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Bondematt posted:What do you yall do with spools down to a few meters? I just shitcan mine if it's down to the last few coils. If a print job finishes and I can see the spool's core, into the trash it goes. Not even worth the time to try to figure out what I might be able to print with it.
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Jul 29, 2022 21:32
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Nerobro posted:This goes way beyond the Voron crew, and deep into the "access to machine tools" type person. I really want one beucase it fits (in theroy) into a filament box. That's acutally portable, while most "portable" printers.. aren't really. Oh yeah that's true. He custom machined most of the brass and aluminum parts in the extruder. I hope it takes off and people start making kits for it. w00tmonger posted:Honestly for what it is, the positron looks absolutely killer. Same. I hope they can keep it down to the $400 ish range.
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Jul 29, 2022 21:44
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Oh yeah that's true. He custom machined most of the brass and aluminum parts in the extruder. I hope it takes off and people start making kits for it. it's do-able with a drill press, some taps, a hacksaw, and a file. But it would take you ~a whole day~. It won't be cheap. really no matter what. I'd prefer it to have a magnetic bed versus the glass. :-)
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Jul 29, 2022 21:49
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OK, having found more printable crap that I'd like to have, and skimmed through a bunch of postings in the thread, it's dumbass question time! Apartment dweller, and everywhere but the kitchen and bathroom has horrible deep-pile carpet, which doesn't make for a really stable base - my computer chair doesn't roll, I have to force it to plow through the cushiness - and I'm trying to figure out a cheap, stable workbench or table or the like to drop the printer in. (No headspace above the kitchen counter, and bathroom is  , I'm sure.)I've got an old-school rollaway entertainment center made for a TV and VCR that I'm using for a riser for my desktop PC, but with the wheels removed it seems solid and haven't noticed a lot of vibration from the fans and platter HDs. Cheap lovely beaverboard, though, and it's barely knee-high. Would something like this be stable enough? Horror Freight has a workbench, but I can hear that buzzing just from the picture. Kinda looking at an Elegoo Neptune 3, but any printer is going to need to be stable, right?
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Jul 29, 2022 23:39
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Ygolonac posted:OK, having found more printable crap that I'd like to have, and skimmed through a bunch of postings in the thread, it's dumbass question time! Yeah you want a stable bench. Those would do it but they look kinda cheap and rickety. I got something like this and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/Advzon-Workb...0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Or this would be perfect, but not as portable. https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tool...aps%2C80&sr=8-6
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Jul 29, 2022 23:52
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I have made some recent improvements to my Ender 3 v2. The simplest was swapping out the stock .4mm nozzle for a stainless steel .6mm nozzle. As I posted above, the Arachne engine in Cura and Prusaslicer is supposed to be sophisticated enough to get .4 quality with a .6 nozzle and still take less time. The second was the dual axis Z mod. It was not a hard install and would have been a very easy install if I hadn’t done it stoned at three in the morning. I will tell you right now, the two top bearings with the kit are completely unneeded and only cause problems. There is no binding if you don’t use the top bearings, so there goes that talking point. Also, it was fairly simple to get the two sides level. I just adjusted them by hand and then ran the z-axis up and down a few time. I have drawer full of those tiny bubble levels you some times get with flat pack furniture, and those were very helpful in determining that the z-axis was level on both sides as it traveled up and down. Anyway, here’s another goddam Benchy. Material was PETG and had been dried overnight. I also used of the Arc Welder extension in Cura as well as the adaptive layering feature. I amtrying to get dialed in for PETG, so observations are appreciated.     
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Jul 29, 2022 23:55
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Ygolonac posted:Horror Freight has a workbench, but I can hear that buzzing just from the picture. My two Pretty Big Printers sit on one of these (on a medium pile carpet) and it's absolutely rock solid. There are a lot more bolts holding it together than you might think and it's surprisingly rigid for as cheap as it is. I didn't know the price was still that low on them, I may go grab another one this weekend.
