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Casimir Radon
Aug 2, 2008


I have the Wen sander it was a good purchase. I would suggest getting a scraping and taking out any high spots or paint runs with that first. Otherwise your pads are going to get gummed up.

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Xenix
Feb 21, 2003
I'm not entirely sure this is the right thread for this question, but I'll ask it anyway! My partners parents just remodeled a large portion of their home, which included redoing both bathrooms. Their toilets now have bidets and my partner stayed with them a few days while I was out of town. She now says we absolutely must have bidets at home. The bidets her folks have are Kohler Novitas.

I don't know anything about bidets. Are these a quality product we (she) will be happy with and that we (I) won't have to troubleshoot regularly? Are there other products on the market we should consider?

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


Hey thread, thanks to more deferred maintenance and half-assed patches by the POs we might have trouble brewing under our driveway. I just had a small (~6” diameter, 8” deep) sinkhole appear which I’m sure is great news.

Our driveway is one car length, is right up next to our house, and adjoins our neighbors’ driveway. Both driveways are asphalt and in fair to poor repair- our has a lot of patches and a few cracks. Theirs also has some cracks, and there is no grass or gravel strip, just two old asphalt coatings that overlap a bit.

I guess my question is what are our options here? We’re on a tiny urban lot, and I worry if we get ours repaved without them doing theirs, we might just still get a bunch of water/ice stuck under our new driveway. I’m open to getting permeable pavers or something similar, but we’re already residing the house this year so I want to be budget conscious.

eta: the driveways are also on a mild slope, and we never really get water pooling on them, although now of course the hole catches some of it

BadSamaritan fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jul 13, 2022

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
For Prime Day, the Airthings Corentium Radon detector is down to $100-ish.

https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-De...80-890f5a4e2f90


I know it comes up from time to time in these threads.

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

The door to my office has always tended to get a little stuck on the doorframe, but it's getting worse for some reason. I legit cannot get it all the way closed.

The place where it's getting stuck is on the side (not the top or bottom), near the top. Search results suggest to try tightening the hinges, but I checked and they do not appear to be loose at all. Is there another obvious solution here beyond "call a handyman and pay them however much money that costs"?

DoubleT2172
Sep 24, 2007

loquacius posted:

The door to my office has always tended to get a little stuck on the doorframe, but it's getting worse for some reason. I legit cannot get it all the way closed.

The place where it's getting stuck is on the side (not the top or bottom), near the top. Search results suggest to try tightening the hinges, but I checked and they do not appear to be loose at all. Is there another obvious solution here beyond "call a handyman and pay them however much money that costs"?

Do you already have 3" screws in the hinges? If you don't the "easy" way is to remove the ones you have and get 3" screws in there and when you tighten it it'll pull the entire door frame closer to the framed out wall

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

DoubleT2172 posted:

Do you already have 3" screws in the hinges? If you don't the "easy" way is to remove the ones you have and get 3" screws in there and when you tighten it it'll pull the entire door frame closer to the framed out wall

I have no idea what kind of screws are in there now, they're the original ones that were there when we bought the place. I could take one of them out after work and check.

Docjowles
Apr 9, 2009

BadSamaritan posted:

Hey thread, thanks to more deferred maintenance and half-assed patches by the POs we might have trouble brewing under our driveway. I just had a small (~6” diameter, 8” deep) sinkhole appear which I’m sure is great news.

Our driveway is one car length, is right up next to our house, and adjoins our neighbors’ driveway. Both driveways are asphalt and in fair to poor repair- our has a lot of patches and a few cracks. Theirs also has some cracks, and there is no grass or gravel strip, just two old asphalt coatings that overlap a bit.

I guess my question is what are our options here? We’re on a tiny urban lot, and I worry if we get ours repaved without them doing theirs, we might just still get a bunch of water/ice stuck under our new driveway. I’m open to getting permeable pavers or something similar, but we’re already residing the house this year so I want to be budget conscious.

eta: the driveways are also on a mild slope, and we never really get water pooling on them, although now of course the hole catches some of it

I’m curious about driveway options, too. At our new house we have a smallish one made up of concrete slabs and some huge trees have severely hosed it up with their roots. It’s cracked and heaving in multiple places. I’ve been trying to research solutions online but not getting much beyond “you have to cut down the trees” which would be a bummer (and expensive). I suppose we could just do gravel or something although I don’t love that look.

kitten emergency
Jan 13, 2008

get meow this wack-ass crystal prison

Xenix posted:

I'm not entirely sure this is the right thread for this question, but I'll ask it anyway! My partners parents just remodeled a large portion of their home, which included redoing both bathrooms. Their toilets now have bidets and my partner stayed with them a few days while I was out of town. She now says we absolutely must have bidets at home. The bidets her folks have are Kohler Novitas.

