|
Trabant posted:The fan/house (well, condo)/wiring are all 14 years old I suddenly don't think it's the fan, but I don't know what is happening to tell you definitely what's causing the issue. I hear you on not replacing a functional appliance especially a TV. I literally just told my father in law today that I basically replace a TV when it fails to turn on. This might be it giving you death knells though, so maybe shopping for a sale is a good idea.
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2022 00:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 20:05 |
|
|
Too new to have gone to crap?  Update: the multimeter shows ~120V on the outlets, which spikes up to ~140V at the moment the fan is turned off. The voltage then drops down to 120V within a second or so. So it's not just the TV that's experiencing it. The whole circuit is affected, but the TV is the only one really showing it. Could be because the other devices are DC and have a tiny buffer, per Corla Plankun's suggestion? I'm not really familiar with AC circuits, so I don't know whether that behaviour is to be expected when a load is removed from the circuit.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2022 01:41
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Too new to have gone to crap? No - just I don't know how to go from here. 140v is uh, too many. It's almost like it's wired backwards or there is a diode missing or something. There shouldn't be a path to hot with the switch off though... Neutral getting loaded up with the windings field collapse? Ac power is magic. I have no idea but I guess the current thing to check is the wiring or the motor.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2022 01:47
|
|
|
how do I properly adjust these? what I've noticed is that the right bifold door comes out farther from the closet interior than the other one (basically when it's closed, you can push it in somewhat). so the depth isn't equal. can these be used so that the doors "grab" each other to correct this misalignment?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2022 17:50
|
|
|
do I want to bend the part of the left one closest to the dryer so that it will sit in the spot indicated when closed that would keep the right door in place (?)
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2022 17:53
|
|
|
Are there any furniture risers that won't make something fancy look like poo poo? I scored a Dordoni Worktop off of Facebook. I'd like to make it an inch or two taller, but would rather not make this investment look dumb with brown rubber risers. There are clear acrylic levelers on each leg, which screw in - the ideal solution is to find replacements that are just taller, but how do I find something that is the correct "gauge" of screw to fit the legs?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 05:31
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Too new to have gone to crap? So I mean it's a fan. Motors are just generators running backwards, and vice versa... so when you stop feeding a motor voltage, it turns in to a generator and gives the voltage back so long as it's still spinning. But, uh, it shouldn't be putting voltage back on mains with the switch open. That's... not particularly possible without the loud ZZZZAAAAPPPP sound of electricity bridging the air gap... What kind of switch controls the fan? Is it a dumb on/off toggle switch? Or something fancy like a timer/humidity sensing switch?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 12:47
|
|
|
KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:There are clear acrylic levelers on each leg, which screw in - the ideal solution is to find replacements that are just taller, but how do I find something that is the correct "gauge" of screw to fit the legs? Assuming they're machine screws or something instead of screw screws a lot of hardware stores will have a little block with all of the standard thread sizes you can try your screw in to figure out what the threads are. Two inch feet may look weird no matter what they're made out of, though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 13:23
|
|
|
KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Are there any furniture risers that won't make something fancy look like poo poo? Have you considered lowering whatever is making you want to raise this desk? It looks extremely intentionally designed and I think raising it by two inches is going to gently caress up the silhouette a lot.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 14:36
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:So I mean it's a fan. Motors are just generators running backwards, and vice versa... so when you stop feeding a motor voltage, it turns in to a generator and gives the voltage back so long as it's still spinning. It's a dumb on/off toggle switch, part of the 2-gang with the bathroom light switch. I think replacing the fan (and possibly the switch?) might be the only way to determine what specific part of the circuit is at fault. But if neither of those fixes it... welp!
