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c355n4 posted:Going to be drywalling a 4'6" x 6" room. Any tips/tricks? I'm most worried about doing the ceiling. Would I be ok with just getting that general purpose premix? I already have the following or will be getting:
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Oct 25, 2022 16:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You might look into hiring some mice to help? Luckily your material costs should be very low. May have to just stick it on with liquid nails or something, gonna be hard to use a hammer or screw gun in that small of a space. Woops, its a very tiny room for mice. 
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Oct 25, 2022 16:45
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c355n4 posted:Going to be drywalling a 4'6" x 6' room. Any tips/tricks? I'm most worried about doing the ceiling. Would I be ok with just getting that general purpose premix? I already have the following or will be getting: A bunch of thoughts: Looks like you've got main stuff. A tool for cutting out ceiling lights can be nice, but is doable with the jabsaw. A rasp to clean rough edges can help too. Also, a panel lift to bring the lower sheets tight tobthebone above is nice too. None of those are a big deal really especially for a job your size. Oh and a pan or hawk since you didn't mention it. You'd want to bed the fibafuse with quickset if going that route. Same for mesh tape. I'd recommend just doing everything with all purpose light and paper tape, unless you're in a major hurry, in which case i wouldn't be trying to drywall a room for the first time. The ready mix that comes in boxes usually still needs water and mixing to be workable. A mixing drill can be very helpful here. You'll need tools to sand. Pole sander for the field and sponges for the corners. Something like 120 on first coat 150 on final. Yes sand between coats. Prefill any large gaps/holes with a quickset, where I am durabond in the brown bags is the best you can get for that, but it varies by region (Vancouver carpenter loves confill for this but i can't get that in my region). The smaller bags of sheetrock 45 or whatever would do ok too, better than all purpose for this purpose ,lol. Coat each side of your inside corners on different days, so you don't ruin one side working on the other.
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Oct 25, 2022 17:53
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Oct 25, 2022 18:32
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Jenkl posted:A bunch of thoughts: Thanks, yea I'm in no rush. This is going to be a multi-week endeavor of just hanging the drywall before even doing the taping and all the coats. I think the biggest confusion I have is with all the drywall compounds that exist. I was watching that Vancouver Carpenter but most of the compounds he uses I can't find locally.
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Oct 25, 2022 19:11
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c355n4 posted:Thanks, yea I'm in no rush. This is going to be a multi-week endeavor of just hanging the drywall before even doing the taping and all the coats. Yeah, its definitely annoying. So many types and regional variations. If you can find all purpose lite use it, it's good enough for all your steps. More thoughts: All purpose (regular) is much less common where i am, but I understand it is more popular in the US. It is heavier so harder to use, but has more adhesive in it and dries harder. It is better for taping (bedding) but is tougher to coat and sand. You can get taping mud and topping mos, which basically are more specialized versions of all purpose. Taping has more adhesives but less sandability, a step past all purpose. Topping has little adhesive but is smooth and easy to sand so great for finishing. So it's sort of a tradeoff between adhesion, hardness, and sandability. All purpose lite ticks most of the boxes pretty well, even if it isn't the best at any one job. Hence why i recommend it. Otherwise, you can grab one for taping and one for topping, picking from what is available near you (more adhesive good for taping, more sandability better for topping). Going all in on one type of mud has the added perk of letting you bed and do coat 1 at the same time. On top of that, you can get quick setting versions of mud. They chemically dry, and sand worse typically (though there's a range within the product). You should avoid this except for bedding mesh/fiber tapes, and for prefills. This is because quicksets typically have low adhesion but are very hard. Don't tape with this stuff (although VC has some good videos on adding glue to mud, it likely isn't needed for your job and would just complicated poo poo). There's likely some special optimal combo of muds you could use depending on exactly how much work there is to do, how much taping and prefilling to do, etc. Or you can just get a box of all purpose light and it will be good enough. Lastly, worry less about the brands and focus on the type, as that is more common across regions.
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Oct 25, 2022 19:31
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Inner Light posted:
Circling back to this. Plumbers came out, had to take three pieces out of the wall, but found the leak and fixed it. He did it with Pex and Shark Bites so... They also claimed their remediation team will come out and fix the drywall and baseboards that got removed, dry out the area and remove carpet. All covered under the home warranty. We'll see tomorrow if that's true. I have a feeling it's going to be a "narrator: they didn't..." moment but we'll see.
