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w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Scipiotik posted:

Out of curiosity what resin is that? I rarely have failures using anycubics plant based, but it's not 100%

Try out sirayatech fast, even better if you mix 10% tenacious. Mountains better than the plant base water washable stuff for durability

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Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I pretty much just use Phrozen Aqua 4k. It's a bit more expensive but my results have been consistently great and it occasionally goes on sale.

Scipiotik
Mar 2, 2004

"I would have won the race but for that."

w00tmonger posted:

Try out sirayatech fast, even better if you mix 10% tenacious. Mountains better than the plant base water washable stuff for durability

I have some of that, does it really cure as fast as they claim? I'm just using up the rest of my anycubic stuff.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Scipiotik posted:

I have some of that, does it really cure as fast as they claim? I'm just using up the rest of my anycubic stuff.

I'm 2.5-8s a layer depending on the age of my saturns. Pretty much everyone claims their times are fast though.

If you really want to chooch, look into vroom speeds. Crank you lift/retracts to 240. It'll knock a significant amount of your print times and counterintuitively will decrease your failure rates

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

Bucnasti posted:

Yeah my failure rate went to almost zero when I switched to a better resin.

biggest regret starting 3d printing was starting with a cheap "doesn't matter if I waste it!" resin, because yes, there was a lot of waste, and it does matter when your failure rate is 50% on a good day.

head58
Apr 1, 2013

Casual Encountess posted:


i pulled a ton of stuff off thingiverse, but are there other places to check out? flatline city was recommended as a good paid terrain set but im open to ideas and advice for making a 40k scale trainyard and city off just an ender3

I just finished printing off this train on my Ender3 for a Necromunda board https://imperialterrain.com/products/vandos-train-bundle-digital-stl-files?_pos=4&_sid=4c771d4df&_ss=r

My plan is to use some Sector Mechanicus supports for holding up elevated track sections.

Warlayer has a bunch of industrial stuff that could look good in a trainyard also.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Eediot Jedi posted:

biggest regret starting 3d printing was starting with a cheap "doesn't matter if I waste it!" resin, because yes, there was a lot of waste, and it does matter when your failure rate is 50% on a good day.

Yeah when I started I tried a bunch of different types of resin from different manufacturers, water washable, eco, clear, etc. Then there was a buy 3 get 1 free deal on Phrozen, and I got four bottles of it, other than some Tenacious for stuff I want to be extra sturdy I now only use Aqua 4k. Prints look great, and my failure rate went way down.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Must be my connection point settings because I'm using STech Fast + Tenacious for my goo and still getting lots of unfinished parts.

Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


I haven't really had any issue with cheap resin, I actually got more failures with sirayatech than anycubic and its twice the price.

But that could be down to that was what I was using when I was a beginner.

The options are probably different here in the UK though, there's either a few brands available at 20-odd quid per 1000g which is as cheap as it gets or it goes up to 40 or 50 with nothing in between.
Anycubic was fine though I use Sunlu atm and that's even cheaper and works nicely for everything I've tried it for.

Other than sirayatech early on, the only resin I've had issues with was this British made engineering resin Crestaform which was too inflexible so small models would tear to pieces trying to remove the supports but worked well for big tanks and was this nice transparent blue colour.
That used to be the cheapest available here but they raised their prices and good riddance imo, this Sunlu stuff is much better for my needs.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Remember too, coming into winter, if your running your printers in a basement/garage/wherever that room temperature affect cure times.

I forget every year and gently caress up a run of minis. There are a couple higher end printers that are starting to come with vat heaters (phenom forge?), And they seem like a really good idea.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
There are some DIY tips online of using I think LED strips from plant growers to warm them. Personally I just aim a cheap desk heater at it, but I never get down too far in the temp range.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug
Edit: whoops, meant to post in the other thread

BadMedic fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Sep 22, 2022

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Printed this terrain out and slapped some craft paint on it. Pretty happy with how they came out; I’ve got a third extra-large piece printing now.


