|
Trip report: Took the garage side door off the jamb and fashioned double thick cardboard shims for each of the three hinges (gotta recycle that Amazon cardboard somehow). I attached them to each other with a bit of tape and then attached the set to the jamb where the hinges go with another bit of tape so they'd stay up while I was manhandling the door into place. I also discovered that the jamb was not secured to the structure of the garage without the hinge screws in place so I added a couple 2 1/2" screws to the jamb itself, making sure the screw heads were flush. I then proceeded with the aforementioned door manhandling and secured it to the jamb by replacing the 3/4" screws with 1 1/4" screws and, after slight adjustments and alignments, it worked perfectly. No more being able to open the locked door with a strong push. 
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2022 18:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 16:16 |
|
|
Now give it a real firm tug SHUT when it's already closed and listen for a subtle "click" as the deadlock plunger extends. Congrats, your door can be opened with a shim now. (This is not due to your changes, just something you should also be aware of and be sure to mitigate if you're not going to put a deadbolt on it.) 
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2022 19:40
|
|
|
Beef Of Ages posted:Trip report: replace the screws in the strike plate w longer ones, 2 1/2" or 3" to make sure it's secured to the framing and not just the door jamb otherwise, nice work sorry you got all your stuff stolen
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2022 11:52
|
|
|
I'm in the middle of replacing the light fixture in my kitchen. There is a ground wire and the instructions mention to hook up the ground wire to the other ground(s). Old one did not have a ground wire present when I removed it, however it had a metal base and was attached to the (metal) box via screws. New fixture also has a metal base and will be attached to the box by screws. Can this be done in lieu of using the actual ground wire? There are already three green wires in the box one attached to the box itself, wire nutted together and it doesn't look like I could even fit this (very small gauge) stranded ground wire in with those three even if I wanted to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 17:46
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I'm in the middle of replacing the light fixture in my kitchen. There is a ground wire and the instructions mention to hook up the ground wire to the other ground(s). Don't trust that the old fixture was grounded, and that you can just copy how they had it - Could have been installed by idiots Edit: sorry, missed that the box itself is tied into the existing ground wires. Yeah, you should be fine. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jul 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 18:21
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I'm in the middle of replacing the light fixture in my kitchen. There is a ground wire and the instructions mention to hook up the ground wire to the other ground(s). Got a picture? If I'm reading this right, you're asking if metal-to-metal contact can be done in lieu of a ground wire, so long as the metal on the wall/ceiling side is grounded. It's not ideal, and I can't tell you it's up to code, but it USED to be OK (at least in certain circumstances). IMO your best bet is to wire everything solidly. Metal-to-metal contact as a ground path is disfavored these days, if not outright prohibited. I wouldn't do it if I had a wire available to connect to. You can get 5-pole wago wire connectors that should let you do this without worrying about overloading a wire nut: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2 Not endorsing that seller, just the product. Local electrical supply house probably carries them, but LowesDepot doesn't for some reason. Also your local electrical supply house might not be open to the public, so Amazon is usually your best bet. If you order from Amazon, double check that it looks like the pictures and not a cheap knockoff. edit: Also if you're going to buy some, buy a variety pack. They make 2-pole and 3-pole versions as well, and they're all super handy to have around. Just make sure you're buying the Wago brand 221 series lever nuts, not some imitation or off-brand. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jul 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 19:16
|
|
|
Dead simple question. We have (I think it's called) recessed lighting in the kitchen. One of the bulbs died, I took it out and it says 'br658'. Do I get that exact same one (I think I found some) or is there a way of telling what the new version of it is, or do I just get any LED bulb that looks similar with similar 'ratings' (it claims to be 9w .13a 2700K 650lm, I think I understand all of it apart from the 'K')
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 21:34
|
|
|
The K is the color temperature and unless you want one bulb that’s a different color, you’ll want to match that on whatever you do get. Basically, there’s the physical form (BR and then the size), the lumen output (can be implied by wattage but that’s not necessarily direct), and the color temperature. If you match those three, it ought to be plenty close enough to matching. I don’t actually recognize BR658, usually it’d be like BR30 or BR40 or something. Post a pic? Other than that, you want 650 lumen (brightness), 2700K (color).
