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Slugworth posted:[Throws out his hastily thrown together outline for a Top Gun 3 script] "drat it Maverick I'll have you court martialed if you don't land that 737 this instant!" "Sorry captain my 200 member team needs me." Immolat1on fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Sep 1, 2022 |
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Sep 1, 2022 02:31
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Goose ejects from pullback tug directly into underside of 737.
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Sep 1, 2022 03:01
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Nerobro posted:We can do the math on this, but I think this is the wrong thread for it. That said, a nearly empty 767 or 757 can do some freaky rate of climb. Aeronautical Insanity: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3276654
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Sep 1, 2022 05:30
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tidal wave emulator posted:ship things Good stuff. I've got the Tamiya Saratoga and the newer Hasegawa Akagi, and I figured I'd build those mostly out of the box. If PE or a wooden deck would make a huge difference, though, I could be convinced to switch up. I've also got some of the Suyata space navy kits, and those may be my first testers so I can screw up without doing permanent damage to something I care about. I did know about Flyhawk, but funnily enough it was from their tanks. They make a little 1/72 Renault FT kit that is cheap as dirt and staggeringly sharply pressed - it's like holding a 3D rendering in your hands, it's absolutely wild to look at. I'm hoping they roll out a couple of US ships at some point, so I don't have an excuse not to pick one up. Aside from things like soot from the stacks and rust streaking along openings in the hull, is there a lot to weathering ships? I figure at 1:700, you're not really seeing much detail where that'd be a factor.
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Sep 1, 2022 07:01
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grassy gnoll posted:Good stuff. I've got the Tamiya Saratoga and the newer Hasegawa Akagi, and I figured I'd build those mostly out of the box. If PE or a wooden deck would make a huge difference, though, I could be convinced to switch up. I've also got some of the Suyata space navy kits, and those may be my first testers so I can screw up without doing permanent damage to something I care about. I got that Renault kit, and their new 1/72 SBD Dauntless (their first plane kit) recently and they're both incredible looking. Other than what you mention, salt staining is probably still worth looking at doing in 1/700 to fade things a bit, along the hull in the direction waves will break against it. Aircraft carrier decks will get sun-bleached over time, and either the deck paint will get worn off by aircraft landing (e.g. US carriers with wooden decks painted deck blue) or tyremarks will start building up. One thing I like to do is airbrush a v v v thinned mix of the base deck colour over the top of the deck markings/decals to give them a slightly faded look. I quite enjoy using AK's weathering pencils for doing rust streaks, salt stains etc as they give you a lot of control and can easily be cleaned off if necessary.
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Sep 1, 2022 09:23
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tidal wave emulator posted:For colour references, Sovereign Hobbies have some very well researched (possibly the best) information on a lot of Royal Navy and US Navy ship colour schemes (also Italian and German). They point to their own range of enamel paints but those are matched to the named paints used during the war so you can go off and find equivalents. If you don't like enamels, Lifecolour do a good range of ship colours in acrylic too. Having watched the owner of sovereign hobbies in action on a different forum I don’t dislike his product per se but I do really hate the way he tends to brow beat people until they adopt his colour scheme and therefore paints for whatever particular ship they are building. For me modeling is more about pleasure and if I can find a paint color that matches the car I’m building and it’s available in Australia I’ll buy it. If I can’t then I’ll go with the next best option. Britmodller is great for tips and tricks but I find it an intimidating place to post my work cause you are never sure if you’ll be set upon by some old bloke who insists that all models need to be hyper realistic versions of a time and place rendered in scale.
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Sep 1, 2022 12:18
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Having watched the owner of sovereign hobbies in action on a different forum I don’t dislike his product per se but I do really hate the way he tends to brow beat people until they adopt his colour scheme and therefore paints for whatever particular ship they are building. For me modeling is more about pleasure and if I can find a paint color that matches the car I’m building and it’s available in Australia I’ll buy it. If I can’t then I’ll go with the next best option. Yeah for sure, Jamie has a certain "direct" way about him and you always see him pop up on forums to tell people they're actually wrong (disclosure: I've met him a few times, and he used to be a member of my model club before I joined, he's a lot nicer irl!) but I think it's mostly because for him the historical research on colours, visiting the national archives and digging up original royal navy documents, doing spectrum analysis of paint samples etc is his actual interest, which leads him to do a lot of legwork to dispel myths - and the paint line is almost a by-product of that. He only ended up with them because the chap who started Colourcoats paints decided to close his business White Ensign, and in order to prevent the line of paints disappearing completely from the modelling community Jamie bought over the range. I believe he does some work with Flyhawk to provide them with their colour schemes. Sadly a lot of the ship modelling aftermarket industry is one-man-bands that are in danger of disappearing entirely when the owner decides to retire. quote:Britmodller is great for tips and tricks but I find it an intimidating place to post my work cause you are never sure if you’ll be set upon by some old bloke who insists that all models need to be hyper realistic versions of a time and place rendered in scale. Yeah I'm just a lurker there, it's very much a grumpy old white british guy hangout spot. A lot of modelling facebook groups are no better, and in fact often much more poorly moderated. tidal wave emulator fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Sep 1, 2022 |
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Sep 1, 2022 13:41
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On one of the facebook modeling groups, someone mentioned that the guy who makes the Rosie the Riveter tools died and the tools are no longer in production. They mentioned that something from a sewing store could be used as a suitable substitute, but I don't remember what it was. It had a name I'd never heard before - not a perforating tool. Any ideas?
