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The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Yeah I used to think the email receipts were dumb because I was being an angry old man and now I email receipt everything.

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Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Beef Of Ages posted:

Have you noticed a change in your advertising as a result? I am loathe to give them my actual email address and am simultaneously entirely too lazy to maintain a burner account in perpetuity.

I mean, I already spend a bunch of time looking at tool and house stuff on the Internet, I'm not sure how much it'll change anything.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

Cyrano4747 posted:

See also: why I hoard scraps and random extra bullshit.

Nothing feels better than needing some random unusual part for a project then discovering that you have something that will work sitting right there in an old coffee can on the shelf.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Cyrano4747 posted:

See also: why I hoard scraps and random extra bullshit.

oh yeah I use my wood scraps till they're too small then they're firewood. One time my wife tried to touch my wood and yelled at her.. you don't just touch a mans wood bucket.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

nitsuga posted:

You’ll be Ok, I promise.

thanks, I didn't know if it was a real issue or just legalese for them to put that in the instruction manual

you all may have noticed I have a bit of an anxiety issue - I engage in a lot of catastrophic thinking! but CBT has been helpful

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jul 3, 2022

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

actionjackson posted:

thanks, I didn't know if it was a real issue or just legalese for them to put that in the instruction manual

you all may have noticed I have a bit of an anxiety issue - I engage in a lot of catastrophic thinking! but CBT has been helpful

I hear you. It is sometimes a leap of faith with these things, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

SuperTeeJay
Jun 14, 2015

https://www.wayfair.co.uk/furniture/pdp/williston-forge-francisca-desk-icqy1072.html

I bought this table a few months ago and it has a back to front wobble that I have been able to 95% mitigate by squeezing a book between the table and the wall behind it, but there is still a (barely) perceptible movement in my monitor when typing.

The table wobbles wherever it’s placed and wedges under the feet (tried every which way) don’t help - is it just structurally unstable? If so, is there possibly a better solution than the book(short of fixing the table to the wall)?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Is it rocking or are some connections slipping/bending? If rocking then shim up whichever corner of the legs is high. If bending then tighten the bolts. If tightening the bolts doesn’t work then send it back because it is defective.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

thanks, I didn't know if it was a real issue or just legalese for them to put that in the instruction manual

you all may have noticed I have a bit of an anxiety issue - I engage in a lot of catastrophic thinking! but CBT has been helpful
Cock and ball torture? For anxiety??

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Well it will definitely take your mind off of whatever else is going on.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

withak posted:

Nothing feels better than needing some random unusual part for a project then discovering that you have something that will work sitting right there in an old coffee can on the shelf.

Counterpoint: stressing out and driving store to store to find the part you need, locating it 4 stores later, making the fix, going to put the spare/unused pieces away for safe keeping...

... And finding the exact part you needed 4 stores ago sitting on your shelf.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
It’s important to periodically rummage through the shelf so you know what is there.

floWenoL
Oct 23, 2002

bobua posted:

You can get an orbital sander with sander paper delivered for $23 bucks. There's a decent chance a 23 dollar orbital sander with survive through this job, but even if you end up buying 2 you're still ahead on the cost of gas to go get any other solution :shrug:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tacklife...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
disclaimer: I would never recommend this thing outside this literal situation.

Ah, I didn't know orbital sanders ran that cheap! I got a slightly more expensive version ($60 Bosch) since I figure it could come in handy later after all.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

Yah this or a sanding sponge like they use for drywall

Wood filler sands nicely

I started doing this with a manual tool where you put in your own sandpaper, but having to do it on a ladder with the tool facing up on a hot day made me go "gently caress this" and buy the orbital sander. However, after that got most of it, I went back and was able to feather the edges somewhat.



It doesn't look pretty, and you can see where I hosed up with the orbital sander, but it's at least mostly flat, and if I ever get a hankering to paint it it'll probably blend in quite nicely.

Thanks guys!

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Slugworth posted:

Cock and ball torture? For anxiety??

lol

people sometimes think I say CBD which might also be effective

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Paint question: can I put latex paint over alkyd primer?

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Paint question: can I put latex paint over alkyd primer?

Yes

elbkaida
Jan 13, 2008
Look!
I'm redecorating a bedroom and above the window there are some spots with flaky paint. When poking around the paint came loose right up to the sealant around the window. I'm thinking I'll have to redo the sealant there so it sits tight against the wall again and am wondering if it'll be possible to only redo part of it? Hoping I can cut some of it away until I come to the good part and then just fill in the part I remove. Or will I end up having to rip the whole thing off? The window frame is made of plastic.

Harold Fjord
Jan 3, 2004

elbkaida posted:

I'm redecorating a bedroom and above the window there are some spots with flaky paint. When poking around the paint came loose right up to the sealant around the window. I'm thinking I'll have to redo the sealant there so it sits tight against the wall again and am wondering if it'll be possible to only redo part of it? Hoping I can cut some of it away until I come to the good part and then just fill in the part I remove. Or will I end up having to rip the whole thing off? The window frame is made of plastic.

