|
Is there a reasonable way to figure out what kind of spring came in something originally? I have this vintage Fletcher point driver (No. 2) and it doesn't drive the points quite as deep as I'd like. I'm hoping if I replace the spring that might help. It's got some tension adjustment to it, but if I move it too far the mechanism for the firing of the driver doesn't "slip" properly to drive the hammer. Looks like this, basically: 
Danhenge fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Aug 28, 2022 |
#
?
Aug 28, 2022 22:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:57 |
|
|
Thank you all for the advice, it was very helpful! I ended up getting most of the grout out of there by chipping away at it with a flathead screwdriver and a mallet, then pulling the cover off with a wire threaded through the holes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2022 00:30
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Common sense - and by that I mean: Thanks for the info, wanted to update with what I ended doing. I bought some step flashing and some aluminum backed seal tape and layered the two twice. Ended up removing the small section of gutter, found that there was outer layer of siding behind it. It's old siding shingles, which based on the age of the house I assumed are asbestos, and covered in tape, then step flashing, did not disturb, and put the gutter back. Did not find wetness inside the roof where the hole was, but the wood was water damaged. I also found this article in flashing that was a great demonstration of what correct flashing would look like: https://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/improper-roof-and-side-wall-flashing.html?amp=1
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2022 01:42
|
|
|
humor me, please: my dad wants to install a fence and a few of the posts would run through concrete slab. Ok, no biggie, we'll just rent a concrete saw and cut a section for us to dig the holes/run the digger. no, no ... he wants to drill 2" holes w coring bit to fit aluminum poles that we'll jam through and ??? Maybe secure w epoxy the posts wouldnt be secured and 4" thick concrete would just break the first time you get any torque against the top of the pole, right? I know this is a pie in the sky idea but he's so convinced that it'll work that it has me second guessing myself
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2022 22:40
|
|
|
I want to replace the shower faucet in my tub, but I am woefully under-informed about plumbing. At what point/how much "stuff" do I need to remove before it's in a sort of "blank" position where any brand/model will work (with the caveat I still keep it a one-handle style system)? Like...if I remove the old handle and entire cartridge (Delta 1300/1400 series) will what's left inside the wall be able to accommodate another brand/model? Or is the part soldered into the water lines also brand-specific? Edit: Small addendum...and the "shower pipe" and actual tub faucet that stick out of the shower wall, those just screw into the pipes in the wall (with teflon tape)? So if I buy one in a different finish, those are also easy to replace without having to cut a hole in the closet on the other side of the tub? Second edit: Did more research and yeah, looks like I'll have to stick with compatible Delta models if I don't want to replace the rough-in valve. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Aug 29, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2022 23:27
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:I want to replace the shower faucet in my tub, but I am woefully under-informed about plumbing. Yep, unless you are willing to cut out the old valve and solder in a new one, you're limited to just what the manufacturer makes. You might have decent luck with Delta replacement trims (this is what the handle & related pieces are called) quote:Edit: Small addendum...and the "shower pipe" and actual tub faucet that stick out of the shower wall, those just screw into the pipes in the wall (with teflon tape)? So if I buy one in a different finish, those are also easy to replace without having to cut a hole in the closet on the other side of the tub? The tub faucet either screws in or has a set screw on the bottom. The shower pipe in *theory* screws in, however depending on how long it's been in there, it may not unscrew without damage. I had a fun emergency trip to the hardware store when I was trying to unscrew the shower head and ended up shearing it off in the wall. Luckily I was planning on replacing that wall anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 00:00
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:humor me, please: my dad wants to install a fence and a few of the posts would run through concrete slab. Ok, no biggie, we'll just rent a concrete saw and cut a section for us to dig the holes/run the digger. no, no ... he wants to drill 2" holes w coring bit to fit aluminum poles that we'll jam through and ??? Maybe secure w epoxy
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 00:42
|
|
|
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ELEGRP-1-65-ft-15-Amp-Automatic-Reset-3-Prong-Portable-GFCI-Replacement-Right-Angle-Plug-G1215CA/314631267 Is something like this fine to use as a temporary measure plugged into a power strip for a computer and accessories? We've only got the two prong outlets in most of the upstairs and I'm not comfortable replacing them myself. Edit: Nevermind I just noticed this is a three prong, the manual reset I was looking at is two prong. I don't know how often something like that would trip. Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Aug 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 03:37
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:humor me, please: my dad wants to install a fence and a few of the posts would run through concrete slab. Ok, no biggie, we'll just rent a concrete saw and cut a section for us to dig the holes/run the digger. no, no ... he wants to drill 2" holes w coring bit to fit aluminum poles that we'll jam through and ??? Maybe secure w epoxy Honestly, I'd probably put baseplates on the poles and bolt them down to the concrete with expansion bolts, but I'm no engineer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 19:35
