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QuarkJets posted:There's a little alcove above the closet in our bedroom, I think it'd be useful for storing lightweight stuff (Christmas decorations, wrapping paper, etc). But I'd like to conceal that area with something decorative Try 4’ folding screen or 4’ room divider. Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oriental-Furniture-4-ft-Natural-4-Panel-Room-Divider-CLDXBT-NAT/300836788
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Aug 21, 2022 07:32
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:with a wire brush and a power drill it'll come off really fast n easy Update: after trying the other methods, this brute force one was the actually effective one. That stuff was like concrete!
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Aug 21, 2022 11:35
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H110Hawk posted:My suggestion of filler was basically trying to be as frugal as possible and I only had a 2" off cut with which to work in the original post. (You said you were broke, I was very much trying to land within one bottle of wood glue in price. For now. Thanks for the suggestions, can't wait to start this unnecessarily complicated project.
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Aug 21, 2022 12:56
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Slugworth posted:A) Using the cut-off from the door is a great idea. I'm cutting 3-4" off the bottom, so I'll have plenty of scrap. I have done this when I removed a surface bolt lock from my back door. Take a measurement of the opening and measure it against the inside diameter of hole saws at you hardware store. Get the closest size that fits, go up if you have to. Cut your plug. You can absolutely do this with a hand drill, just proceed gently. Using a long bolt and two nuts with washers, create a stem that securely holds the plug that you can fasten into your drill. Fix a piece of 40-grit sandpaper to a block. Using your drill as a hand-held lathe, sand the plug down until it fits snugly. Coat with wood glue & insert. It'll help it you can use a C-clamp & thin wood scraps on either side of the repair, with waxed paper in between the scraps & the plug. Let sit overnight, then sand it down. It may be too late for this - but is there enough room to cut the door panel on the plug side, then flip the door around so that it's now the hinge side? Even if 2" doesn't fully cut out the knob hole - you could still do this after plugging the hole since it's unlikely that the (cut down) plug repair will land on a hinge plate. Even if it does, you can use longer hinge screws to run through the plug repair to the door slab. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Aug 21, 2022 |
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Aug 21, 2022 14:29
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Slugworth posted:A) Using the cut-off from the door is a great idea. I'm cutting 3-4" off the bottom, so I'll have plenty of scrap. Buy a dowel rod at 2-1/8” and cut disks using a circular or table saw to the thickness of the door, then do as everyone else said and wood filler that in there. It doesn’t make any sense to try to cut 6 circular blanks compared to slicing off a dowel rod, at least to me.
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Aug 21, 2022 15:01
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Slugworth posted:Very fair. Too poor to spend like 1,500 on doors to replace the perfectly serviceable existing ones, but currently capable of spending more than a bottle of glue.  Yeah an extra $100 definitely makes it a lot easier to manage. Looks like painterofcrap had some smart ways to make this even better.Flipping them means mortising hinges from scratch. Which you might wind up doing anyway. You can patch the existing stuff with toothpicks+woodglue to fill the drilled holes and strips of whatever and glue (see the theme here?) and a long clamp or filler. Harbor freight has decent enough cheap long clamps. If you get them in there, trimmed, and clamp your hinge patch over it you should be ready to go in 24hrs. Be generous with the wood glue, and wipe off whatever seeps out. You don't need it globbed on there but it should look like you painted it on both sides.
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Aug 21, 2022 16:54
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Lawnie posted:Buy a dowel rod at 2-1/8” and cut disks using a circular or table saw to the thickness of the door, then do as everyone else said and wood filler that in there. It doesn’t make any sense to try to cut 6 circular blanks compared to slicing off a dowel rod, at least to me. PainterofCrap posted:Using your drill as a hand-held lathe, sand the plug down until it fits snugly
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Aug 21, 2022 17:29
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Slugworth posted:I'd been toying with this idea, but I always hear it's bad for the drill's bearings. You’re probably ok, just wrap or sandwich the sand paper a bit so there’s less lateral force. I think the bigger issues come from trying to use a drill as a router.
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Aug 21, 2022 18:47
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but not sure where to post it, so... Last year I bought a new house. It's great but I still have to finish my attic. As you can see from the pics, insulation etc is all taken care of. All I have to do is place some drywall and put down some flooring. I figure I should do the walls first before I start with the floor. This is what it looks like right now:   My plan is to screw some sort of metal railing to my rafters and then screw the drywall sheets onto that metal. That way the metal is able to flex a little bit, accounting for the "movement" of the wood.  Is this a good idea? Are there better solutions? Is there something obvious I'm missing here? The lower, straight piece of the wall is 1m high. Would it be a problem if I cut drywall sheets in chunks of 1m and place them all next to eachother? AFAIK, ideally you want your sheets of drywall staggered, but I don't think that matters on such a low wall?