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Jul 30, 2022 00:03
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Acid Reflux posted:My two Pretty Big Printers sit on one of these (on a medium pile carpet) and it's absolutely rock solid. There are a lot more bolts holding it together than you might think and it's surprisingly rigid for as cheap as it is. I didn't know the price was still that low on them, I may go grab another one this weekend. Clearance pricing, apparently - I was looking at these for heavier work, but plans changed. Guess I'll stop off on the way home and wedge it into the back of the van. Thanks for the answers, folks! Next dumb question - the Neptune 3 has "Smart Resume Printing" - does this mean I could pause a job for several hours because of work, and just resume when I got back? Or is it going to glitch out because it was sitting for nine hours?
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Jul 30, 2022 00:39
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Acid Reflux posted:My two Pretty Big Printers sit on one of these (on a medium pile carpet) and it's absolutely rock solid. There are a lot more bolts holding it together than you might think and it's surprisingly rigid for as cheap as it is. I didn't know the price was still that low on them, I may go grab another one this weekend. I have this and love it: https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/workbenches/46-in-mobile-workbench-with-solid-wood-top-black-64012.html It's more money but you can find it on sale occasionally.
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Jul 30, 2022 01:12
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Dr. Despair posted:I think I had a few issues where the heater was having a harder time keeping up with things without the sock, so I reinstalled a sock as soon as I noticed it was missing. I wouldn't run without a sock, especially since they're cheap and can save a lot of things when stuff goes bad (just get em in bright orange or blue or something). Yeah, I took the sock of ages ago, had no issues, then started getting thermal runaway issues. Reinstalling the sock fixed them. I figure this means the real problem is elsewhere, but I've tried poking around in the firmware, replacing the hotend (needed to anyways), etc with no luck so if the silicone sock works, whatever, I'll leave it on.
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Jul 30, 2022 01:55
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Ygolonac posted:Next dumb question - the Neptune 3 has "Smart Resume Printing" - does this mean I could pause a job for several hours because of work, and just resume when I got back? Or is it going to glitch out because it was sitting for nine hours? I think they're referring to the function that lets you resume a print after a complete power failure. A lot of printers will let you pause at will, but in my experience it's really hit or miss as to whether or not it works well. Some firmwares don't actually move the print head away from the current position when you pause, so it just sits there and puts a big melty blob on the model after you stop it. Haven't tested how the Neptune 3 handles all that, and as tempting as it is to go try it on the print that's running right now, I'm gonna just let it continue unmolested.  Tremors posted:I have this and love it:
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Jul 30, 2022 02:31
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Ygolonac posted:Clearance pricing, apparently - I was looking at these for heavier work, but plans changed. You can try, but resuming prints isn't always that easy. It's generally a feature for recovering from a power outage or filament runout, and it's something and best done quickly. The issues are that the bed can cool down (so the part comes off), the printer may not be able to resume in exactly the same spot, it usually tries, but it may not exactly know where it was so it has to rehome the X and Y axes and might do the layer again (I think the printer firmware implementation matters here) and it's just not guaranteed to work well. You'll generally just want to let prints run. If you're worried about a fire hazard while you're away there are some prevention methods but nothing is guaranteed. This is an older video but goes over some of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK_K6fp4BIk BlazeCut makes their extinguishers for a lot of stuff but they did do a little marketing as a 3d printing automatic extinguisher a while back. They're on Tom's amazon link to automatic extinguishers. $120 is a lot for one tube but I guess it's cheaper than fire damage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7wXDTfnmcQ If you're worried about print failures there's some services that can watch your prints and attempt to determine failures. The Spaghetti Detective started as an Octoprint addon but has renamed to Obico and works with Octoprint or Klipper to watch prints and spot failures: https://obico.io/
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Jul 30, 2022 03:32
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Resume on my ender 50% works 50% jams a hot nozzle 3 layers too deep and permanently fucks whatever half-print was left. I wouldn't want to bank on it ever
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Jul 30, 2022 03:35
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Ygolonac posted:
Welp. Not a dumb question, early printers, really depended on a solid surface to work from. Which is TERRIBLE for a tool that's portable. Since the Ender clone revolution, stability doesn't really matter anymore. I ran my Ender 3 on the deep shag in my living room for 3 months. Upside? it's a crapton quieter. Downside.. I mean I had to kneel on the floor to do things to the bed? The neptune 3 will be happy on roughly anything you put it on. It doesn't really care about the stability of the surface it's on. Taken to an extreme... you have this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdCn-xrBLsE
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Jul 30, 2022 03:54
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Yeah, I took the sock of ages ago, had no issues, then started getting thermal runaway issues. Reinstalling the sock fixed them. I figure this means the real problem is elsewhere, but I've tried poking around in the firmware, replacing the hotend (needed to anyways), etc with no luck so if the silicone sock works, whatever, I'll leave it on. I've seen this happen before, and I think it's the main pid loop being tightly (over?) tuned. In my case, I think it wasn't being aggressive enough I'm the initial heating, and when it's no longer insulated the additional load just makes it too slow. Try rerunning the auto tune, if you haven't already when you replaced the hot end.
