|
Marsupial Ape posted:I already ordered a 3 pack. That usually end the ritual and summons the lost thing. And because filament tends to not stick as well to the sock as to the metal heat block so wisps and whatnot are less likely to collect on your hot end.
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2022 00:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 13:11 |
|
|
Tremors posted:Oh now you have to tell us where it was. I don't want to spoil the story, but the poltergeist only seems to manifest when I am stoned. This was good one though. It was under the lid I had taken off of a sterilite box full of computer parts. I keep that box in a separate part of the house than my printer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2022 00:54
|
|
|
That same poltergeist keeps loving off with the one dedicated wrench I have for holding the heatblock and hiding it under various things when I need it the most.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2022 06:20
|
|
|
I've been pretty slap dash with the sock, it doesn't lock in perfectly, but it doesn't interfere with the operation of the printer at all from my experience. It's definitely worth getting, it saved my butt from a nasty filament blob which would have caused no end of drama.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2022 06:25
|
|
|
bird food bathtub posted:The front face has text and an icon on it that I really don't see working out very well in any orientation other than the back of each half flat on the build plate. I just don't see any way to support the text and icon if the entire thing is built as one piece so I tried bisecting it and building it flat. That part works great, the text is crisp and I'm happy with the icon, just can't figure out a way to keep the tops from warping. Can you show us pictures of what it's supposed to look like? I may be able to whip one up for you fairly quickly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2022 14:15
|
|
|
Acid Reflux convinced me to just print it as one piece and I did that. Seems to have worked. If I get up close and start doing the perfectionist examination I can see some minor details that are being lost but one of my next steps in processing will probably cover that up anyway. Should have a finished product some time this week after work to show off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2022 14:30
|
|
|
on the commercial resin printer side of things, I'm putting a rapidshape P20+ through its paces and it's got some really neat features. i particularly like the adaptive printing, it constantly measures the suction/lift-off forces and adjusts the lifting speed, pause durations etc appropriately- it runs slowly when you're working with really viscous resin or curing a lot of material for a given slice, but it flies when you're just curing something small or finishing the tip of a part or whatever. also I like their workflow using all their expensive proprietary poo poo that I personally don't have to pay to replace. glass-bottom resin vats are great to work with, really hard to damage unlike a FEP film, but it's a proprietary silicone-faced plate so you can't replace it yourself like FEP film and i think they're like $300 a pop lmao. same thing with their resins, everything is RFIDed up so just holding a bottle of resin next to the printer automatically loads the right material settings *and* assigns a material to that resin tray, so it'll automatically catch you mixing up materials and stuff like that. otoh: your resin about to expire? sorry buddy that poo poo is unprintable at 12:01 AM first day of the month
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 03:40
|
|
|
I have similar feelings about Formlabs printers - have you worked with any of those to compare? I adore working on a Form 3 compared to just about anything else I’ve ever touched.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 04:04
|
|
|
My next big project will be installing the dual z-axis kit. I want to mount the extruder directly on the hot end block, so I want the extra z axis because of the weight. Also, I have three very costly Noctua 40mm X 20mm fans that I am going to mount them all on that fucker. Finally, I can justify the sunk coast of a previous dumb project.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 06:05
|
|
|
Marsupial Ape posted:My next big project will be installing the dual z-axis kit. I want to mount the extruder directly on the hot end block, so I want the extra z axis because of the weight. You probably know this but the Ender 3 is 24V and most noctua fans are 12v so you'll need to either run two in series or run them on their own power supply. I've got a buck converter in my ender 3 for a couple of fans to keep the 2208 stepper drivers cool but I'm using a bigtreetech board and not the stock one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 06:50
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:You probably know this but the Ender 3 is 24V and most noctua fans are 12v so you'll need to either run two in series or run them on their own power supply. I've got a buck converter in my ender 3 for a couple of fans to keep the 2208 stepper drivers cool but I'm using a bigtreetech board and not the stock one. Oh, yes. I got the good ones with the led display. I futz around with diy electronics, mostly speakers and microphones, so I am well aware about accidentally burning poo poo out because of voltage. I had not though about running two speakers in series, like a couple speakers. That actually gives me a couple ideas.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 07:05
|
|
|
