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Hadlock posted:Hello fellow Costco string light owner Not at home at the moment but yeah I’ll put it up on the verse when I get back this evening and post a link insta posted:Did you find yours to be really wet & stringy? Yep that exactly. Ended up running 30% part cooling at 240/75 to keep it from globing up. Probably sacrificing some strength between layers but seems mostly fine so far
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Aug 2, 2022 00:55
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And.. like.. a year later, my V0 FINALLY is sitting on my 3d printer counter. And my Ender is out in the garage.
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Aug 2, 2022 01:04
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Nerobro posted:And.. like.. a year later, my V0 FINALLY is sitting on my 3d printer counter. And my Ender is out in the garage. Lmao my 0.1 is in a box under my workbench still. I should really print that instead of printing upgrades for my V2...
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Aug 2, 2022 01:15
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Rexxed posted:It seems like a bad idea to get a printer that you want to print 300C on that can't use an all metal hotend. Just get a different printer that can. Ender 3 V2 plus an all metal hotend would be about the same price as that Anycubic. I own two Enders that are not working, I'm never buying anything that requires manual leveling ever again. Although finding out that the bed was warped after about 5-6 hours of troubleshooting the last one made that even worse. biracial bear for uncut posted:All of the alternative tubing would cost as much as an all metal hotend.  The only thing I can find anyone having done is replacing the whole hotend and extruder block with a Titan aero. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Aug 2, 2022 |
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Aug 2, 2022 01:16
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Hadlock posted:Care to share the STL? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5446714/files
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Aug 2, 2022 03:50
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mewse posted:Fysetc is selling a superpinda clone now. I wonder how it compares to the genuine one. Just got mine a week or so ago. I can't say how it compares to the real deal, but it's currently laying down a perfect first layer on a very not flat bed. It also allowed me to capture almost the whole bed since I can tuck it closer to the hotend than the Triangle Lab 3D Touch (knockoff BL Touch) I had. Looking at the numbers this is putting out, something was fucky with my 3D Touch as the SPINDA is showing about half the variation my 3D Touch was. ~0.17 over the bed where the touch was showing ~0.31. I also picked up a BTT Smart Filament Runout sensor and it does great at the sensing part, but I get a false positive on the purge line. Not sure what to do there, I can set the trip higher, but I'm at 15 and it still does it. Only fired on a print when I ran out of filament, so not sure if there's a way to disable the interrupt for like the first minute or maybe couple moves of a print?  Edit: Oh I guess I can just not purge and rely on the skirt instead... Bondematt fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Aug 2, 2022 |
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Aug 2, 2022 06:34
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Do filament dryers work well for ABS? That's mainly what I print, the eSun Lite unit I was looking at says it does ABS but tops out at like 55C, whereas the instructions online say to put it in your oven at 80C. I dried a spool in my oven last week and it worked a treat, but it's a little annoying (and my partner is definitely not a fan of the idea).
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Aug 2, 2022 10:08
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Do filament dryers work well for ABS? That's mainly what I print, the eSun Lite unit I was looking at says it does ABS but tops out at like 55C, whereas the instructions online say to put it in your oven at 80C. Yeah, if it's wet and the drying helps it, a filament dryer or food dehydrator is a good buy. I'm not sure you need to be at 80 to get the water out, it may just be a recommended oven temperature since a lot of real ovens won't go below that. CNC Kitchen compared drying in a vacuum chamber to a food dehydrator that had a max of 70C and it looked like he left it at around 45C and measured the weight decrease. The dehydrator was better than the vacuum for his tests although that's not what you wanted to know. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqQRN9TUw08 He was using ASA instead of ABS but they're very similar.
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Aug 2, 2022 10:27
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I may use my dehydrator for actual food, one of these days.
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Aug 2, 2022 11:55
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I now have a second question: Has anyone got tips on pushing the limits of print size on an Ender 3 Pro? Z isn't a problem, but I have a project in mind that is bang on 220mm for X and Y dimensions. I don't use binder clips or anything as the glass bed the PO installed seems to be glued on, but have not been able to find the settings in Cura to open up those greyed out edges on the build plate that people online have mentioned. Rexxed posted:Yeah, if it's wet and the drying helps it, a filament dryer or food dehydrator is a good buy. I'm not sure you need to be at 80 to get the water out, it may just be a recommended oven temperature since a lot of real ovens won't go below that. Ah, that's nice to hear! Mostly I just leave a spool of black ABS on my printer and chug away, so having something that will keep it dry + feed it into the printer is what I want.