I don't know anything about bidets. Are these a quality product we (she) will be happy with and that we (I) won't have to troubleshoot regularly? Are there other products on the market we should consider?

I have a Toto Washlet seat and it’s great. Easily one of the best things I’ve spent money on in this house.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Xenix posted:

I'm not entirely sure this is the right thread for this question, but I'll ask it anyway! My partners parents just remodeled a large portion of their home, which included redoing both bathrooms. Their toilets now have bidets and my partner stayed with them a few days while I was out of town. She now says we absolutely must have bidets at home. The bidets her folks have are Kohler Novitas.

I don't know anything about bidets. Are these a quality product we (she) will be happy with and that we (I) won't have to troubleshoot regularly? Are there other products on the market we should consider?

I have this one: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/st...id=OS_googlepla and it's wonderful! The oscillating feature is :discourse:

Casimir Radon
Aug 2, 2008


When balmy basement remodel is done I’m getting a bidet. My stimmy check got eaten up my putting in two ceiling fixtures, putting a socket behind my stove (previous idiots had an extension cord running across the counter), some poo poo with my dishwasher’s socket, and putting a socket down next to the upstairs toilet so I could put in a bidet at some point.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

loquacius posted:

The door to my office has always tended to get a little stuck on the doorframe, but it's getting worse for some reason. I legit cannot get it all the way closed.

The place where it's getting stuck is on the side (not the top or bottom), near the top. Search results suggest to try tightening the hinges, but I checked and they do not appear to be loose at all. Is there another obvious solution here beyond "call a handyman and pay them however much money that costs"?
I don't know where you are, but is it just summer humidity? Fixes for that would be sanding it down a little or just waiting two months.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



PainterofCrap posted:

Drill holes through from left to right with the gate in place, so you know where to drill to avoid interfering with the gate hardware.

Remove the gate/hardware.

install 1/2" stove bolts with fender washers at both ends.

tighten them down until the crack closes./

Reinstall the gate.

Is it really this easy? I'm willing to try! Thanks.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It should. I would consider putting some type of impermeable cap on top of the hinge post to prevent water penetration.

VVV then you’re good VVV

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Jul 14, 2022

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



The top of the post itself you mean? I've got light caps on them

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

DoubleT2172 posted:

Do you already have 3" screws in the hinges? If you don't the "easy" way is to remove the ones you have and get 3" screws in there and when you tighten it it'll pull the entire door frame closer to the framed out wall

Followup on this: mother fuckin 1-inch screws. Honestly my step 1 might be "take out all of the screws and re-drill them in, 1 at a time" to see if that works?

Anne Whateley posted:

I don't know where you are, but is it just summer humidity? Fixes for that would be sanding it down a little or just waiting two months.

Possibly -- this definitely wasn't happening last summer, though, and in either case I don't wanna just, like, resign myself to my office door not closing a few months out of the year.

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

Yeah messing with the screws a little appears to have made no difference. I'll try getting some longer ones, I guess. Don't wanna have to start, like, sanding down the door; that seems harder.

Some Guy From NY
Dec 11, 2007

loquacius posted:

Yeah messing with the screws a little appears to have made no difference. I'll try getting some longer ones, I guess. Don't wanna have to start, like, sanding down the door; that seems harder.

I had a similar issue with a bedroom door. I had a handyman doing other work so i showed him the problem and he replaced one of the screws in a hinge with a deck screw. it totally was able to shift the door and fixed the issue. So I suggest using a deck screw since it worked for me.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

That's one of the first things to try but it doesn't always work.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Some Guy From NY posted:

I had a similar issue with a bedroom door. I had a handyman doing other work so i showed him the problem and he replaced one of the screws in a hinge with a deck screw. it totally was able to shift the door and fixed the issue. So I suggest using a deck screw since it worked for me.

Yeah I always just use the grey deck screws

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Harriet Carker posted:

My microwave shut off while in use today. It did not trip the breaker. The outlet has power, but the microwave clock display and light are off. Is this something I can attempt to fix myself? Do I need a new microwave? Who would I even call - an electrician?

I saw one or two replies here but to drive this home - microwave guts will not hesitate to kill you even if unplugged for a month.

