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I hate this stupid filament, and I hate this stupid extruder, and I hate this stupid $7 webcam, and I hate this stupid hobby. One day, somebody* is going to come out with a 3D printer that has filament modules that are triple price and have some sort of electronics to identify the thermal properties and also prevent you using anybody else's filament. It'll have some sort of quick-swap nozzle, and cost $800, and require you to use some garbage Windows-only software, and they'll sell it at Jo-Ann Fabric. And I'm gonna be like, yeah, that's probably what needed to happen. * by "somebody" I mean Cricut.
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Aug 31, 2022 19:23
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slurm posted:Doesn't injection molding encourage this inherently? Draft angles etc. The real pain isn't that the right angle is 88 degrees instead of exactly 90 (injection molding draft is like 1 or 2 degrees, depending) -- it's poo poo like trying to CAD up a thing to fit the contour of a car dashboard, or whatever. That's where 3d scanning can come in handy (sort of, it also has its own issues.)
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Aug 31, 2022 19:24
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A contour gauge and calipers, there's your scanner
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Aug 31, 2022 19:31
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cruft posted:One day, somebody* is going to come out with a 3D printer that has filament modules that are triple price and have some sort of electronics to identify the thermal properties and also prevent you using anybody else's filament. It'll have some sort of quick-swap nozzle, and cost $800, and require you to use some garbage Windows-only software, and they'll sell it at Jo-Ann Fabric. This was the DaVinci brand printers. They had filament cartridges that you had to use, had hot end cartridges that you couldn't change the nozzles on, and required you to use their own proprietary software to send prints to the printer. Their newer firmware removed the proprietary filament cartridge requirement, I replaced the hot end with a E3Dv6 knockoff, but I'm still stuck using the proprietary Windows-only software to send prints to the printer unless I put a RAMPs board in it which I am not gonna do. edit: Forgot to mention that their software didn't let you send GCode to the printer at first so you couldn't use any other slicer than the Davinci software. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 19:55
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cruft posted:And I'm gonna be like, yeah, that's probably what needed to happen. Some of them are starting to do neat stuff in this space. The Bambu X1 which was kickstarted earlier this year and has been arriving to backers now has LIDAR which it uses for calibration, and also to scan/verify the first layer for issues before continuing the print. It's kinda neat. Can do flow-calibration tests and the like as well because the lidar opens up a lot of opportunities for the printer to notice and check issues. The main thing I've heard against it is that the multi-filament solution it has is hilariously wasteful, but I imagine more issue will crop up now that base units are out, and not just the hyper-tuned ones sent out to reviewers and the like. e: Also some software issues and the like since it's a brand new thing. SubNat fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 19:56
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cruft posted:I hate this stupid filament, and I hate this stupid extruder, and I hate this stupid $7 webcam, and I hate this stupid hobby. This is pretty much MakerBot, Markforged, and most commercial print companies. The only way to cut down on enough variables to make additive work well enough to actually save on labor is to have a pretty tightly closed ecosystem.
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Aug 31, 2022 20:18
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cruft posted:I hate this stupid filament, and I hate this stupid extruder, and I hate this stupid $7 webcam, and I hate this stupid hobby. The cube by 3d systems had chipped filament, and the nozzle was integrated into the spool, so replacing the spool replaced the nozzle. It still jammed like mad as the Bowden design used a very thin wall tube, and uncommonly brittle filament.
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Aug 31, 2022 20:34
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cruft posted:I hate this stupid filament, and I hate this stupid extruder, and I hate this stupid $7 webcam, and I hate this stupid hobby. Prusa plus Prusament is pretty close to this while still being open. It's just that Prusament is pretty thin on the ground in the US because of the shipping.
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Aug 31, 2022 20:57
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SubNat posted:The main thing I've heard against it is that the multi-filament solution it has is hilariously wasteful, but I imagine more issue will crop up now that base units are out, and not just the hyper-tuned ones sent out to reviewers and the like. Any multifilament solution that isn't a tool changer is going to be hilariously wasteful, it's just the nature of those things.
