.

:perfect:

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

To not crush your prints, see them extrude before you, and to hear the lamentation of the fan motor.

Printin dis for my enclosure

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?

Unperson_47 posted:

You probably have already seen this but I figure I'll post it: https://www.med3dp.com/assistive-devices

I had not seen that yet! Thank you! That’s exactly what I was looking for!

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

sharkytm posted:

TPU is a giant pain to print. It's not dimensionally stable, it lives to ooze and strings like crazy. It doesn't take supports well if at all. It also prints very very slowly. You might be better served making a mold and casting urethane. Your resin printer can make the molds.

All of this is true, but if you have a direct drive extruder and you are willing to spend the time to tune a profile, it can print absolutely wonderfully. I found masking tape works best for bed adhesion. You really, really need to get the temp right though and yeah supports are not going to happen.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Vaporware posted:

Printin dis for my enclosure

Please post a picture when you do.

PlaneGuy
Mar 28, 2001

g e r m a n
e n g i n e e r i n g

Yam Slacker
re mini delta, i've got a v1 and it's a fun little machine when you get it working. I've done a bunch of trinkets and at least one upgrade to itself on it. I imported an old slic3r profile into superslicer from the mini delta wiki and it's really good like night and day to the cura profile i found.


meanwhile, I'm wrapping up a voron 2.4 build! it's gonna be frickin' sweet. did you know the spring steel build surface is mandatory if you chose the right inductive probe? me neither! now i'm getting a buddy to print a klicky mount in resin (it's all he's got) so i can make a probe that'll work with my chosen build surface that won't melt itself off the toolhead. it's so frustrating to have it all move and heat up perfectly only to have the whole thing stalled at the finish line

to bring it all back, the not-right-next-to-the-hotend-for-hours parts of that probe will be printed in pla... on my mini-delta :yeshaha:

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



Sockser posted:

Oh yeah Prusament is leagues above every other PLA but it is still PLA

You cannot say the same about TPU because different formulations have different levels of flex and give, was my point

Prusament PLA is great but I almost like the filament-pm stuff that comes with the mk3s+ more, it's probably my favorite PLA I've used. Haven't really done side by side comparisons though, but I have both in silver.

Hedningen
May 4, 2013

Enough sideburns to last a lifetime.
Bit of a loose end here: the z-limit switch on my Elegoo Saturn has died thanks to straight-up snapping off into the body. I’ve pulled the sensor and have contacted support, but as I haven’t heard back I started wondering if I can just replace the part myself.

A bit of searching turned up that it’s an EE-SX673-WR, but what’s throwing me is that it’s going into a three-pin wire-to-board connector. I think this just means its set up in the NPN Dark ON settings, but I’m not sure and there’s surprisingly little information on this. Has anyone else done a replacement on this part?

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Opinionated posted:

Prusament PLA is great but I almost like the filament-pm stuff that comes with the mk3s+ more, it's probably my favorite PLA I've used. Haven't really done side by side comparisons though, but I have both in silver.

I agree, the filament PM silver was my best roll to date, although the prusament bronze PLA is a close second. Prints great, good medium gray, just sparkly enough to be "silver".
Prusament galaxy silver prints well but is closer to aluminum color.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

To not crush your prints, see them extrude before you, and to hear the lamentation of the fan motor.
Gonna take artistic license and go with

What is best in life?
To slice your prints, see them extrude before you, and hear the centrifugation of their fans!

Vaporware fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jun 18, 2022

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


I really want "hear the lamination of the layers" to make sense

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Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
I tried to work it in, but layers and women are definitely not going to rhyme.

Also I hate hearing the layers, it means the petg is balling up.

Maybe reverse the hear and see?

What is best in life?
To slice your prints, hear them extrude before you, and see the lamination of their layers

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