Toebone fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Sep 23, 2022

Scipiotik
Mar 2, 2004

"I would have won the race but for that."

w00tmonger posted:

I'm 2.5-8s a layer depending on the age of my saturns. Pretty much everyone claims their times are fast though.

If you really want to chooch, look into vroom speeds. Crank you lift/retracts to 240. It'll knock a significant amount of your print times and counterintuitively will decrease your failure rates

I looked up Vroom like you mentioned, so far 3 successful prints (with some very fiddly bits) and each one saved like an hour.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Scipiotik posted:

I'm super new, but in my experience the orientation of the mini to the build plate is probably more important than the support density/size. Is that something you more experience folks would agree with? I'm getting to the point where I can look at a presupported mini and calculate where I think it might have problems and head them off without wasting time on the print.

oh i forgot i was in the non-generic 3d printing thread.

i actually mostly do cosplay parts which very much do not come presupported.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Every time I say I’ll make a supports video it takes me so long (because :effort:) that by the time I’m ready to go with it, there’s a new version of lychee. I guess I should stop being a perfectionist and just bang one out

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Deviant posted:

oh i forgot i was in the non-generic 3d printing thread.

i actually mostly do cosplay parts which very much do not come presupported.

Aren't a lot of cosplay parts "supports" of some sort ?

:wink:

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

I've been thinking of branching out from Warhammer 40k to Battletech, so I'm printing some Battletech terrain. So far I'm loving how much smaller scale Battletech is, I can print what seems like useful terrain in like 1/10 the time (40 minutes instead of like 7 hours).

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
I have a problem when I print! The bottom layers print fine, then the next layer separates and everything goes slightly wonky after that. I've recently changed the fep and cleaned the z-rod, tried with new resin, and upped the exposure, but nothing helps. It doesn't happen when I use .05mm layers, so I'm thinking that the z-rod sticks somewhere right as the bottom layer finishes with .03mm. The temperature is the same as always where I print.
Other things I've considered: I've already hosed up the fep. The screen is finally dying, even though it looks fine when I test it. My vat is hosed up so the low exposure layers catch on something.
Am I missing any possibilities? I've finally ordered a metal vat to replace the original one, and I'll try to clean the z-rod some.

Gort
Aug 18, 2003

Good day what ho cup of tea
Anyone seen decent minis for a Troubleshooters campaign? Anything James Bond or 60s would probably fit, but there seems to be a real dearth of modern spy minis, supervillain henchmen or any of that sort of thing out there.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Electric Hobo posted:

I have a problem when I print! The bottom layers print fine, then the next layer separates and everything goes slightly wonky after that. I've recently changed the fep and cleaned the z-rod, tried with new resin, and upped the exposure, but nothing helps. It doesn't happen when I use .05mm layers, so I'm thinking that the z-rod sticks somewhere right as the bottom layer finishes with .03mm. The temperature is the same as always where I print.
Other things I've considered: I've already hosed up the fep. The screen is finally dying, even though it looks fine when I test it. My vat is hosed up so the low exposure layers catch on something.
Am I missing any possibilities? I've finally ordered a metal vat to replace the original one, and I'll try to clean the z-rod some.

You might want to try the main 3D printing thread, that's a better place for debugging problems with printers https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973815

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


Gort posted:

Anyone seen decent minis for a Troubleshooters campaign? Anything James Bond or 60s would probably fit, but there seems to be a real dearth of modern spy minis, supervillain henchmen or any of that sort of thing out there.

BigMrTong has a series of Spectre-type henchmen (https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/james-bond-spectre-minions-blofeld-and-characters). Signing up for the Patreon for a month is cheaper AND you get access to everything he's made.

I've also looked through a poo poo ton of Heroclix for potential spy-fi miniatures, I think I still have a list of stuff.

Gort
Aug 18, 2003

Good day what ho cup of tea

Lumbermouth posted:

BigMrTong has a series of Spectre-type henchmen (https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/miniatures/figurines/james-bond-spectre-minions-blofeld-and-characters). Signing up for the Patreon for a month is cheaper AND you get access to everything he's made.