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Aug 31, 2022 21:02
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Yeah I was gonna say, I haven't checked recently but prusament has a unique barcode that will tell you exactly how thick each inch of the filament on the roll is, give you mfg date/time etc etc Prusa acquired some company in the US with a big warehouse/distribution center to improve shipments in the US, supposedly
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Aug 31, 2022 21:03
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Hadlock posted:Yeah I was gonna say, I haven't checked recently but prusament has a unique barcode that will tell you exactly how thick each inch of the filament on the roll is, give you mfg date/time etc etc The Prusa filament is good stuff, but honestly so is 99%of the stuff I've bought lately I've been doing filaments.ca lately and all their pla/petg has ripped
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Aug 31, 2022 22:13
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w00tmonger posted:I've been doing filaments.ca lately and all their pla/petg has ripped Really -- did you dry it? I'm getting an abnormal amount of stringing from their house brand PETG and not sure what's causing it e: you just posted about blobbing lol mewse fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Aug 31, 2022 |
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Aug 31, 2022 22:19
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mewse posted:Really -- did you dry it? I'm getting an abnormal amount of stringing from their house brand PETG and not sure what's causing it The blobbing is pla and specifically my 1 big rear end printer lol. Its fine on my other 3. I'm really rolling my own settings from scratch, so I'm thinking it's probably some overextrusion and increasing retraction or something. I've never worked with a high flow volcano before
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Aug 31, 2022 23:11
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I managed to get this Amazon Basics PLA to stick to the plate long enough to print all 10 layers of one 22mm piece. So with the "print one thing at a time" setting, I can do 10 tokens per print! I need 72 each in all 8 colors 
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Aug 31, 2022 23:15
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Alright, picture time. I got a small room I can use for 3D printed stuff. The goal is to just invite people interested in the topic because I really like talking about it. As I want to keep 3D printing fun, money isn't the main object here. Not gonna deny people giving me money for stuff, but I don't want it to become work. Eww. Maybe I can finance a roll or two of new filament over time. Today I had my first visitors, the neighbors of a friend with their 2 kids. I told my friend to warn the parents(!) that the kids will want a printer and within an hour they asked 3 times already  I gave a short overview about the printing process and we started a small pokemon that had a print time of ~40 minutes. (0.6 nozzle atm) The Kids were playing around with basically everything I had set up there and I was able to surprise the parents with all the stuff a printer is able to do, which is always fun.They left after ~1.5 hours, the kids both took a pokemon (printed one in advance when I knew there would be 2 kids), a small flexi-rex and a small jet-plane with them, the parents 3 shopping-cart highjackers and I got to talk about 3D printing. Good times. Now I'm confident enough to post about it in my local area and I hope for more fun visits      No one goes home empty-handed! 
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Sep 1, 2022 00:15
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RabbitWizard posted:No one goes home empty-handed! You -- and I say this as a parent -- monster.
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Sep 1, 2022 00:27
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RabbitWizard posted:Alright, picture time. I got a small room I can use for 3D printed stuff. The goal is to just invite people interested in the topic because I really like talking about it. As I want to keep 3D printing fun, money isn't the main object here. Not gonna deny people giving me money for stuff, but I don't want it to become work. Eww. Maybe I can finance a roll or two of new filament over time. That's awesome! When I did a school presentation for an elementary school (well one room in their science fair where they invited parents and friends of faculty to setup a room) I printed out a lot of little things that were fun for hands-on and a few big ones. I think the most popular was baby groot in wood fill PLA but it was also just after Guardians of the Galaxy 2 came out. I also upscaled one of those gear cubes and made two other ones in the normal smaller size: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10483 I made a bunch of different stuff like a few miniatures, vases, lithophanes, one of the prosthetic hands that opens and closes the fingers (e-nable IIRC), etc. The OpenRC F1 car was popular but I didn't (and still don't) have any electronics in it due to  but I'll get around to it some day.