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:humor me, please: my dad wants to install a fence and a few of the posts would run through concrete slab. Ok, no biggie, we'll just rent a concrete saw and cut a section for us to dig the holes/run the digger. no, no ... he wants to drill 2" holes w coring bit to fit aluminum poles that we'll jam through and ??? Maybe secure w epoxy It's fairly common to put up posts by digging a hole and putting concrete in it and either sinking a post into it or attaching it to the top with some concrete anchors and a metal plate of some kind. I imagine the concrete breaking would depend on what kind it is and how it's set up. If it's like a thin wall of concrete above ground then it would definitely be something to worry about, but if it's in the ground or in a slab where it's supported all around then I doubt it would break very easily. We put up a basketball pole next to the driveway about 30 years ago because that's what you did in suburbia in the 90s. We dug down a few feet and mixed concrete and poured it in with the bottom of the post in it. The post itself has had all the paint flake off since then but it's still standing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 20:48
|
|
|
Any strong opinions of wren belt sanders? The $40 corded ones at Home Depot. Basic enthusiast / home grade bull poo poo I’m not opening a carpentry workshop or refinishing a ballroom. I’m resurfacing the top of a workbench so I’ll need to do a decent but not excessive amount of material removal. The old trusty rotary seems like it would be wholly insufficient to the task. Edit: especially since this is going to involve removing an embarrassing amount of epoxy accidents. Alternatively any compelling reason to step up and drop $70 on the corded Ryobi? Edit: just realized there’s a tool thread I’ll go ask there. Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Aug 30, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 22:26
|
|
|
 Well, I did it? The wire I bought (14-19 primary wire) is apparently stranded instead of solid. Some googling said it's fine if you're sure there aren't any stray strands sticking out. I guess at some point I'll redo it with solid wire unless one of you starts yelling at me immediately to take it apart because I'm an idiot. Used a wire nut to twist the two wires that were both on one of the screws in the previous switch, with the stranded wire.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 22:32
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:
You need to strip more insulation. The entire portion of the screw should be bare wire with nothing coming over the sides. Also make sure you tug on the nuts, they should be firmly on there. Next time please buy solid wire.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 22:58
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:It's fairly common to put up posts by digging a hole and putting concrete in it and either sinking a post into it or attaching it to the top with some concrete anchors and a metal plate of some kind. I imagine the concrete breaking would depend on what kind it is and how it's set up. If it's like a thin wall of concrete above ground then it would definitely be something to worry about, but if it's in the ground or in a slab where it's supported all around then I doubt it would break very easily. We put up a basketball pole next to the driveway about 30 years ago because that's what you did in suburbia in the 90s. We dug down a few feet and mixed concrete and poured it in with the bottom of the post in it. The post itself has had all the paint flake off since then but it's still standing. Right, but adding the extra concrete in the bottom is the missing step in his suggested plan. He basically wants to drill a hole *just* big enough to slip aluminum pole through. No matter, I snuck on by when the old codger was out riding his bike and cut the concrete for the fence posts 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:06
|
|
|
The packaging didn't say one way or the other whether it was solid or stranded, are they supposed to and I just bought cheap wire, or did I just buy the wrong wire entirely?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:08
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Honestly, I'd probably put baseplates on the poles and bolt them down to the concrete with expansion bolts, but I'm no engineer. That was my first thought but those are only good up to 4’ and aren’t recommended for fences that aren’t supported at the top. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:09
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:The packaging didn't say one way or the other whether it was solid or stranded, are they supposed to and I just bought cheap wire, or did I just buy the wrong wire entirely? I have never bought electrical wire that didn't say on the packaging that it was solid or stranded. Where did you get yours? Anyway there are applications for stranded wire, this just isn't one. Don't worry, I think you're OK and won't burn down your house, just use solid from now on.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:13
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:The packaging didn't say one way or the other whether it was solid or stranded, are they supposed to and I just bought cheap wire, or did I just buy the wrong wire entirely? Standard building electrical wire clearly says "solid" on it in the product descriptions in my limited experience. Without pictures, I'm leaning toward you bought the wrong type of wire completely.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:15
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:The packaging didn't say one way or the other whether it was solid or stranded, are they supposed to and I just bought cheap wire, or did I just buy the wrong wire entirely? I hadn't heard the term 'primary wire' before and it looks like it is meant for use in automobile wiring. So I'm leaning towards you bought the wrong wire. It might be fine, might not be. This would explain why it wasn't labeled solid/stranded, as wire meant for use in home wiring is typically very well marked as either solid or stranded.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:15