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Oct 25, 2022 19:40
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Did i read that right? Your professional plumber wants to(is) bury(ing) PEX shark bites behind finished drywall? I'm not sure how well founded the belief is, but as I understand it many would say that's some crazy bullshit what are they thinking?
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Oct 25, 2022 19:47
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Jenkl posted:Did i read that right? Your professional plumber wants to(is) bury(ing) PEX shark bites behind finished drywall? Yeah some of my googling says "it's fine when done correctly" ... so... IANAP though. edit: just to double check my work, this is PEX with SBs right? That's what I immediately took it for. 
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Oct 25, 2022 20:22
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c355n4 posted:I think the biggest confusion I have is with all the drywall compounds that exist. I was watching that Vancouver Carpenter but most of the compounds he uses I can't find locally. I use Durabond for the initial bedding of mesh tape or paper tape. Particularly Durabond 90 or 210, depending on the job. You get way more working time with the 210. The benefit of the Durabond is resistance to cracking, particularly with mesh tapes. Be sure to clean your tools immediately when done, not just soak them in a pail. There is an easy sand version as well with less aggregate, but as a tape coat your topping coat will cover most of this so you shouldn't have to sand a whole lot. The next coats are with USG All Purpose, the green lid. I thin it a little for the intermediate coats and then thin it a little more for the finishing coat. You can use this for a taping compound as well. I've never used (or even seen) topping compound here.
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Oct 25, 2022 20:24
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The robot vacuum seems to be doing an okay job so I think I'll keep it. It just has to be better than me never sweeping or mopping, so if it can do like 90% and I just have to touch up spots it misses/can't handle then that's a win in my book.
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Oct 25, 2022 21:24
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BonoMan posted:Yeah some of my googling says "it's fine when done correctly" ... so... IANAP though. Not a plumber, but that's just lazy. Not inherently wrong. Just lazy. He could have sweat some copper in there just as fast, it's not even hard to access
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Oct 26, 2022 01:37
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NomNomNom posted:Not a plumber, but that's just lazy. Not inherently wrong. Just lazy. 100% Would not pay for that as anything other than a quick fix, would never put that behind sheetrock.
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Oct 26, 2022 01:45
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I'll get another plumber to come fix it proper. Edit: I have a host of other plumbing needs anyway. There's no backing place for the tub spout, elbow/flex tubes under all the sinks and I need to find where that hot water heater saddle tap goes to. They hosed this house up good BonoMan fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 01:49
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Motronic posted:100% Would you have a different opinion if he used PEX fittings and crimped clamps instead of sharkbites?
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Oct 26, 2022 02:32
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Raenir Salazar posted:The robot vacuum seems to be doing an okay job so I think I'll keep it. It just has to be better than me never sweeping or mopping, so if it can do like 90% and I just have to touch up spots it misses/can't handle then that's a win in my book. 90% is all any of them do in my experience/research. It doesn’t replace manual cleaning but let’s you do it substantially less frequently, especially if you have fluffy pets.
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Oct 26, 2022 05:58
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SkunkDuster posted:Would you have a different opinion if he used PEX fittings and crimped clamps instead of sharkbites? 100%. Not opposed to mixing copper and PEX, just don't want to bury a fitting that's using an o-ring to stay watertight. The sharkbites baffle me because they aren't cheap. If I'm a pro I'm definitely crimping a ten cent ring instead of using a $8 fitting.
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Oct 26, 2022 12:42
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I think y'all are missing the most important part:BonoMan posted:All covered under the home warranty. That should explain just about everything. I'd put my money on the guy not even being a licensed plumber, but this isn't my realm of expertise so I don't know how good/lovely the work is. If in the days of most trades/professionals still having months-long backlogs and being able to name their price, I wouldn't put much stock in the work of people subsisting on home warranty jobs. Stop the leak and get the hell out of dodge. Use whatever you have on your truck that gets this done as quick as you can and move on to the next job. edit: MrAmazing posted:90% is all any of them do in my experience/research. It doesn’t replace manual cleaning but let’s you do it substantially less frequently, especially if you have fluffy pets. We have a dog that sheds a poo poo ton and hardwoods on the lower level. Having a robot vacuum is amazing (edit: though the dog would strongly disagree. He is decidedly not a fan, even though it's entirely his fault). DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 12:47
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NomNomNom posted:100%. Not opposed to mixing copper and PEX, just don't want to bury a fitting that's using an o-ring to stay watertight. For me sharkbites are great for quick fix until I can do the real thing, and before I close the wall up if I don't have the needed parts. Also if you are charging the person for the fitting and then straight time, they may not care how much it is ( not awesome, but there ya go).