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Sep 1, 2022 01:52
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cruft posted:I managed to get this Amazon Basics PLA to stick to the plate long enough to print all 10 layers of one 22mm piece. So with the "print one thing at a time" setting, I can do 10 tokens per print! To be honest, this just seems like a bad use case for 3D printing. Like you said earlier, you could have just bought clay chips and been done with it. They’ll have a better feel and sound than 3D printed chips to boot, I suspect. 🤷🏻♂️ What you’re going through sounds like the 3D printing equivalent of having your balls stepped on by someone in high heels.
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Sep 1, 2022 09:59
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Here4DaGangBang posted:To be honest, this just seems like a bad use case for 3D printing. Like you said earlier, you could have just bought clay chips and been done with it. They’ll have a better feel and sound than 3D printed chips to boot, I suspect. 🤷🏻♂️ Thread title: 3D printing: equivalent of having your balls stepped on
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Sep 1, 2022 11:22
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This is the fun you are experiencing.
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Sep 1, 2022 12:24
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CarForumPoster posted:Thread title:
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Sep 1, 2022 13:06
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CarForumPoster posted:Thread title: thread titles are supposed to be funny, not completely accurate. On the topic of Prusament, I have found 3dFuel PLA+ filament to be on par with it, and it's a US company, so shipping isn't asinine. Anyone else try it? The PLA non-plus isn't special in my experience. They also have a cheaper (  ) roll of leftover filament scraps re-processed into a spool. They claim it's the same tolerances and quality as a regular spool, just with random colors. Can't wait to try it. If it's true, it will be the cheapest quality filament I've so far found.
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Sep 1, 2022 14:02
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I will say that the Prusament really pays off on stuff like PC Blend. I chuckle every time I pull a polycarbonate part off my $350 printer because that’s dumb and great.
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Sep 1, 2022 14:08
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Finally getting around to building an enclosure for my Ender 3 to print ABS (and try to not think about building a Voron yet), how tight does it need to be for fumes and insulation? I've been toying with the design during down time at work and that is prime condition to over design something. "What if I used double paned acrylic with weather stripping? I should make a shelf for a filament dryer when I get one some day. I should keep the Raspberry Pi on the outside of the chamber because it's only passively cooled. Maybe a small PTFE tube in the walls to feed the filament in."
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Sep 1, 2022 14:51
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Serenade posted:Finally getting around to building an enclosure for my Ender 3 to print ABS (and try to not think about building a Voron yet), how tight does it need to be for fumes and insulation? Just build a Voron
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Sep 1, 2022 15:23
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Serenade posted:Finally getting around to building an enclosure for my Ender 3 to print ABS (and try to not think about building a Voron yet), how tight does it need to be for fumes and insulation? I don't mean this as a jab or anything, but why ABS? Why not skip the enclosure and just use ASA or PETG instead?
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Sep 1, 2022 16:29
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Serenade posted:Finally getting around to building an enclosure for my Ender 3 to print ABS (and try to not think about building a Voron yet), how tight does it need to be for fumes and insulation? The smaller the enclosure, the better. Even a small difference in total dimensions makes a huge difference in insulated are. It.. doesn't need to be "insulated" really. Just.. sealed. When I printed my Voron (just build a voron) two sides of my enclosure were just a trash bag. 3 mil plastic. That's it. The front door was clear plastic from a quilt bag from the department store. I vaugely taped it down. I didn't do anything for fumes. I should have. Make your first prints a nevermore filter, and that covers your fumes problem, entirely. I have a nevermore for my V0. Seriously though if you're going here, do the $10 enclosure now, so you can print the parts for you $1000 printer. That $1000 printer will include a proper enclosure.
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Sep 1, 2022 16:34
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And with that $1,000 printer you can print the parts for a $10,000 printer. After that, the world! It's brilliant muhahahahaha!
