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I have a buddy who wants a motorcycle air intake part printed. Any recommendations on filament? I'm not exactly in a position to print nylon or anything with an active heated chamber. Happy to go grab a better nozzle etc if it's a case of printing something abrasive though. He says heat shouldn't be a massive issue because it's not exiting the motor or anything
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Jun 18, 2022 19:22
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w00tmonger posted:I have a buddy who wants a motorcycle air intake part printed. You could try PETG, but you can also print nylon without a heated chamber if you get something like Taulman Alloy 910 or even carbon fiber nylon if you don't mind destroying a brass nozzle or switching to a hardened steel one. I've printed both of those without an enclosure but you do definitely need to dehydrate them before printing because nylon loves to capture moisture. I used the eSun CF nylon but they have a new listing for it on amazon so I don't know if they're the same. Mine ended up having an almost papery or cardboardy feeling texture but it was also super hard to break, you basically have to cut it. Supports can be a challenge.
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Jun 18, 2022 19:33
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Rexxed posted:You could try PETG, but you can also print nylon without a heated chamber if you get something like Taulman Alloy 910 or even carbon fiber nylon if you don't mind destroying a brass nozzle or switching to a hardened steel one. I've printed both of those without an enclosure but you do definitely need to dehydrate them before printing because nylon loves to capture moisture. I used the eSun CF nylon but they have a new listing for it on amazon so I don't know if they're the same. Mine ended up having an almost papery or cardboardy feeling texture but it was also super hard to break, you basically have to cut it. Supports can be a challenge. currently looking at this carbon fiber nylon for the guy. https://filaments.ca/collections/all/products/heavy-duty-carbon-fiber-nylon-filament-1-75mm the Taulman Alloy 910 looks very appealing, but I'm having a hard time finding it in stock anywhere in canada
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Jun 18, 2022 20:37
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w00tmonger posted:currently looking at this carbon fiber nylon for the guy. This is a PA6 based on the print temp. Good luck. Hardened nozzle only. Dry the plastic ridiculously well. However much you think you've dried it, it's not enough. "oh I put it in a sealed box with dessicant" nah you didn't do poo poo. Nylons need hours of forced-air heat to drive the moisture out, and active dessicant to absorb the hot air. A convection oven @ 110C for 12-16 hours is good on a new spool. It will actively absorb moisture whenever it's below 99C too, because it's a hateful material.
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Jun 18, 2022 22:06
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w00tmonger posted:currently looking at this carbon fiber nylon for the guy. Alloy 910 is very easy to print. It will be dry out of the box, but you do need to store it in a dry box. (And yeah, none of my usual Canadian supplies any longer stock it ).
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Jun 19, 2022 07:24
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If anyone's in the NJ area, I've got 31 spools of various PLA/ABS colors and sheens that I'm looking to sell on SA-Mart: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4004922 Been outta the printing game for a bit and I need the storage boxes that these were in.
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Jun 20, 2022 00:39
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w00tmonger posted:I have a buddy who wants a motorcycle air intake part printed. https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/apollox-2779 I've heard this stuff is good too. ASA based filament, so good UV and weather resistance.
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Jun 20, 2022 05:31
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Opinionated posted:https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/apollox-2779 Warning, do not print this ApolloX directly on a PEI build plate, it will rip it clean off! I ruined one side of a prusa textured sheet with this!
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Jun 20, 2022 05:50
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Yea ASA supposedly sticks too well to powder-coated PEI, it's recommended to use a PEI satin sheet with an interface adhesive to reduce over bonding. I learned this after also trying to use ASA with powder-coated PEI, fortunately it didn't rip a chunk out.
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Jun 20, 2022 06:30
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Well, the filaments.ca ASA I use never gave me any trouble. It was only when I bought a roll of ApolloX that the incident occurred
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Jun 20, 2022 06:46
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I recently had prints popping off the bed with settings that previously gas been fine. Then once i got them to stick the layers were peeling apart in their own. Spent like an entire day trying to figure out WTF eas wrong before i realized I had grabbed an oddball ABS spool that i had laying around, and in fact, that doesn’t print well with PLA settings.
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Jun 20, 2022 17:04
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ASA is my favorite filament so far (Polylite ASA in black).