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Oct 26, 2022 12:48
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DaveSauce posted:I think y'all are missing the most important part: Yeah it's a legit licensed plumbing co. But this did not seem like they were sending out their best guys. I hate home warranties (and recommend against them in the home buying thread) but we've gotten them on both our houses for the first year from the seller. Unsurprisingly we had a poor experience with our first one (different state) and never used them again. Just wanted to test this one out since we had it. Womp womp. BonoMan fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 13:09
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Yeahhhh home warranties aren't worth the paper they're printed on. Ever. They're better than nothing when the seller provides it, but only marginally. But one way to look at it is that you got a patch job to buy you time while you search for a real plumber, so as long as they didn't make things worse somehow this is better than paying a real plumber's emergency rates.
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Oct 26, 2022 13:13
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DaveSauce posted:We have a dog that sheds a poo poo ton and hardwoods on the lower level. Having a robot vacuum is amazing (edit: though the dog would strongly disagree. He is decidedly not a fan, even though it's entirely his fault). We have an elk hound, bred to have sufficient fur for chasing moose in the Norwegian winter. The robot vacuum is a lifesaver. The dog itself has on multiple occasions chased brown and black bears away from our camp sites in the northern Rockies but runs in terror from the vacuum.😞
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Oct 26, 2022 14:16
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SkunkDuster posted:Would you have a different opinion if he used PEX fittings and crimped clamps instead of sharkbites? Yes, but that wouldn't be a reasonable scenario. Why would you sweat on two copper to pex adapters and then crimp pex between them when you could just sweat two unions at either ends of a piece of copper pipe you're using to patch it?
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Oct 26, 2022 18:02
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Do you guys think this is mold on some wood in my basement? If so, should I be concerned? The PO who owned for two years admitted he didn’t keep up with running the dehumidifier as needed because he’d forget to empty the bucket for days at a time. I’ve resolved that with a pump so it can continuously run without stopping, though it’s currently off since temps are getting cold.  
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Oct 26, 2022 18:08
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Motronic posted:Yes, but that wouldn't be a reasonable scenario. Why would you sweat on two copper to pex adapters and then crimp pex between them when you could just sweat two unions at either ends of a piece of copper pipe you're using to patch it? What do you think would be a reasonable time length, with the wall open already and leak identified, to replace that PEX with copper? Yep places so far have quoted 2 hours + materials. Trying to sense of that is fair or not
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Oct 26, 2022 18:19
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We are talking about this one silly pipe right? 5 minutes for any journeyman+ plumber (or hell a handyman) with a few bucks in parts that are certainly on their truck. But most plumbers are going to try to charge you for their time to bring the truck out, etc.
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Oct 26, 2022 18:26
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BonoMan posted:What do you think would be a reasonable time length, with the wall open already and leak identified, to replace that PEX with copper? Yep places so far have quoted 2 hours + materials. Trying to sense of that is fair or not Ya, that's a minimum job fee, doesn't have anything to do with the time involved in performing the work. It's very typical, my company also has a two hour minimum on anything. 'Fair' is more of a philosophical question.
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Oct 26, 2022 18:32
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Tezer posted:Ya, that's a minimum job fee, doesn't have anything to do with the time involved in performing the work. It's very typical, my company also has a two hour minimum on anything. Yeah this is what my wife and I assumed as well.