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Aug 2, 2022 11:56
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"greyed out edges on the buildplate" in cura are clearance for a skirt/brim/raft. if all of these are disabled and you still have a grey margin, 
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Aug 2, 2022 12:10
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Has anyone got tips on pushing the limits of print size on an Ender 3 Pro? https://3dprintscape.com/how-to-remove-the-disallowed-areas-in-cura/
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Aug 2, 2022 15:12
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How much cooling do TMC stepper drivers really need? That fan has died on my i3 mega s, should I just replace it with the quietest thing and call it a day? It it worth upgrading to get more uniform cooling over all of them or am I overthinking it? That's not mine but you can see the stock configuration there. Right now the best I could do w/ parts on hand were two 40mm fans side by side in the 50mm bracket, and it works well and provides better coverage, but they're too loud so it's not going to work for long.
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Aug 2, 2022 15:12
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poverty goat posted:How much cooling do TMC stepper drivers really need? That fan has died on my i3 mega s, should I just replace it with the quietest thing and call it a day? It it worth upgrading to get more uniform cooling over all of them or am I overthinking it? They need air moving over the heatsinks, the 2208 runs very hot, 2209 is better but still needs cooling.
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Aug 2, 2022 15:54
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For what it's worth, my previous board uses 2209s and the X axis driver is the only part that failed. It is also the one furthest from the fan.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:22
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Ah, that's nice to hear! Mostly I just leave a spool of black ABS on my printer and chug away, so having something that will keep it dry + feed it into the printer is what I want. My understanding is that even just a small tupperware tub with a hole cut in it for the filament and some dessicant in the bottom should work for a decent amount of time. That said I live in a desert so I don't worry about it.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I own two Enders that are not working, I'm never buying anything that requires manual leveling ever again. Although finding out that the bed was warped after about 5-6 hours of troubleshooting the last one made that even worse. My brother and I were talking about filament printers the other day, and I said much the same thing. I bought an Ender 3 and then later an Ender 5 to "learn on", and what I "learned" is that as I've gotten older, my patience for troubleshooting a super finicky 3d printer from Creality is nonexistent. 
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Aug 2, 2022 16:50
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Rexxed posted:They need air moving over the heatsinks, the 2208 runs very hot, 2209 is better but still needs cooling. Serenade posted:For what it's worth, my previous board uses 2209s and the X axis driver is the only part that failed. It is also the one furthest from the fan. thanks. they are 2208s. I might see about a duct for them or just keep the dual 40mm setup w/ quieter fans.
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Aug 2, 2022 17:15
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Sydney Bottocks posted:My brother and I were talking about filament printers the other day, and I said much the same thing. I bought an Ender 3 and then later an Ender 5 to "learn on", and what I "learned" is that as I've gotten older, my patience for troubleshooting a super finicky 3d printer from Creality is nonexistent. I've releveled my Ender 3's bed more in the past 2 weeks than in the entire 4 years I was using my i3mega almost daily. It's not a "manual leveling" thing, it's just really easy for creality's beds to come out of whack. Yellow springs and everything. Next time I have to fix this bed I'm just going to remove the springs and thumbwheels, hardmount it with 8 M4 wingnuts, and let mesh leveling do the rest.
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Aug 2, 2022 17:45
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Sydney Bottocks posted:My brother and I were talking about filament printers the other day, and I said much the same thing. I bought an Ender 3 and then later an Ender 5 to "learn on", and what I "learned" is that as I've gotten older, my patience for troubleshooting a super finicky 3d printer from Creality is nonexistent. Get a CR Touch. It’s a game changer. After you insert the G29 command into your gcode, the machine auto levels before each print. All I do is manually set my z offset.