This might depend on what you find as you peel the sealant. I think you can certainly try this but it sounds like something that you want to be on the watch for signs that you do need to do more.


My bathroom piping recently started leaking into the kitchen ceiling. Because it was actively dripping after flush I suspected the toilet waste out, though the dripping wasn't obviously gross. But once I opened up the ceiling and ripped out most of the soaked drywall the lathes and everything above started to dry out and eventually I could no longer detect the leak although I assumed it had not been fixed cuz I hadn't done anything yet.

Yesterday I cleaned the wax out and put a new seal on the toilet. I didn't notice any obvious nastiness anywhere except coming directly off of the waist pipe from the sewer. How concerned should I be about potential yuckiness trapped between?

Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jul 4, 2022

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

I need to replace a bulb in an outdoor floodlight, but the screws are rusted to the point where there’s nothing left in the head for the screwdriver to grip. Also, is there a better solution for keeping it closed than screws that will rust out.



This is a cheap fixture that’s probably from when this place was gut remodeled in 2007, so if replacing it is less effort I’m open to that.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Vice grips.

As in, clamp the vice grips onto the thread end exposed there and turn left. Once it's broken loose you should be able to spin it with your fingers.

There's any manner of simple things to keep it closed. You can use a ziptie if you don't mind it being a little ugly. Then you can open it with a pair of wire cutters. Just walk down the home depot fastener aisle and use a little imagination.

CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jul 4, 2022

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

EPICAC posted:

I need to replace a bulb in an outdoor floodlight, but the screws are rusted to the point where there’s nothing left in the head for the screwdriver to grip. Also, is there a better solution for keeping it closed than screws that will rust out.



This is a cheap fixture that’s probably from when this place was gut remodeled in 2007, so if replacing it is less effort I’m open to that.

Vice grips and then use a stainless steel screw that won't rust to replace it. Though I'm in camp Fixture Replacement to so you can find something that you like and takes a normal bulb. The electrical work is pretty straightforward but I say that knowing that I'm comfortable with things like that and not everyone is.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



DaveSauce posted:

Counterpoint: stressing out and driving store to store to find the part you need, locating it 4 stores later, making the fix, going to put the spare/unused pieces away for safe keeping...

... And finding the exact part you needed 4 stores ago sitting on your shelf.

FYI: This cycle will accelerate as you age.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It takes a T3; I'd shitcan the whole thing.

If you can get to the plate screws behind the fixture, remove it from there, and work it down on a bench. Spray the screws with penetrant several times. Try to get them cracked loose using the Vise-Grip method previously described.

Should you succeed, replace the screws with stainless screws.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Replace the fixture with LEDs.

My place came with a large area lit up by six very similar fixtures with 300W bulbs in each. I replaced them with three of these and there's much more light at a fraction of the power draw.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

what does "2x4 construction" mean? I noticed my current bathroom exhaust fan, which is in the wall, is 3 5/8" deep, and this panasonic fan says "Low profile 3-3/8” depth fits virtually anywhere, including 2x4 construction." would it be fair to assume that the other fans that are 5-6" deep might not fit properly in my wall?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

actionjackson posted:

what does "2x4 construction" mean? I noticed my current bathroom exhaust fan, which is in the wall, is 3 5/8" deep, and this panasonic fan says "Low profile 3-3/8” depth fits virtually anywhere, including 2x4 construction." would it be fair to assume that the other fans that are 5-6" deep might not fit properly in my wall?

2x4 is the "nominal size" with actual size being 1.5"x3.5", so the cavity between studs is typically only 3.5". With the added thickness of drywall, a 3-3/8" fan should be able to sit flush in the cavity. I've never dealt with fans but I'd guess that most deeper fans are intended to extend into the ceiling.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

okay cool, thanks, I've been talking to an electrician about putting in this fan, using the 4 to 3" duct adapter

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Panason...0VSC1/303606606

I currently have this fan (wall installation) and 3" ducting

https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/688

it does look like the deeper ones are only for ceiling mount

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost
Lumber used to frame the walls of a building is either 2x4 or 2x6, 99% of the time (Exceptions are rare and not worth mentioning). Of note, 2” is actually 1.5”, 4” is actually 3.5”, and 6” is actually 5.5”. Your fan, being 3.375” tall, will fit into the 3.5” space provided by the 2x4 lumber.

2x4 used to be standard everywhere but newer homes use 2x6 more on exterior walls because you can pack more insulation into the walls

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

lil poopendorfer posted:

Lumber used to frame the walls of a building is either 2x4 or 2x6, 99% of the time (Exceptions are rare and not worth mentioning). Of note, 2” is actually 1.5”, 4” is actually 3.5”, and 6” is actually 5.5”. Your fan, being 3.375” tall, will fit into the 3.5” space provided by the 2x4 lumber.