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Sep 1, 2022 14:56
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SkunkDuster posted:On one of the facebook modeling groups, someone mentioned that the guy who makes the Rosie the Riveter tools died and the tools are no longer in production. They mentioned that something from a sewing store could be used as a suitable substitute, but I don't remember what it was. It had a name I'd never heard before - not a perforating tool. Any ideas? Sounds like a leather punch or leather marking tool, but those are probably too large. Rotary fabric tools might also be something similar. I will look into it. Edit: Looks like "Fabric Scoring Tool" is bringing up some close items, but the term you might be looking for is "Stitch Marking Tool". https://www.amazon.com/LUNARM-Traci...257309175&psc=1 IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Sep 1, 2022 |
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Sep 1, 2022 15:56
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Trumpeter makes a rivet marking tool that's decent. I cut down the plastic guard on mine so I could see the wheel on the surface better
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Sep 1, 2022 16:58
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Arquinsiel posted:For those of us who can't do the maths, what's the turning radius of the F15? Laden or unladen?
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Sep 1, 2022 19:44
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I'm planning on making a card-board box paint hood type deal, do y'all think something like this would move enough air? https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inch...8-1-spons&psc=1 I'll be using a respirator as well, the fan will be ducted out a window.
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Sep 1, 2022 19:48
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MrUnderbridge posted:Laden or unladen?
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Sep 1, 2022 21:01
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tidal wave emulator posted:I got that Renault kit, and their new 1/72 SBD Dauntless (their first plane kit) recently and they're both incredible looking. Awesome, thanks. I wouldn't have thought about the tire marks, but that's so obvious in retrospect. One day I'll get off my butt and finally build some of this crap, now that I'm settled back down.
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Sep 1, 2022 21:16
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Immolat1on posted:I'm planning on making a card-board box paint hood type deal, do y'all think something like this would move enough air? Should be more than enough power. Just make sire you have some kind of filtering between it and the booth so it doesnt gunk up.
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Sep 1, 2022 21:32
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Arquinsiel posted:Unladen, obviously, or else it'd just have fired an AAM at the 737 and not be trying to lay on guns. Just to be clear, is this an African or European F15?
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Sep 2, 2022 15:10
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Vorenus posted:Just to be clear, is this an African or European F15?
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Sep 2, 2022 17:21
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Vorenus posted:Just to be clear, is this an African or European F15? I don't think any European countries fly the F15. I think it's only the US, Israel, and Saudi Arabia and maybe some other Middle Eastern countries. I'm fun at parties.
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Sep 3, 2022 05:00
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I figured I'd post some pics of the 99% complete Miura. There's just one more piece of photo etch that has to go on each side and I'm absolutely terrified of doing it because it goes over the metal slats on the door and they are FRAGILE. It looks pretty good in it's current state so I figured I'd show it off before I totally ruin it.                
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Sep 3, 2022 05:09
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Charliegrs posted:I don't think any European countries fly the F15. I think it's only the US, Israel, and Saudi Arabia and maybe some other Middle Eastern countries. I'm fun at parties. Japan https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-02419-f-15j-eagle-204sq-naha-air-base-40th-anniversary--1438995 Anyone know if the 1988 era hasegawa kit this is based on is any good? edit: 2400 yen? Yeah, that's raised panel line territory.
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Sep 3, 2022 05:40
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Oh look, new cover art from Trumpeter, https://twitter.com/iAmTheWarax/status/1565737184191287298?s=20&t=qZINK4EBeFOpF7YiT_s2EQ
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Sep 3, 2022 05:47
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Charliegrs posted:I don't think any European countries fly the F15. I think it's only the US, Israel, and Saudi Arabia and maybe some other Middle Eastern countries. I'm fun at parties. https://youtu.be/uio1J2PKzLI
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Sep 3, 2022 06:29
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Jonny Nox posted:Japan I think that may actually just be when they started doing recessed panel lines - I've built their late 80s Jaguar, and have their F-111 and Phantom from the same era and they're all recessed. Regardless, you'd be better off with the much more recent Great Wall Hobby kit https://www.scalemates.com/kits/great-wall-hobby-l7204-f-15j-eagle-jasdf--1167990
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Sep 3, 2022 10:58
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Charliegrs posted:I figured I'd post some pics of the 99% complete Miura. There's just one more piece of photo etch that has to go on each side and I'm absolutely terrified of doing it because it goes over the metal slats on the door and they are FRAGILE. It looks pretty good in it's current state so I figured I'd show it off before I totally ruin it. Nicely done. Good luck with those pesky last bits.
