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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Ok, I switched to R from RC and the furnace will switch on but the blower will not. I tried both having the white wire on O/B and W and that didn't seem to change anything.

You also moved the tab up to 1 wire? W is where you want it. See how your old picture confusingly says "conventional" and points to the middle letters? Those are your letters.

What was your old thermostat make and model? Are you sure the thermostat is what died?

24Vac I believe as well, not DC.

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Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


devicenull posted:

R and Rc were equivalent in the old setup, so it really didn't matter. That blue tab is probably going to act as a jumper, so you'd want to move the wire to R.

Red to white should give you 24v.

I'm also not sure you have the white wire in the right place - that should probably be going to W, rather then O/B. Unless you have a heat pump, you want to refer to the inner labels on the old picture, not the outer ones!

You can also go check the furnace end and see where the wires end up. Typically the circuit board is well labeled, or at the very least you can find a wiring diagram online.

Here is the board

From top to bottom
Y1 - Empty
Y/Y2 - The yellow wire goes to the condensation pump and the white wire goes to the outside and the AC unit
W/W1 - White Goes to thermostat W
W2 - Brown Wire goes to thermostat W2
R - Red goes to outside AC Unit
G - Green goes to thermostat G
C - Red goes to thermostat R

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Here is the board

From top to bottom
Y1 - Empty
Y/Y2 - The yellow wire goes to the condensation pump and the white wire goes to the outside and the AC unit
W/W1 - White Goes to thermostat W
W2 - Brown Wire goes to thermostat W2
R - Red goes to outside AC Unit
G - Green goes to thermostat G
C - Red goes to thermostat R

Look at this good post. Make and model of the unit?

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


H110Hawk posted:

Look at this good post. Make and model of the unit?

Sorry, meant to drop that before. Its a Trane 4txca024bc3hcba

I switched the two switch to one switch and now the furnance won't kick on at all. Prior to that I tried turning off the heat and just turning on the fan and the fan would not kick on. Will try and see what specifically makes the furnace light up now.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Its a Trane 4txca024bc3hcba

These model numbers look like your cat just sat down on the keyboard.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


H110Hawk posted:

These model numbers look like your cat just sat down on the keyboard.


Maybe there is a space in there somewhere?

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


ok yes now nothing is happening so I think I must have hosed something up. there used to be a couple little lights on the board that would sort of glow but now I'm getting nothing

Sorry, also saw someone ask about the make and model of the old thermostat
It is a https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-TH8320U1008-VisionPro-Thermostat-3-Heat-2-Cool-3911000-p

And I am not 100% certain it was the thermostat that died, but it is battery powered and the screen was completely dead even after changing the batteries. It was working as of a couple of months ago when we needed to use the AC.

Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Oct 24, 2022

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


I started watching a troubleshooting video, and wouldn't you know it, these things have a switch when you have the panel open? I closed up the furnace, made sure the switch was set to single wire on the harness, the white wire was on W, and everything seems to be working again! Thanks so much for everyones help troubleshooting this

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:


Maybe there is a space in there somewhere?

Oh I 100% believe it's accurate. They just are so absurd because it's meant to be used by a decoder ring to decipher all the features of the unit.

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I started watching a troubleshooting video, and wouldn't you know it, these things have a switch when you have the panel open? I closed up the furnace, made sure the switch was set to single wire on the harness, the white wire was on W, and everything seems to be working again! Thanks so much for everyones help troubleshooting this

:toot: thread success story. Congrats on the new thermostat.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


So in the future I should match the colors with the colors like they are now and just make sure the thermostat is programmed correctly? I'm fairly certain this is a 2 stage furnace but if it isn't and I set the thermostat that way what would it do? I need to get this thing its yearly servicing so maybe I'll just have the HVAC person verify my understanding of the capabilities while they're here.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

So in the future I should match the colors with the colors like they are now and just make sure the thermostat is programmed correctly? I'm fairly certain this is a 2 stage furnace but if it isn't and I set the thermostat that way what would it do? I need to get this thing its yearly servicing so maybe I'll just have the HVAC person verify my understanding of the capabilities while they're here.

That's the model number from the air conditioner - you'd need to find the sticker on the furnace part to tell what it is.

If it is two stage and it's not wired properly, worst case you don't get the seconds stage.

Can't hurt to have someone verify if they're already there!

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I started watching a troubleshooting video, and wouldn't you know it, these things have a switch when you have the panel open? I closed up the furnace, made sure the switch was set to single wire on the harness, the white wire was on W, and everything seems to be working again! Thanks so much for everyones help troubleshooting this

Yeah gotta close the door / tape the switch.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I started watching a troubleshooting video, and wouldn't you know it, these things have a switch when you have the panel open? I closed up the furnace, made sure the switch was set to single wire on the harness, the white wire was on W, and everything seems to be working again! Thanks so much for everyones help troubleshooting this

Did the same thing when I replaced my downstairs thermostat, drove myself crazy until I figured out my problem. Two years later I replaced the thermostat for my other unit, forgot about all that, and did it again for way too long before it hit me and I remembered from the last time

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


devicenull posted:

That's the model number from the air conditioner - you'd need to find the sticker on the furnace part to tell what it is.

If it is two stage and it's not wired properly, worst case you don't get the seconds stage.

Can't hurt to have someone verify if they're already there!

durp no wonder I was having trouble finding the drat thing even with the giant York sticker
https://www.york.com/residential-equipment/heating-and-cooling/gas-furnaces/tm8v_ds/tm8v-80-afue-two-stage-variable-speed-furnace

tater_salad posted:

Yeah gotta close the door / tape the switch.

first thing he did in the video was tape the switch. might print out a label and slap it on the front so I don't forget next time.

