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RabbitWizard posted:Found an article about strange layer lines and I thought it would be interesting to some of you too. The thing I printed was a puzzlebox with a labyrinth on the inside which fits the requirements for this kind of "error", I wish I had known about it sooner because I wasted so much time on it. God bless you now I can stop caring about it instead of constantly thinking I messed up tightening something
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Jun 30, 2022 18:20
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| # ? May 29, 2024 21:42 |
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Opinionated posted:Nice I like that a lot. I need to get a device like that, how do you like it? If it's good can you post that stl too, I may have to adapt it~ The induction heater I bought to use w/ the dynavap actually, and it's amazing for that. Using it as intended as a dab rig is a more recent thing, and it works but is a little messy and finnicky. It does spare me using a torch at the desk. I don't hate it now that I don't need a third hand for it but idk if I'd recommend it as a main dab rig. https://file.io/8WWn74l1b5Pq e: here's the dry catch but it's sold out https://www.smokecartel.com/collections/ashcatcher/products/pulsar-bent-drop-down-ash-catcher-14mm poverty goat fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jul 1, 2022 |
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Jul 1, 2022 12:48
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Anyone have a good go-to calculator for pricing 3d prints? Really not sure how I should be tracking/charging for FDM
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Jul 1, 2022 23:59
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have a good go-to calculator for pricing 3d prints? You start at triple material cost. Then.. The rest is really quite fungible. "hourly" seems to be common, but when you've got guys like me who print everything ~fast~.. and then people who never alter default profiles... So that doesn't seem fair. You're gonna need to do some soul searching to get a real good answer there. I usually just have people buy me the filament.
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Jul 2, 2022 06:15
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Currently doing a PETG print and this the first time I've used a glue stick on the glass bed. That first layer went down beautifully and my crazy tree supports are actually looking like not a total mess. If it pops off more easily, too, then I have to give the cheap rear end glue stick trick a thumbs up.
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Jul 2, 2022 11:09
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Petg sticks really well on my anycubic's stick glass bed when it's very clean. Glue stick works too but I've learned that all I really need to do is clean it very well with alcohol when it starts loving up.
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Jul 2, 2022 12:12
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Nerobro posted:You start at triple material cost.  Nerobro posted:I usually just have people buy me the filament.
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Jul 2, 2022 13:34
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have a good go-to calculator for pricing 3d prints? i've done lots of anime and cosplay props for people. i searched long and hard to an answer for this question. i've been asked "this is so good, you should make this a business?" and what i came up with was "i'm not leaving my day job to make plastic garbage for assholes". so if i won't do it for free, i don't do it. i usually trade labor with a few friends, otherwise none of my cosplays would ever get tailored or wigs styled.
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Jul 2, 2022 15:14
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poverty goat posted:Petg sticks really well on my anycubic's stick glass bed when it's very clean. Glue stick works too but I've learned that all I really need to do is clean it very well with alcohol when it starts loving up. Be careful with that. Petg sticks SO well to clean glass that a large print can take a chunk out of your bed as a result.
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Jul 2, 2022 16:11
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have a good go-to calculator for pricing 3d prints? What I did was sat down with a spreadsheet and figured out for each part the cost of materials, including an estimate for hardware and maintenance, electricity, supplies, etc and all, calculated a total cost and said “nobody would ever pay this and it would take hours to price new models” and scrapped it all. Then I looked at what others were charging for similar things, decided what *I* would think is a fair price for them, calculated the cost of material, and then divided these to get an average multiplier for each unit of material (g of resin or filament) and just multiplied the material used by that. THEN I found that it made for some ludicrously high and low numbers that I would need to adjust manually for large models and small models respectively, so I scrapped THAT too. Next what I did is put the cost of material I use into the slicer and then take the estimated cost to print and multiply it by a certain number based on size, but found THAT was a pain in the rear end to do for every model as well. SO NOW what I did is looked at typical models that I sell (tiny, small, normal, large, huge, vehicles) and set an MSRP number for each category based upon the cost of material multiplier, and just use that for 90% of my figures. At my volumes, it’s just not worth spending a lot of time being super exact. If I get custom requests, or have models (especially terrain and large vehicles) that don’t really fit the categories, I’ll fall back to the cost of material x multiplier method. I am 100% sure I make profit on this as I keep track of my costs, sales, and profit margins overall, just not at the item level. Hope this helps.
