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Slugworth posted:I've got a 40v Ryobi battery that will only charge halfway. It seems to be charging normally, but the charger just stops at the halfway mark. My other battery charges normally, so it doesn't appear to be the charger's issue. It's 4 years old, so out of warranty. After 4 years I'd probably bet on battery degradation over a BMS/circuit board issue issue. These are big packs of 18650s, and most people I've watched on youtube living dangerously are doing it with a spot welder rather than a soldering iron because the heat transfer to the battery itself when soldering is less than ideal. I'd imagine it's quite possible to start a fire.
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Sep 8, 2022 00:20
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Danhenge posted:After 4 years I'd probably bet on battery degradation over a BMS/circuit board issue issue. These are big packs of 18650s, and most people I've watched on youtube living dangerously are doing it with a spot welder rather than a soldering iron because the heat transfer to the battery itself when soldering is less than ideal. I'd imagine it's quite possible to start a fire.
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Sep 8, 2022 00:26
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Slugworth posted:Enough said, thanks. A new battery isn't some crazy expense, but figured if it was an easy fix, I might as well save the money/be less wasteful There's some guys loving around with them on YouTube but one guy was like "I'm ready to throw this out of the garage if it catches fire." And another one that keeps saying "don't touch the circuit board while the batteries are connected, it could kill you." EDIT: You might be able to find someone to buy a dead battery if there's someone harvesting 18650s in your area, just offer it on fb marketplace for like 10 bucks. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Sep 8, 2022 |
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Sep 8, 2022 00:27
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Danhenge posted:There's some guys loving around with them on YouTube but one guy was like "I'm ready to throw this out of the garage if it catches fire." And another one that keeps saying "don't touch the circuit board while the batteries are connected, it could kill you."
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Sep 8, 2022 00:35
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Darchangel posted:Nobody addressed this, so I'll take a stab. Thanks for the follow up! I ended up replacing the orings both on that stem and on the nut piece and so far so good.
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Sep 8, 2022 00:45
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Danhenge posted:After 4 years I'd probably bet on battery degradation over a BMS/circuit board issue issue. These are big packs of 18650s, and most people I've watched on youtube living dangerously are doing it with a spot welder rather than a soldering iron because the heat transfer to the battery itself when soldering is less than ideal. I'd imagine it's quite possible to start a fire. an Aussie goon was telling me that every tradesmen down there knows someone who fixes up malfunctioing battery packs, just replacing the bad 18650 cell w a new one. I've never heard of this in the US and I think it would be more common here if it was feasible
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Sep 8, 2022 17:03
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:an Aussie goon was telling me that every tradesmen down there knows someone who fixes up malfunctioing battery packs, just replacing the bad 18650 cell w a new one. I've never heard of this in the US and I think it would be more common here if it was feasible I suspect if you know what you're doing and you have the right setup it's not so dangerous, but if your qualifications are "access to a multimeter and soldering iron, but absolutely no relevant battery experience" you're in the high-risk low-reward category for fiddling with 18650s in these battery packs. Having a spot welder would probably make the whole thing less fraught. The Ryobi 40v packs in particular don't seem to be set up for easy disassembly. The 18v batteries might be easier, I dunno. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Sep 8, 2022 |
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Sep 8, 2022 17:09
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Danhenge posted:I suspect if you know what you're doing and you have the right setup it's not so dangerous, but if your qualifications are "access to a multimeter and soldering iron, but absolutely no relevant battery experience" you're in the high-risk low-reward category for fiddling with 18650s in these battery packs. Having a spot welder would probably make the whole thing less fraught. It's totally doable for competent technicians, but there is some domain specific knowledge you need to do it safely, and it helps to have done the replacement on the particular pack before. Usually these packs are made with die cut metal tabs that are spot welded to the individual cells. If you can safely disassemble the pack, you can snip out the bad cells, glue in a new one and then spot weld