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Jul 30, 2022 05:58
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I switched to a 0.6 nozzle and my supports are coming out all wiggly, what setting did I forget to tweak?  Ender3 + Prusa slicer
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Jul 30, 2022 12:19
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Toebone posted:I switched to a 0.6 nozzle and my supports are coming out all wiggly, what setting did I forget to tweak? you might just be hitting higher volumetric flow than you used to, and need to slow it down or give it more cooling. check the volumetric flow view in prusaslicer and see if the supports in particular are coming out very fast. if not poke around in the other views and see if anything stands out  e: once you know how quickly your extruder can push a given filament through the nozzle, you can just set a max volumetric speed in superslicer/prusaslicer and set most of the other speeds to zero and it will print everything as close to the max extrusion speed as possible unless you specify. I put a limit on first layer, external perimeters and bridges and let it print everything else as fast as possible poverty goat fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Jul 30, 2022 |
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Jul 30, 2022 12:35
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Toebone posted:I switched to a 0.6 nozzle and my supports are coming out all wiggly, what setting did I forget to tweak? Probably a stupid question, but you changed the Nozzle size under Printer Settings, right?
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Jul 30, 2022 22:07
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Marsupial Ape posted:For those of you who own Ender 3 V2s that have done the direct drive upgrade, could you share what upgrade frames you used? There are too many choices out there, so I am just going to defer to experience. If you happen to be using one or more Noctua 4020 fans on your hot ends, I’d appreciate some input on that, too. I went with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085ZRPT15/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Easy installation, also gives you a metal extruder kit if you don't already have one. The fan shroud I already had printed cleared it as well, with about 1/8" of modification. Anyone else enter the Prusa 3d models contests for laughs? I've made a few ridiculous things for them. I try to enter the silliest poo poo I can think of, the current one is Sharpie Mods, so I made goddamn rocket fins. https://www.printables.com/model/251170-sharpie-rocket-fins
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Jul 31, 2022 02:14
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TerminalSaint posted:Probably a stupid question, but you changed the Nozzle size under Printer Settings, right? Yeah, if you look the actual perimeter walls we’re printing nicely, but the supports and infill are all noodley.
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Jul 31, 2022 02:44
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Aurium posted:I've seen this happen before, and I think it's the main pid loop being tightly (over?) tuned. In my case, I think it wasn't being aggressive enough I'm the initial heating, and when it's no longer insulated the additional load just makes it too slow. I did try that, didn't seem to make a difference. I think there must be some other variable at play as it printed for months without the sock and had no runaway errors, then started doing it one day. It was intermittent at ABS temps (and didn't happen with PLA) but seemed to get worse over time. Someone posted a few weeks back about the two types of 3D printer owners; the ones who love tinkering, optimising, and modding for its own sake, and people with other hobbies who see it as a means to an end and just want it to print and not cause drama. Although I'm a pretty curious person by nature (and definitely a tinkerer), I'm pretty firmly in the latter camp given my somewhat scarce free time. I ordered the Creality direct drive extruder kit last month since it was so cheap, but wrestling with whether it's worth risking screwing up the install on a printer that's generally performing well atm... Currently printing a medium format (film) panoramic camera, hoping to post up results in a few weeks once it's done.
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Jul 31, 2022 09:58
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Something just occurred to me: Will spray painting a hot end shroud made of PLA with heat resistant grill paint protect it from the radiant heat? I am getting sick of PETG and I have the paint in the garage.