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Jul 2, 2022 16:31
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Back when I was still bothering to print things for money, I priced it based on mL of extruded filament, with each filament/layer height combo having a set price. And on top of that, a flat fee per print. With this you can combine both material cost and print time into a single "price per mL". and then throw out those calculations and wing it because that makes the prices for thin layers ridiculously high Another fun question is how the gently caress do you, as a self-taught amateur, charge for CADing things? A potent combination of low willingness to pay and impostor syndrome
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Jul 2, 2022 17:12
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Deviant posted:i've done lots of anime and cosplay props for people. I get asked the same kind of thing by well-meaning people who go "you could sell your painted minis, or paint other people's minis for money", and I usually reply with "the surest way to hate what you normally love doing for fun, is to turn it from your hobby into your job"
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Jul 2, 2022 18:08
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Be careful with that. Petg sticks SO well to clean glass that a large print can take a chunk out of your bed as a result. it's not bare glass, it's got some kind of surface. looks like this:  idk what it is but as long as it's clean petg sticks and releases well
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Jul 2, 2022 18:22
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poverty goat posted:it's not bare glass, it's got some kind of surface. looks like this: Do not try to pry a PETG part off that surface before it's cooled enough to release itself, or it'll take chunks of the surface with it This is why I use hair spray on mine even though adhesion is good without it
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Jul 2, 2022 18:55
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cephalopods posted:Do not try to pry a PETG part off that surface before it's cooled enough to release itself, or it'll take chunks of the surface with it good to know
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Jul 2, 2022 19:31
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Doctor Zero posted:What I did was sat down with a spreadsheet and figured out for each part the cost of materials, including an estimate for hardware and maintenance, electricity, supplies, etc and all, calculated a total cost and said “nobody would ever pay this and it would take hours to price new models” and scrapped it all. I think I'll aim for this, and I know you and me are in similar boats. I've been selling resin minis, and I've more or less been selling them based on time and how much bed space they take up. Actual cost to run the machine etc is basically zero, versus an FDM where power use seems like a real factor I guess really I should just sort out what my costs are and go from there, as a lot of the competition is really just people's expectations of price for a non-3d printed equivalent ( I'm selling dice towers etc)
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Jul 2, 2022 20:27
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Removing the print from the glue-sticked glass bed was a dream and actually cleaned up easily with the spatula. Normally, the transparent PETG I am using would be absolute bitch to pop off.
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Jul 2, 2022 20:52
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I do actually print as a side business, and my pricing model is: 5x filament cost for cheap plastic, 4x for exotics, plus $1.50/hr machine time, plus $25 pants-fee that eventually gets waived if I like working with the person or the order itself is expensive enough. Stop racing to the bottom.
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Jul 2, 2022 21:07
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I'm going to be goofing around with printing speaker enclosures. Is there a smarter way to make the walls of the print denser than just setting infill to 97%? The idea being that speaker enclosures need to be dense for their acoustics to work, of course.
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Jul 2, 2022 21:38
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More perimeters
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Jul 2, 2022 21:53
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Marsupial Ape posted:I'm going to be goofing around with printing speaker enclosures. Is there a smarter way to make the walls of the print denser than just setting infill to 97%? The idea being that speaker enclosures need to be dense for their acoustics to work, of course.
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Jul 2, 2022 21:55
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RabbitWizard posted:Pause the print or drill some holes into the stl / finished print, then fill with resin or something? That is actually a thing I've seen people do. They'll use cement. That's a bit beyond my interest.
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Jul 2, 2022 22:03
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I think what a lot of people forget when pricing prints is machine depreciation. How much did your machine cost? How many hours of run time does it take to generate enough cost in your labor (it's worth at least $30/hr fyi), components and consumables to equal the cost of the machine? I've found that I spend about $500 over approximately 3000 hours of operation on average, and that cost is the hourly cost when I'm printing for someone.
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Jul 2, 2022 22:54
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Marsupial Ape posted:I'm going to be goofing around with printing speaker enclosures. Is there a smarter way to make the walls of the print denser than just setting infill to 97%? The idea being that speaker enclosures need to be dense for their acoustics to work, of course. Perimeters is the setting you're looking for. Prusaslicer will tell you the wall dimensions based on your line width when you pick how many you want.
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Jul 2, 2022 23:08
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poverty goat posted:The induction heater I bought to use w/ the dynavap actually, and it's amazing for that. Using it as intended as a dab rig is a more recent thing, and it works but is a little messy and finnicky. It does spare me using a torch at the desk. I don't hate it now that I don't need a third hand for it but idk if I'd recommend it as a main dab rig. Much appreciated, yeah maybe I need something else. But cool setup regardless
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Jul 3, 2022 02:20
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insta posted:I do actually print as a side business, and my pricing model is: Not racing to the bottom at all. I feel my prices are very reasonable considering the print quality I produce. Oh, I know there are a lot of stores selling for less, but I get a good profit margin that I’m happy with. I have a feeling w00t and I are in a different business model than you. We print what are essentially commodity minis. NeurosisHead posted:I think what a lot of people forget when pricing prints is machine depreciation. How much did your machine cost? How many hours of run time does it take to generate enough cost in your labor (it's worth at least $30/hr fyi), components and consumables to equal the cost of the machine? I've found that I spend about $500 over approximately 3000 hours of operation on average, and that cost is the hourly cost when I'm printing for someone. I didn’t forget it, it’s just too much detail for my sales volume. It’s factored in an abstract way and that’s fine for me.