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Sep 3, 2022 12:35
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I've said it before but I'm constantly in awe at anyone who can get gloss finishes like that. I end up hiding all my sins under a matte coat. Fantastic work!
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Sep 3, 2022 14:19
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I'm totally not a car guy, but that is absolutely awesome. Fantastic work!
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Sep 3, 2022 18:02
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Decided to get my start on ship-like things by working on Suyata's I-400 kit, which is a spaceship version of those weird IJN aircraft carrier subs. Not a terrible kit, though the instructions could use a little work. However, this tiny 1/700 spaceplane probably shouldn't be a four-part kit.
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Sep 3, 2022 21:51
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grassy gnoll posted:probably shouldn't be a four-part kit. You’re right, it should be a whole pe fret with 0 plastic parts
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Sep 4, 2022 23:13
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Been a while since I've worked on a kit. Moved to a new apartment and havent fully figured out how im gonna paint in here, oh well. Took a shot at partially priming a car kit yesterday:  So far two of my surfacer bottles have dried out lol.
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Sep 5, 2022 03:43
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Don't know what I'm doing with weathering this ship-slash-spaceship. Slap more rust effects on there? Chipping? Big stupid scratch on the hull? 
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Sep 6, 2022 09:07
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grassy gnoll posted:Don't know what I'm doing with weathering this ship-slash-spaceship. Slap more rust effects on there? Chipping? Big stupid scratch on the hull? Good weathering should tell a story. What has this vehicle been doing? Is it fresh from a battle? Did it sit in drydock for months? Has it been on a long patrol with limited support? Or is it prepared for a parade? So decide on what the story of the model is and then let that inform what weathering you do.
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Sep 6, 2022 14:04
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I have more questions about paint thinners. Based on previous answers to my questions I understand bulk chemicals from home depot and the like will never be good as actual airbrush thinners (because they are impure and a mix of many compounds?). So there are smaller quantities of stuff like Mr. Hobby leveling thinner or Tamiya thinner that are... something else? What actual chemical/mix of chemicals are the specialty ones? Or is it solvent mixed with additives made for airbrushing? This is for enamel paints for now since its what I have. I'm mostly asking because I have access to lab-grade chemicals like acetone, dichloromethane, hexanes, etc. and am wondering if in it a pinch I could use some of them (rather than waiting a week for a bottle to arrive).
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Sep 7, 2022 16:55
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I am not a chemist by any stretch of the imagination, but I've always found hardware store grade solvents to be way too hot for model use. As in, too potent in that they can damage the underlying plastic or paint layers. So, in short, just wait a week for the right stuff. Hey, you could start building another kit while you wait.
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Sep 7, 2022 17:27
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looking at msds sheets most thinners are some common alcohol combined with complex alcohols like whatever the hell 2-Pentanone, 4-hydroxy-4-methyl- is
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Sep 7, 2022 17:30
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Immolat1on posted:I have more questions about paint thinners. Based on previous answers to my questions I understand bulk chemicals from home depot and the like will never be good as actual airbrush thinners (because they are impure and a mix of many compounds?). So there are smaller quantities of stuff like Mr. Hobby leveling thinner or Tamiya thinner that are... something else? What actual chemical/mix of chemicals are the specialty ones? Or is it solvent mixed with additives made for airbrushing? This is for enamel paints for now since its what I have. Mr. Hobby leveling thinner is made for lacquer paints so you probably don't wanna use that. The problem with airbrushing alcohol and lacquer based acrylics is they can dry too fast, which is why thinners for those have retarding agents and stuff in them. Enamels are a pretty slow dry though, so you only really need the thinning agent and apparently plain mineral spirits/white spirit are an okay poor mans substitute. Of course you better have a good ventilation setup if you don't want your house to smell like pa's old shed. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 7, 2022 |
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Sep 7, 2022 17:33
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I haven't airbrushed a lot of enamel, but regular "oderless" mineral spirits (which still stinks to high heaven) from the hardware store worked fine for both thinning and cleanup. If you get into lacquers, go with what everybody says and use Mr. Color Leveling thinner for thinning your paint and hardware store lacquer thinner for cleanup. You could try to save a few bucks by mixing your own thinner using hardware store lacquer thinner and Mr. Retarder (yes, it is called that), but it's just easier to use the premade thinner from Mr. Color.