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Aug 21, 2022 20:15
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Slugworth posted:Looking for some clever ideas for a dumb problem I've caused for myself. We found a great deal on some solid doors that we've been wanting to replace in our house (20 bucks per door), only problem being they're 2 inches too wide, and already cut for knobs.
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Aug 21, 2022 20:26
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i like nice words
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I'm trying to remove this desk drawer with metal glides. It doesn't have the "levers" to remove it and I don't see any plastic stops either. This is the best pic I could get of the glide. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Aug 21, 2022 20:34
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Some times you remove them by picking up the front of the drawer when it is fully extended. The wheels lift up through a gap in the top of the rail with no levers etc. involved.
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Aug 21, 2022 20:44
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Can you unscrew the drawer from the rails? Maybe at that point there's a hole in the rail that allows you to access the screw nearest the desk edge.
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Aug 21, 2022 21:10
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Hi again thread, thanks for the electrical help. I'll probably be a frequent complainer/help beggar for a while on account of this being my first owned home.  What's the best way to go about fixing this? Just caulk it up? I'm mostly worried about water getting in from the shower, even if it's just a little bit.
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Aug 21, 2022 21:57
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What's the best way to patch drywall around a pipe? A rat made it into our garage and then chewed a hole between the garage and kitchen drywall around the sink's drain pipe into the under cabinet space. The exterminators we have a contract with are fixing the hole they chewed in the siding to get into the house and are dealing with the rat, but they say the contract doesn't cover interior damage so we gotta fix that, ideally without paying a shitton of money to contractors for what is hopefully a small easy job? I've done drywall patches before, but never around a pipe like this.
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Aug 21, 2022 22:09
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What are your thoughts on expanding foam? Picture please. Otherwise trace the patch on cardboard, transfer to patch, patch, prime. Caulk around pipe.
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Aug 21, 2022 23:06
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Anne Whateley posted:I'm a dumb idiot, but can I ask why you can't just trim the hinge side? But damned if it's not tempting.
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Aug 21, 2022 23:06
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withak posted:Some times you remove them by picking up the front of the drawer when it is fully extended. The wheels lift up through a gap in the top of the rail with no levers etc. involved. Flipperwaldt posted:Can you unscrew the drawer from the rails? Maybe at that point there's a hole in the rail that allows you to access the screw nearest the desk edge.  The rest is covered up by the connection between the glides and the drawer. I feel like there must be something obvious here that I'm missing...
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Aug 21, 2022 23:57
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I feel like there must be something obvious here that I'm missing... Pulling on it pretty hard is probably what you're missing. I've run into some that are just friction fit at the end. I mean, don't go crazy in case that's not it, but pulling it out the last 6 inches pretty hard and seeing if slamming it on the end stops make it move further is a good test.
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Aug 21, 2022 23:59
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H110Hawk posted:What are your thoughts on expanding foam? I shoulda thought of expanding foam. That should be super quick and easy.
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Aug 22, 2022 00:05
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Slugworth posted:Time to get good at hinge mortises. Which means it's time to get a good set of sharp chisels, or sharpen yours. I have mortised hinge bays using a router, and using chisels (I was terrified of using a hammer & chisel because of experience using (you guessed it) a dull chisel. You want them wicked sharp. And then it's fun: you start out practicing a bit, on scrap. Notch the perimeter to the depth of the plate, and then start peeling wood - slowly. Once you get a feel for the chisel - the angles, the force of the hammer blow - you get a fair sense of how it'll behave. You have far more control than you think. The only issue I've had is keeping the thin border of the outside edge of the door frame from splitting off. Maybe some other goon has a pointer for that, but I am not good at retaining those strips intact. Fortunately it doesn't bother me much as it's not that noticeable. Arguably you can glue it back on...
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Aug 22, 2022 03:38
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PainterofCrap posted:The only issue I've had is keeping the thin border of the outside edge of the door frame from splitting off. Maybe some other goon has a pointer for that, but I am not good at retaining those strips intact. Fortunately it doesn't bother me much as it's not that noticeable. Arguably you can glue it back on...
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Aug 22, 2022 04:02
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Motronic posted:Pulling on it pretty hard is probably what you're missing. I've run into some that are just friction fit at the end. I mean, don't go crazy in case that's not it, but pulling it out the last 6 inches pretty hard and seeing if slamming it on the end stops make it move further is a good test.