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Jul 3, 2022 03:16
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3D Printer Attempt #4 I decided I’m just getting that Ender 3 Pro for $99. It’s the last day of the Microcenter Coupon. I found $40 sitting in my drawer, so for $60 for a large build plate perfect for terrain. I’ll also see what I can do for D&D minis, so if it’s okayish (and I know Resin is best for minis) even better.
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Jul 3, 2022 16:15
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Marshal Prolapse posted:3D Printer Attempt #4 Worst case that thing will rip for terrain and large monsters. It's still solid for dnd purposes
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Jul 3, 2022 18:55
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w00tmonger posted:Worst case that thing will rip for terrain and large monsters. It's still solid for dnd purposes Find someone local that only has a resin printer and trade terrain for minis
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Jul 4, 2022 04:01
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w00tmonger posted:Worst case that thing will rip for terrain and large monsters. It's still solid for dnd purposes These are the dudes you want if you're going for D&D miniatures on an FDM printer: https://www.patreon.com/Printnpaintminiatures/posts There are a few others like them, but imo they're just about the best. Lots of variety, too. Enough that you can probably cover a good portion of your typical needs without resorting to resin. Extra bonus is that their models are all designed to print support-free on FDM and, at least in my experience, work flawlessly. You can also try to get away with printing models designed for resin on FDM. I used to do that with my Enders and had generally okay to good results, but you'll spend a lot of time supporting models and even more time physically removing the supports.
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Jul 4, 2022 05:27
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w00tmonger posted:Worst case that thing will rip for terrain and large monsters. It's still solid for dnd purposes Yeah I just wish it was a little faster for the end or three pro, but I’m not gonna lie that demo cat may have taken six hours but it really looks like nice. Like honestly the best thing I’ve had printed yet by far. I probably have to start just piece by piece upgrading it anyway, but luckily unlike say buy the new graphics card, upgrading 3-D printers is fairly inexpensive it seems. I should note that I need to get a new plate due to an earlier issue with the nozzle scratching it. That’s the reason for the kind of crushed bottom. But really even with that it looks great.  
Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jul 4, 2022 |
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Jul 4, 2022 20:55
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I've been playing around with homemade bi-color filament. It's pretty neat if you don't need to print anything too big. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3565827    
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Jul 4, 2022 22:42
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That's super weird but looks fun. I'm sure I'd forget to calculate how many grams I need and screw up my print for sure.
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Jul 5, 2022 01:32
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So a good ways back I asked about my resin prints getting a gummy layer of grime on them after prints. It was initially thought to be dirty IPA. As a result I was absolutely religious about filtering my IPA and it was still happening. I eventually started using a tooth brush to scrub everything I printed clean before curing and that was working, though it was tedious.This weekend I've finally found the culprit. My normal workflow has been to fire up one print a day at the end of the day, in the morning hang it off-level to drip dry, and then when I get back from work use the evening to deal with the print and then fire up another for the next day. Apparently this was letting a layer of resin air-dry on to it and create the gummy layer. This being a holiday weekend I managed to get everyone to let me alone and ran off like 15-20ish prints, dealing with each one immediately after printing and letting them drip excess resin for only an hour or so. None of this weekend's prints had to be scrubbed, just swished around in IPA to get the remaining loose resin off. So lesson learned and I wanted to share my mistake so nobody else does the dumb thing I was doing.
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Jul 5, 2022 01:48
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I am going to be using TPU tonight for the first time to make a simple donut shaped buffer/gasket for a microphone head. Is there anything special I need to know or can I just use the Cura settings?
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Jul 5, 2022 03:32
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If you get weird results then dry the filament before messing with settings.
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Jul 5, 2022 03:33
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It will be opened for the first time, tonight. It should come from the factory dry enough, right? Also, before anybody suggests it, I do have a used food dehydrator!
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Jul 5, 2022 04:40
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It may not come from the factory dry.
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Jul 5, 2022 04:50
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bird food bathtub posted:So a good ways back I asked about my resin prints getting a gummy layer of grime on them after prints. It was initially thought to be dirty IPA. As a result I was absolutely religious about filtering my IPA and it was still happening. I eventually started using a tooth brush to scrub everything I printed clean before curing and that was working, though it was tedious.This weekend I've finally found the culprit. Oh my god are you me what the gently caress
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Jul 5, 2022 05:08
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| # ? May 29, 2024 21:42 |
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Had a small oopsies this weekend on the voron I guess I got cocky and had just finished a long 12 hour print and wanted to print it again and hit reprint and walked away and woke up in the morning to this. Nice solid chunk here!  Thankfully, 20 minutes later with a heat gun and   We have separation! And finally all cleaned up!  I think the only thing I've lost is the thermistor and I have a couple coming in to replace it. Also, since it's all apart I'm going to go ahead and move to the stealthburner as well. So, lesson learned, don't get cocky and always make sure those first few layers go down!
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Jul 5, 2022 15:39
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