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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
Now I just make mediocre wood things for the work crews. This is to support a piece of machinery with 100lb rated drawers on sliders. The top is recessed so the machine can’t be pushed off by accident.



The old counter to the left there was what we were using

Sockington fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Oct 19, 2022

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ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Eww



Ooh



Ahh


Made some shop furniture with some nasty pine my neighbor left when he moved out of the shop space. Turning gross wood back into nice lumber is fun.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Meow Meow Meow posted:

That is a very nice router table, you're off to a good start.

I just put the first coat of oil on a couple marquetry panels. These will be going into a furniture piece I've been working on. I took a whole bunch of photos of the making of these so I think I'll do an effort post outline the method. I tried a different method than I normally use (and outlined a few years back). They turned out well, my biggest complaint was that dust from the walnut background really got into the dyed poplar, so next time I'll go straight from the scraper to finishing.





The shading on those flowers is excellent.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Made a box, to hold some building blocks I made for a friend's kid.



The project was a bit of a mess. It sat around in my workshop for over half a year while I procrastinated. I used the last of my really wide cherry boards for the walls (the box is roughly 1 cubic foot), and of course I marked my tails wrong, so one of them got "cut off" and had to be glued back on, which didn't work very well. And I'm not exactly an expert at dovetails, so the fit's pretty uneven. I decided to lean into it by making everything irregular, on the theory that then the stuff I couldn't do well wouldn't stand out as much. So it's a "rustic" box. Still sturdy as gently caress and will hold blocks just fine.

The finish on that cherry looks fantastic. I like the kind of natural edges at the top, that’s a neat look. Dovetails are hard! They are totally a ‘practice makes perfect’ thing, and even then prepare to still screw up on occasion. I’ve cut, idk, a gazillion dovetails both by hand and with a jig and the other day I still managed to cut some backwards. Easy enough to fix, but one drawer has smaller pins than the rest on the back.


ColdPie posted:

The shading on those flowers is excellent.
It gets better every time and I love watching the journey. Someday I would really love to learn marquetry.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The finish on that cherry looks fantastic. I like the kind of natural edges at the top, that’s a neat look. Dovetails are hard! They are totally a ‘practice makes perfect’ thing, and even then prepare to still screw up on occasion. I’ve cut, idk, a gazillion dovetails both by hand and with a jig and the other day I still managed to cut some backwards. Easy enough to fix, but one drawer has smaller pins than the rest on the back.

Thanks for the kind words! I've done plenty of practice dovetails, but this is the first project I've tried to use them seriously on. I cut the tails on my bandsaw and the pins by hand. Definitely something where I can't imagine getting a super clean fit without using jigs and machine tools for everything.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Very cool old desk showed up in my shop this morning:


The desk surface slides out too, and the leather part raises up at an angle.

I think it was probably a cabinetmaker's own desk judging from the inlays and high quality of materials, possibly as a showpiece in his workshop. A local antiques guy thinks it is English, and he's probably right. Drawer sides and bottoms are all quartered oak which is very English, but the pigeonhole drawer fronts look like curly maple which is a little more American. The flush fit, campaign style hardware on the interior bottom drawers is very English however, I don't think I've ever seen anything like that on an American piece.



At first I thought this inlay was some curly southern yellow pine which would have been very cool and unusual, but looking closer at the grain I don't think it is SYP:

I have no idea what it actually is. Kind of looks like some curly ash maybe?

I'm VERY curious about how the cylinder top was made and how it works. It looks it is veneered on the inside too, but it's hard to tell. I'm just waxing and cleaning up the piece so I don't think I'll be able to take it apart and find out, but it works basically perfectly after 200 years.


