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cruft posted:I'm not arguing against claims it's a poorly-suited medium: it's horrible. I'm arguing that it's a medium that gets you way more exposure than anything else, including the almighty somethingawful forums, which used to be the most popular site on the entire Internet! You can tweet links
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Sep 15, 2022 23:19
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When breaking prints into smaller pieces, is there a way in prusaslicer to have it also add little in/out nubs to make it easier to line up the parts after printing?
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Sep 16, 2022 15:39
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Chainclaw posted:When breaking prints into smaller pieces, is there a way in prusaslicer to have it also add little in/out nubs to make it easier to line up the parts after printing? It really doesn't have any good tools to help with that unfortunately, doesn't really have anything beyond negative volumes/modifiers, and you'd have issues with aligning those sensibly without a lot of hassle. If you have to do it in prusaslicer, and have a simple way to line them up, you could just use a 1.7mm diam cylinder as a negative modifier to add space for a small filament pin, but that depends heavily on if you can easily line the modifier up with the parts. (Like if you split them apart, but they're both on the same axis still, etc.) I think the best suggestion for a case like this would be trying to get into one of the cad programs, just using a shape to split it apart should be fairly easy in any of them. Also ugh. Figured out why I've had some issues with print edges curling up: Prusaslicer by default only pushes like 35% fan speed, while Superslicer defaults to 100% for PLA prints. Oh well, now I know. I can't wait for Superslicer to update with arachne, it's insane how much better it is to use thanks to a ton of tiny QoL stuff.
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Sep 16, 2022 16:04
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There's a version of superslicer with arachne out already, just updated to it this morning. Not sure it's a stable release but it's out there.
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Sep 16, 2022 16:26
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Dr. Despair posted:There's a version of superslicer with arachne out already, just updated to it this morning. Not sure it's a stable release but it's out there. Yeah, considering the big change I'll let it mature into a stable release before diving in. Deviant posted:this is a comission so i'm doing precisely fuckall. you cannot pay me to use my finite hours on this earth sanding your bullshit. And yup, gap-filling and sanding takes a surprising amount of work, especially when you don't have like a dedicated workshop and/or do it enough to have a good flow.  Printed, gapfilled, sanded, primed, and chromed. I've pretty much finished the master sword print, and painted over the blade. I just hope it won't look too jarring/disconnected smacking a shiny, metallic blade into a grip that's just unprocessed, printed PLA. (But I really don't think I can be bothered to go over and postprocess the grip as well.) It all just really makes me wish I had a garage or something where I could just go nuts with a sander and etc, for future projects.
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Sep 16, 2022 17:16
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You can select between arachne and the old engine too so it's not too bad to try if you want, you aren't committed
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Sep 16, 2022 17:25
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I'm in the process of sourcing parts for a Voron, leaning more and more to just getting a kit rather than waiting for a single switch to arrive in late November, but someone gave me an idea that I am currently obsessed with: Does anyone have experience printing a rigid filament with integrated tpu parts? Like PLA but with TPU in the known friction spots. Either as a coating for durability or live hinges. And further, is there a commonly usable, direct drive, tool changer option for the Voron to accommodate this?
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Sep 16, 2022 20:05
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so we're all in agreement that tom has gone fully off his meds then? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmigF5qyJ4M 
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Sep 16, 2022 20:15
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Deviant posted:so we're all in agreement that tom has gone fully off his meds then? Until prusaslicer and others come with (good) default profiles for 0.6 nozzles that are compatible with the stock hot end on an ender 3/clone, yes
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Sep 16, 2022 20:30
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Hadlock posted:Until prusaslicer and others come with (good) default profiles for 0.6 nozzles that are compatible with the stock hot end on an ender 3/clone, yes imagine i posted a big picture of josef prusa's smug rear end face here
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Sep 16, 2022 20:41
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Deviant posted:so we're all in agreement that tom has gone fully off his meds then? Address concerns that his comparison was unfair with an unfitting car analogy and does not elaborate further. Cannot wait for the next two parts of this series where he fails to realize people have different use cases than him.