|
|
|
  I'll go back tomorrow and get solid wire, seems like a good idea. Won't be using the light anymore tonight anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:21
|
|
|
Tezer posted:I hadn't heard the term 'primary wire' before and it looks like it is meant for use in automobile wiring. So I'm leaning towards you bought the wrong wire. It might be fine, might not be. This would explain why it wasn't labeled solid/stranded, as wire meant for use in home wiring is typically very well marked as either solid or stranded. https://www.citymill.com/14-19-awg-17-ft-red-stranded-primary-auto-wire I hadn't even thought of it being automotive wire. Admiral Joeslop posted:The packaging didn't say one way or the other whether it was solid or stranded, are they supposed to and I just bought cheap wire, or did I just buy the wrong wire entirely? Google shows lots of hits for that. It is flatly the wrong wire, not rated for this use, and unsafe even properly stripped. Sorry op. Please go guy a spool (25' is fine) of southwire brand romex nm-b 14/2 or 14/3 wire. There are other brands, but it should say "nm-b 14/2" or "nm-b 14/3" clearly on the packaging. You can start cutting pigtails from that. Please don't energize that circuit. E. G. : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-14-3-Solid-Romex-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-63946828/202316553
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:22
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:I'll go back tomorrow and get solid wire, seems like a good idea. Won't be using the light anymore tonight anyway. Yeah, you want something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-14-2-Solid-Romex-Simpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-28827422/202316377
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:23
|
|
|
Romex is great for running line but when I'm just making a quick pigtail inside an outlet or switch box, individual wire is fine. I use this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/50-ft-14-Gauge-Black-Solid-Copper-THHN-Wire-112-1401BR/202749055 I have white, black, and red, and then I have unsheathed copper, all in both 14 and 12 gauge. It's cheaper per foot vs. the sheathed romex. Of course if you will ever actually need Romex, you can just buy that as a single purchase and strip a bit when you need single wires, as others suggested.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:26
|
|
|
Thanks for the help all, I'll probably stick with the one Leperflesh suggested as I don't intend to do much more than light switch replacements and GFCI outlets. Preferably someday we'll just rewire the place ($$$$) or just have an actual electrician give everything a once over. I bought an outlet tester and every single three prong in the house except the ones in the laundry room/water heater aren't actually grounded 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:33
|
|
|
OK. Just keep in mind that you always match the gauge. A 20-amp circuit may be wired with 12-gauge, and you do not use 14 gauge wire (which is thinner) in that outlet or for that switch. But you also do not put 12 gauge on the end of a circuit that's been run in 14. You can also get a pack with all the colors, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Industries-14SLDTHHNKIT25-Diameter-Building/dp/B01GUBTECW I think I got something like this at lowes or ACE maybe, like 10 years ago.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:38
|
|
|
Do the colors matter at all? And is there an easy way to tell the gauge? I have a wire stripper so I guess just use that? On a related note I just finished installing a GFCI outlet that loads to at least one other outlet and it seems to work just fine. Checked with the outlet tester and an air pump. That was a lot easier than the light switch.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2022 23:48
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:But you also do not put 12 gauge on the end of a circuit that's been run in 14. What's the reason for this? Just to avoid confusing people who modify the circuit later?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 00:08
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:Do the colors matter at all? And is there an easy way to tell the gauge? I have a wire stripper so I guess just use that? The colors do matter, in that they help future people correctly identify hot, neutral, ground, and (where applicable) carrier wires. Code also requires the colors to match, but there are exceptions, such as when combining switches for a fixture (like when two light switches both control the same light). TooMuchAbstraction posted:What's the reason for this? Just to avoid confusing people who modify the circuit later? That is one good reason, yes. The presence of 12 gauge wire in a junction box could make some future person believe this is a 20A circuit, and then overload the circuit as a result. The legal answer is that mixing wire gauge anywhere on a circuit is prohibited by the National Electric Code. I don't know what all the reasons are - it's often described as "a fire hazard" and maybe there are fancy electric physics reasons. note that it is fine to run entirely 12 gauge for a 15a circuit, you just don't mix gauges also note that if you google, you'll find Q&A sites all over the place with the incorrect answer to this question, because homeowners and handymen do this all the loving time, and this is also a very good reason not to assume anything about old work: test the outlet with a tester to see if hot and neutral are reversed, for example, and check the actual circuit breaker for a given circuit to see what amperage it supports, do not rely on the gauge of the wire you find. e. For measuring the gauge of existing wire: a lot of wire strippers have a little gauge pattern you can use, it's for stripping but basically OK to measure with. You can also get a little pocket reference card, which is better: https://www.amazon.com/ZeeDix-Stainless-Thickness-Measures-Standard/dp/B07YRRST2G/ Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Aug 31, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 00:18