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Thanks for the kind words! I've done plenty of practice dovetails, but this is the first project I've tried to use them seriously on. I cut the tails on my bandsaw and the pins by hand. Definitely something where I can't imagine getting a super clean fit without using jigs and machine tools for everything.
If I have more than a drawer's worth, I set up leigh dovetail jig to cut the pins (first) and then cut the tails on the bandsaw and clean up with a chisel. It helps me tremendously have at least one part done with a machine so that at least something is 90degrees. Bandsaw does that well even on handcut pins-it just removes one more chance for error. You could make a fairly simple homemade router jig to cut the straight pins-just some angled 'fingers' at the taper angle you want the pins, and some way for them to move in/out. Could also I guess cut them on a crosscut sled on the tablesaw, holding the pin board upright with the miter gauge at the angle you want the pins cut. Or just spend all the time it would take to make those jigs practicing with a handsaw.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Very cool old desk showed up in my shop this morning:


The desk surface slides out too, and the leather part raises up at an angle.

I think it was probably a cabinetmaker's own desk judging from the inlays and high quality of materials, possibly as a showpiece in his workshop. A local antiques guy thinks it is English, and he's probably right. Drawer sides and bottoms are all quartered oak which is very English, but the pigeonhole drawer fronts look like curly maple which is a little more American. The flush fit, campaign style hardware on the interior bottom drawers is very English however, I don't think I've ever seen anything like that on an American piece.

Carpentry notes on the left of the desk, Freemason notes on the right :D

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Wallet posted:

I know people will have some other recommendations that are more suitable if you're willing to invest some time in learning something more fully featured, but if you want something extremely simple that just lets you figure out if things are going to fit together I really love TinkerCad. It's actually intended for 3d printing and laser cutting, I think, but it has the approximate complexity of MS Paint, it runs in a browser for free, and you can learn how to lay a simple project out in ten whole minutes.

Yo I finally got around to checking out the modeling recommendations and this is the one I liked best to just sanity check my simple project, thanks bigly

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Very cool old desk showed up in my shop this morning:


The desk surface slides out too, and the leather part raises up at an angle.

I think it was probably a cabinetmaker's own desk judging from the inlays and high quality of materials, possibly as a showpiece in his workshop. A local antiques guy thinks it is English, and he's probably right. Drawer sides and bottoms are all quartered oak which is very English, but the pigeonhole drawer fronts look like curly maple which is a little more American. The flush fit, campaign style hardware on the interior bottom drawers is very English however, I don't think I've ever seen anything like that on an American piece.



At first I thought this inlay was some curly southern yellow pine which would have been very cool and unusual, but looking closer at the grain I don't think it is SYP:

I have no idea what it actually is. Kind of looks like some curly ash maybe?

I'm VERY curious about how the cylinder top was made and how it works. It looks it is veneered on the inside too, but it's hard to tell. I'm just waxing and cleaning up the piece so I don't think I'll be able to take it apart and find out, but it works basically perfectly after 200 years.

If I have more than a drawer's worth, I set up leigh dovetail jig to cut the pins (first) and then cut the tails on the bandsaw and clean up with a chisel. It helps me tremendously have at least one part done with a machine so that at least something is 90degrees. Bandsaw does that well even on handcut pins-it just removes one more chance for error. You could make a fairly simple homemade router jig to cut the straight pins-just some angled 'fingers' at the taper angle you want the pins, and some way for them to move in/out. Could also I guess cut them on a crosscut sled on the tablesaw, holding the pin board upright with the miter gauge at the angle you want the pins cut. Or just spend all the time it would take to make those jigs practicing with a handsaw.

There's a few maple species growing in Europe too. Field, Norway, and Sycamore maples (Acer campestre, A. platanoides, A. pseudoplatanus iirc), and those have curly grain sometimes too. Or maybe it was imported from North America. Certainly made by someone who had a good eye, that's for sure.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Could be chestnut. There was tons of chestnut used in fine woodwork for centuries but we hardly ever see it available any more, because of the blight and mass death of the species.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Very cool old desk showed up in my shop this morning:


The desk surface slides out too, and the leather part raises up at an angle.