some replacement tabs. Sometimes the pack will self-destruct if a cell is removed (undervoltage safety mechanism), and you might have to replace an electronic fuse and reset the battery management system (if present). The reason I would never trust any of these guys with my own batteries is that most people have no idea what they're doing with these kinds of battery packs. They will solder directly to the cells, which can damage the cells (or their built in protection, which is located at the positive terminal). They'll scratch insulation with sharp edges from nickel tabs, replace blown surfacemount fuses with straight jumpers and just do other dangerous poo poo (at least based on some youtube "repairs" i've seen over the years). edit: i should say, however, that all the battery manufacturers i've spoken with have strongly advised against this lol. they won't even build new battery packs with battery cells that were made a day apart, they need to be from the same lot and at least somewhat matched with each other (or else you risk accelerated degradation and dangerous under- or over- voltage conditions on single cells that the BMS might not be configured to prevent) Slanderer fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Sep 8, 2022 |
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Sep 8, 2022 17:22
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here's something I don't understand - I'm in a small condo, my neighbor upstairs had some water from above her come in through the vent - the vent is connected to the ductwork in the soffit to deliver cooling and heating from the HVAC unit. Apparently the source of the water was the drain from the tub in the unit above her, and they will need to open her ceiling to fix the issue. How could water from a tub drain get into ductwork? The way our plumbing is setup is we have basically four stacks for our three floor building. So each end has their own stack, and there are two stacks in the middle. The units in the same plumbing stack also share the same ductwork (hence the placement of the condensers for each group in four different corresponding areas behind the building). When we have had an issue with plumbing leaks before (on both ends of the building), the water showed up where the plumbing was in the HVAC closet, or in the laundry room. I've never heard of it coming in through a vent.
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Sep 9, 2022 03:27
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Once it's uncontained the water can flow wherever it sees fit more or less. Capillary effect makes it even harder to trace. So it leaks out of the drain, runs along the waste pipe that goes left to right or whatever reason, hits a bend which makes it drip off the pipe onto the duct. Ductwork let's the water through the ceiling from the grate which covers the gap between the drywall and the duct itself. (Not at all water tight.) This is just one way that happens. It could be dripping straight into duct.
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Sep 9, 2022 03:37
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H110Hawk posted:Once it's uncontained the water can flow wherever it sees fit more or less. Capillary effect makes it even harder to trace. So it leaks out of the drain, runs along the waste pipe that goes left to right or whatever reason, hits a bend which makes it drip off the pipe onto the duct. Ductwork let's the water through the ceiling from the grate which covers the gap between the drywall and the duct itself. (Not at all water tight.) ok thanks, so there would have to be a leak somewhere in the drain coming from the tub, and then the water from that can go anywhere.
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Sep 9, 2022 03:54
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Slanderer posted:It's totally doable for competent technicians, but there is some domain specific knowledge you need to do it safely, and it helps to have done the replacement on the particular pack before. Usually these packs are made with die cut metal tabs that are spot welded to the individual cells. If you can safely disassemble the pack, you can snip out the bad cells, glue in a new one and then spot weld some replacement tabs. Sometimes the pack will self-destruct if a cell is removed (undervoltage safety mechanism), and you might have to replace an electronic fuse and reset the battery management system (if present). yeah I suspect the liability in the US is too great. Modifying a battery against manufacturers recommendations and having that explode or start a fire would be ruinous for an enterprising battery technician too bad, I have no idea how long it would take but if you could bang out 2/hr and charge like $30-40 per battery that would be a win for everyone (but the manufacturers)
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Sep 9, 2022 12:40
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actionjackson posted:ok thanks, so there would have to be a leak somewhere in the drain coming from the tub, and then the water from that can go anywhere. pretty much. Also why you'll pay 2-3x as much for renovation work in a condo, shoot a nail in the wrong place and hit a water pipe and next thing you know the 3-4 adjacent units all have water damage.