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 21:59
|
|
|
Instead of googling 'br658' I googled the other number on it, gvvlbr306527nd4, and it seems to be this exact thing. I should have just tried that first! https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Va...4-Pack/55463480 Thanks for your reply, Bad Munki. edit: this looks to be about the same??? https://www.amazon.com/Philips-LED-...ps%2C107&sr=8-5 9w 2700k br30 and according to the light I have, I am using 'non-dimmable'. This page says both, but a customer reply says they are in fact non-dimmable. Would I be able to buy these instead of the walmart ones? redreader fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jul 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 22:10
|
|
|
How close can a ceiling fan be to the ceiling before it starts losing airflow?
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 22:25
|
|
|
Yup, should be pretty close to identical, and Philips is a good brand. Good customer service, too, I had a new one go out, spent five minutes on the phone with them, they had me send a pic of the bulb and the enclosure, sent me a new bulb and ten bucks for my trouble.Teabag Dome Scandal posted:How close can a ceiling fan be to the ceiling before it starts losing airflow? I don’t think you’ll ever comfortably fit a fan on a 7’ ceiling or whatever, if that’s why you’re asking. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jul 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 22:25
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Yup, should be pretty close to identical, and Philips is a good brand. Good customer service, too, I had a new one go out, spent five minutes on the phone with them, they had me send a pic of the bulb and the enclosure, sent me a new bulb and ten bucks for my trouble. I guess selling a fan that its possible to install in such a way that it provides no airflow isn't very smart. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't an 'ehhh it works but not well' distance to avoid. Also, it looks like it isn't possible to bypass the controller on a DC motor fan to use an adjustable speed wall switch? All the DC switches I saw were basically hardwired remotes. Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 1, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Cross-posting from plumbing: 4’ pipe on the breaker bar and my wife hugging the tank got it done.  Don’t neglect your maintenance, kids!
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 05:53
|
|
|
I hate baby gates. Now my bannister is loose and I’m not sure the best way to fix it. We started out using the baby gate that applies pressure to the walls which have worked fine in the past-not so much with the bannister because it put too much force on it and made the bannister bow outward. Here’s how it looks at its worst:  Kinda hard to see but the whole bannister bends outward…I’d guess 1/4-1/2” of play in the post. Next we used a different type of gate which doesn’t apply pressure but requires both sides to be fixed…since the bannister is loose it doesn’t work that great:   What’s the best way to fix this? I’ve watched some videos and am unable to tell if there’s a dowel or a metal bolt in there holding it up. My first thought is to use some 6” structural screws through the bottom/middle of the bannister post like I saw on this old house, but just wanted to check with anyone else that might be familiar. I don’t think it has a metal bolt in it because I don’t see any plugs on the bottom of the post to access the bolt.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 12:38
|
|
|
Get rid of the baby
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 14:52
|
|
Associate Christ
|
nwin posted:
If you countersink the heads of the lag screws, you can plug them and it'll look nicer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 15:27
|
|
|
I've got a sliding door that seems to be just metal on metal. It doesn't slide very well. It needs a clean inside the sliding rail, but apart from that, what could I do? I'm thinking "oil" but then immediately I'm thinking "it'll be a dirt trap".
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 15:39
|
|
|
redreader posted:I've got a sliding door that seems to be just metal on metal. It doesn't slide very well. It needs a clean inside the sliding rail, but apart from that, what could I do? I'm thinking "oil" but then immediately I'm thinking "it'll be a dirt trap". Dry lubricant such as: https://blasterproducts.com/CA/product/dry-lube-with-teflon/ https://www.jigaloo.ca/lubricant/3-graphite-extreme.html There are probably others, but those are two I've used for various things and they work fine. Available at various hardware and autoparts stores.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 16:24
|
|
|
Thank you! This is a great thread with very helpful people in it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 16:32
|
|
|
is there much of a difference in ventilation time to remove shower fog, odors, etc. for a 70 CFM vs. 50 CFM bathroom fan? my bathroom is 70 SF but has a 10' ceiling, so it looks like I need 84 CFM. I think I have a 70 CFM already (it's a Broan) but I'll double check in case I somehow just have a 50. Unfortunately they don't have fans >70 CFM for my fan size, which is 7.5x7.25x3.625. I think the cutout is 9x9.25 (at least that's the size of the cover) actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jul 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 16:50
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:is there much of a difference in ventilation time to remove shower fog, odors, etc. for a 70 CFM vs. 50 CFM bathroom fan?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 16:52
|
|
|
