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Nerobro posted:Got another spool to try? I wonder if it's the filament... checking a few other rolls out. This stuff is an older roll of rainbow silk I have, which is probably also making it out to be a lot worse than it is in the real world. Still falls back to the only recent change being the nozzle/hotend/fan shroud though which is weird as hell
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Sep 9, 2022 22:51
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It's not easily possible to have octoprint power my prusa mk3s on and off, is it?
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Sep 10, 2022 02:18
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Deviant posted:It's not easily possible to have octoprint power my prusa mk3s on and off, is it? Define "Easily"
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Sep 10, 2022 02:21
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If octoprint has a plugin for Philips hue, or other smart plugs it might be able to do it that way easily, without needing to mess with pins and etc. And then just use a smart plug. That's how my raspi turns on my printer when I queue something up atleast. (Klipper pluss fluidpi, though.)
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Sep 10, 2022 02:22
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Deviant posted:It's not easily possible to have octoprint power my prusa mk3s on and off, is it? If you have an Amazon echo you could get a smart plug and use the app to power on/off at the outlet. I do not know if the prusa needs a soft shutdown and this would be rough on it though.
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Sep 10, 2022 02:26
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sharkytm posted:Define "Easily" i was going to build a 120V relay to address from the rpi and on/off the main, but it turns out the PSU Control plugin appears to interface with Wemo Smart Plugs, of which i have several spares, so i'll just use one of those. That *was* easy. Deviant fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Sep 10, 2022 |
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Sep 10, 2022 02:27
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I'm a big fan of the smart plugs, the govee ones run our back yard string lights on a built in digital timer, but also interfaces with voice control Anker makes the eufy brand ones which are great (and probably the smallest fire hazard) but they're hard to get since the pandemic
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Sep 10, 2022 03:09
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Been having this issue with ABS on my Ender 3:  Gets a couple layers down with this crusty/wispy stuff then clogs. Has happened with two different spools, this one I just opened. Could this be wrong nozzle size? I grabbed an unlabeled nozzle that I assumed was .4, but I guess there's no way to know for sure.
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Sep 10, 2022 04:18
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Have you ruled out a dirty build plate
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Sep 10, 2022 04:42
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Hadlock posted:Have you ruled out a dirty build plate I think that I'm pretty good about cleaning it (glass); I use a gluestick for adhesion but hit it with isopropyl spray and use a metal scraper pretty thoroughly between prints.
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Sep 10, 2022 04:50
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Is the nozzle too close? Like z axis wise? Otherwise nozzle diameter might be an issue I would think? Or maybe temp?
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Sep 10, 2022 04:52
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Unperson_47 posted:I got enough Prusameters to get a discount code for a free reel of PLA but the cheapest shipping is 20 bucks. I have enough points for the hoodie and I really want them to make a version without the godawful “EVERYONE IS A MAKER ONLY I AM A PRINTER” slogan on the back. The design on the front is great! Why did they have to ruin it!
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Sep 10, 2022 05:04
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I'm still gonna get it but I was thinking I could get away with $10 shipping at the most.
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I think that I'm pretty good about cleaning it (glass); I use a gluestick for adhesion but hit it with isopropyl spray and use a metal scraper pretty thoroughly between prints. I very much feel like it's your bed. No idea for for behaves adhesion wise over time, but if anything the extra thickness just had to affect something somewhere Maybe a good scrub with a brush/soap to hit the glue, get it all off, then a bit of iso and a wipe. I've never needed glue except for a bit of abs/asa, but then again I'm on a pei sheet w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Sep 10, 2022 |
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Sep 10, 2022 05:10
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I think that I'm pretty good about cleaning it (glass); I use a gluestick for adhesion but hit it with isopropyl spray and use a metal scraper pretty thoroughly between prints. Tell us more. Head temp, Bed temp, is that an enclosure? What's the temperature in there? I can't see if there's a sock on there. Measuring the hole in a nozzle isn't.. hard.. but you need to have the tools. If you have any doubt, swap nozzles.
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Sep 10, 2022 06:01
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Nerobro posted:Tell us more. Head temp, Bed temp, is that an enclosure? What's the temperature in there? I can't see if there's a sock on there. 240C/102C/yes, a LACK enclosure. Don't have a probe in the enclosure itself, but there's a sock on the hotend. The only other nozzles I have are also unlabeled  w00tmonger posted:I very much feel like it's your bed. No idea for for behaves adhesion wise over time, but if anything the extra thickness just had to affect something somewhere ABS is known for curling up, so I've gotten in the habit of using the gluestick. I'll try and give it a deep clean and try it without though. IncredibleIgloo posted:Is the nozzle too close? Like z axis wise? Otherwise nozzle diameter might be an issue I would think? Or maybe temp? That's a possibilty. When I swapped nozzles, the new one is slightly longer and therefore too close to the bed. There's something whack with my Marlin 2.0 firmware that I can't actually change the z-offset (and save it), so I've settled on using the baby-step Z in the Tune menu to back it off .28mm at the very start of the print. First layer looks fine.
