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Aurium posted:So, I have to ask, but you say you're using heater 1. Have you tried using heater 0 (and thermistor 0)? It didn't seem likely that both boards would have hosed up mosfets on heater1 so I didn't bother editing the default in marlin (yes 1 is the default, I think it's because it was easier for them to plug their LCD hat board onto the thermistor1 pins) I might as well try it tonight if I don't feel like too much of a zombie after work. Hopefully the t0 pins aren't buried
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Jul 8, 2022 22:44
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cephalopods posted:It didn't seem likely that both boards would have hosed up mosfets on heater1 so I didn't bother editing the default in marlin (yes 1 is the default, I think it's because it was easier for them to plug their LCD hat board onto the thermistor1 pins) So, I spent a bit going though marlins default config for the trigorilla board, and the anycubic i3 mega, and crossing that with a pin out diagram I found. I won't promise my read is 100% correct or that the firmware you're using follows it. But with those it appears the extruder is on heater 0, and thermistor t0, the bed is the bed output and on thermistor t1.
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Jul 8, 2022 23:27
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Aurium posted:So, I spent a bit going though marlins default config for the trigorilla board, and the anycubic i3 mega, and crossing that with a pin out diagram I found. I won't promise my read is 100% correct or that the firmware you're using follows it. You are correct, and I have been testing with 0 the entire time. I think I typoed heater0 -> heater1 in that post and then gaslit myself about it. Anyway I just swapped the defines for HEATER_0_PIN and HEATER_1_PIN in pins_TRIGORILLA_14.h and didn't touch the thermistors. It heats! Now I gotta reassemble and configure everything lmao Thanks a ton, Aurium.
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Jul 9, 2022 02:50
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I am still new to the design side of things, so this may be a very simple question. I want to make a small flexible 'inner tube' to put inside a microphone body so I can inset a mic capsule into the 'donut hole'. This would be how the capsule is mounted inside the body and should help reject handling noise. Can this be made with TPU? If so, how do I even begin to design it?
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Jul 9, 2022 03:24
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make a sketch of the "donut" profile on the x-z plane or y-z and sweep it along a larger circle on the x-y plane. The larger circle is the sweep path of the "inner tube" / torus. Your inner torus diameter will be the = sweep path diameter- profile diameter. If your Mike is 2mm diameter, and your donut is 1mm thick padding, that means your sweep circle path needs to be 3mm. If you're thinking about how to actually make it, I'd make it D shaped so you have a flat side for your first layer.
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Jul 9, 2022 04:03
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Vaporware posted:make a sketch of the "donut" profile on the x-z plane or y-z and sweep it along a larger circle on the x-y plane. The larger circle is the sweep path of the "inner tube" / torus. I appreciate the response, but you're talking above the vocabulary I have for this stuff. Could you point me at a YouTube video?
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Jul 9, 2022 04:15
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Try looking for a blender tutorial on a making a torus? I mean there might be a premade tinkercad donut, too.
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Jul 9, 2022 04:18
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Marsupial Ape posted:I appreciate the response, but you're talking above the vocabulary I have for this stuff. Could you point me at a YouTube video? Do you want to learn, or do you want the thing you need modeled real quick? If the latter, pics and dimensions will help. It SOUNDS like a pretty not-complicated model, anyway.
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Jul 9, 2022 04:28
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Marsupial Ape posted:I appreciate the response, but you're talking above the vocabulary I have for this stuff. Could you point me at a YouTube video? Here's how to do that in Fusion 360: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUm9AuYTms0 It will help to have some concept of the general way that Fusion works. You make a sketch on a 2d plane and then extrude it into the third dimension. In this example they use Revolve instead of extrude to make it a round item. You can make your O-ring style thing by sketching a circle on a plane and then revolving around an axis. When you have what you want you can right click the object and export it as a stl.