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Sep 7, 2022 18:40
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Thanks all, makes a lot of sense. I'm glad I can use the mineral spirits I have for the enamels, and I'm hoping enamels will just be practicing and getting a hang of airbrushing technique before getting everything in lacquer or acrylic. Sad I don't get to steal lab grade Mr. Hobbys leveling thinner from work though unless I stumble into an organic synth lab with the exotic alcohols...
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Sep 7, 2022 23:24
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Immolat1on posted:Thanks all, makes a lot of sense. I'm glad I can use the mineral spirits I have for the enamels, and I'm hoping enamels will just be practicing and getting a hang of airbrushing technique before getting everything in lacquer or acrylic. Sad I don't get to steal lab grade Mr. Hobbys leveling thinner from work though unless I stumble into an organic synth lab with the exotic alcohols... I wouldn't get too hung up on the specifics of paint and thinner. You can get hardware store lacquer retarder and lacquer thinner and mix up your own concoction that is close enough to Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. There isn't anything magical about it. It would just take some experimentation to figure out the right ratio. Retarder (which I am pretty sure is just some sort of glycerin or glycol) is added to the thinner because lacquer dries so fast that you can run into problems with a dusty finish from your paint drying before it hits the model. Yes, it dries that fast when you are using an airbrush. The retarder just slows the drying time by a few minutes so the paint is still wet when it hits the model and gives it time to level out so you don't get a bumpy or dusty finish. You'll see model building videos that annotate which paints they are using and exact mixing ratios of paint to thinner. Just use the ratios as a general guideline. As paint gets older, it gets thicker and will need more thinner. Figuring out how much to thin it is a result of experience. Don't worry though, even if it is a little too thick or a little too thin, you'll be fine. It doesn't have to be exact. If I have leftover paint in the airbrush cup, I just dump it right back in the paint jar - thinner, retarder, and all. My jars of paint are all over the place when it comes to consistency and it doesn't matter because I compensate for it when I thin it the next time. What works for me is that I use 1/2 oz or 1 oz portion cups as my mixing pot and add however much paint I think I need. Then I'll squirt in some leveling thinner from a squirt bottle and mix it up using a coffee stirrer (tiny black straw). I use the straw to sort of scrape some paint along the side of the portion cup and look at how opaque it is. I'm looking for about 80-90% opaque. I also use those coffee stirring straws to stir the paint and transfer it from the bottle to the cup by dipping it in the paint jar, then putting my finger over the end of the straw to hold the paint in the straw while I move it from the jar to the cup. I've learned that shaking the paint bottles (as opposed to stirring) is a terrible idea. For one, it doesn't mix it very well. For the other, you'll have wet paint all over the inside of the cap that will leak all over the threads as soon as you unscrew the cap. Be the anti-James Bond and do it stirred, not shaken. Another thing you might run into is that people will tell you not to apply certain types of paint over other types. Specifically, don't spray lacquer over anything but lacquer and don't spray enamel over acrylics. You can spray acrylics over lacquer or enamel without any problems. This is true if you are laying down wet coats, but, if you spray light coats, you can spray anything over anything. I don't recall that I've ever tried spraying enamel over acrylic, so that might be an exception. I have sprayed lacquer over enamel and acrylics without any problems. That's all kind of going down the rabbit hole. If you are getting into airbrushing, your technique is going to have a much bigger impact on how your model turns out than the type of paint you are using or the exact ratios you are thinning it. By technique, I mean figuring out a good air pressure, how much paint you are spraying from the nozzle (either by adjustment on a single-action or pulling the trigger back on a double action), how close you are holding the airbrush to the model, and keeping the spray perpendicular to the surface you are painting. That's easy to practice. Just put some water in the airbrush cup and spray an uncoated piece of cardboard aiming for a consistent finish. Keep the airbrush moving at a constant speed and spray beyond the edges of whatever you are painting before reversing direction for the next pass. The biggest mistake I see beginners make is that they focus so much on the model and start subconsciously moving the airbrush closer and closer until it is drat near touching the model and ends up in spider webbing. Just don't get discouraged or drive yourself crazy trying to get it exactly right. It doesn't need to be exactly right. Close enough is good enough and it doesn't take long to figure out how to get close enough. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Sep 8, 2022 |
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Sep 8, 2022 02:25
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I think the issue with using thinners not meant specifically for modelling, or spraying any kind of paint over any other kind of paint is how much risk do you want to take? Will it work out ok? Sure probably but there's a chance it won't and one of the most annoying things to try to fix on a model is a botched paint job. And that's if it's even fixable. All I know is I don't like to buy a minimum $30 dollar kit and take any chances ruining it so I just play it safe and use model specific everything on it.
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Sep 8, 2022 02:57
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You can also try out paints on plastic spoons or bowls.
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Sep 8, 2022 05:30
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