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Sep 9, 2022 12:42
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:pretty much. Also why you'll pay 2-3x as much for renovation work in a condo, shoot a nail in the wrong place and hit a water pipe and next thing you know the 3-4 adjacent units all have water damage. yeah i see what you mean. my one piece tub/shower surround to tiled walk-in shower was about 11k. i doubt that was 2-3x as much as a detached home cost :p but I'm sure it added at least 1-2k
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Sep 9, 2022 14:46
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I am having my front entry door replaced soon and I am doing some prep work on the area. Above the door is a medallion type thing that looks like this: I will be repainting this and it needs some repair first. The perimeter where it meets the brick, as well as the transition from vertical to horizontal surface is caulked, but the caulk is broken and in some places pulling back from the brick.    I want to repair this before I repaint it, so what's my best course of action? My instinct is to cut out what i can with a utility knife and then re-caulk, sand and paint. Is there a better method? How anal do i have to be about getting every bit of old caulk out? Also is there a specific exterior caulk I should be using? Thanks.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:07
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actionjackson posted:yeah i see what you mean. my one piece tub/shower surround to tiled walk-in shower was about 11k. i doubt that was 2-3x as much as a detached home cost :p but I'm sure it added at least 1-2k $11k for what, to remove the tub/shower and do like 120sqft of tile work in the shower? Yeah that's a lot, at least in my market.
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Sep 10, 2022 09:53
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emocrat posted:I am having my front entry door replaced soon and I am doing some prep work on the area. Above the door is a medallion type thing that looks like this: your instincts are mostly correct, but you'll want to scrape the old paint off--not sand it. Set a tarp down beforehand to collect the old paint n caulk. i like OSI Quad Strength for applications like this. you wont be able to make a nice bead w your finger like with interior caulks, it'll just make a big mess. what you CAN do is make some soapy water w dish detergent and dip a paint stirrer (or whatever) in that and then the caulk wont adhere to it
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Sep 10, 2022 09:59
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Trying to figure out the best way to fix this molding on my kitchen countertop. It’s a Formica countertop and it looks like over time the wood framing for the counter/cabinet has started to bow in around the sink so it looks more like a “u” shape then a flat surface. This was pointed out to me when we got our dishwasher installed (to the right of the sink). Very long term project is replacing the cabinets but that’s not happening any time soon. I’ve recaulked the sink and want to fix the molding in the back. It’s this triangular piece of wood that looks like it was glued down with some grey liquid nails-type stuff and then had some caulk applied. Main concern is aesthetics and water intrusion near the back of the sink. Any suggestions? Kinda thinking to remove it, scrape off the old liquid nails, apply new, and somehow hold it down-then apply new silicon caulk. I dunno if that will work though since the framing seems to have bowed down.  
nwin fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Sep 10, 2022 |
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Sep 10, 2022 13:31
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You are on the right track; after scraping/sanding/prepping that backsplash, I'd use clear adhesive silicone caulk. Apply enough that it pushes out at the seams a bit. Be prepared to scrape it off almost immediately and hit the backsplash & counter seam with acetone. In the worst case: once it cures, you can tidy it up with a (clean, brand-new) razor, although it'll be tough to trim it behind the sink basin since it's tight back there. It'll hold until the end of time & also be waterproof.
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Sep 10, 2022 14:31
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If I suspect I have a minor gas leak in an old unused gas fireplace, is there a specific trade I call or an inexpensive detector I can get to confirm my suspicions? We don't use it because its on bad shape, but we have other gas using items in our house (furnace, not on right now, tankless which is). Like I said, it is just a sneaking suspicion but I dont think I can smell anything.
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Sep 10, 2022 14:36
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KKKLIP ART posted:If I suspect I have a minor gas leak in an old unused gas fireplace, is there a specific trade I call or an inexpensive detector I can get to confirm my suspicions? We don't use it because its on bad shape, but we have other gas using items in our house (furnace, not on right now, tankless which is). Like I said, it is just a sneaking suspicion but I dont think I can smell anything. If you're not using it why don't you just turn off the gas to it. It won't matter if it leaks or not then.
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Sep 10, 2022 14:43
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Matches are a very cheap detector. Heck if you have life insurance you could come out a million bucks ahead.  (... Really don't do this)
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Sep 10, 2022 14:51
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PainterofCrap posted:You are on the right track; after scraping/sanding/prepping that backsplash, I'd use clear adhesive silicone caulk. Apply enough that it pushes out at the seams a bit. Be prepared to scrape it off almost immediately and hit the backsplash & counter seam with acetone. In the worst case: once it cures, you can tidy it up with a (clean, brand-new) razor, although it'll be tough to trim it behind the sink basin since it's tight back there. It'll hold until the end of time & also be waterproof. So no liquid nail? The clear adhesive silicon should be enough to hold it down? I’m concerned that since it’s currently sticking up on its own, that the silicon won’t hold it. Maybe I need to keep pressure on it for an hour or so for curing time?