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Aug 2, 2022 18:10
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Bondematt posted:Just got mine a week or so ago. I can't say how it compares to the real deal, but it's currently laying down a perfect first layer on a very not flat bed. It also allowed me to capture almost the whole bed since I can tuck it closer to the hotend than the Triangle Lab 3D Touch (knockoff BL Touch) I had. Looking at the numbers this is putting out, something was fucky with my 3D Touch as the SPINDA is showing about half the variation my 3D Touch was. ~0.17 over the bed where the touch was showing ~0.31. Interesting, glad to hear they might not be total trash. I might try the statistical analysis they did with this video to compare genuine vs clone, once my clones arrive and I get my printer rebuilt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh-3cVcwLVY Weird about that filament sensor triggering on the purge line, I can't think of why that would happen
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Aug 2, 2022 18:11
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I just ordered an Ender 3 S1 Plus and am kind of having buyer's remorse. I've heard a lot about QA issues and even if I win the QA lottery and it's a great printer out of the box, I i feel like the price point may be a bit much ($550) for what it is. I'm now looking into coredy printers, since my main reqs for this machine are a bigger print bed, auto leveling, and faster print speeds. I only print pla today but would like to easily do petg and tpu, so direct drive would be nice. Does anyone have any experience with the TronXY X5SA corexy printer? That looks like it fits all my needs and is $200 cheaper than the ender.
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Aug 2, 2022 18:34
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Marsupial Ape posted:Get a CR Touch. It’s a game changer. After you insert the G29 command into your gcode, the machine auto levels before each print. All I do is manually set my z offset. At least for me fiddling with a printer includes doing anything that's not a plug and play mod. Like if I had a V6 hotend I'd swap in a high flow hotend and a bigger nozzle and adjust slicer settings, but I'm not going to try messing with mounting new stuff or fan shrouds or anything like that. Working on printers makes me hate printing.
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Aug 2, 2022 19:21
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Mikey Purp posted:Does anyone have any experience with the TronXY X5SA corexy printer? That looks like it fits all my needs and is $200 cheaper than the ender.
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Aug 2, 2022 19:23
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mewse posted:Interesting, glad to hear they might not be total trash. I might try the statistical analysis they did with this video to compare genuine vs clone, once my clones arrive and I get my printer rebuilt: is there a reason nobody here ever mentions ezabl? it's touchless, non-mechanical and temp agnostic. I got a really strong recommendation for them early on. https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezabl-pro-plug-print-auto-bed-leveling-kit/
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Aug 2, 2022 21:39
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poverty goat posted:is there a reason nobody here ever mentions ezabl? it's touchless, non-mechanical and temp agnostic. I got a really strong recommendation for them early on. because it's TH3D and gently caress TH3D
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Aug 2, 2022 22:44
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insta posted:because it's TH3D and gently caress TH3D What did they do?
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Aug 2, 2022 23:04
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Alright so I've decided to cancel my Ender 3 S1 Plus and just go whole hog with a voron 2.4A kit. I've heard it's not great at printing pla, but if it can get me the same or better quality and speed while printing PETG or ABS then that'll work just fine for my purposes. The formbot kits seem pretty decent and I like that I won't have to source and print a bunch of parts on my own, so I think that's the way I will go. My only question is if there's a big advantage to upgrading to the phaestus high flow over the stock hotend? Will that allow for faster print speeds without a reduction in quality?
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Aug 2, 2022 23:19
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Mikey Purp posted:Alright so I've decided to cancel my Ender 3 S1 Plus and just go whole hog with a voron 2.4A kit. I've heard it's not great at printing pla, but if it can get me the same or better quality and speed while printing PETG or ABS then that'll work just fine for my purposes. The Stealthburner helps, and if you wanna stick with an ERCF compatible hot end, the loud owl, and other cooling solutions solve the PLA problem quite nicely. Also, 270 deg doors. Are you under the impression that the formbot kit comes with printed parts? As far as i'm aware, nobody is shipping a kit with printed parts. There is no "stock" hot end for the Voron. That said, the default for kits seems to be V6. Most printers are limited by the hot end flow rate, and cooling. Quality mostly comes from tuning. A well tuned printer, can spit out parts real fast without problem. So now you need to do some printing. :-) I printed all my parts on my Ender 3... so you're in good shape there.
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Aug 2, 2022 23:28
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Ah, I was under the impression that the formbot kit included everything included the printed parts. But yeah I can def do it on my own. Is there a recommended material? I'm assuming pla wouldn't be ideal.