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 15:48
|
|
|
Trabant posted:It's a dumb on/off toggle switch, part of the 2-gang with the bathroom light switch. I mean a switch is cheap and quick to swap out if you know your way around electricity, but if it's just a dumb toggle then I feel like it's super unlikely to be the cause. Replacing the fan is less straight forward. My own experience from doing my bathroom fan is that a replacement may be a different physical size and may have wiring enter in a different spot, which could make it a giant PITA to replace if you don't have attic access to it (or even if you do). maybe ask in the wiring thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739 All sorts of goofy stuff can happen when there's a wiring problem.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 15:56
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Assuming they're machine screws or something instead of screw screws a lot of hardware stores will have a little block with all of the standard thread sizes you can try your screw in to figure out what the threads are. Two inch feet may look weird no matter what they're made out of, though. Corla Plankun posted:Have you considered lowering whatever is making you want to raise this desk? It looks extremely intentionally designed and I think raising it by two inches is going to gently caress up the silhouette a lot. I think raising it by 1-2" (I need to get an exact measurement) won't gently caress up the silhouette too much so long as it's done tastefully - ie, by replacing the integrated levelers with something taller, rather than by putting dumb rubber risers under each leg.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 15:58
|
|
|
I don't know if you can squeeze out a bit of extra height by inserting something between the legs and the top. Would depend on how they're attached, obviously.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 16:11
|
|
|
KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:So they're made of acrylic and have a huge "screw" part (like half an inch in diameter.) Probably bigger than anything at the hardware store. That's a pretty normal size for a bolt.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 17:46
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:I mean a switch is cheap and quick to swap out if you know your way around electricity, but if it's just a dumb toggle then I feel like it's super unlikely to be the cause. Thanks, I'll post it there too. I've replaced plenty of switches and outlets, so I feel OK with doing this one too. The fan... well, it seems to still be available for sale, but (a) I don't really trust that the manufacturer hasn't made changes while keeping the model # the same, and (b) it looks like the builders used silicon to seal up the fan/duct interface. On one hand, that might be code or just good practice, in which case well done (for once). On the other hand... gently caress, I'd have to get rid of it and then re-do it. And since this is a condo in the middle of a high-rise, there's no attic. I'd have to do it all through the ceiling 
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 19:54
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Thanks, I'll post it there too. For $20 I'd probably buy the new one and see if you can just swap the guts over. It looks like Broan does make replacement parts, but they're like 4x the cost of a new fan. As long as you disassemble the new one first to see if it's possible, worst case you're out $20.  From what I think is the right diagram, it looks pretty easy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 01:07
|
|
|
I actually used to have the exact fan in my condo bathroom and had it replaced recently with an 80 CFM version which was only 1.1 sonnes. Because it was larger, it didn't match up perfectly with the 3" ducting, so the person had to open the wall and remove some of the rigid ducting, and replace it with flexible.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 01:18
|
|
|
devicenull posted:For $20 I'd probably buy the new one and see if you can just swap the guts over. It looks like Broan does make replacement parts, but they're like 4x the cost of a new fan. Agreed -- I think I just have to swap out the motor assembly from the new fan I can get at Lowes. I know they're famous last words, but... it should be a 2-minute job. actionjackson posted:I actually used to have the exact fan in my condo bathroom and had it replaced recently with an 80 CFM version which was only 1.1 sonnes. Because it was larger, it didn't match up perfectly with the 3" ducting, so the person had to open the wall and remove some of the rigid ducting, and replace it with flexible. Oh, a more powerful fan would be nice but that's probably not in the cards. I'm in the same spot where I'd have to cut into the wall, but I think I'd rather deal with a 1-for-1 replacement of the 50 CFM than with having to find a contractor and dealing with HOA nonsense. Plus, you know, it would be about $30 for a new fan and beefier switch and that sounds a lot more palatable
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 05:09
|
|
|
 The kids previously tore off the doorstop from the door. Months later they BURST through the door. That is a doorknob sized hole for scale. Is there a trick to patching plaster or should I just spend a few hundred to have someone come out? Also anyone want 2 kids the circus isn't taking them...
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 05:16
|
|
|
Since I'm hanging around the thread maybe I can try to help! I actually had decent-to-good results with kits like these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Large-Hole-12-fl-oz-Wall-Repair-Kit-LHR-KIT/207109031#overlay https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-DryDex-8-oz-Wall-Repair-Patch-Kit-12345/100493601 You'd need to paint over it, obviously, but that's a given no matter who patches it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 05:26
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Since I'm hanging around the thread maybe I can try to help! Perfect. I have the code for the paint (behr jade something) and I in theory have a pint of it around here somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 05:32
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:
Plaster, huh? 1) buy plaster in a carton. Read instructions. 2) stuff hole with 3) mix up plaster to consistency of cookie dough. 4) moisten the inside perimeter edges of the hole with a wet rag. This also removes any loose crap. 5) pack in the plaster, preferably with 6) smooth to surface. A damp rag can help clean up the edges and even work in a smooth surface. 7) install door stop at baseboard to avoid a repeat performance.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 05:45
|
|
|
This is for sure a PO move, but it seems like one of these guys would fix both of your problems in 30 seconds
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 07:29
|
|
i like nice words
|
H110Hawk posted:
That’s plaster? Where’s the backing/lathe? Was it previously repaired? I thought it was drywall at first
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 12:26
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:That’s plaster? Where’s the backing/lathe? It might be plaster board.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 12:35
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:
This is like some of the old rear end drywall in our 50s house. Pink, crumbly, and a pain in the rear end to deal with. Rakeris fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Sep 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 13:25
|
|
|
Anne Whateley posted:This is for sure a PO move, but it seems like one of these guys would fix both of your problems in 30 seconds We used to have one of those stuck to the wall. Now there is a sticker on the wall where it used to be. Rakeris posted:This is like some of the old rear end drywall in our 50s house. Pink, crumbly, and a pain in the rear end to deal with. Yeah I don't know. When we had big holes cut in it for various work we were told it was plaster. They patched it with this perforated ramboard looking stuff and goop. Lots of goop. It certainly looked like plaster. But the house is 1947 yet this room tested negative for lead (using a home pen test.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 15:17
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Yeah I don't know. When we had big holes cut in it for various work we were told it was plaster. They patched it with this perforated ramboard looking stuff and goop. Lots of goop. It certainly looked like plaster. Huh, I would have thought there would be lath/wire poo poo behind it if plaster, but I don't know much about it other than I helped a few friends rip it out of old rooms. I thought what we had was some sort of plaster as well due to the texture and how it fell apart, but a friend that does construction in the area said it was just "old poo poo drywall, it's pink cause it's from some texas gypsum mine". No idea if any of that is true, but pic for reference hah. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 15:41
|
|
|
At the risk of double posting the same comment, I'm pretty sure it's called plasterboard, it's like the half way point between lath/plaster and drywall. At least in my 1950's construction house, you'd put 16"x48(?) on the wall, nailed to the studs. Then you'd do a thin coat of plaster on top of that. Metal mesh would be on the corners and ceiling transition. Edit: According to the youtube comments, apparently it's called Button Board. Edit 2: According to a further google dive, it's actually called Rock Lath, but Plaster Board and Button Board are both used to describe the same thing though. It's what this guy is installing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tti-PyT5KE AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Sep 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 16:07
|
|
|
Rakeris posted:Pink, crumbly, and a pain in the rear end to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 16:08
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:At the risk of double posting the same comment, I'm pretty sure it's called plasterboard, it's like the half way point between lath/plaster and drywall. That seems pretty likely. It's a creamy texture on top but certainly is a fixed dimension on the back without a backer which would mean manufactured off-site. Also I feel like stuffing the kid into the wall would make the problem worse when just their hand would give me sufficient backer.