I don't know if they'd handle the voltage control (I assume PWM but just right on the power line) the printer does to run the fan at speeds besides 0 or 100%, but some fans are either off or on and that could work for some situations. I've been meaning to do a LED light with some strips and just run a couple of sections in series so it works on the Ender 3.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 07:58
|
|
|
I did a test reprint of a mini I had printed before learning about arachne and updating cura. Very visible improvement in surface detail in certain difficult areas. It's hard to take a zoomed-in picture of this stuff that doesn't look like trash, but As the weirdo trying to do minis in fdm, I appreciate even these tiny upgrades
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 09:14
|
|
|
I'm wondering if anyone has an advice on an issue I'm having. I just bought a resin printer (Mars 3) a few weeks ago and everything was printing great up until yesterday. Now I can't get a single print to stick to the build plate correctly. It doesn't get stuck to the bottom of the tank, but anywhere other than the center of the build plates slowly peels away and eventually the print just falls off. I've done a bunch of stuff such as sanding the build plate, adjusting settings so that the base layers get extra exposure time, I did a thorough cleaning on the tank and fep sheet, I re-leveled everything, I made the raft size bigger. Nothing is really working. Could it be the fep sheet needs to be replaced? It seems weird since the printer was brand new and has only been used like 10 times in the last week. I have a magnetic flex plate attached to the build plate so it's easy to remove, could this be causing the problem? Does it have a hard time sticking to certain surfaces? Fish Of Doom fucked around with this message at 09:20 on Jul 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 09:17
|
|
|
LightRailTycoon posted:Dell refurbished https://www.dellrefurbished.com always has some sub $200 mini desktops. It’s more expensive that a pi, but less so than you’d expect, and you can have one on 4-5 days with free shipping. Grabbed one of these, I don't game on PC much anymore and my decade+ old desktop is dying anyway. Holy LOL the specs aren't far off from what I built back then.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 11:43
|
|
|
I pirated a seal. Though I wish that: a: I had slapped on variable-layer size so that I could reduce the plateau stepping on the fin and head. b: I had some way to minimize those drat layer seams/zits, they're super obvious on a smooth shape like this unfortunately.  (Photoscanned/Photogrammetry-ized the seal with Reality Capture.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 12:18
|
|
|
SubNat posted:(Photoscanned/Photogrammetry-ized the seal with Reality Capture.) I was fully expecting them to only have a $10k enterprise product, looks like you can buy credits, somewhat reasonably priced. Do you mind me asking what that cost to, uh, scan
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 12:28
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:I was fully expecting them to only have a $10k enterprise product, looks like you can buy credits, somewhat reasonably priced. Do you mind me asking what that cost to, uh, scan It cost a whopping 0.75 usd to export/scan, I could optimize it by using fewer images. (Flat rate based on how many megapixels you shove in.) When you use credits you 'license' the images you shove in. So once you've paid for the images for a scan you can export and tweak it as much as you want with the same dataset. Also it's completely free up to the export phase, so you're free to import and test and play around with models to see how they look and if it's something you want to spend money on. (You only actually use the credits when starting up the export of the finished model.) It's a weird licensing scheme, but I don't mind dropping 0.5-a couple bux now and then on the occasional model, instead of having to buy an expensive program or get another tedious subscription. Another model I did with like 230, 1080p images cost around 0.3 usd. (Frames from a video.) It can be dropped down to 100 or so images and 0.1-0.15 usd without much loss in quality, especially for models I'd be postprocessing in a 3d program afterwards, or just using as reference to build a new, clean model.  SubNat fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Jul 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 12:34
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I don't know if they'd handle the voltage control (I assume PWM but just right on the power line) the printer does to run the fan at speeds besides 0 or 100%, but some fans are either off or on and that could work for some situations. I've been meaning to do a LED light with some strips and just run a couple of sections in series so it works on the Ender 3. When dealing with fans that are 4 wire kinds that can do speed control, just wire up the positive and negative wires and ignore the other 2. It’ll run at 100% just like a dumb fan. You can also wire three 1k resisters in parallel to bring it from 24v to 12v. Great way to light a cigar after you let warm up, too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 14:35
|
|
|
I recently replaced the fans and they are controlled via ground. Get your 12V/24V-for-2 from anywhere you want, connect the negative to the pins on the board and the printer can control them. This applies also to this: Marsupial Ape posted:When dealing with fans that are 4 wire kinds that can do speed control, just wire up the positive and negative wires and ignore the other 2. It’ll run at 100% just like a dumb fan. Marsupial Ape posted:You can also wire three 1k resisters in parallel to bring it from 24v to 12v. Great way to light a cigar after you let warm up, too. Sorry to add something to this, but I'm not sure how knowledgeable people are about this. It's a joke, do not regulate voltage via resistors!