|
|
|
Thanks for the answer! "It's the code" kind of stops any "but why though" discussion in its tracks, but your thoughts make sense to me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 00:37
|
|
|
I have opened an outlet and found a "white" wire that turned out to actually be a black wire that had paint overspray on it from some point when someone had spray painted the walls and had removed the plate covers while doing so. I have also opened an outlet and found a "black" wire that turned out to actually be a white wire with scorch marks. Annnd, I have opened an outlet and found just a mess of red wire. Just all the wires the same color red. Cool, thanks previous owner, for only owning red wire. Great.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 00:48
|
|
|
Small question while I'm doing some reading. I installed the GFCI I mentioned earlier on the "first" outlet in a bedroom. It has both line and load in it so it should also protect the other two outlets in the room, correct? I can safely replace the other two two prong outlets with three prongs and they'll be covered by the GFCI?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 02:37
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:Small question while I'm doing some reading. I don't like the quotes around first. Are you saying that you are 100% positive that the other outlets you are talking about are downstream of this outlet? If so, and if they are on the load terminals of the GFCI they can be replaced with 3 prong outlets that are labeled with "No Equipment Ground" stickers which should have come with your GFCI outlet.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 02:41
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I don't like the quotes around first. Are you saying that you are 100% positive that the other outlets you are talking about are downstream of this outlet? If so, and if they are on the load terminals of the GFCI they can be replaced with 3 prong outlets that are labeled with "No Equipment Ground" stickers which should have come with your GFCI outlet. I checked the second one in line and it only had one white and one black wire, I'll check the third outlet next time I'm there. My assumption is that the outlet that has two white and two black wires (the line and load, I learned today) is the one that feeds power to the other two receptacles.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 02:45
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:I checked the second one in line and it only had one white and one black wire, I'll check the third outlet next time I'm there. My assumption is that the outlet that has two white and two black wires (the line and load, I learned today) is the one that feeds power to the other two receptacles. This is not a good enough way to do that. If you hit the test button anything plugged into the GFCI should have no power as well as any downstream outlets. So try that. If the other outlets still have power and/or don't come back on when you hit the reset button then they are not wired as part of this GFCI/not wired properly so my initial advice does not apply.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 02:49
|
|
|
Motronic posted:This is not a good enough way to do that. Y'know, that makes a lot more sense as a test, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 02:50
|
|
|
I've got an old patio set (Hampton Bay) that I got at the depot about 10+ years ago. My tubby rear end broke one of the slings. It's structurally perfect, but the sun has done a number on it over the years. I was looking at getting new slings for the chairs, and while I'm at it, having it powdercoated. I got a price of $2,000. $250 for each chair, $450 for the table. Powder coated and new slings from one provider. I also found a place that will sell the slings alone, but it's an online place that you send them measurements and they mail you the new slings. Those ones are $63 each. https://buychairslings.com/product/chair-swivel-2-piece-sling-hampton-bay/ I'm waiting on a price from another powder coating place that won't do the slings, but I'm figuring they won't be far off. I have considered getting the new slings and just spray painting the chairs, but I don't know if that will look lovely. So I guess the question is "Is it worth getting this old patio set re-done?". I'm not seeing much that I like from any of the big box stores for cheaper than the powder coating, and I don't want to end up junking the current set. On the other hand I'm reluctant to pay (probably more than) what I paid for the new patio set just to have it refurbished. The smaller patio places have furniture I like but holy poo poo they are expensive. I like the current set, it's comfortable and exactly what I need for that space, but I don't want to waste money. I’m also not keen on tossing a perfectly usable patio set just because it doesn’t look as nice as it did 10 years ago. Thoughts? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Aug 31, 2022 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 17:01
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 17:39
|
|
|
Thanks, home improvement stuff is a nightmare for my brain since I only really learn by doing lol
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 17:57
|
|
|
Is it safe to use stranded wire for ground? This discussion made me check and I may have made the same mistake a few months ago.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 17:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:57 |
|
|
haveblue posted:Is it safe to use stranded wire for ground? This discussion made me check and I may have made the same mistake a few months ago. My initial Googling was about 50/50 on that so probably worth replacing it. I just finished redoing mine and I managed not to screw it up again so far!
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2022 20:02
|
|