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Jun 20, 2022 17:25
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dexefiend posted:ASA is my favorite filament so far (Polylite ASA in black). Do you have any trouble with warping / corners lifting? I usually just add some antiwarp tabs with a brim in the slicer to help but this roll of Polylite ASA Blue I have is warping a lot more than the prusament asa I got. This is after drying it and everything. Polymaker is my usual go-to and it's maybe just my inexperience with the material. I've printed a decent amount of ABS though and spot a lot of the similarities in printing issues.
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Jun 20, 2022 19:14
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I did get some annoying warping on a 25cm x 25cm platform I printed (wargaming terrain). I attributed it to user error. I will pay more attention next time.
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Jun 20, 2022 21:24
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I made a remix, but never really paid attention to the last part - releasing it. I think I understand the share alike license, but are there secret gotchas around this? I mean other than I'm tech support forever afterwards if it is broken in some way. I emailed the original creator for explicit blessings, but I think they're cool with it since I asked if they'd do it for me  and they suggested a remix. anything else I need to do other than double check it works?
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Jun 20, 2022 22:32
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You don't have to distribute anything you make that builds on something licensed under share-alike or similar copyleft licenses - you can make something just for yourself and as long as you keep it to yourself that's fine. It's just that if you do distribute it, it has to be under the same or a compatible license. And you are definitely not tech support for it unless you want to be, CC BY-SA 4.0 (and most similar licenses too) has a disclaimer that you make no warranties or claims about the licensed product being useful for anything whatsoever (unless you specifically claim otherwise).
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Jun 21, 2022 01:39
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Hi goons and goonettes Finally got a 3D printer, used Tina2 small, cheap, and broken. Just a fan and the hotend wires popped out of the plug which was fun. It runs fine now, have an issue with the bottoms of the prints, though they would be smooth as sharks but they are rough as something that rough, diamonds probably. Made this 1kg filament roll holder upper thing for the printer, can't remember what plate adhesion I used for that probably brim, but even without any support the bottoms will look like that  Try to print everything so that the part you can't see is the bottom, but sometimes it's not possible or not the most optimal position. What setting I should change to get it looks at least as good as the sides?  Using Cura 4.10 cause it came with the printer and cant get anything else to work.
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Jun 21, 2022 09:29
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It looks perfectly normal to me. Also sharks aren't smooth
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Jun 21, 2022 09:42
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Might need to adjust the nozzle down (or the bed up) to close the gap between the two a little bit more for your first layer, but that's really pretty good overall. the shark thing is a running joke in a lot of subforums
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Jun 21, 2022 11:46
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BMan posted:It looks perfectly normal to me. Also sharks aren't smooth The top of my head is smooth.
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Jun 21, 2022 12:29
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Okay, was hoping to get the bottom to match the top. That looks something like this. Prototype duct to get the fan blowing more directly on the print. It doesn't work, bigger ones melt and that one drops off. Should get some heat-resistant materials, but I never remember. Or rather should get a blower fan and make a housing for it and take power from the heated bed socket or something like that. Guess printing in weird angles could get better surfaces, but then I have to play around with the supports.  sharkytm posted:The top of my head is smooth.  For smooth shark information https://imgur.com/gallery/ad3je
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Jun 21, 2022 17:01
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I have a pretty heavily modded Anycubic i3 Mega. The hotend has been heating kinda slowly recently and barely keeping temp at higher print speeds, but yesterday it became unable to reach 225C and start prints before marlin's thermal protection kicks in. Since my extruder stopped heating properly yesterday, I have taken some troubleshooting steps:
it's an Anycubic Trigorilla board, one of the older ones where you can swap in decent stepper drivers. Looks like there are clones on amazon for ~$30 but I'd love to not throw unnecessary money at this thing. And if I do have to throw money at it, maybe an SKR or something makes more sense? This is a pretty conventional i3 layout machine, the only unique thing from an electronics standpoint is that it has dual Z steppers.
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Jun 22, 2022 05:27
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I don't see that you replaced the thermistor. They do fail eventually.
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Jun 22, 2022 05:44
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insta posted:I don't see that you replaced the thermistor. They do fail eventually. I can give it a shot if the board comes back to life, but it's actually a fairly new thermistor, maybe a year old. I destroyed the original glass bead thermistor during a nozzle swap and replaced it with a nice M3 stud one.