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Sep 16, 2022 20:46
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Serenade posted:Address concerns that his comparison was unfair with an unfitting car analogy and does not elaborate further. i still cannot decide what i want to do for cosplay parts. i may try a 0.6 for a while to get some speed and see if stuff still passes the 5 foot test
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Sep 16, 2022 20:53
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That video is unwatchable Today I learned that you can be good at explaining things but absolutely terrible at defending your argument I like that he opens his defense with "of course 0.6 is going to be worse quality than 0.4; of course it is" and then demonstrates a hot garbage 0.6 print next to a passable 0.4 0.6 is probably fine for anything larger than 16 cubic inches though, unless you're doing very large photorealistic models
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Sep 16, 2022 20:55
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Deviant posted:i still cannot decide what i want to do for cosplay parts. That is the specific use case I am interested in. Not an area I have experience in, but seems like where you'd want both print speed and quality.
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Sep 16, 2022 20:59
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I've been using a 0.6 for a while now and just now got it to play nice like a 0.4. Prusaslicer's default 0.6 profile is not good enough to just start printing even on a mk3s. Regarding quality, I haven't had any detail problems for 28mm terrain that stuck out to me. It's totally worth it for the time savings. I did print a Intermodal container model where I lost all the little handholds and greeblies, but I sliced it at 0.3 to start with. I switched to 0.15 and got all those details back. 0.2 was hit or miss but that was a common problem even using a .4 nozzle. I just got Brumbo's 0.4 tungsten, so I will be switching back until I finish this roll of magnetic PLA. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 21:12
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Serenade posted:That is the specific use case I am interested in. Not an area I have experience in, but seems like where you'd want both print speed and quality. the key is that i dont think i need quality outside of 5-10 foot viewing distance, so i think the quality drop is probably worth the speed increase.
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Sep 16, 2022 21:31
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Can an ABS filament clog cause a heating failed error (Ender 3)? I had some ABS that seemed to have gotten stuck in the hotend, which was causing the printer to give a heating failed error message around 245C and beep at me to shut it down. I was getting them every so often but it become constant when this filament was stuck in there. I was eventually able to free it by setting the hotend temp to 240 and yanking it pretty hard; it's now merrily holding steady at 260C.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:50
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What's a profile? Seriously though... I rarely use the same print settings twice in a row. I have a single "profile" in Cura that gets adjusted on the fly. There's almost always a small tweak here or there to tailor things to whatever particular model I'm printing. The settings I used for the last thing are often not exactly right for the current thing. Is it the "best" way to do things? I honestly couldn't say. Has it worked for me for many years? Absolutely. I've always liked learning how the various parameters affect things, and changing them to suit whatever it is I'm doing at any given moment.
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Sep 17, 2022 00:34
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Can an ABS filament clog cause a heating failed error (Ender 3)? Swap the the hot end thermistor with the bed thermistor and see if the error replicates once you reach that temp. If if fails, then you have further troubleshooting. If if doesn’t fail, then the hotend thermistor is going bad, which is a relatively inexpensive and easy fix. I finally got to futzed around with the printer (Ender 3 v2) after flashing the latest firmware. I have mixed feelings. The auto level function is much faster. I didn’t time it, but it wasn’t nearly the 4 minutes it usually takes. I think it’s a little too fast, actually, since when the hotend assembly travels to the furthest right of the gantry, the nut of the up most wheel clacks against the metal sloping ‘endstop’. (I’ll post pics, later). That may be a mechanical issue I need to address. The PLA and ABS preheat settings are now customizable, but the heating elements no longer stay on during auto level sequence and that is some bullshit. Regardless, the Benchy it poo poo out last night was about as good a Benchy as it has ever printed. I didn’t bother to post a pic because it honestly just feels like bragging. Good times, I guess.