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Sep 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 16:10
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:At the risk of double posting the same comment, I'm pretty sure it's called plasterboard, it's like the half way point between lath/plaster and drywall. Yeah pretty confident you are correct in my case at least. It's hard googling for the stuff as it appears it wasn't used very long and a lot of people use the various terms interchangeably, including calling it drywall.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 17:02
|
|
|
also good luck finding skilled tradespeople if you ever need to match a plaster rock lath finish in an area where plaster is no longer common. Doing actual full plaster was impossible and it took my GC forever to find a drywaller that would even attempt to a blueboard + plaster with skip trowel wall. Turned out OK in the end but I much prefer the 3/4+3/4 walls for solidity and sound deadening. My next project will probably specify double drywall in an attempt to get closer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 17:13
|
|
|
Qwijib0 posted:also good luck finding skilled tradespeople if you ever need to match a plaster rock lath finish in an area where plaster is no longer common. Doing actual full plaster was impossible and it took my GC forever to find a drywaller that would even attempt to a blueboard + plaster with skip trowel wall. Turned out OK in the end but I much prefer the 3/4+3/4 walls for solidity and sound deadening. My next project will probably specify double drywall in an attempt to get closer. I luckily have found this company. The other side of my wall had a water-heater sized hole cut in it for my copper repipe done by amateurs, and then another section for my re-wire done by this company. Instead of a rectangle sized water heater patch it looks like 1/3 of it was never cut out ever and the amateur patch is now rectangle-and-thin-strip. It's nuts. They patched the 100 holes from the re-wire and I cannot tell where they did it across the whole house. I know that $350 would get this done and dust free.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 17:38
|
|
|
There's a sheet-rocked wall between my office and my daughter's room, and she is loud as gently caress. What should I consider when looking into ways to dampen sound between our rooms? I'm sure there's almost nothing I can do when it comes to bumping against the wall, but it seems like there's probably something I could do that could help with the rest of the noise. My first thought was insulation, but I think that implies pulling off a layer of sheetrock and it seems like there's probably a less intrusive solution since I don't actually care about R Value, just noise. I own the place so I can basically do whatever, the dividing wall has a couple of outlets but no plumbing or AC lines. It bisects two rectangular rooms just like the middle bit in here: ◫
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 17:41
|
|
|
Corla Plankun posted:There's a sheet-rocked wall between my office and my daughter's room, and she is loud as gently caress. What should I consider when looking into ways to dampen sound between our rooms? How much money are you willing to spend? This is a serious question. It dictates the potential solutions.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 17:51
|
|
|
Blow in cellulose insulation is going to be the "easiest" and cheapest, but you can basically go nuts on price to Motronic's point. Put a mechanical white noise machine in her room close to your wall. It's what therapist's use to make it so that you can't hear adjoining conversations.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 18:33
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Blow in cellulose insulation is going to be the "easiest" and cheapest, but you can basically go nuts on price to Motronic's point. "Easiest" and likely cheapest is to hang tapestry/generic 3m acoustifoam on the noise-offending side.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 18:57
|
|
|
Motronic posted:"Easiest" and likely cheapest is to hang tapestry/generic 3m acoustifoam on the noise-offending side. PainterofCrap posted:Sound proofing, huh?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 19:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 20:05 |
|
|
Motronic posted:How much money are you willing to spend? I think my limit is probably $500 or so unless y'all think it is worth it to swap out the hollow door to the shared hall. Maybe I could pitch the tapestry idea to her. The house in general lets sound travel better than I would like (probably due to everywhere engineered bamboo floors) so it would be cool if I could use this wall to test out some solutions that I could apply elsewhere. The tapestry solution could definitely apply downstairs, and I've been really captivated by giant macrame lately. Maybe I should pick up the hobby and macrame a bunch of sound deadening tapestries everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 20:07
|
|