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Jul 9, 2022 04:31
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Vaporware posted:If you're thinking about how to actually make it, I'd make it D shaped so you have a flat side for your first layer. Yeah, trying to deal with supports with TPU is a generally bad plan. Whatever you design, make sure it doesn't need them. e: also this sounds like something you could whip up in tinkercad pretty quickly, which doesn't involve installing anything
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Jul 9, 2022 04:32
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Rexxed posted:Here's how to do that in Fusion 360: I'll give that a watch, thanks. I may also try to remix this o-ring, too. I can definitely use that for my speakers.
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Jul 9, 2022 05:13
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Javid posted:Do you want to learn, or do you want the thing you need modeled real quick? If the latter, pics and dimensions will help. It SOUNDS like a pretty not-complicated model, anyway. I’m much more literate with the slicer and hardware side of things. I want to learn how to do it myself. I know it’s just a simple donut and I know I could teach myself if I knew where to start. I taught myself audio editing, I can do this. I just need a “An Idiot’s Guide to CAD for 3D Printing”.
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Jul 9, 2022 11:15
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I'm interested in the answers too, then, as my cargo cult level knowledge of modeling could use some work. It sounds like you have a pretty great hello world project to learn on. While you should definitely also check out the videos suggested, here is a very tldr speedrun of the process of making a generic donut in the modeling software I use; it should be vaguely similar in any parametric modeling program +/- interface differences. (you should not learn on what I use (onshape) if you are choosing between options; I use onshape because it was the one the hack lab taught for free)    The rest of the process of making your donut is just defining sizes and distances of things in the drawing + deciding what to do to make it FDM printable. I have had good luck with making close-enough circle and sphere shapes by giving it a flat bottom with angled sides that meet the circle tangentially, like so:   Then export the STL and you know the rest. I was floored by how not-complex the basic operations are, even though it still gets complicated when you get deeper into it
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Jul 9, 2022 12:02
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A friend of mine is giving me poo poo about how I should 3d print a ghost gun, so I want to print him a ghost holding a gun but cannot seem to find anything online remotely similar to what I want. I am not that great at modeling, slowly getting basic shapes down let alone modeling a ghost holding a gun. Any suggestions on what I can do to achieve my smart rear end dreams?
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Jul 9, 2022 13:53
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Ghost gun is easy, get a ghost model, get a gun model, load the ghost in prusaslicer, then right click and "add part" or load part, something like that. Select your gun, move it to the ghosts hand or mouth or whatever and now the slicer will union them together where you put it. You can even export that combined model as an STL. Re: learning 3D modeling. There are 2 or so paths. Mudbox and the like are sculpting programs. Fusion is a CAD analog. Somewhere in between is the parametric stuff like openSCAD and tinkercad. Chose one path at first and one program because they all have their own workflow. This is was a well trod path even when I learned it at college circa early 2000s, but I have no idea where to get free tutorials or how to's. All the free guidance from fusion 360 wasn't helpful for what I was trying to do, and the youube channels I checked were the same. An instructor led course is my advice.
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Jul 9, 2022 14:05
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Vaporware posted:Re: learning 3D modeling. There are 2 or so paths. Mudbox and the like are sculpting programs. Fusion is a CAD analog. Somewhere in between is the parametric stuff like openSCAD and tinkercad. I don't think I've ever seen someone put openSCAD and tinkercad in the same sentence like that lol. They're the literal opposite ends of the difficulty spectrum imo.
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Jul 9, 2022 14:16
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Vaporware posted:Ghost gun is easy, get a ghost model, get a gun model, load the ghost in prusaslicer, then right click and "add part" or load part, something like that. Select your gun, move it to the ghosts hand or mouth or whatever and now the slicer will union them together where you put it. You can even export that combined model as an STL. I suggest the lower rear of the ghost. Ghost-butt-gun.