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Jul 31, 2022 13:16
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I'd say not in a way that matters, no. Heat resistance in paint would just mean that the paint itself could tackle the temps, not that it'd insulate or protect the material under from the temps. What you'd want in a case like that would be like, covering it with aluminium foil to reflect the heat a bit, or something to physically insulate it. https://www.amazon.com/SmartSHIELD-...ps%2C147&sr=8-1 Something like that both protects from radiant heat, as well as insulates a bit, but the thickness would make it very difficult to implement into a design. (But maybe you can find some thinner insulation material that might protect the PLA more.) Aluminium foil tapes might be a good option, and might also hold the PLA in place a bit more if it does start sagging a bit. That said, I have no idea how well or how long something like this would protect the PLA from the temps in practice/use. I think if you'd want a PLA shroud you'd be better of making it larger to give it more space/air, or have active cooling. I'm guessing since you're not mentioning ABS that both ABS and ABA are off the table? Alternatively, if PETG is being a hassle, why not buy a print from someone else, so that they have to deal with it? Might be the easiest solution to just getting something that works.
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Jul 31, 2022 13:51
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Toebone posted:Yeah, if you look the actual perimeter walls we’re printing nicely, but the supports and infill are all noodley. Another stupid question - did you also readjust the support line width and such?
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Jul 31, 2022 14:23
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SubNat posted:Alternatively, if PETG is being a hassle, why not buy a print from someone else, so that they have to deal with it? Might be the easiest solution to just getting something that works. If I do that, then I might as well as start paying for coffee and handjobs and everything thing else I can do better myself. I totally forgot about the existence of aluminum tape. Honestly, I think that Overture’s rock colored PETG is just kind of lovely. I’ll do it in transparent, which I have gotten good results with, before. ABS I will tackle when I finally get around to putting together a tent and exhaust system.
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Jul 31, 2022 14:25
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OK, next dumb question (image how many I'll have one the infernal machine is delivered!): the workbench (which I've need for quite some time) will also be home to various other tool-y stuff. If I don't want to continually coat the printer with dust and poo poo from other work, will covering it with a plastic trash bag be a valid (non-murder-by-static) solution? (If my Chinese Dremel clone (Wen 2305) threads into the Dremel workstation (ordered, not delivered) properly, Babby's First Drill Press is going to live on then other end of the bench from the Hot'n'Soft Serv Dispenser, and there's going to be all sorts of dust from that going on.) Ooooh. If I can filamentize meat and spices, I can print my own pre-cooked sausages... 
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Jul 31, 2022 18:30
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Ygolonac posted:OK, next dumb question (image how many I'll have one the infernal machine is delivered!): the workbench (which I've need for quite some time) will also be home to various other tool-y stuff. If I don't want to continually coat the printer with dust and poo poo from other work, will covering it with a plastic trash bag be a valid (non-murder-by-static) solution? Trash bag should work fine, I wouldn't worry about static getting to anything. There are a bunch of cheap and DIY enclosure ideas since it's a generally good idea to enclose your printer if you can anyway. also i dunno about a printer for sausages but someone did make a printer out of sausages once https://all3dp.com/neon-brown-3d-printed-sausage-robot/
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Jul 31, 2022 18:58
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Marsupial Ape posted:Something just occurred to me: Will spray painting a hot end shroud made of PLA with heat resistant grill paint protect it from the radiant heat? I am getting sick of PETG and I have the paint in the garage. No Lining the inside with aluminum foil, or actual aluminized duct tape? .... very slightly yes, maybe 30% reflected, maybe more I think you're mixing up resistant with reflective. A coating will not somehow improve the inherent properties of the object it's coating. You can however, reflect away much of the heat
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Jul 31, 2022 20:28
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Bondematt posted:What do you yall do with spools down to a few meters? https://www.printables.com/contest/70-last-meters
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Jul 31, 2022 23:16
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Ygolonac posted:Ooooh. If I can filamentize meat and spices, I can print my own pre-cooked sausages... Isn't there a chocolate printer? Sausage printer sounds greasy
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Aug 1, 2022 02:55
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Crosspost from PYF Funny Pic
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Aug 1, 2022 09:14
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Speaking of bearing down, I just finished my direct drive mode. Even with the second z screw, the weight of the stepper brought my z off set my a full 1mm. The first layer of the test print I just started looks like a sheet of black ice.