I think it was probably a cabinetmaker's own desk judging from the inlays and high quality of materials, possibly as a showpiece in his workshop. A local antiques guy thinks it is English, and he's probably right. Drawer sides and bottoms are all quartered oak which is very English, but the pigeonhole drawer fronts look like curly maple which is a little more American. The flush fit, campaign style hardware on the interior bottom drawers is very English however, I don't think I've ever seen anything like that on an American piece.



At first I thought this inlay was some curly southern yellow pine which would have been very cool and unusual, but looking closer at the grain I don't think it is SYP:

I have no idea what it actually is. Kind of looks like some curly ash maybe?

I'm VERY curious about how the cylinder top was made and how it works. It looks it is veneered on the inside too, but it's hard to tell. I'm just waxing and cleaning up the piece so I don't think I'll be able to take it apart and find out, but it works basically perfectly after 200 years.

My goodness. What an amazing antique. The pores of that piece in the last shot look like walnut, but I've never seen walnut anything with figuring like that. A lot of the piece is walnut.

Why is it in your shop? Do you do antique repair?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Mr. Mambold posted:

My goodness. What an amazing antique. The pores of that piece in the last shot look like walnut, but I've never seen walnut anything with figuring like that. A lot of the piece is walnut.

Why is it in your shop? Do you do antique repair?
Yeah the texture of it does remind me of walnut, but it’s clearly not. Idk what it is. The rest of the desk is mahogany with some satinwood and other inlays. I do repair antiques occasionally-this is here to get cleaned and waxed and hopefully deal with some of the rings on the desktop.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

PokeJoe posted:

Yo I finally got around to checking out the modeling recommendations and this is the one I liked best to just sanity check my simple project, thanks bigly



I’ve never really had a chance to do much 3d or CAD work but feel like I’d love it. Thanks for this for me to look into.


Picked up a $60 table saw to get some stuff done I’ve been fighting with. It’s a no frills direct-motor drive, but I can’t argue the price or usability. Fence, extending tables, etc. I sold my similar drive but ancient Delta for $40 a couple years ago with nothing attached, so I’ll call this a solid upgrade.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I have the 8 1/4" dewalt table saw and i love it for my needs as a remodeler .. works great for ripping moulding, trim, sheet goods, dimensional lumber, etc AND i can one-hand it up and down stairs no problem. The biggest thing i thought i was missing was the ability to rip 2x4s the long way, ie: 3 1/2" cut depth .... well i found out that the 10" table saws only have 3 1/8" cutting depth

What am i really missing out on w the smaller table saw? So far it seems like:
-reduced capacity for ripping
-reduced cut depth
-limited blade selection (honestly my biggest gripe)
-no dado stack ability

is that it? I realize the reduced rip capacity can be a big issue for woodworkers but the 3 1/8" cut depth changes my tune from "man i need a bigger saw" to "man im glad i have a light saw"

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I almost rarely use above 2" depth of cut on my tablesaw, I find the bandsaw better suited for thick rips. Also in terms of rip capacity my fence rails are cut down and I only have 16" which is fine for 95% of my sold wood uses. If I was using a lot of plywood 16" might get old, but I don't use that much and my tracksaw handles plywood just fine.

I do love using my dado stack though so that would be a downside. In terms of blade selection, I always have a 40 tooth combo blade on it, I don't find myself using specialty blades or anything.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?
If you're doing remodel work then a light table saw that can be where you want it to be without hurting yourself is ideal. There's a reason they make them in roughly 3 sizes and that Dewalt of yours is basically designed from the ground up for people who remodel houses.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

If your saw isn't choking on the work you give it and you're not having problems keeping it stable when you run stock through yeah you're missing nothing

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

TBH I'd rather do a lot of horrible things than rip construction lumber with a blade 3 1/2" out of the table.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Thanks for the affirmations, folks. Yeah I love that little thing but all the YouTube woodworkers have 10" saws so of course FOMO ensues.

Hypnolobster posted:

TBH I'd rather do a lot of horrible things than rip construction lumber with a blade 3 1/2" out of the table.