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Sep 1, 2022 16:40
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bird food bathtub posted:And with that $1,000 printer you can print the parts for a $10,000 printer. After that, the world! It's brilliant muhahahahaha! If you keep at it, eventually you can print a boat! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt2epukih2k
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Sep 1, 2022 16:52
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mattfl posted:Just build a Voron It is inevitable, but it's also a lower priority than stuff like: getting more than one good outlet in my 3d printer room, proper tables, storage, and a bunch of mundane improvements before finding the space for a second printer (third if you include resin). The Voron seed has been planted. Dr. Fishopolis posted:I don't mean this as a jab or anything, but why ABS? Why not skip the enclosure and just use ASA or PETG instead? I do use PETG for some things, but want ABS for its rigidity and how it responds to acetone. It's my understanding that some printer parts are not well served by PETG? Like the firsr after market fan shroud I printed was PETG and it sagged way way faster than the same shroud in PLA. Also I often forget about ASA. Does ASA not require an enclosure? Nerobro posted:The smaller the enclosure, the better. Even a small difference in total dimensions makes a huge difference in insulated are. Hm this is good to know and a very good point at the end. I was assuming it needed full on insulation, like a window to a house level. Can reach a level of "good enough" until getting a designated better printer that justifies it's enclosure. I have become more convinced now to build a Voron than I was since my last post.
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Sep 1, 2022 17:38
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Serenade posted:I do use PETG for some things, but want ABS for its rigidity and how it responds to acetone. It's my understanding that some printer parts are not well served by PETG? Like the firsr after market fan shroud I printed was PETG and it sagged way way faster than the same shroud in PLA. PETG should absolutely not be deforming before PLA does. It's much more heat resistant than PLA, but not as much as ABS or ASA. Dunno why that would happen. ASA does need a draft shield, but it's not nearly as warpy as ABS and doesn't really require a sealed enclosure.
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Sep 1, 2022 17:48
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Will the Prusament CF PC blend work for Voron Parts I wonder? Edit: I also wonder if a CF ASA wouldn't be easier to print without warping.
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Sep 1, 2022 18:09
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CarForumPoster posted:Thread title: Sure seems to be going that way. Had tried to print a larger bed-calibration thing the other night, and aborted because the nozzle ended up scraping in the lower-right corner area. Wee. Went to try and figure that out the next day, and the printer decided it liked that z-height - even after re-ABL and adjusting z during that process - and ground some more just trying to do a 3x3 in the middle of the bed.  More ABL, manual z-fuckery, shutting everything down and verifying the x-axis crossbar was level (CD case method best done with three or more hands - also, gently caress eccentric nuts), re-level, and got it back to the original quality 3x3, with "too close" in one corner and "too high" diagonally. "Close enough to check for scraping", says I, and I move the 3x3 to that troublesome corner before slicing, to test. No scraping!  Giant loving bubbling aligned along the print path.  :mutter: :gripe: Shoot a center test again. Bubblicious.  More loving around. Scrub the hell out of the bed with alcohol, which cleared that bullshit up. Fiddled settings some more, re-leveled, set nozzle and bed temps to the exact values listed on the spool (IIIDMax PLA+), set z to .22 just to make sure I wasn't going to scrape, set print speed to 50%... Dear god, that looks nice. No bubbles, no visibly-differing layer height as it printed, maybe I have it figured out! (For the middle of the bed, anyway.) And then I pull it off the bed. Print starts in the lower-left corner, and is really consistent. For about the first 15-20%, it looks to be low - not horribly, but enough that I don't like it. The entire rest is that barely-connected-with-spots high, but it *is* laser-straight and adheres to be bed well. (Until you start scraping it up and the gaps open up and break what connectiosn there are, anyway.) Fiddle z-offset, go back to 75% speed, try again... Same result. Fiddle z 100% speed go... Same result. Identical, or nearly so. Start a new print, let it run a bit, adjust z-offset on the fly. Adjust it four times across the print, in fact, giving it 7-10 passes before the next adjustment. GET REKT CARBON UNIT. Quit and give serious thought to using the alcohol myself rather than on the print bed. Never did get around to checking that lower-right corner again, either. Oh, and the best part? The touchscreen went black on me a couple times during all this. Second time, it woke up again after the print was completed, but gently caress gently caress gently caress anyway.