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Sep 10, 2022 06:32
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Ethics_Gradient posted:240C/102C/yes, a LACK enclosure. Don't have a probe in the enclosure itself, but there's a sock on the hotend.
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Sep 10, 2022 06:40
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Anyone have any suggestions on what filament dryers they use? Seems like I have 2 rolls of ABS that I guess from sitting in my garage in what I thought were sealed rubbermade containers they have still gotten too wet to print with. I've ordered some vacuum sealed bags to move my filament into but would rather not loose these 2 rolls. Would also rather not use my oven as we, you know, cook food in there. Is the Sunlu one decent enough?
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Sep 10, 2022 12:00
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Unperson_47 posted:I got enough Prusameters to get a discount code for a free reel of PLA but the cheapest shipping is 20 bucks. good to know 'prusameters' is a big scam and i shouldn't worry about it.
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Sep 10, 2022 14:28
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Ethics_Gradient posted:The only other nozzles I have are also unlabeled Well get some decent nozzles before you do anything else, they're very cheap and should be considered consumables. Second, you don't need the LCD to set z-offset. Send G92 Z(your offset) and then M500 to save it.
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Sep 10, 2022 16:34
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Deviant posted:good to know 'prusameters' is a big scam and i shouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't call it a scam honestly, it's still a pretty cool bonus for using their site. Hoping they will start shipping out US rewards from printedsolid though.
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Sep 10, 2022 18:42
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Marsupial Ape posted:Where can I find the newest firmware for the Ender 3 v2’s LCD interface? All the documentation I have read says it should be bundled with the latest official firmware for the printer on Creality’s website. The current release does not have the screen firmware bundled. The screen doesn't really have a firmware. You can upload some icons and a font to its internal storage, and that's it. I wouldn't bother messing with the icons. I spent a long-rear end time trying to figure this all out, got it working, and the new icons are just as bad as the old ones. I did upload a nicer font, though.
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Sep 11, 2022 00:35
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cruft posted:The screen doesn't really have a firmware. You can upload some icons and a font to its internal storage, and that's it. I also prefer the new font. I installed latest pre-Marlin 2.0 merge version a while back. It makes it much more readable.
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Sep 11, 2022 00:41
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Well get some decent nozzles before you do anything else, they're very cheap and should be considered consumables. I'm looking at the start G-Code in Cura code:Was wondering how it should fit in relative to those G1 lines as well. edit: tried 260/110 and a clean bed, same result  Gonna try backing off from .12mm layer height to .16 and see if that makes a difference.edit: it seems like the filament is binding. I've put the filament dryer/enclosure at a 30 degree angle facing downwards to see if that helps, otherwise I'll just go back to the stock spool holder. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Sep 11, 2022 |
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Sep 11, 2022 00:59
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I'm looking at the start G-Code in Cura You don't even have to put it in your start code, just connect via repetier host or octoprint or whatever, send it once and save it with M500. And yeah you don't need G29 if you don't have a bed probe. e: if you want to put it in start code, you could put it at the top, but i wouldn't do that because you'll have a gcode file that forces a z height. that's gonna suck real hard if you change something about your hotend and forget. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Sep 11, 2022 |
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Sep 11, 2022 03:15
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I’m having one of those nights. Flashed the stock version of the Ender 3 v2 firmware back onto my machine. It is the latest release, with the BLTouch integration and the correct version of the board. Everything comes on fine. Every acts normal, screen looks like it’s reading the temp fine. The pre heat settings work and it will start heating. Drivers aren’t moving, though. I set it to auto-home, acts like it’s going to start, then just locks up. Manual control of X,Y, and Z does nothing. I have doubled check every connection, both to make sure they are in and in the right socket. So, I dunno. I finally gently caress up my board? Edit: disregard, I am a fuckwit. Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Sep 11, 2022 |
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Sep 11, 2022 04:32
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:You don't even have to put it in your start code, just connect via repetier host or octoprint or whatever, send it once and save it with M500. Ah, I gotcha! That does sound like it has the potential to cause a mental health episode later on if I forget about it. It was definitely my new filament enclosure causing it to bind; I put the rickety stock one back on and it's humming merrily along. Ages ago I bought some proper mounting hardware for it (it's two cruddy little screws sunk into the basically hollow LACK tabletop) but I lost them somewhere, guess I know what's on the Bunnings list now. I was really looking forward to having my filament in the dryer box while it printed, may see if I can build/print a pulley or two to help it change angle. Not super high up on the list though.