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 15:55
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:I was fully expecting them to only have a $10k enterprise product, looks like you can buy credits, somewhat reasonably priced. Do you mind me asking what that cost to, uh, scan Their licensing method is unusual but really, really makes it accessible to one-offs or small stuff. I like it a lot. I did one project for a grand total of like 1.15 in the end or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 17:15
|
|
|
Planning on rebuilding my mk2.5s clone with better parts and a bear frame once all of it arrives from overseas. In anticipation I've tweaked the mk3s+ X motor mount so that it has the endstop again
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 18:28
|
|
|
Oh yeah, a heads up with Prusaslicer 2.5, Lighting (and possibly some other 'adaptive' infills) infill seem to break if you use variable layer height. I assume it's something like it getting coded to be 'x layers' high relative to the base layer height x structure it's supposed to support, which then breaks when some layers are a fraction of the height. It still generates a bit, but it doesn't 'grow' as much as it otherwise does if you just have a static layer height. I double checked a print and noticed that it was generating only a small fraction of the support mass it was doing pre-variable layer height getting applied.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 18:31
|
|
|
Arachne is extremely good but holy hell it's hard to get decent top layers out of prusaslicer without superslicer's "supporting dense layer" setting. I'm literally doubling my normal top layer count and still getting a ragged pillowy mess... I haven't tried printing a lightning-infill print but I've sliced a couple and I don't understand how they're supposed to work without a lattice across the top
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 20:33
|
|
|
RabbitWizard posted:I recently replaced the fans and they are controlled via ground. Get your 12V/24V-for-2 from anywhere you want, connect the negative to the pins on the board and the printer can control them. It’s basically a tiny VFD, which is fascinating because I work with big ones in the water treatment industry. I’ve had to explain the technology to city council members so many times… I got to 3D printing by way of DIY hobby electronics and there is a lot of dumb jokes like that in the community. Anyway, I’ve got these three microwave oven transformers I got wired in series…
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 22:20
|
|
|
My Elegoo Neptune 3 showed up today. Took a fairly lazy 20 minutes for assembly and auto bed leveling/calibration, and the included test object has finished printing (1 hour 18 minutes, so says the machine) and looks loving fantastic. Fixed bed with a 16-point autoleveling routine, flexible textured PEI sheet, silent driver board, filament runout sensor, touch screen on a cord so you can hold it away from the machine if that floats your boat, metal extruder mechanism, dual part cooling fans... this thing comes out of the box with literally every upgrade that I would have paid extra to add to another Ender 3 Pro plus a couple extra, and I got it at the $199 pre-order price. I think they're still only retailing for like $210 or $220. Based solely on a sample size of one print, I would already recommend this over an Ender for babby's first budget printer on the merit of its features and ease of assembly alone. It's a very well thought out machine which seems to live up to the highly positive reviews that led me to order it in the first place.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 23:16
|
|
|
We don't need another person saying not to regulate with resistors, but I got curious and did some math. 3x 1k and the 40x10 noctua probably would actually work. The noctua is rated at .6w @12v, so we'd expect .05a. You can't expect ohms law to work well around active electronics, but assuming it holds, that works out to 240ohms. It'll probably only hit that on startup, but in series with those resistors, it'd see 10v. As it spins up it would typically draw less, though the unregulated nature of this supply complicates matters. If we just assume that it plateaus at half current (or higher), it would reach a peak voltage of 14v. I have seen computer fans die at 14v, but most do fine. I also found a video of someone saying they ran a larger 12v noctua running at 19v for 45min without problem, though longevity is obviously questionable. Fwiw, it quickly died up at 28v. That leaves power dissipated by the resistors. It'll peak at about 195mW per resistor. Within spec for a 1/4w resistor. Not gonna recommend, but interesting. I think I might have to run the experiment and actually characterize it, particularly the initial current draw.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 23:17