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Jun 22, 2022 05:49
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I'd double check that the block isn't heating some metal on the support it shouldn't be. Usually this just ends up with heat creep but it's possible it could cause it to fail to get to temp if it has some runaway protection, I guess.
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Jun 22, 2022 07:37
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Rexxed posted:I'd double check that the block isn't heating some metal on the support it shouldn't be. Usually this just ends up with heat creep but it's possible it could cause it to fail to get to temp if it has some runaway protection, I guess. Nah the block wasn't touching anything. Also the original issue is kind of academic if I can't rescue the board, and I came here to ask for guidance on figuring out what's wrong with that
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Jun 22, 2022 21:12
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cephalopods posted:And if I do have to throw money at it, maybe an SKR or something makes more sense? I set up a skr mini e3 2.0 for my diy corexy (hypercube) and it's fairly straightforward to build marlin 2.0 for it. The silent drivers are very nice. Connecting a display was a little hellish, I had to order a stock cr-10 display and use a special cable to get it working. It looks like it has connectors for dual z axis but I only used one.
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Jun 22, 2022 21:19
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A little off topic, but I posted earlier about printing with rubber filament and somebody suggested making a master copy with my resin printer and casting the parts in flexible resin. That definitely seems the way to go. For a flexible casting resin, I need something in the Shore A 90-100 range or Shore D 40-50 range. I found some Shore A 90 polyurethane casting resin, but it only has a 3 minute working time. I'm planning to use a vacuum chamber to degass the resin and cast several parts at once, so 3 minutes is pretty limiting. Any ideas on a flexible casting resin in those hardness ranges with a working time of 30 minutes or more?
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Jun 23, 2022 03:01
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mewse posted:I set up a skr mini e3 2.0 for my diy corexy (hypercube) and it's fairly straightforward to build marlin 2.0 for it. The silent drivers are very nice. I'm not too concerned with keeping the anycubic touchscreen alive - it'd be nice, but I have octoprint anyway. And I'm seeing that board for $40-50 compared to $30 for the knockoff anycubic part with mediocre reviews. If I end up needing a board swap, I might as well go that route. I'd still rather not need to do a board swap though 
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Jun 23, 2022 03:25
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SkunkDuster posted:A little off topic, but I posted earlier about printing with rubber filament and somebody suggested making a master copy with my resin printer and casting the parts in flexible resin. That definitely seems the way to go. For a flexible casting resin, I need something in the Shore A 90-100 range or Shore D 40-50 range. I found some Shore A 90 polyurethane casting resin, but it only has a 3 minute working time. I'm planning to use a vacuum chamber to degass the resin and cast several parts at once, so 3 minutes is pretty limiting. Any ideas on a flexible casting resin in those hardness ranges with a working time of 30 minutes or more? https://www.smooth-on.com/category/urethane-resin/ Pretty sure you can find what you need here.
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Jun 23, 2022 03:34
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Captain Kosmos posted:Try to print everything so that the part you can't see is the bottom, That is absolutely the wrong philosophy Print everything in the orientation that requires the least amount of internal supports, followed by the least amount of supports, followed by strongest layer lines Is generally how I approach it Your bottom finish should be good enough that it does not matter
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Jun 23, 2022 03:46
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cephalopods posted:I'm not too concerned with keeping the anycubic touchscreen alive - it'd be nice, but I have octoprint anyway. And I'm seeing that board for $40-50 compared to $30 for the knockoff anycubic part with mediocre reviews. If I end up needing a board swap, I might as well go that route. The other thing I had a problem with was endstops - board expects ender connectors so has 2 pin headers for endstops, I had to pull the red wire out of my uh.. cheapo reprap endstops and put the pins in new 2-pin dupont connectors. Not sure what style of endstop is on that anycubic machine.
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Jun 23, 2022 04:14
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Is building your own printer anymore a thing? Looking at youtube most of the videos are old and Indian, not native English speaker, have ADHD, and are dyslectic so understanding them takes a lot of effort. It would be nice to build a printer that would be maximumly sized for my tiny apartment with mean wifey that doesn't like my ugly noisy things and kids sticking fingers into everything. Sockser posted:That is absolutely the wrong philosophy If printing something that's functional yeah, but when printing something that is only supposed to look nice I rather print so you cant see the underside, either by slicing the model in half and making some locking mechanism or just printing it so that underside stays down. Just have to balance out these things.