Warranty, repair shop, or replacement. If it's freestanding skip repair, they make replacement microwaves for almost no money. Even doubling or triple the no money ones will get you something very nice. Repair is going to cost you $150 just to get someone to look at it.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Johnny Truant posted:

Yeah, that's what I figured! Gonna go buy one or two more thin plastic sheets to try and block off the ends of the hallway, thanks for the reminder. All the sanding will be done by hand, so :rip:

Buy slightly thicker (like 3mil) plastic. If you aren't a pro you're going to SUCK at getting that 0.x mil stuff up, but pro's can make a sealed space with it in the time it will take you to figure out how to cut it. Get wider diameter tape (like 2" tape) and spring for the 3m brand. Seal off your vents and doorways, you can always re-tape or re-stick it, but wall yourself in. Get the 10'x100' boxes - only suckers buy the little 10x10' packages.

Buy the HEPA kit for your shop vac, it's a bag + filter and nothing gets past it. I sucked up drywall dust and ultra fine ash from my fireplace and almost nothing made it through the other side. Let everything settle, suck up all the loose stuff, then wet rag the rest of it.

If you want to exchange your air you can do the box fan + filter trick, but honestly just let it all settle out, suck it up, wipe it up, done.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

What are items that should be on my to do to list to prep our place for an extended vacation? This is our first vacation since buying our place, and we’ll be gone the entire month of August.

Our place has a basement, central air, natural gas appliances: oven, dryer, boiler.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

EPICAC posted:

What are items that should be on my to do to list to prep our place for an extended vacation? This is our first vacation since buying our place, and we’ll be gone the entire month of August.

Our place has a basement, central air, natural gas appliances: oven, dryer, boiler.

Do you have someone that can check on it like once a week or so?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

EPICAC posted:

What are items that should be on my to do to list to prep our place for an extended vacation? This is our first vacation since buying our place, and we’ll be gone the entire month of August.

Our place has a basement, central air, natural gas appliances: oven, dryer, boiler.

Turn off the valves to your washing machine. Don't actually turn off your central air if you have anything that will spoil in extreme heat (wine?). You can turn it way up to 80f or whatever but don't turn it off. Have a friend go get your mail, or ask the post office to hold it. Empty your fridge/pantry of perishables. Empty all the trash in your house.

Have your friend borrow your car or put it on a trickle charger.

Best thing to do is have a friend/neighbor either live there or stop by on the regular.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

BonoMan posted:

Do you have someone that can check on it like once a week or so?

We asked our neighbor, it’s a two unit condo, and she’ll also be out of town for much of August. We’re planning on asking some neighbors across the street.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I'd cut off water/gas to the whole house. I have a friend who had a toilet hose break and flood his entire condo while he was out of town.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

H110Hawk posted:

Turn off the valves to your washing machine. Don't actually turn off your central air if you have anything that will spoil in extreme heat (wine?). You can turn it way up to 80f or whatever but don't turn it off. Have a friend go get your mail, or ask the post office to hold it. Empty your fridge/pantry of perishables. Empty all the trash in your house.

Have your friend borrow your car or put it on a trickle charger.

Best thing to do is have a friend/neighbor either live there or stop by on the regular.

We live in a dense neighborhood, and don’t have a driveway. Street sweeping means I have to stash the car in the garage at work, which I know several people have done when they’re out of town. I need to make sure my jumper pack is charged.

SpartanIvy posted:

I'd cut off water/gas to the whole house. I have a friend who had a toilet hose break and flood his entire condo while he was out of town.

My washing machine cutoff is inaccessible behind the washer dryer stack. Is there any harm in turning off the main water? Would I need to cut power to the boiler as well?

EPICAC fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jul 16, 2022

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

EPICAC posted:

My washing machine cutoff is inaccessible behind the washer dryer stack. Is there any harm in turning off the main water? Would I need to cut power to the boiler as well?
I don't have experience with boilers, but with water heaters I turn mine off. There's no benefit to leaving it running while you're not there anyway unless you just like supporting your local energy company.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

SpartanIvy posted:

I don't have experience with boilers, but with water heaters I turn mine off. There's no benefit to leaving it running while you're not there anyway unless you just like supporting your local energy company.

Yeah, we have a passive hot water storage tank filled by the boiler. There’s a power switch on the boiler that turns it off along with the associated switching relay.

Casimir Radon
Aug 2, 2008


Was just going to paint the upstairs bathroom. After taking the lovely legged vanity out I decided there was no loving way I was putting that piece of poo poo back in since I’m getting rid of it and the garbage DIY job of an epoxy floor the previous owners put in. Hopefully I can get a flooring person in to rip this poo poo up and put down nice laminate in the nearish future.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Any recommendations on best way to replace this chandelier? The top mounting bracket is about 14-15’ high on an angled popcorn ceiling. I’m not concerned about the wiring, just wondering how I would get the old one down and replaced with a new fixture.