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Aug 22, 2022 05:27
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shut up blegum posted:Not sure if this is the right thread, but not sure where to post it, so... you can just fasten them right to the wooden studs & rafters! It doesn't look like the 1m high wall sections are insulated so maybe fit something in there before you close i it off
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Aug 22, 2022 11:37
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:you can just fasten them right to the wooden studs & rafters! It doesn't look like the 1m high wall sections are insulated so maybe fit something in there before you close i it off Thanks BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress. Fastening them straight to the wooden rafters was my first idea. But I wasn't sure if the rafters are straight enough (I think they are) and I'm afraid the sheets of drywall will crack/break/bend /whatever. The metal will absorb the movement on the wood, and the drywall will stay in place. At least that's what I think about it. It would be a lot cheaper if I could just screw them onto the existing rafters though... shut up blegum fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Aug 22, 2022 |
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Aug 22, 2022 18:02
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EDIT: Didn't notice the Tools thread had turned into a series of weird posts regarding this so I'm removing it for now.
I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Aug 22, 2022 |
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Aug 22, 2022 19:15
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Okay, so, water leaks. Noticed the plaster bubbling in a corner, baseboard is damp. House was built in 1922, stone foundation, an addition with a block foundation was put on at some point. I'm seeing signs of water inside mostly at the bottom of the wall near the floor. Today I noticed this outside : This moss was wet to the touch, and appears to be directly where the seam between original house and addition meet. This is directly outside from where I'm seeing moisture inside. Here's a wider view of this wall, the original part of the roof is wider than the addition, so there is a small gutter with downspout on the wider section of roof.  Addition roof has a pretty gentle slope, climbed up and took a closer look at the small gutter.    It looks to me like water can drip from the flashing, miss the end of the gutter, drip behind the siding, and run down the inside of the wall. I'm going to be removing the drywall/plaster that's wet, but does this look like a likely leak source? Dont want to fix the inside if it keeps leaking, what is the proper repair for the leak? We've lived in this house since 2015, not sure when the leak started but I would say fairly recently. The roof and siding was done before we bought the house, not sure when exactly, but even to a novice the flashing and edge of the roof panels doesn't look correct to me. I do know that the metal roof has been put over asphalt shingles .
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Aug 22, 2022 23:09
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shut up blegum posted:Thanks BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress. If it is out of level you can just shim/fur the problem areas. Using the RC (metal) will help with cracks and can be used for that but it isn't standard to use it if you don't have some prior need. Do you have problems with your ceiling cracking a lot elsewhere in your home?
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Aug 23, 2022 00:53
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heyou posted:Okay, so, water leaks. Noticed the plaster bubbling in a corner, baseboard is damp. House was built in 1922, stone foundation, an addition with a block foundation was put on at some point. I'm seeing signs of water inside mostly at the bottom of the wall near the floor. Today I noticed this outside : Yes, absolutely, along with the gobs of silicone that is applied in fits & starts where the metal roof meets the siding. (water will get in those gaps) I would not be surprised if you noticed the water damage after a particularly heavy rain, with fairly stiff winds. With that kind of shoddy attention to the weatherproofing, I would check every seam and transition point on the exterior.
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Aug 23, 2022 02:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Yes, absolutely, along with the gobs of silicone that is applied in fits & starts where the metal roof meets the siding. (water will get in those gaps) Awesome, any idea what proper flashing would look like in this area? I'm trying to Google examples, but there's a lot out there. The edge along the gutter doesn't look right either to my eye. I'll be going over the whole roof after work today.
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Aug 23, 2022 13:40
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Common sense - and by that I mean: Water flows down. You want to imagine, when inspecting all of these transition areas & seams, water running down the exterior elevations of your home, and you'll see where it'll run into gaps - even tiny, inconsequential gaps*. The exterior weather finishes should shed water all the way to grade or gutters, and any gaps should be visible only when looking skyward - that is, underneath, since water cannot travel uphill - and the siding and soft metals (transition strips on fascias & where the roof meets the siding) should have no gaps that water can enter via gravity or lateral wind action. * My example: when I was installing my woodstove chimney, I inadvertently left a gap between tabs open right at the top-side flashing for the chimney opening - the shingle was deeper than the flashing by less than a half-inch, and for some reason the felt under the shingles was cut short (by me) and I only noticed because water was dropping in alongside the flue pipe & hitting the woodstove during a light rain. I had to get up on the roof & get down close, down & peer at the chimney /shingle border before I finally noticed the tiny gap - less than an inch of exposed sheathing, the width of the gap between tabs. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Aug 23, 2022 |
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Aug 23, 2022 16:15
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Suggestions for ways to put up a small balustrade? 2-storey house, the upstairs has a 4-foot-long half-wall overlooking the staircase, past which is clear air all the way down to the first floor. My cat likes to jump up on there, but as he's gotten older (16 this year!) and more prone to struggling with jumps, I've become worried he's going to overshoot or slip and get hurt. Last night I heard him scrambling to make it up there, so I taped some boxes up to block him, but a more permanent fix wouldn't be amiss. Thoughts so far are: plywood board to block him from jumping up, sanded/stained or painted Actual wood balustrade with railings and posts - expensive and time consuming but would ultimately look best. Posts should be close enough together to make sure it looks hard to jump between. Get creative with pvc to replicate the above. May be hideous.