:D

a couple times a year we do garages and when they don't form the slab with curb edges, my boss rips the mud sill on a bias to compensate for the pitch, to ensure that everything is plumb. I thought he just did it in one shot but he must do half one way and flip it around for the other side, I'll have to ask.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I wish my high school had shop class twenty years ago so I wasn’t learning basic wood working in my late 30s.

Friend cut me a deal on a pair of Stanley planes and sent me to Matt Estlea’s YouTube to sharpen and set them up.


Also picked up a cheap 3.25” wide electric for cleaning up rough cut pieces. I can definitely see why the 12” models are popular after making a few passes at wider boards with my small electric.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug
Me, an idiot, avoided using jigsaws for anything for years because I couldn’t control my old Porter Cable plug-in unit. Every time I tried making any sort of precise cut, it’d just wander off like a dog with ADHD at a tennis tournament. Tried better blades, tried using fences, just couldn’t get a cut that looked even remotely okay. I figured I just sucked at hand guided woodworking and that I was a pure square-cuts-only idiot.

Thanks to a lovely gift card from work, I recently bought a Makita XVJ01 as a last resort for a project and holy poo poo, jigsaws are awesome.

I know tool brand snobbery is stupid but I could’ve avoided literal years of frustration had I spent proper money on a real tool the first time out.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
My Ryobi plug in is kind of frustrating too, I should maybe see about getting a nicer one.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

funeral home DJ posted:

Me, an idiot, avoided using jigsaws for anything for years because I couldn’t control my old Porter Cable plug-in unit. Every time I tried making any sort of precise cut, it’d just wander off like a dog with ADHD at a tennis tournament. Tried better blades, tried using fences, just couldn’t get a cut that looked even remotely okay. I figured I just sucked at hand guided woodworking and that I was a pure square-cuts-only idiot.

Thanks to a lovely gift card from work, I recently bought a Makita XVJ01 as a last resort for a project and holy poo poo, jigsaws are awesome.

I know tool brand snobbery is stupid but I could’ve avoided literal years of frustration had I spent proper money on a real tool the first time out.

Was your porter-cable barrel handled or D-handled? Barrel handle jigsaw makes all the difference for me, something about pushing the saw rather than pulling it along makes for a much better cut.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

Was your porter-cable barrel handled or D-handled? Barrel handle jigsaw makes all the difference for me, something about pushing the saw rather than pulling it along makes for a much better cut.

The Porter Cable is D-handled. It’s such a huge change in control that it’s like a completely different type of tool, like using a track saw instead of a circular.

I had no idea why they’d make different control setups for tools but now I see exactly why, the barrel handles just “click” with me I guess.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Better jigsaws have waaaaaay better blade guides and that makes all the difference ime.

w4ddl3d33
Sep 30, 2022

BIKE HARDER, YOUNG BLOOD
this is insanely niche but has anybody in here every built a turkey coop, specifically? i want to but i have no idea where to start and also i've never done any woodworking in my life. i could very easily get my hands on a ton of recycled wood but i don't know where to begin when it comes to planning it all out

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


w4ddl3d33 posted:

this is insanely niche but has anybody in here every built a turkey coop, specifically? i want to but i have no idea where to start and also i've never done any woodworking in my life. i could very easily get my hands on a ton of recycled wood but i don't know where to begin when it comes to planning it all out

You can try the Poultry thread for specific advice. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3417601&pagenumber=414#lastpost

I did a duck coop, but most of my focus is keeping critters & weather out.

revtoiletduck
Aug 21, 2006
smart newbie

w4ddl3d33 posted:

this is insanely niche but has anybody in here every built a turkey coop, specifically? i want to but i have no idea where to start and also i've never done any woodworking in my life. i could very easily get my hands on a ton of recycled wood but i don't know where to begin when it comes to planning it all out

Under Dunn recently did a giant chicken coop.