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Sep 17, 2022 01:05
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Chainclaw posted:When breaking prints into smaller pieces, is there a way in prusaslicer to have it also add little in/out nubs to make it easier to line up the parts after printing? If you have to make more than a dozen registration marks and multiple projects, it is probably worth learning enough of some CAD to do it just from an efficiency perspective. OnShape and Blender are great free places to start with. OS is more engineering oriented while Blender is generally more sculptural, so totally different angles of attack for however your brain is.
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Sep 17, 2022 02:35
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Deviant posted:so we're all in agreement that tom has gone fully off his meds then? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DAP5Zm1jvk Shoot, the stock setup from superslicer is a 140% extrusion width on the first layer ANYWAY. .. admittedly I still need to watch the video, but printing wider than your nozzle is ~par for the course~. Attached video is printing at like 2mm wide through a .4 nozzle. Edit: Welp. "Printing wider than your nozzle is a good plan". Yup Tom, that's right. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Sep 17, 2022 |
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Sep 17, 2022 06:49
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Marsupial Ape posted:I finally got to futzed around with the printer (Ender 3 v2) after flashing the latest firmware. I have mixed feelings. The auto level function is much faster. I didn’t time it, but it wasn’t nearly the 4 minutes it usually takes. I think it’s a little too fast, actually, since when the hotend assembly travels to the furthest right of the gantry, the nut of the up most wheel clacks against the metal sloping ‘endstop’. (I’ll post pics, later). I blew up an endstop switch by running my homing too fast, I was slamming the carriage into it too hard. Thankfully they're cheap, but that was annoying. Anyway, here's a pretty decent blog post on tuning your homing / probing speed in Marlin: https://www.crosslink.io/2022/04/29/ultra-fast-probing-and-homing-with-marlin-firmware/
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Sep 17, 2022 16:23
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Serenade posted:I'm in the process of sourcing parts for a Voron, leaning more and more to just getting a kit rather than waiting for a single switch to arrive in late November, but someone gave me an idea that I am currently obsessed with: Go for sub-component kits from domestic vendors. Fabreeko, kb-3d, 3dmakerparts, deepfriedhero, etc. They'll get you all the way there with minimum purchases, and known good-quality on-BOM parts. If you want a toolchanger, go for a Trident for sure. TPU is also pretty sticky, not sure why you'd use it as a friction surface.
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Sep 17, 2022 17:16
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insta posted:Go for sub-component kits from domestic vendors. Fabreeko, kb-3d, 3dmakerparts, deepfriedhero, etc. They'll get you all the way there with minimum purchases, and known good-quality on-BOM parts. Those sub-component kits are exactly what I was looking for. I don't need to hand select every single nut and bolt, but I do want to pick a few things for myself. Why Trident over 2.4? Since last posting, I did find the Enraged Rabbit Project, which isn't a tool changer but is multi material. I don't know if there's something like the Prusa XL tool changer for Vorons yet. And by friction surface I don't mean as lubrication, more like wear resistance or grippy bits. Edit: "Overmolding", that's what it's called. Serenade fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Sep 17, 2022 |
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Sep 17, 2022 19:19
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I've got a resin printer and my friend keeps pushing an idea and I'm not sure how viable it is. He says I should make things that can screw into a light socket with something humorous on the other end. He says everyone's got overhead light sockets they don't use. I'm ignorant on the properties of both resin and live light sockets.
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Sep 17, 2022 20:41
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Yeah, all those....empty light sockets, that everyone just has.
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Sep 17, 2022 20:51
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While resin is probably non conductive I would advise against inserting anything into a light socket. If brittle resin happened to break and pieces became caught in the threads and the socket was used in the future it could be problematic. That being said you can 3d print thin lithographic style art that could go around a light bulb. Perhaps you could 3d print such a lithograph in two parts and glue it around a lightbulb.
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Sep 17, 2022 21:05
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Who the gently caress just has a bunch of empty light sockets on their ceilings I... think there might be one in my basement? Maybe?