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Sep 10, 2022 15:22
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Motronic posted:If you're not using it why don't you just turn off the gas to it. It won't matter if it leaks or not then. I thought the fireplace company that did the inspection turned it off, but I think they just turned it off at the busted insert and not actually turned it off at the gas line outside, which is fine because to me that means they were staying in their lane. Here is a picture of the valve that goes to the fireplace, I am assuming that when running the direction of the pipe, it is on, correct? If so, do I just loosen the nut on the back a bit, make it perpendicular, and then re-tighten the nut?  H110Hawk posted:Matches are a very cheap detector. Heck if you have life insurance you could come out a million bucks ahead. Yeah, I am dense but even I know not to do that
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Sep 10, 2022 15:25
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If it's a joint or valve you suspect is leaking you can use a spray bottle of very dish soapy water. It will make growing bubbles if it's leaking. If you suspect it's inside the fireplace itself then you need to find the valve closest to it. When did someone inspect and disable the fireplace? There is a chance the actual valve they used is faulty.
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Sep 10, 2022 16:19
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H110Hawk posted:If it's a joint or valve you suspect is leaking you can use a spray bottle of very dish soapy water. It will make growing bubbles if it's leaking. If you suspect it's inside the fireplace itself then you need to find the valve closest to it. When did someone inspect and disable the fireplace? There is a chance the actual valve they used is faulty. That’s the valve closest and the pipe goes directly to the fireplace and it’s the only thing on that run. It was maybe two years ago right after we purchased the home. With that info and it being the only item on that pipe, perpendicular is off correct?
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Sep 10, 2022 17:00
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KKKLIP ART posted:That’s the valve closest and the pipe goes directly to the fireplace and it’s the only thing on that run. It was maybe two years ago right after we purchased the home. With that info and it being the only item on that pipe, perpendicular is off correct? I don't actually know. I will let someone else weigh in. Also isn't nat gas tape yellow? I just scream and hire someone any time there is gas involved.
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Sep 10, 2022 17:56
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H110Hawk posted:I don't actually know. I will let someone else weigh in. Also isn't nat gas tape yellow? I just scream and hire someone any time there is gas involved. Blue is thicker than yellow and required for larger pipe sizes. I have no idea which way is off for that valve either. It's probably 90 degrees from where it's at now and there definitely should not be any loosening of buts on the other side. Call a plumber. They will have a reliable leak tester and be able to not only shut off but verify that it's been shut off.
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Sep 10, 2022 18:02
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I need to run Romex for my sump pump across the basement ceiling. The run is perpendicular to the joists and I'd rather not punch through the joists. I know that I can run the wire down a running board. This wouldn't be an issue when the drywall goes in because I've already installed 2x3 straps to drop the ceiling to accommodate water lines and such. My question is can I just run wire along the thin side of the 2x3s, sorta like how you'd run wide down the thick side of the stud?
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Sep 10, 2022 18:34
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H110Hawk posted:I don't actually know. I will let someone else weigh in. Also isn't nat gas tape yellow? I just scream and hire someone any time there is gas involved. Motronic posted:Blue is thicker than yellow and required for larger pipe sizes. I found an online resource after I posted and it should have been 90* off from where it was to actually be off. Some of the valves apparently you loosen the back nut, but after finding this specific one, you can just turn it. So I've turned it off and I will try to get a plumber in ASAP. I would rather just disconnect that pipe all together and simply cap it off, both at the entrance for the fireplace and at the gas meter. Its in rough shape. Thanks for the help As fat as the blue tape, when we had our tankless installed, that was done by the book by a reputable local plumber that specifically works with gas. I wouldn't really mess with anything other than just turning off the gas line in case of emergency because gas is scary to me.
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Sep 10, 2022 18:45
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I have some metal siding that keeps sliding down a bit. What's meant to be holding it up at the top? And how do I get it to stay up there?  