His videos are not as funny as he thinks they are, but it's pretty thorough.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
You take that back sir, try watching his other channel, Aging Wheels. It's the most fun you can have watching someone change a cv joint.

Got four of the next round of storage cubbies assembled. Gotta prep and finish these and get them delivered before the last four.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

revtoiletduck posted:

Under Dunn recently did a giant chicken coop.

His videos are not as funny as he thinks they are, but it's pretty thorough.

I don't really get the sense that I'm expected to laugh at every joke so much as he's having fun doing it.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug

NomNomNom posted:

You take that back sir, try watching his other channel, Aging Wheels. It's the most fun you can have watching someone change a cv joint.

Got four of the next round of storage cubbies assembled. Gotta prep and finish these and get them delivered before the last four.


How many millions of Dollars/Euros in plywood is that? :stare:

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
The thing with pocket hole jigs is you might think "I'm not doing a ton of stuff that needs pocket holes, I'll get one of the simpler Kreg jigs" but then the problem is it's not that every project will need 1 or 2 pocket holes, it's that any project that uses pocket hole screws needs like 20 of them.

w4ddl3d33
Sep 30, 2022

BIKE HARDER, YOUNG BLOOD
okay so. i am a filthy city slicker and i'm trying to figure out things by feel here. if i'm building a coop, to create a roof i just have to build a wooden structure, top it with some insulation, and then attach some roofing sheets, right? what kind of wood is best to go underneath the insulation?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

w4ddl3d33 posted:

okay so. i am a filthy city slicker and i'm trying to figure out things by feel here. if i'm building a coop, to create a roof i just have to build a wooden structure, top it with some insulation, and then attach some roofing sheets, right? what kind of wood is best to go underneath the insulation?

Builders in my area use spruce, it's usually whatever softwood is strong and plentiful where you live. That's more of a carpentry question than woodworking though.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

w4ddl3d33 posted:

okay so. i am a filthy city slicker and i'm trying to figure out things by feel here. if i'm building a coop, to create a roof i just have to build a wooden structure, top it with some insulation, and then attach some roofing sheets, right? what kind of wood is best to go underneath the insulation?

I would suggest making the roof out of plywood and putting some shingles or something like that on it. I’m not sure where your insulation comes in to play.

If it’s a bird coop you want plenty of airflow if possible. They get stinky and if you’re in a cold climate the moisture from poop and breathing will increase the risk of frostbite. Some eave vents are a good idea.

If cold is the reason for insulation, think about making the interior space smaller. A drop ceiling can help or some people fill up their coops with hay bales. Turkeys are pretty cold hardy id imagine though.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

funeral home DJ posted:

How many millions of Dollars/Euros in plywood is that? :stare:

Well it isn't baltic birch. It's "paint grade" Vietnamese birch, was $79 per 4x8 sheet. I sized the units to use one sheet of 3/4“ each, and one third sheet of 1/4“.

The quality has been all over the place, some sheets have been flawless, some have had huge voids or delaminations. If they want any more furniture after this order I'm insisting that we use a higher grade.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

revtoiletduck posted:

Under Dunn recently did a giant chicken coop.

His videos are not as funny as he thinks they are, but it's pretty thorough.

Thanks for the link, I actually did think he was pretty funny.

Danhenge posted:

I don't really get the sense that I'm expected to laugh at every joke so much as he's having fun doing it.

:agreed:

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
A simple picture frame for a print I bought:



Made from some purpleheart I had lying around. One of the miter joints popped open after I started finishing the wood, so I reinforced the corners with some dowels:



Drilling 45-degree holes through the corners of an 18x24" picture frame is kind of a pain, lemme tell you :v: But I'm happy with how it came out!

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Is there some wiggle room on bandsaw blade length? My bandsaw manual says it takes 80" blades, will a 80.5" blade work?

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Yeah, that should work. Your bandsaw should have a blade tensioner, which moves one of the wheels up/down to maintain the right tension.

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