I've also looked through a poo poo ton of Heroclix for potential spy-fi miniatures, I think I still have a list of stuff.

That's excellent, thanks. If you've that list, I'd be glad to see it.

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


Gort posted:

That's excellent, thanks. If you've that list, I'd be glad to see it.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pec_aa5muhyUHIrI7JyvdjNOvVGnES3zZZdj7HK00uA/edit

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


is thingiverse b orked? i wanted to get a CaliCat STL to test my rebuilt prusa y-axis but it's throwing an error at me.

Alternately, what's a decent non benchy quick printer test?

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Deviant posted:

is thingiverse b orked? i wanted to get a CaliCat STL to test my rebuilt prusa y-axis but it's throwing an error at me.

Alternately, what's a decent non benchy quick printer test?

A lot of what's on Thingiverse is also on MyMiniFactory, so when Thingiverse is down you can just go there.

This is my favorite test print, low poly Bulbasaur

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-low-poly-bulbasaur-14951

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Deviant posted:

is thingiverse b orked? i wanted to get a CaliCat STL to test my rebuilt prusa y-axis but it's throwing an error at me.

Alternately, what's a decent non benchy quick printer test?

Yeah, it's boned:


Sometimes I just print a 20mm calibration cube to see that things are working right or test a filament color, even though it's not a real test of everything a printer can do. I'm sure there's better but it's fine for that kind of thing and doesn't use much filament. The classic one is also on myminifactory and youmagine.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


oh, i meant to post this in the main 3d thread but aight. I got bored and am just running off a benchy right now.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Deviant posted:

oh, i meant to post this in the main 3d thread but aight. I got bored and am just running off a benchy right now.

Sup fellow currently printing a Benchy crew.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



You can also check printables.com. It’s run by Prusa and is a much easier to find stuff on then Thingiverse.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Cults3d also has a lot of great stuff and for free 3D tabletop gaming stuff is probably the best out there.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Funzo posted:

You can also check printables.com. It’s run by Prusa and is a much easier to find stuff on then Thingiverse.

i am aware of their work, the one i wanted (calibration cat) isn't on there

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


Look at this guy, too good for boats.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Ego Trip posted:

Look at this guy, too good for boats.

In fairness the cat is very cute and both my wife and daughter loved the two I made.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
You ever spend a day calibrating your printer only for it to stop reading USB sticks or just pause during a print for no reason? Yeah, me neither. :smith:

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

BlackIronHeart posted:

You ever spend a day calibrating your printer only for it to stop reading USB sticks or just pause during a print for no reason? Yeah, me neither. :smith:

I spent a day trying to print and then realize issues were coming from a clogged heater. At that point I decided screw it I’m returning this and just buying terrain and maybe the Squats set. Luckily there are lots of stl creators who either directly or via partners sell their works preprinted.

I’m just way too close to going full blown sunken cost time fallacy into this.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Every time I'm about to buy a 3d printer, I read this thread and empty my cart.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

Lumpy posted:

Every time I'm about to buy a 3d printer, I read this thread and empty my cart.

It’s mostly cheap printers that are a problem nowadays. I’ve owned several printers since 2013, and a modern mid priced printer like a Prusa is really easy to use. Minimal adhesion problems, leveling is easy, it’s got a bunch of safety features, etc.

It’s definitely way less maintenance work and debugging than my 2d printer.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Lumpy posted:

Every time I'm about to buy a 3d printer, I read this thread and empty my cart.

I can assure you I am not represenitive of 3d printing in anyway. It's cool an fun if you can get it going right.

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Scipiotik
Mar 2, 2004

"I would have won the race but for that."
As a newbie to resin printing I have to say the mono 4k has been trouble free and I've printed easily 200 minis (including some multipart ones that are easily 12 inches long), most issues were just stupid mistakes on my part. Filament printers may be another thing altogether!

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