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Sep 10, 2022 23:02
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nwin posted:So no liquid nail? The clear adhesive silicon should be enough to hold it down? I’m concerned that since it’s currently sticking up on its own, that the silicon won’t hold it. Maybe I need to keep pressure on it for an hour or so for curing time? I would pin it to the wall overnight, like so:  When I was remodelling my kitchen, during the countertop & sink replacement I found that the backsplash wall was not straight - it had a concavity. Since tearing out the plaster wall was not an option without de-mounting these ancient cabinets, I used silicone adhesive & pinned it to the wall. Has not been an issue in eight years.
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Sep 10, 2022 23:06
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Gas tape is yellow and thought the difference had to do with the chemical makeup - doesn't break down exposed to gas - in addition to the thickness, but I am not a professional don't listen to me.
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Sep 11, 2022 00:15
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Jenkl posted:Gas tape is yellow and thought the difference had to do with the chemical makeup - doesn't break down exposed to gas - in addition to the thickness, but I am not a professional don't listen to me. Yes and not quite. Colors mean different things. Not all of these tapes are just PTFE. In fact most have a few other additivies. Yellow and blue (thicker) are totally fine for gas. Green is fine too, but that meant for oxygen so it has no grease at all in it, so it while it will seal fine you may not get things back apart again. White is pretty standard, pink is thicker than white but just thick white tape.
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Sep 11, 2022 00:22
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I need to replace a couple little strips of vinyl(?) corner molding around my tub for my bathroom remodel, but I'm but having luck finding them...maybe my search terms are wrong? Found an item at Home Depot's website for like $66 and one that was just at a Lowe's commercial/B2B website. It's 1 1/8 " on the short/inside corner and 1 7/16" on the outside...so...yeah, great dimensions to work with. It's probably some proprietary piece from the Bathfitters or equivalent the PO used in the tub, but if I could say least find something close that'd be good. The inside dimension is most important since it meets up at the ceiling with another piece at a 45, but really anything inexpensive in a close enough size I'll work with.
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Sep 11, 2022 03:14
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Anyone have any clue what these hinges (circled in red) with the extra joint/section are called? They let the ground glass focusing panel flip up out of the way and be replaced by a film holder, was thinking of trying something similar on a homemade camera. I've tried a few search combination plus combing a few articles on hinges, but no dice. This design of camera back was more common in the 19th and early 20th centuries. 
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Sep 11, 2022 08:56
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DrBouvenstein posted:I need to replace a couple little strips of vinyl(?) corner molding around my tub for my bathroom remodel, but I'm but having luck finding them...maybe my search terms are wrong? Found an item at Home Depot's website for like $66 and one that was just at a Lowe's commercial/B2B website. I was able to find 1 1/8" x 1 1/8" x whatever pieces by searching "vinyl corner guards", maybe that would work for you? Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-M...62892588&sr=8-4
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Sep 11, 2022 11:38
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Anyone have any clue what these hinges (circled in red) with the extra joint/section are called? They let the ground glass focusing panel flip up out of the way and be replaced by a film holder, was thinking of trying something similar on a homemade camera. I've tried a few search combination plus combing a few articles on hinges, but no dice. This design of camera back was more common in the 19th and early 20th centuries. It's a double action hinge but I doubt you're going to find one on a shelf in the size you want. Rolling your own from plate brass doesn't seem like it'd be that hard though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvK3Dsvgk_g
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Sep 11, 2022 12:19
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Anyone have any clue what these hinges (circled in red) with the extra joint/section are called? They let the ground glass focusing panel flip up out of the way and be replaced by a film holder, was thinking of trying something similar on a homemade camera. I've tried a few search combination plus combing a few articles on hinges, but no dice. This design of camera back was more common in the 19th and early 20th centuries. You could use four hinges: one pair up top & the other below. Does not have to be a single compound unit.
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Sep 11, 2022 14:42
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:I was able to find 1 1/8" x 1 1/8" x whatever pieces by searching "vinyl corner guards", maybe that would work for you? Might have to go with that. It's def. too thick, the stuff I have is 1/32 at best, and that's 1/16, but I'll keep searching for thinner corner guards, see if I can find any.
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Sep 11, 2022 15:57
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