|
|
|
Aurium posted:We don't need another person saying not to regulate with resistors, but I got curious and did some math. CHEP does a complete walk through of what you just described. It fascinating poo poo. [video type=""]https://youtu.be/vjL38udVS24[/video] Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jul 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 23:42
|
|
|
Amusingly, for small enough voltage drops, resistors may well use less power than a regulator of any sort. Though, while resistors will reduce the seen voltage at the fan, they are not ~regulating~. Yes, it's kosher to use resistors to reduce voltage. But you need to look at the power consumed. And know your electrical math.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 00:52
|
|
|
How much waste heat are we talking about dumping, also?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 00:55
|
|
|
just get a small buck converter.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 00:59
|
|
|
Just slap a few diodes on there until the voltage drop is right. (Please don't do this. Or do but take pictures)
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 01:11
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:How much waste heat are we talking about dumping, also? Interestingly, it's pretty close at these low power levels. The resistors are dissipating about .6w total. The small regulator modules ~85% at optimal load, but .05a won't give you optimal. I'm estimating 70%. So conversation losses end up as (.6w / 70%) - .6 for about .25w of waste there. But the module also has a quiescent draw. I found a few threads on the Arduino forums giving various figures. I'm estimating 17ma. Quiescent power would be .408w. Total is .665w dissipated for the buck regulator. Those numbers may not strictly be additive, but it's a reasonable result. Buck converters truly shine when under higher loads. Even just 2 fans would give us ~1.2w (resistors) vs .922 for the converter. And that's only .1a, when the typical converter is good for 3a.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 01:52
|
|
|
Bondematt posted:Just slap a few diodes on there until the voltage drop is right. Everybody forgets that LEDS are just Christmas themed resistors.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 02:18
|
|
|
They are for when you need a way to tell if the resistor is working.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 04:04
|
|
|
Nozzle clog 30 hours into a print 
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 13:40
|
|
|
Marsupial Ape posted:Everybody forgets that LEDS are just Christmas themed resistors. A friend of mine and I figured out how to make a homemade string of LEDs in series that won't burn out if one led shits the bed. It involves Zener diodes, which are cool as gently caress, and some parallel wiring. Though nowadays, none of that poo poo is really necessary with the LED strips that are available. But it was a cool exercise.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 13:57
|
|
|
Toebone posted:Nozzle clog 30 hours into a print I feel ya. I’m trying to print another giant (16”) rainbow silk slug and am have I g nothing but issues. 96 hour print, 900g of filament. 5 hours in the first attempt, nozzle clog. Second attempt I was printing from SD card, but I think the Pi I have plugged in power cycled, which reset the printer about 10 hours in. Third attempt immediately clogged the nozzle, and the extruder chewed up the filament enough to break off in the hotend, so now I’ll need to tear some stuff apart to free things up. At this point, I don’t even think I have enough filament on the spool to finish the print. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 15:54
|
|
|
Without some multi material printer, is there any way to divide up an stl (in prusaslicer?) So that I can print different parts of a model in different colors? I want to print a super big Kirby for someone and woukd like to do the eyes, mouth etc in different filaments then click them all together. Fusion 360 etc obviously, but I'm not sure if there's a more brain-dead method
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 17:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 13:11 |
|
|
If you’re already working with an STL, OnShape, NX, or SOLIDWORKS might be better options. The geometric kernel that drives those got a recent update that makes working with STL files a lot easier (e.g. it reads faces and edge loops from the mesh). I don’t believe Fusion has gotten that yet? But working with mesh files In CAD has gotten way better in the last 12 months. I’d use those so you can make registration features and the like.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2022 17:15
|
|