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Jun 23, 2022 08:01
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Captain Kosmos posted:Is building your own printer anymore a thing? Looking at youtube most of the videos are old and Indian, not native English speaker, have ADHD, and are dyslectic so understanding them takes a lot of effort. Voron's exist only homebuilts. There's a few other printer ecosystems that are (i'm going to say common..) common.. But really not worth mentioning. Build your own? Sure. People do that. The everything on printersforants is homebulit. The hottest thing to keep your eye on is the positron printer design. There are designs on thingiverse. There's the Makergear Micro. If you're "really about making your own" there's some real questions to ask. I mean, starting with "what isn't available already?" Then, can you figure out, or justify what makes a good printer?
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Jun 23, 2022 08:54
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Nerobro posted:Prusa's come as kits. Almost every printer needs some assembly. Depending on what you mean by "build your own." Few printers are "pull from a box and print." Mostly I want to decide myself how big the printer itself is. Thinking 30*30*30cm so it fits snugly into one of those Ikea shelves. Run into Voron almost imminently after writing that, but couldn't figure out can you build them custom-sized or what. At work, so don't really have time really go into it. Know that most printers are kits or have some degree of assembly. Mine (Tina2) is one of those ready out-of-the-box ones. Reason for getting it was that it fitted one of those Ikea cabinets, also price.
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Jun 23, 2022 09:04
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It kind of depends what you're going for, but in general, building your own will be more expensive than buying a printer. At least that's true if you get something like a creality or another less expensive brand of prebuilt printer. A lot of the build your own stuff are for higher performance setups like the Voron where you're buying high quality parts so you get a really solid motion system with linear rails instead of rollers in v-slot aluminum or what have you. They're generally designed to print fast so spending a grand or more on one saves you time while printing. Not while building, though. If you need the total external size to be a certain amount there's some enclosed printers or printers that don't sling the bed that have a rectangular frame that might be worth looking at. I'm not sure which ones are favored right now but I think at least one goon got an Ender 5. If you just want the build volume to be 30x30x30 that's kind of an unusual build volume since the z-height is usually 40cm or higher if the bed is 30x30. That's like a CR-10 standard size but there's others like the Artillery Sidewinder that is a bit newer and seems to be popular with youtube 3d printer people.
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Jun 23, 2022 09:40
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Captain Kosmos posted:Mostly I want to decide myself how big the printer itself is. Thinking 30*30*30cm so it fits snugly into one of those Ikea shelves. Run into Voron almost imminently after writing that, but couldn't figure out can you build them custom-sized or what. At work, so don't really have time really go into it.
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Jun 23, 2022 11:20
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SkunkDuster posted:A little off topic, but I posted earlier about printing with rubber filament and somebody suggested making a master copy with my resin printer and casting the parts in flexible resin. That definitely seems the way to go. For a flexible casting resin, I need something in the Shore A 90-100 range or Shore D 40-50 range. I found some Shore A 90 polyurethane casting resin, but it only has a 3 minute working time. I'm planning to use a vacuum chamber to degass the resin and cast several parts at once, so 3 minutes is pretty limiting. Any ideas on a flexible casting resin in those hardness ranges with a working time of 30 minutes or more? It was me. ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.smooth-on.com/category/urethane-resin/ And this is what I'd say. Smooth on makes a huge variety and I've found them to be very reliable. Definitely vacuum degas, and you have to make the molds to accommodate casting. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jun 23, 2022 |
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Jun 23, 2022 14:25
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.smooth-on.com/category/urethane-resin/ Thanks. The Clear Flex 95 looks like it should work and I sent them a message to see what other similar options they might recommend.
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Jun 23, 2022 14:25
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Captain Kosmos posted:Mostly I want to decide myself how big the printer itself is. Thinking 30*30*30cm so it fits snugly into one of those Ikea shelves. Run into Voron almost imminently after writing that, but couldn't figure out can you build them custom-sized or what. At work, so don't really have time really go into it. Voron or Hypercube. Building a custom is usually done because you have a specific need in mind, or you want a really fast corexy. If you're just looking for something that will fit in a specific place, probably don't go this route. 30cm cubed is not much total volume for a printer, your bed size will be pretty limited. e: also i think you're going about this backward, it's infinitely cheaper to get a shelf that fits a printer than to build a printer that fits a shelf.
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Jun 23, 2022 15:16
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