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Jul 9, 2022 14:21
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Vaporware posted:Chose one path at first and one program because they all have their own workflow. This is was a well trod path even when I learned it at college circa early 2000s, but I have no idea where to get free tutorials or how to's. All the free guidance from fusion 360 wasn't helpful for what I was trying to do, and the youube channels I checked were the same. An instructor led course is my advice. Thank you for the advice. I am gonna get stoned and do all these “learn TinkerCad in X amount of steps” videos on YouTube.
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Jul 9, 2022 15:24
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Depends how you like to learn things but tinkercad is easy enough to grasp by just playing with it. Everything is a primitive, either a solid or a hole, and you merge and align these things together to make parts. It's very easy but a somewhat odd way to work and it will not really give you skills that transfer to other programs. I love it for whipping up quick stuff though, it makes it very easy to edit, remix and combine existing STLs.
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Jul 9, 2022 16:23
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I teach 3D printing at the local Makers Lab and a lot of people have never opened a 3D package before and a common obstacle for learning is simply just the concept of a 3D object on a 2D screen. TinkerCad makes it easier to overcome that. It might not be actually useful for producing models, but it's an awesome fundamental learning tool. You can see it in the reaction of people as well. They see TinkerCad and go 'Hey, even I can do that!', whereas you show them Blender or Fusion and they just go blank.
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Jul 9, 2022 19:06
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I teach 3D printing at the local Makers Lab and a lot of people have never opened a 3D package before and a common obstacle for learning is simply just the concept of a 3D object on a 2D screen. One of my least favorite pieces of 'advice' that's thrown at new printer owners in various user groups is "Just model it yourself!" when they ask about... well, anything printable, it seems. As if everyone is just born with the innate knowledge needed to use a CAD package proficiently, and they're foolish for even asking a question. Strangely though, the same people who think that way usually get really indignant when you ask them to paint you a nice picture or write a quick song.
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Jul 9, 2022 19:42
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GotDonuts posted:A friend of mine is giving me poo poo about how I should 3d print a ghost gun, so I want to print him a ghost holding a gun but cannot seem to find anything online remotely similar to what I want. I am not that great at modeling, slowly getting basic shapes down let alone modeling a ghost holding a gun. Any suggestions on what I can do to achieve my smart rear end dreams? The simplest answer is to go on Fiverr, and pay someone  to knock something out in an hour.
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Jul 9, 2022 23:37
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Acid Reflux posted:One of my least favorite pieces of 'advice' that's thrown at new printer owners in various user groups is "Just model it yourself!" when they ask about... well, anything printable, it seems. As if everyone is just born with the innate knowledge needed to use a CAD package proficiently, and they're foolish for even asking a question. Strangely though, the same people who think that way usually get really indignant when you ask them to paint you a nice picture or write a quick song. Better yet, "try OpenSCAD!"
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Jul 10, 2022 02:09
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GotDonuts posted:A friend of mine is giving me poo poo about how I should 3d print a ghost gun, so I want to print him a ghost holding a gun but cannot seem to find anything online remotely similar to what I want. I am not that great at modeling, slowly getting basic shapes down let alone modeling a ghost holding a gun. Any suggestions on what I can do to achieve my smart rear end dreams? you can almost certainly make that on HeroForge e: I could swear they had some kind of ghost robe outfit but now I can't find it. you may be able to make something suitable anyway e2: this was funny enough for me to model for myself, and easier in cad than I expected 
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Jul 10, 2022 02:14
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I don't think I've ever seen someone put openSCAD and tinkercad in the same sentence like that lol. They're the literal opposite ends of the difficulty spectrum imo. Agreed, but they both have the same core principle of primitives and modifier workflow. openSCAD shows you the sausage being made. Marsupial Ape posted:Thank you for the advice. I am gonna get stoned and do all these “learn TinkerCad in X amount of steps” videos on YouTube. Don't feel bad asking questions either. This stuff just isn't intuitive and there are tons of ways too get from A to B. A bunch of tutorials I tried made it seem easy, but they also demo the most trivial case. (Like the built-in tinkercad tutorials) Getting the idea of how the shapes should interact for manufacturing is the best take away from actually using a modeling program. Tinkercad is a fine program for getting things done, and as soon as it feels limiting then there are a bunch of options to try next. I use the same workflow in tinkercad as I do just doing simple models in prusaslicer. Add cube - add cutting cylinder - print cube with hole. Javid posted:you can almost certainly make that on HeroForge lol Unrelated, but I printed some inland TPU today and it is way tougher than I thought. I was expecting squishy stress ball, and it was more like RC car tires. Oh god and the stringing. A+ would print again