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Oct 26, 2022 18:54
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I tried another stainless steel sink deep clean. sprayed a water/vinegar mix on, then baking soda, but there wasn't much fizzing (not nearly as much as last time). cleaned all that up, then used barkeeper's friend as well. I don't noticed any difference. The reason I had done this is because the area under the rubber feet of the grate was shinier than the rest of the sink, so I assumed that the area under the feet was how it's supposed to look. but maybe i'm wrong? In which case maybe I need to use a less diluted vinegar? kraus site says "Hard Water Solutions & Deep Cleaning If hard water deposits build up over time, we recommend using vinegar to neutralize the minerals and remove the deposits. Use a soft dishcloth saturated with vinegar to gently rub the sink surface, then rinse with water and towel dry." I do think I have some hard water, so maybe I just need to do use stronger vinegar. I think the one I used was half water half white vinegar. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 21:50
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BKF should have taken care of all but the most stubborn hard water stains. It oxalic acid and eats through calcium and lime pretty well. Is it possible the area under the feet is just less scratched up than the rest of the sink and thus looks shinier than the rest of the sink that may be scratched up more? You have a picture?
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Oct 26, 2022 22:09
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nwin posted:Do you guys think this is mold on some wood in my basement? If so, should I be concerned? I can't smell it, but no. Wood can get discolored for all sorts of reasons. Also if anything in that pic is gonna be moldy it'd be the insulation and that looks fine
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Oct 26, 2022 22:17
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skipdogg posted:BKF should have taken care of all but the most stubborn hard water stains. It oxalic acid and eats through calcium and lime pretty well. Is it possible the area under the feet is just less scratched up than the rest of the sink and thus looks shinier than the rest of the sink that may be scratched up more? You have a picture? yeah you read my mind, i think it's because the scratches dull the surface, so obviously the part under the rubber feet isn't scratched. is there something I could use to buff out the scratches to restore the finish? maybe a metal polish? btw on the kraus site it does mention BKF for dealing with rust stains. it worked fine for the few of those I had in the corners. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 22:35
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nwin posted:Do you guys think this is mold on some wood in my basement? If so, should I be concerned? The first pic is just dirt or maybe old mildew from when the lumber was outside at some point. You can see the marks where there were sticks or something that aren't dirty. The second one could be mold but looks more like bluestain or dirt or something to me.
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Oct 26, 2022 22:37
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I'd think if there were a mold problem you'd see it pretty heavily throughout the insulation too.
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Oct 26, 2022 23:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The first pic is just dirt or maybe old mildew from when the lumber was outside at some point. You can see the marks where there were sticks or something that aren't dirty. The second one could be mold but looks more like bluestain or dirt or something to me. Thanks for all the responses. I’ll cross that off my list.
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Oct 26, 2022 23:47
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actionjackson posted:yeah you read my mind, i think it's because the scratches dull the surface, so obviously the part under the rubber feet isn't scratched. is there something I could use to buff out the scratches to restore the finish? maybe a metal polish? btw on the kraus site it does mention BKF for dealing with rust stains. it worked fine for the few of those I had in the corners. It's the opposite, the are under the rubber feet has been polished smooth. Your stainless sink will have brush marks from the factory (tiny scratches). The rubber feet and the grit that gets under them wears those brush marks away. Don't worry about it.
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Oct 27, 2022 01:05
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nwin posted:Do you guys think this is mold on some wood in my basement? Yes nwin posted:If so, should I be concerned? No
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Oct 27, 2022 02:15
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NomNomNom posted:It's the opposite, the are under the rubber feet has been polished smooth. Your stainless sink will have brush marks from the factory (tiny scratches). The rubber feet and the grit that gets under them wears those brush marks away. ah ok that makes sense, thanks. would there be any reason to polish it?
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Oct 27, 2022 04:56
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So, my roof repair took an extra 400 board feet of lumber, apparently. And they're quoting me $4800 for the additional materials. 2x6 and 1x12, i believe. Does this sound in line with reality? Still doing my research and getting a PDF to scrutinize.
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Oct 27, 2022 16:19
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Deviant posted:So, my roof repair took an extra 400 board feet of lumber, apparently. Did they repair a poo poo load of rafters or replace older tongue and groove roof decking with 1x12s or what? With 400 feet I imagine you can see where it's being used in the attic. E: and I feel like that's a lot for the lumber, but I haven't bought long lengths of x6 or x12 in a while SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Oct 27, 2022 |
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Oct 27, 2022 16:31
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