My guess is the wiring isn’t done at the bottom of the chandelier where the lights are, but at the top of the ceiling instead. I’ve got a ladder but no good place to put it as an extension ladder and it’s not tall enough as a normal A-frame ladder. If I stand on the top level I could hook the chain and bring the base of the chandelier to me, but there’s no safe way to reach the top part on the ceiling. That weird space on top of the closet is a no-go as well. Even if it would bear my weight, it’s too far for me to reach the ceiling fixture.

I’m guessing I need an electrician with a tall ladder for this one, right?



nwin fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jul 16, 2022

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

EPICAC posted:

We live in a dense neighborhood, and don’t have a driveway. Street sweeping means I have to stash the car in the garage at work, which I know several people have done when they’re out of town. I need to make sure my jumper pack is charged.

My washing machine cutoff is inaccessible behind the washer dryer stack. Is there any harm in turning off the main water? Would I need to cut power to the boiler as well?

Definitely turn off the main shutoff, don't bother with any of the per-fixture ones. We turn off the main even when we're just going away for a weekend.

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

Some Guy From NY posted:

I had a similar issue with a bedroom door. I had a handyman doing other work so i showed him the problem and he replaced one of the screws in a hinge with a deck screw. it totally was able to shift the door and fixed the issue. So I suggest using a deck screw since it worked for me.

No luck here -- changed out all three screws on the door side of the hinge for 2.5-inchers (longest the store had), and it's a LITTLE better now, but not 100%. Gonna start googling "how to sand down a door" to see whether it's beyond my pay grade.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Ordered a fire table from Costco the a few weeks ago. Finally received it, converted to natural gas and hooked it up.

God drat, I wish I did it years ago. It's so nice being on the patio after dark and when it starts to chill, turn it on and largely reproduce most benefits of a fire pit without the hassle and hazards especially on my covered patio.
Being able to use it double duty as a good sized table kicks rear end.



devicenull posted:

Definitely turn off the main shutoff, don't bother with any of the per-fixture ones. We turn off the main even when we're just going away for a weekend.

That really is a good habit to get into.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



My main wasn’t exercised in like 20 years so when I shut it off there was black sediment goo that went to fixtures downstream after it was turned on. My big fear was some sediment would get stuck in a water line outlet on my washing machine or fridge and brick that part of the appliance. Luckily it only seemed to hit the kitchen faucet (no flow) and I had to disassemble the spout to clear the sediment from the screen/aerator.

So watch out for that :-)

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Inner Light posted:

My main wasn’t exercised in like 20 years so when I shut it off there was black sediment goo that went to fixtures downstream after it was turned on. My big fear was some sediment would get stuck in a water line outlet on my washing machine or fridge and brick that part of the appliance. Luckily it only seemed to hit the kitchen faucet (no flow) and I had to disassemble the spout to clear the sediment from the screen/aerator.

So watch out for that :-)

To prevent this concern in the future, turn on an outdoor spigot near the house shutoff first and let all the water with possible gunk in it drain out there before you use anything inside the house

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

nwin posted:

Any recommendations on best way to replace this chandelier? The top mounting bracket is about 14-15’ high on an angled popcorn ceiling. I’m not concerned about the wiring, just wondering how I would get the old one down and replaced with a new fixture.

My guess is the wiring isn’t done at the bottom of the chandelier where the lights are, but at the top of the ceiling instead. I’ve got a ladder but no good place to put it as an extension ladder and it’s not tall enough as a normal A-frame ladder. If I stand on the top level I could hook the chain and bring the base of the chandelier to me, but there’s no safe way to reach the top part on the ceiling. That weird space on top of the closet is a no-go as well. Even if it would bear my weight, it’s too far for me to reach the ceiling fixture.

I’m guessing I need an electrician with a tall ladder for this one, right?





You’d need a ladder one way or another, whether you want to get one yourself or hire someone. Replacing the chandelier is pretty straightforward and you should be able to do it yourself.

You could probably leave the chain and splice the wire down low but it would depend on your new chandelier whether or not you could conceal wire nuts.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



SpartanIvy posted:

To prevent this concern in the future, turn on an outdoor spigot near the house shutoff first and let all the water with possible gunk in it drain out there before you use anything inside the house

I am in a condo so no outdoor spout unfortunately! Some condo units in my building apparently do not have a master shutoff at all (heard this from a plumber but not sure how true it is), or that a master valve will control water to other units as well. But mine does have one only for my unit.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



EPICAC posted:

Yeah, we have a passive hot water storage tank filled by the boiler. There’s a power switch on the boiler that turns it off along with the associated switching relay.

Turning off the main is fine. Turn off the power to the boiler.

Make sure all of your toilets are flushed before you leave.

Also: if you have a garbage disposal, run a lemon through it, followed by at least half a sink basin of water.

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