lol oh right It would be nice to have an 80 CFM one, but obviously the cutout would need to be larger, and I'm not sure if the ducting or whatever would need to be changed. for example going from this I just checked and my current fan is only 50 CFM, god drat this place did the cheapest poo poo so I want to go from this https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/688 to this https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/671 this would be even better, but you'd have to cut open the drywall, and I'm not sure if you would need to change any ducting as well https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/ae80k Unfortunately the 70 CFM one is 50% louder (6 vs. 4 sonnes) so it might not be worth it. the 80 CFM one is super quiet though. I did email an electrician about it, if it's not super involved (i.e. just increase drywall opening and switch out fan) then I'd probably do it, otherwise def not actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 16:59
|
|
|
I would take longer quiet runtime over louder faster for a bathroom. But that's just me. If you can get a modern ultra quiet Panasonic one sure but they cost more. Worth every penny to me but aren't necessary.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 17:26
|
|
|
i presume those in favor of quieter bathroom fans live alone? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 17:31
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:I would take longer quiet runtime over louder faster for a bathroom. But that's just me. If you can get a modern ultra quiet Panasonic one sure but they cost more. Worth every penny to me but aren't necessary. yeah, the 80 CFM EZFit is the best of both worlds, only 0.7 sonnes (current is 4, the 70 CFM is 6) I also noticed for the 80 CFM one it's 5" deep, mine is 3 5/8" deep, so I suppose you'd have to cut out the sheetrock or whatever it is back there somewhat it does come with a 4" to 3" ductwork reducer, so presumably this is something that can be done. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jul 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:02
|
|
|
I have a kitchen sink question. My house has a kitchen sink that I really hate; the corners are square instead of angled and it seems to have the most microscopic pitch down to the drain so it's a real misery to clean, both because debris gets stuck in the corners and because stuff doesn't really wash into the garbage disposal without me actively pushing it in. It's an undermount sink and the brackets holding it up let go last year sometime, so since then I've been keeping it up with a lifting jack underneath the garbage disposal. This has worked so far, but since all the weight of the sink and everything in it is being transferred through the garbage disposal flange I'm just waiting for the day when that lets go and then I'll be really hosed. I'm pretty sure it's this miserable thing: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cahaba-...C0089/307303042 I would like to get this fixed before the whole thing collapses, but I think my options are pretty limited because of the size of the cutout in the countertop. Ideally I would replace it with an overmount sink so that the weight of the sink is resting on the countertop instead of being held up by a couple tiny little brackets, but the size of the cutout in the countertop is 19" x 13.5" which I don't think any overmount sink is going to drop into. What are my options for fixing this mess? Am I resigned to just getting another undermount sink and making do until we renovate the whole kitchen?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:20
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:i presume those in favor of quieter bathroom fans live alone? Hah. Nope.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:28
|
|
|
chutwig posted:I have a kitchen sink question. My house has a kitchen sink that I really hate; the corners are square instead of angled and it seems to have the most microscopic pitch down to the drain so it's a real misery to clean, both because debris gets stuck in the corners and because stuff doesn't really wash into the garbage disposal without me actively pushing it in. It's an undermount sink and the brackets holding it up let go last year sometime, so since then I've been keeping it up with a lifting jack underneath the garbage disposal. This has worked so far, but since all the weight of the sink and everything in it is being transferred through the garbage disposal flange I'm just waiting for the day when that lets go and then I'll be really hosed. I'm pretty sure it's this miserable thing: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cahaba-...C0089/307303042 There's nothing wrong with undermount sinks when the brackets are properly installed. I get that you don't like yours, but they're a thing that can be reliable when properly done. The whole problem here is that you seem to be conflating breaking some improperly installed brackets with "must replace sink". I think you want to stop that right now and here are the reasons: - You will not be likely to get the sink you want because you are extremely limited by the cut openeing size. - If you find a sink you want and it's larger than the opening it's going to be either or both expensive and a complete mess to cut the existing countertop in place. - You will not be likely to get the sink you want because you are extremely limited by the entire supply hain being hosed - You will not be likely to get the contractor(s) you want or need to do this at any price because they are all off on overpriced reno jobs getting all the money while it's the gettin' time. TL;DR: fix your sink properly. Then maybe think about whether replacing it is a good idea when it's not being essentially forced to be an emergency.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2022 18:58
|
|
|