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Sep 1, 2022 18:16
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slurm posted:Will the Prusament CF PC blend work for Voron Parts I wonder? I think Thomas Sandladerer looked into CF Nylon, but nylon sagged from heat creep much earlier than ABS - could go either way for PC, but is much more rigid than nylon.
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Sep 1, 2022 18:19
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Ygolonac posted:Sure seems to be going that way. Hey, your images aren't showing up but if you edit this please thumbnail them this time to keep the thread readable!
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Sep 1, 2022 18:31
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So, when you're printing a diagonal bit that goes outwards with each layer, and it bends/curls up a bit, does that count as warping, or does it have a different term? Currently a bit stuck on printing a part, because it has 2 small islands that get printed separately from the main part, but join up after 2 cm or so. Or they would, if not for the fact that the edges on them can curl up a tiny bit, get nudged by the nozzle, and one invariably pops off. (Currently re-printing with a brim, but it's really obnoxious that I can't just generate a brim for that one specific location.)  Slowly working my way through the Master Sword print, but a bunch of these pieces are pretty fiddly. Like those two small islands. I'm just trying to brute force them surviving on the plate long enough to join up by using brims, but otherwise I'm not sure how I would counter the warping itself, if that's what it is. I might just redesign a bunch of these pieces to be simplified and adhesive-fits, because some of these parts are annoying to deal with.
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Sep 1, 2022 19:09
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Ygolonac posted:Sure seems to be going that way. TL;DR: Don't drive yourself crazy. You're still working with shovels and plowshares. If that first layer sticks, you're doing just fine. What are you trying to get done? And.. is software the answer you really looking for. The sort of precision you're going for, may just be a thing you'll never actually ~get to~ with the materials stack found on typical bedslingers. 0.2mm is eight thousandths of an inch and that's a pretty good variation tolerance for 2mm sheet aluminum. If I can keep a (not cast aluminum) plate within 1 layer height across the bed, I'm pretty happy. As long as I ~can get a~ first layer it hits my checkmark, and I move on. Though.. I retied it... I did buy a mic 6 plate to put on my ender, but it never actually got installed. When I was still running a buildtack magnet, creases from previous prints would show up clearly in my first layer. As would where the plate wore over multiple prints. Of course Mic6 is expensive. Maybe a sheet of glass would do you? if that's the end that matters most to you?
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Sep 1, 2022 19:14
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NewFatMike posted:I think Thomas Sandladerer looked into CF Nylon, but nylon sagged from heat creep much earlier than ABS - could go either way for PC, but is much more rigid than nylon. It was Stefan from CNCKitchen that printed his voron v0 parts in cf/nylon and they all sagged - seemed like a really irritating lesson to discover "just use ABS"
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Sep 1, 2022 19:23
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VSu_gG-nlk Amusingly, neither Stefan or Thomas have actually "completed" their vorons. Well, I'm assuming for Stefan, but we've not seen followup on that yet. Thomas built his 2.4, but never got it enclosed, and due to the Klipper community souring him.. he never got to play with all the fun software.
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Sep 1, 2022 19:27
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SubNat posted:(Currently re-printing with a brim, but it's really obnoxious that I can't just generate a brim for that one specific location.) Add a shape as a separate object. Rightclick it -> "Add Settings" -> "Skirt Brim" -> Check "Brim width" Now insert a Brim width in the new modifier. Make the object very flat (first layer height) and move it next to the parts you want to support. It won't be a perfect brim, but it may work.
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Sep 1, 2022 19:32
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