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Jul 10, 2022 03:37
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i got sick my my old used ender 3 needing an amazon purchase whenever i go to fix something, beacuse a part doesnt fit or something, so yeah.  was a fun couple hours to assemble! edit: jesus watching this thing work next to my ender 3 is like night and day, holy poo poo its fast and smooth, ripping through a benchy right now. queeb fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jul 10, 2022 |
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Jul 10, 2022 03:46
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Been running klipper on my ender 3 v2 with a pi zero2w with input shaping and a camera with zero load issues at all. Was worried it may not be able to handle it before I knew how little klipper/fluidd actually seems to use in resources. I have it tuned now so it prints as fast or faster than my mk3s+ with close to the same print quality! It probes for a mesh based on the size of the print so it's really great at getting first layers right. I'm pretty sure I can crank the speed up even more once I install another part cooling fan. If anyone has an old printer laying around and wants to breathe some new life into it I would highly recommend it!
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Jul 10, 2022 09:41
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Printed out the Tooned Birdhouse. https://imgur.com/gallery/0emiIkj
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Jul 10, 2022 14:26
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queeb posted:i got sick my my old used ender 3 needing an amazon purchase whenever i go to fix something, beacuse a part doesnt fit or something, so yeah.
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Jul 10, 2022 14:35
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ilkhan posted:That's a Prusa mini, right? yup! the print space actually wasnt as bad as i was thinking, its more than big enough for most stuff. and my god its fast.
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Jul 10, 2022 14:43
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Hell yeah, Prusa Mini rules. I’m gonna be running a clearance castle on mine in PC Blend today before I start printing some furniture and workshop tooling, wish me luck.
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Jul 10, 2022 15:32
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I replaced my nozzle with a 0.6mm one and started printing some petg with a 0.3mm l;ayer height on my mini and it looks like this on the sides: https://imgur.com/a/ldI9yWy Is this a retraction issue? Temp issue? St. Blaize fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Jul 10, 2022 |
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Jul 10, 2022 15:55
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Things I would check: Pid tuning Extruder steps I interpret that as inconsistent extrusion. In my mind, that is due to a combination of the filament being advanced at an unpredictable rate, or it melting at an unpredictable rate. Good luck!
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Jul 10, 2022 16:10
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mattfl posted:Printed out the Tooned Birdhouse. The colors really pop, looks nice!
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Jul 10, 2022 17:47
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St. Blaize posted:I replaced my nozzle with a 0.6mm one and started printing some petg with a 0.3mm l;ayer height on my mini and it looks like this on the sides: https://imgur.com/a/ldI9yWy If you have seam: random that's normal, if not then not. Are you running octoprint or printing from the SD card? That looks like the nozzle is pausing for a split second which can be a gcode problem.
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Jul 10, 2022 18:06
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:If you have seam: random that's normal, if not then not. Are you running octoprint or printing from the SD card? That looks like the nozzle is pausing for a split second which can be a gcode problem. using octoprint, i guess i will try from the flash drive and see if its better
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Jul 10, 2022 18:16
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcMxEkVvIdE&t=186s This is insane (wait for it to start 2nd layer)
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Jul 10, 2022 19:55
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcMxEkVvIdE&t=186s mother of god
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Jul 10, 2022 20:03
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcMxEkVvIdE&t=186s Holy gently caress.
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Jul 10, 2022 20:28
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drat that frame seems so rigid. I've seen some of his other videos, pretty impressive.
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Jul 10, 2022 20:33
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