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Aug 1, 2022 09:49
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RabbitWizard posted:27grams of gold&black are already waiting for me, I'm really excited if this will look like poo poo or totally awesome.   I also bought a second printer. Another Ender3, with BLtouch and extended wires from running in an enclosure before. I've been looking some times over the last weeks for one and just had to get it for 80€. Works totally fine with my current print settings, so I don't have to run different profiles. Well, it works for prints with a big base, after using PEI for months using the creality glass plate on this one feels like a punishment. I didn't really want to buy any additional stuff for this one as it will run somewhere where it can be noisy. Let's see if I manage to make the glass plate work or throw it out the window in the next week. How can I use the BLtouch to level my bed? Compiling new firmware would be ok or some software that works on Windows. I don't have a Pi and won't buy one, I do however have 2 old laptops so setting up another operating system would also work.
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Aug 1, 2022 21:51
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Is there any alternative to PTFE tube that will work up around 300c? I'm looking at getting an Anycubic Kobra because I can't stand not having a printer anymore and I can't afford even a Prusa Mini but they have some kind of proprietary hot end design as far as I can tell that won't even take a standard heatbreak size so I can't just get a bimetal heatbreak. This is their design in case it's actually some old design that nobody uses anymore but does have parts out there: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/for-kobra-series/products/hotend-for-kobra
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Aug 1, 2022 22:31
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Managed to dial in the settings for this IC3D rPETG and get a good print of this ...thingy finally.   Probably more work than it was worth since I didn't really think about the fact that they'll be baking in the sun 12 hours a day and are likely to fail eventually... so probably will end up running cables through those little eyelets on the light strands at some point so it isn't getting tugged on so hard
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Aug 1, 2022 22:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there any alternative to PTFE tube that will work up around 300c? I'm looking at getting an Anycubic Kobra because I can't stand not having a printer anymore and I can't afford even a Prusa Mini but they have some kind of proprietary hot end design as far as I can tell that won't even take a standard heatbreak size so I can't just get a bimetal heatbreak. I bought some stainless tubing of the same dimensions as the teflon to try in my hodgepodge direct drive extruder to keep the filament more contained. Maybe think that direction?
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Aug 1, 2022 23:09
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CH Science posted:Managed to dial in the settings for this IC3D rPETG and get a good print of this ...thingy finally. Hello fellow Costco string light owner Care to share the STL? That ought to be fine for at least a year, probably 2-3 if you hit it with some black spray paint. Pla is UV sensitive but the outer layer tends to provide a sacrificial coating
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Aug 1, 2022 23:30
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CH Science posted:Managed to dial in the settings for this IC3D rPETG and get a good print of this ...thingy finally. Did you find yours to be really wet & stringy?
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Aug 1, 2022 23:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there any alternative to PTFE tube that will work up around 300c? I'm looking at getting an Anycubic Kobra because I can't stand not having a printer anymore and I can't afford even a Prusa Mini but they have some kind of proprietary hot end design as far as I can tell that won't even take a standard heatbreak size so I can't just get a bimetal heatbreak. It seems like a bad idea to get a printer that you want to print 300C on that can't use an all metal hotend. Just get a different printer that can. Ender 3 V2 plus an all metal hotend would be about the same price as that Anycubic.
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Aug 1, 2022 23:38
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there any alternative to PTFE tube that will work up around 300c? I'm looking at getting an Anycubic Kobra because I can't stand not having a printer anymore and I can't afford even a Prusa Mini but they have some kind of proprietary hot end design as far as I can tell that won't even take a standard heatbreak size so I can't just get a bimetal heatbreak. All of the alternative tubing would cost as much as an all metal hotend. Might be able to look into PEEK in the same dimensions as regular PTFE but its still going to be pricey. Also nothing Anycubic has is proprietary, just poorly documented. Post a pic.
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Aug 2, 2022 00:33
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