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Aug 3, 2022 00:01
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Mikey Purp posted:Ah, I was under the impression that the formbot kit included everything included the printed parts. But yeah I can def do it on my own. Is there a recommended material? I'm assuming pla wouldn't be ideal. Abs only. Time to read the manual. Stat
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Aug 3, 2022 00:24
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Yep...quickly realizing that I don't have a full understanding of what I'm getting into. This should be fun 😊
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Aug 3, 2022 00:58
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Nerobro posted:Abs only. Time to read the manual. Stat What if you have a bunch of ASA?
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Aug 3, 2022 01:18
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What if you have a bunch of ASA? Voron parts are designed around the mechanical properties of ABS. ASA is unofficially fine as it has very similar qualities but the parts are designed to be printed with a decent ABS (so not the el cheapo aliexpress branded rolls). Anecdotally, the main difference most people will notice between ABS & ASA is the quality of ingredients between them. If you use a decent quality ABS you probably won't notice much if any difference between them. Tornhelm fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Aug 3, 2022 |
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Aug 3, 2022 02:29
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22 Eargesplitten posted:At least for me fiddling with a printer includes doing anything that's not a plug and play mod. Like if I had a V6 hotend I'd swap in a high flow hotend and a bigger nozzle and adjust slicer settings, but I'm not going to try messing with mounting new stuff or fan shrouds or anything like that. Working on printers makes me hate printing. That’s cool. I am a tinkerer (and worrier) so I love taking apart my printer and putting it back together. Should you decide to get a CR-Touch or equivalent, it is a very simple up grade. The motherboard already has a pin slot for it and there are mounting holes already in the carriage. Flashing the new firmware is super easy. Honestly, I spend the most time on snaking that new wire through the goddam mesh sleeve. When I get off work I’m going to install some new fans on my hot end, but I have to undo the wire harness first because I want to put JST plugs on the power lines so I can swap out fans easily. I’m way too jazzed about it.
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Aug 3, 2022 04:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:What if you have a bunch of ASA? As a rule. With Voron, if you have this funny thought of "they mustn't have thought of that." You're ~wrong~. Sadly, a lot of that is behind a "paywall". ASA has been done successfully. But the color selection isn't as good. ABS was chosen ~in specific~ for several of it's properties. It's best not to deviate. Given that you're only looking at $30-70 of ABS... compared to the $400-2000 you're gonna spend on the project in total, it's best not to try to second guess guys who really sorted this out. At least once a week someone chimes in about printing theirs in PETG or something "so they can print it in abs later" and.. never get to later. Because the printer fails.
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Aug 3, 2022 05:04
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ASA is fine for Voron parts, stop worrying.
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Aug 3, 2022 07:16
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Wibla posted:ASA is fine for Voron parts, stop worrying. Nobody is worrying, especially the person who asked. mohel fearing bear is trolling. I was making a point about what goes into the Voron published designs in general. Along the same lines, the sizes that are published are "there for a reason". If you'd like more reason for why on that, Stuff Made Here demonstrated it clearly on his latest video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gu_1S77XkiM While I built the v0 it was ~decidedly beta~ and I had to do a lot to make it a decent thing to build. I knew that going in, and.. was prepared. It needed an IEC port, a plate to cover the electronics bay, a way to retain the reverse bowden, some sort of display, and... I think.. that's it? And the manual was ~not good~. And most of the tech was just directly stripped from any of the "current" vorons. Which doens't make sense for a 120mm platform. So, definitely beta. They got all that revised, and released the .1. With the 0.1 it's pretty darned done. But.. there's not enough for me to want to convert to a 0.1.
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Aug 3, 2022 07:40
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got a sub-20 minute benchy out of my i3 mega s w/ a .8 nozzle and arachne  pardon the really cheap petg that needs tuning
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Aug 3, 2022 15:40
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Nerobro posted:Nobody is worrying, especially the person who asked. mohel fearing bear is trolling. I was making a point about what goes into the Voron published designs in general. I asked because it's what I have and I know it prints *perfectly* on one of my printers with the default slicer settings (where ABS has never printed well for me, even when it was Prusament).
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Aug 3, 2022 15:50
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