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Sep 17, 2022 21:10
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I actually had a pair of empty sockets on my old bathroom light fixture (4 incandescent bulbs for a 4x8ft room? no.) I filled them with pla plugs and nobody died e: if your model only engages with the threads and doesn't touch the bottom center, it's not even interacting with the socket electrically cephalopods fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Sep 17, 2022 |
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Sep 17, 2022 21:24
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SubNat posted:Yeah, considering the big change I'll let it mature into a stable release before diving in. Try Krylon ultra flat Camouflage primer (any color). It’s fantastic at hiding print lines but retaining details. Then you can skip two steps.
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Sep 17, 2022 23:09
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Serenade posted:Those sub-component kits are exactly what I was looking for. I don't need to hand select every single nut and bolt, but I do want to pick a few things for myself. Trident's fixed gantry makes actual toolchangers possible, in addition to the ERCF. You can have one hotend on the ERCF and a second hotend with the rubbery breakaway support material. Trident and 2.4 use the same motion system and extrusion hardware. There is no quality difference in their prints. Trident is faster to build, cheaper, but doesn't scale as large in Z.
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Sep 17, 2022 23:22
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Doctor Zero posted:Try Krylon ultra flat Camouflage primer (any color). It’s fantastic at hiding print lines but retaining details. Then you can skip two steps. Thanks for the good tip, but unfortunately it's not really available in Norway. It's one of the frustrating things, because outside of a few large brands like Citadel, it's incredibly difficult to find stuff around here based on tips from abroad. It's usually a matter of finding something close-enough that's carried in stores here. But I will try to cast a wider net and see if some online stores might have flattening/smoothing primer like that, whenever I get on to doing another post+paint project like this.
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Sep 17, 2022 23:38
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SubNat posted:Thanks for the good tip, but unfortunately it's not really available in Norway. You can use JetCarrier to get poo poo shipped to Norway from the US, but you'd have to do the math on if its worth it.
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Sep 17, 2022 23:59
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Making and selling homemade things to go in light sockets sounds like A Bad Business Idea to me.
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Sep 18, 2022 04:19
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SubNat posted:Thanks for the good tip, but unfortunately it's not really available in Norway.*snip* Norway? You guys have a heck of a car culture don't you? Your local auto parts store should have "high build primer". High build primer makes all sorts of things disappear. A little digging shows you have "normal" auto parts stores. (It's trippy to be going through https://www.thansen.no/bil/olje-og-kjemi/billakk/n1066768/ from the US..) And even they appear to carry duplicolor. (That's a brand I use here) Duplicolor calls their high build primer "filler" primer. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Sep 18, 2022 04:40
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withak posted:Making and selling homemade things to go in light sockets sounds like A Bad Business Idea to me. Yeah this is how people die, literally screwing around with empty light sockets If I were your dad I'd tell you to stop hanging out with this guy
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Sep 18, 2022 05:18
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Doctor Zero posted:Try Krylon ultra flat Camouflage primer (any color). It’s fantastic at hiding print lines but retaining details. Then you can skip two steps. Do you mean camouflage paint? I don't see a primer in this style.
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Sep 18, 2022 16:23
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If you guys were going to add a third 3d printer to your setup what would it be? I have a mini and an ender 3. I was looking at a mk3s but I could get 2.5 ender 3 v2s for that kind of money. I'm mainly printing dnd terrain so just speed and volume is all I need
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Sep 18, 2022 16:28
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queeb posted:If you guys were going to add a third 3d printer to your setup what would it be? I have a mini and an ender 3. I was looking at a mk3s but I could get 2.5 ender 3 v2s for that kind of money. I'm mainly printing dnd terrain so just speed and volume is all I need If you know how to run the Ender3, get more Ender3's.
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Sep 18, 2022 16:31
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Deviant posted:Do you mean camouflage paint? I don't see a primer in this style. It's probably brand-specific, a name for filler primer, which fills in minor imperfections while leaving details.
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Sep 18, 2022 16:43
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