Motronic posted:<roast> Alright, alright. I was hoping for something like “yeah it’s a weird size but you can get X from this kitchen sink specialty place to tide you over”, but I hear what you’re saying. So, I spent 2 hours pulling the disposal and sink off, resealing it, and reattaching all the undermount brackets. They can now hold the sink and disposal up again without the jack, though I put the jack back after I was done just to reduce pressure on the brackets and hopefully delay the next time I have to do this. I can now rest secure in the knowledge that not only did I do it myself, but I also did a lovely job.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 00:23
|
|
|
Hey, I do most of all of my own work and I'm still in this lovely world of "I can't reasonably do <thing> that I want to do that used to be totally reasonable to decide on a whim I was gonna go out and get supplied for." It's a thing now. All of my projects are now more like actual project plans where I plan out every last thing I need, gather materials and then only start when they are all on site. Multiple projects have been delayed multiple months over the last 2 years over very simple stuff like this. So your expectations aren't crazy, they're just out of date as of very recently.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 02:38
|
|
|
will doing a 4" to 3" duct conversion on the bathroom fan affect it's performance in any meaningful way? I'm just referring to the adapter you get with the new fan that you use to go from the 3" duct to the 4" fan connection.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 03:07
|
|
|
It really sucks having just bought a house that needs a bunch of repairs. It's been a couple years since I had to do any projects (we rented for awhile after selling the last house and moving), and every time I go to buy something for some small project, I'm just flabbergasted. My internal project estimator is just wildly out of date. I dropped a hundred bucks on stupid little odds and ends today that in my head was gonna be like 40 bucks. 6 bucks for a downspout elbow? Sure, why not!
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 03:14
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Hey, I do most of all of my own work and I'm still in this lovely world of "I can't reasonably do <thing> that I want to do that used to be totally reasonable to decide on a whim I was gonna go out and get supplied for." Today I went to Home Depot to get one chemical stripper that turned out to have entirely different directions than the website so I decided to go to Lowe's to get everything rather than half and half after double checking my list. Lowe's took forever because nothing was in the right place and then it turned out Lowe's didn't have any stainless steel trim nails that weren't for a nail gun so i had to go back to the orange place to buy a two dollar box of nails. Ugh.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 04:10
|
|
|
actionjackson posted:will doing a 4" to 3" duct conversion on the bathroom fan affect it's performance in any meaningful way? I'm just referring to the adapter you get with the new fan that you use to go from the 3" duct to the 4" fan connection. You’ll be Ok, I promise.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 05:15
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:It really sucks having just bought a house that needs a bunch of repairs. It's been a couple years since I had to do any projects (we rented for awhile after selling the last house and moving), and every time I go to buy something for some small project, I'm just flabbergasted. My internal project estimator is just wildly out of date. I dropped a hundred bucks on stupid little odds and ends today that in my head was gonna be like 40 bucks. 6 bucks for a downspout elbow? Sure, why not! pricing on stuff is just hosed, it’s brutal
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 12:51
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:It really sucks having just bought a house that needs a bunch of repairs. It's been a couple years since I had to do any projects (we rented for awhile after selling the last house and moving), and every time I go to buy something for some small project, I'm just flabbergasted. My internal project estimator is just wildly out of date. I dropped a hundred bucks on stupid little odds and ends today that in my head was gonna be like 40 bucks. 6 bucks for a downspout elbow? Sure, why not! I've gotten to saving receipts and doing returns on poo poo when I buy the "fittings shotgun" it was one thing when they were $1 but when I'm buying 5 fittings I don't need at 2.79 it adds up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 15:07
|
|
|
This is why I've started getting email receipts, even if I'm not sure I need them, so I don't have to keep track of a tiny piece of paper.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 15:18
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:I've gotten to saving receipts and doing returns on poo poo when I buy the "fittings shotgun" it was one thing when they were $1 but when I'm buying 5 fittings I don't need at 2.79 it adds up. See also: why I hoard scraps and random extra bullshit.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 17:02
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:This is why I've started getting email receipts, even if I'm not sure I need them, so I don't have to keep track of a tiny piece of paper. Have you noticed a change in your advertising as a result? I am loathe to give them my actual email address and am simultaneously entirely too lazy to maintain a burner account in perpetuity.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 17:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 16:16 |
|
|
Beef Of Ages posted:Have you noticed a change in your advertising as a result? I am loathe to give them my actual email address and am simultaneously entirely too lazy to maintain a burner account in perpetuity. I’m a serial unsubscriber, but no, I have not noticed any suspicious email signups.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2022 17:14
|
|