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Aug 23, 2022 23:03
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I'm redoing the caulking between a walkway and the house's side. Unfortunately, a stretch of the house's underside looks pretty rough. I'm trying to figure out what's going on and what sort of options I have. Here are the pictures:   So is this just plain rotten stucco? This is in Minnesota, so that part, at least for a while, has gotten filled with snow, and plenty of other junk throughout the year. Looks like at some point someone tried to patch it with big chunk of caulking with rocks in it. This is what's in the second picture, there's probably a 3-4' stretch of it. It didn't show up too well, but in the last picture I tried to show that you can see a board of some sort too (sill plate maybe). Anyway, any advice? Definitely leaning toward getting a professional to take a look before doing anything, but I'm open to any suggestions if there are relatively easy repair options.
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Aug 23, 2022 23:59
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 See that little blue pipe? It had a leaky sharkbite coupler that I couldn't reach so I called a plumber. See the stud on the left that is cut cleanly at the bottom and angled at the top? He just made that cut. Is that bad? Is my house going to collapse?
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Aug 25, 2022 01:25
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It's not great. But one stud being cut isn't going to make your house fall down. There's decent odds that wall isn't load-bearing anyway, in which case it matters even less. I'd still want to get it repaired though. If nothing else, the top part of that stud is now supported by a couple of nails through the top plate (which really aren't meant to handle load in that direction), and the drywall screws. That's not really ideal; I could conceive of the weight of the stud causing some issues for the drywall. I admit I'm a bit confused though; normally studs are rotated 90 degrees to what is shown there. I think it's likely that this 2x4 is a nailer, not a stud -- i.e. it was added to the wall in-between studs to give a surface to nail/screw other things to. My concern about it putting load on the drywall still applies though. Can you look to either side of it and see if you can see other 2x4s (or they might be 2x6s) oriented perpendicularly to it?
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Aug 25, 2022 02:38
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Anybody know what would cause an LED bulb to turn on and off at random? It's not rapidly flickering but just turning on and off every 10-20 seconds. Also, what's the deal with LED bulbs? I've rarely had one last more than a few years, nothing close to the "18 years!" on the package. Am I just buying lovely ones?
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Aug 25, 2022 15:24
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Lester Shy posted:Anybody know what would cause an LED bulb to turn on and off at random? It's not rapidly flickering but just turning on and off every 10-20 seconds. The answer is yes to everything. 18 years in a marketing laboratory. Eight asterisks later it's at 3hrs a day, with perfectly conditioned power, with perfect heat removal. Here in reality they know that no one does the warranty claims so they slap whatever they want on the box. And then argue that your fixture caused too much heat build up, you used it more than 3hrs a day, and your electricity sucks. The capacitor is dying. Or a lovely solder joint is heating up, expanding, losing connection, then cooling. My lights died all the drat time until I rewired my house now they last years.
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Aug 25, 2022 15:58
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I have baseboard heating from an oil-fired burner. Mice come up from the crawlspace using the holes in the flooring/baseboards that the copper piping goes through. Can I use steel wool to fill around the pipes, or is that a fire hazard?
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Aug 25, 2022 16:58
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other people posted:Okay more fun at my parents home. All their toilets fill the bowl practically to the brim. I have adjusted the floats as low as they go and things are a bit better but there is still way to much water in the bowl imho. You can always just put a brick (or other non-floating space-filling object) in the tank so that less water is used in the initial flush. This was common back in the 70s-80s when water conservation was gaining traction, but all the toilets were still full-flow 10 GPF.
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Aug 25, 2022 17:32
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Eason the Fifth posted:I have baseboard heating from an oil-fired burner. Mice come up from the crawlspace using the holes in the flooring/baseboards that the copper piping goes through. Can I use steel wool to fill around the pipes, or is that a fire hazard? Steel wool is fine, if there are no better / more permanent solutions out there.
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Aug 25, 2022 23:47
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