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Sep 11, 2022 05:29
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Marsupial Ape posted:
Strong contender for thread title
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Sep 11, 2022 05:38
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I'm still not quite over how cool it is that I can design something in Fusion 360, and less than an hour later be holding it physically in my hand.  I've got a post-processing question: I've got a number of self-tapping fasteners I need to install on a print but it is brutally hard to get them in the holes, and I'm not able to get them as far down as I need to. I'm guessing it's because I'm using ABS rather than PLA, and forgot to compensate for a little shrinkage in the holes (realised this was an issue with a print for another project). Should I use a drill bit to enlarge the holes a bit? Or is this a bad idea? I am tempted to see if I can replace them with some heat set inserts and little M2 or M3 bolts, had to buy a bunch in bulk for another project so hopefully have the right size laying around. Been making steady progress on assembling the 3D printed panoramic camera this weekend, although I think I'm gonna have to put off finishing it another week so I can redesign a few smaller pieces. Been getting a lot of mileage out of a set of little files I picked up on impulse at SuperCheap with some leftover store credit.
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Sep 11, 2022 08:39
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've got a post-processing question: I've got a number of self-tapping fasteners I need to install on a print but it is brutally hard to get them in the holes, and I'm not able to get them as far down as I need to. I'm guessing it's because I'm using ABS rather than PLA, and forgot to compensate for a little shrinkage in the holes (realised this was an issue with a print for another project). Yeah, this works great. I like to give these parts an extra thick shell so I have lots of meat left after enlarging the printed pilot hole. Also, t-nuts make a good alternative to those heat set inserts: 
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Sep 11, 2022 13:14
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Should I use a drill bit to enlarge the holes a bit? Or is this a bad idea? I do this all the time, it's fine as long as you have enough perimeters!
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Sep 11, 2022 16:12
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
Perfectly fine. I typically make holes right on size in CAD and they print out just a touch undersized, then hit them with a drill for a perfect fit.
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Sep 11, 2022 16:28
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I do this all the time, it's fine as long as you have enough perimeters! changing all my defaults to 3 perimeters is one of the few useful bits i took from the dingus over on maker's muse
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Sep 11, 2022 17:14
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Marsupial Ape posted:So, I dunno. I finally gently caress up my board? Okay, out with it. The thread needs to know the whole story here, even if it's boring. Each of us has been the fuckwit so many times that it isn't fair to deprive us an opportunity to read about somebody else being the fuckwit.
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Sep 11, 2022 20:40
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Opinionated posted:I wouldn't call it a scam honestly, it's still a pretty cool bonus for using their site. Hoping they will start shipping out US rewards from printedsolid though. The markup there is more than shipping from the mothership so I wouldn't hold my breath
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Sep 11, 2022 23:42
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Deviant posted:changing all my defaults to 3 perimeters is one of the few useful bits i took from the dingus over on maker's muse 3 perimeters is p. nice. I'm still such a newbie most of what he said except perimeters and infill type. Went over my head though.
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Sep 12, 2022 03:26
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is there a way to update the prusa firmware without connecting a computer to the printer?
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Sep 12, 2022 19:54
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Chainclaw posted:is there a way to update the prusa firmware without connecting a computer to the printer? I've been putting off a firmware update for months and would also like to know this
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Sep 12, 2022 20:10
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Chainclaw posted:is there a way to update the prusa firmware without connecting a computer to the printer? From what I could find only using an octoprint plugin, but I can't remember why I didn't end up using it. Seems a bit weird to me that it doesn't have the sd card method like every other printer seems to now. I just ended up disabling the warning that was coming up for the new version, from my reading it didn't have any real significant bugfixes.
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Sep 12, 2022 20:11
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The "firmware updater" octoprint plugin works for me. Except when I flashed the wrong mk2 image (rambo 1.0 instead of 1.3 iirc) and had to recover using a windows laptop
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Sep 12, 2022 20:12
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octoprint has to be running on a computer, connected to the printer, so that doesn't really work. I've found the built in prusa firmware has been good enough that I don't use octoprint anymore, unlike my previous two printers. Looking at the release notes, there's nothing I need on this list, so I'll just look into disabling the message instead of upgrading. https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/releases/tag/v3.11.0 edit: has anyone tried to get a refund on myminifactory ever? I'm sick of buying models that need some post-processing to be actually printable. I'd rather start refunding broken models so maybe the authors will get the hint, and buy models that are actually ready to go. Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Sep 12, 2022 |
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Sep 12, 2022 20:21
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