2x4 used to be standard everywhere but newer homes use 2x6 more on exterior walls because you can pack more insulation into the walls

So looking into the wall, there will be lumber starting at 4" back for 2x4, and 6" back for 2x6?

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

actionjackson posted:

So looking into the wall, there will be lumber starting at 4" back for 2x4, and 6" back for 2x6?

What it's describing is the depth of the void space between the interior wall-board and whatever is on your exterior. The studs themselves are the 2x4 or 2x6 lumber and the drywall/plaster and exterior sheathing will be attached to the studs.

If it's a 2x4 wall you have 3.5 inches of space to work with between the interior and exterior surface products, if it's a 2x6 wall you have 5.5 inches of space.

PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jul 5, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

PremiumSupport posted:

What it's describing is the interior depth of the wall (or ceiling) between the interior wall-board and whatever is on your exterior. The studs themselves are the 2x4 or 2x6 lumber and the drywall/plaster and exterior sheathing will be attached to the studs.

If it's a 2x4 wall you have 3.5 inches of space to work with between the interior and exterior surface products, if it's a 2x6 wall you have 5.5 inches of space.

okay that makes sense, the total wall is 9.5" thick (the other side of the wall is also an interior wall, it's dividing the bathroom and a hallway). so presumably if you went in from either side, you'd have that 3.5" depth on both sides, leaving about 2.5" in the middle for the supports.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

actionjackson posted:

okay that makes sense, the total wall is 9.5" thick (the other side of the wall is also an interior wall, it's dividing the bathroom and a hallway). so presumably if you went in from either side, you'd have that 3.5" depth on both sides, leaving about 2.5" in the middle for the supports.
Have you measured that? That'd be a surprisingly thick interior wall. Generally an interior wall is 2x4s with drywall applied to either side. In a bathroom, if it's got plumbing running through it, then 2x6. Can't say I've ever seen 2x8 framing for an interior wall. Not impossible of course, just surprising. Your fan will work regardless, I'm just curious.

Edit: I forgot apartments/condos exist. Probably a chase for the building's stack, nevermind.

Slugworth fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jul 5, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Slugworth posted:

Have you measured that? That'd be a surprisingly thick interior wall. Generally an interior wall is 2x4s with drywall applied to either side. In a bathroom, if it's got plumbing running through it, then 2x6. Can't say I've ever seen 2x8 framing for an interior wall. Not impossible of course, just surprising. Your fan will work regardless, I'm just curious.

Edit: I forgot apartments/condos exist. Probably a chase for the building's stack, nevermind.

yes i'm in a condo

black line is 14.5", blue line is the bathroom wall which is 9.5"

Only registered members can see post attachments!

SuperTeeJay
Jun 14, 2015

withak posted:

Is it rocking or are some connections slipping/bending? If rocking then shim up whichever corner of the legs is high. If bending then tighten the bolts. If tightening the bolts doesn’t work then send it back because it is defective.
Thanks. It seems to be bending and the bolts couldn’t be any tighter, but I’m a lazy man so have just stuck a pair of door stops (the kind with rubber tops that go on walls) to the back legs and pushed the table hard into the wall to prevent any movement.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Likely just a bad design then.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

actionjackson posted:

yes i'm in a condo

black line is 14.5", blue line is the bathroom wall which is 9.5"



9.5" is a really odd measurement. A 2x8 framed wall will have a 7.25 inch void space, which means there's a whopping 2.25" of drywall on it.

Likewise a 2x10 wall will have 9.25" of void space leaving you with only 0.25" of drywall.

Best guess is that it's a 2x8 wall with something like 1" of drywall on both sides and a 1/4" of tile or something else in the bathroom.

Edit: I guess it could be something weird like a 2x4 and a 2x6 wall smashed together with 1/4" drywall on either side...

PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jul 5, 2022

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Lots of drywall layers isn't that unheard-of. Sometimes it's easier to make your room 1/4" smaller on all sides than it is to fix the wall properly. And then sometimes that happens more than once.

The floor in my upstairs bathroom has three layers of tile on it, none of them installed by me.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


PremiumSupport posted:

9.5" is a really odd measurement. A 2x8 framed wall will have a 7.25 inch void space, which means there's a whopping 2.25" of drywall on it.

Likewise a 2x10 wall will have 9.25" of void space leaving you with only 0.25" of drywall.

Best guess is that it's a 2x8 wall with something like 1" of drywall on both sides and a 1/4" of tile or something else in the bathroom.

Edit: I guess it could be something weird like a 2x4 and a 2x6 wall smashed together with 1/4" drywall on either side...
If it is a chase to units above/below, maybe it has to have to have extra fire protection? So, 2x8 wall with 2 sheets of 5/8" drywall on each side?

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Maybe check the wall for a hidden compartment.

Is it the wall the plumbing is on? Shower? Shitter? Maybe it's that thick of a wall for the drain stack to run through it.

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Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Yeah, if it's a chase, it's not even necessarily 'a' wall, it could be two walls framed around a void, thus, whatever thickness it wants to be.

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