Again, thanks for everyones help figuring this out. I would have been annoyed as poo poo if I had to wait to call someone out when it not working was entirely my fault.

floWenoL
Oct 23, 2002

So I did something dumb and ended up with gouges on top of a bedside table:



Is this something that can be mostly covered up with wood fill sticks, e.g. this thing? Or do I need to try something else?

Also, should I try and lightly sand the rough edges of the gouges first?

I'm a noob with all things wood (and this isn't even really real wood AFAIK) so any advice would be appreciated!

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

that's a super thin veneer on particle board and the best you can do is replace it, but second-best is wood fill sticks yeah. You won't get it perfect. I suggest a doily or little fabric square or something, it'll look intentional.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Yeah you will have a hard time fixing that becuase it's not solid wood it's veneer over particle board. Best bet is some kind of wood fill and or black marker, or cover it with vinyl, or cloth square.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Wood dye pens might work, is that what a wood fill stick it?

Otherwise yeah cover it.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Progressively do more and more aggressive stuff so you know when you hit "good enough". So it might be:

Just color with a pen > Lightly sand and color > aggressively sand and color with multiple pens > wood filler + whole sand + solid paint

Basically don't create the opportunity to regret something until you know you've exhausted the options. You never know you might color it in, it still looks like poo poo, but you don't mind. That's totally fine!

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum
One walk-in closet in our house has a cat piss issue. We didn't get to it quick enough and it's got worse (I think a cat got locked in there for a few hours once and took a piss, and now it's a piss room! There's a litterbox right outside it!) and then another cat had the biggest vomit I've ever seen, in there too. So I used some anti-icky-poo on it, let it sit for a while and then and used a hoover wet vac on it twice with more anti-icky-poo in the soap dispenser. I also sprayed the affected bits of wall with anti-icky-poo and then wiped the walls with clorox wipes.

I then put lots of fans on it and it's not dry yet, sure, but... It seems to smell worse at this point. (cats are no longer allowed in there! making sure of it!)

It's a small area and I'm wondering if I should get someone in to put in new carpeting or something. Since it's my house I suppose I could do it myself but I'm not at all handy. How hard is it to rip up carpet and put more carpet down yourself? It's about 3-4 square meters.

Before cleaning, I went in there with a blacklight and saw the vom stain and a couple of cat piss stains too on the carpet, and about 4-5 marks on the wall just like a cat had pissed on it. I think the cat was actually pissing in the laundry basket that was in there, because the only piss stains on the carpet were straight lines on two of the four sides of the laundry basket. Would spraying the wall down be enough or do I need to repaint too?

redreader fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Oct 26, 2022

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

redreader posted:

One walk-in closet in our house has a cat piss issue. We didn't get to it quick enough and it's got worse (I think a cat got locked in there for a few hours once and took a piss, and now it's a piss room! There's a litterbox right outside it!) and then another cat had the biggest vomit I've ever seen, in there too. So I used some anti-icky-poo on it, let it sit for a while and then and used a hoover wet vac on it twice with more anti-icky-poo in the soap dispenser.

I then put lots of fans on it and it's not dry yet, sure, but... It seems to smell worse at this point. (cats are no longer allowed in there! making sure of it!)

It's a small area and I'm wondering if I should get someone in to put in new carpeting or something. Since it's my house I suppose I could do it myself but I'm not at all handy. How hard is it to rip up carpet and put more carpet down yourself? It's about 3-4 square meters.

I went in there with a blacklight and saw the vom stain and a couple of cat piss stains too on the carpet, and about 4-5 marks on the wall just like a cat had pissed on it. I think the cat was actually pissing in the laundry basket that was in there, because the only piss stains on the carpet were straight lines on two of the four sides of the laundry basket. Would spraying the wall down be enough or do I need to repaint too?

If it sat long enough and there was enough urine, it’s possible it soaked into the padding and perhaps underneath it. Not a huge deal with a concrete floor but more so with plywood.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
You need enzymatic cleaner and to replace anything you can replace. Carpet, padding, molding.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Enzymatic cleaners are good, replacing everything is better. My kitchen had a vaguely cat piss smell that got worse when we took up the laminate, way worse when we took up the linoleum under it, and finally went away when we replaced the subfloor.

Oh and we also gutted that corner so whatever was soaked into the wall went in the dumpster without even trying to save it.

There are worse smells you could have than old cat piss but not many, and most would similarly be solved with fire.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
My dewalt cordless drill's batteries are long dead. I could buy a new battery, but I'm considering getting a hex head -> chuck adapter for my makita driver instead. Are these at all worthwhile, and if so, do y'all have a recommendation for one to get?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

My dewalt cordless drill's batteries are long dead. I could buy a new battery, but I'm considering getting a hex head -> chuck adapter for my makita driver instead. Are these at all worthwhile, and if so, do y'all have a recommendation for one to get?

I think I’d put the money towards a Makita drill (or w/e your preferred battery ecosystem is). Or a new battery for the DeWalt.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Thanks, fair enough!

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Dewalt runs extra battery promos at big box stores pretty regularly. Example $200 gets 2 batteries plus your choice of tool:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...UkDX2az9US3q1I0

Need a new saw?

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
They also make a nifty little adapter so their newer "20v system" batteries can power the old 18v tools

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PremiumSupport posted:

They also make a nifty little adapter so their newer "20v system" batteries can power the old 18v tools

These are not worth using.

First of all, bare tools are cheap as poo poo on ebay because of the above posted types of deals, so just buy the new tools.

Secondly they have some sort of active electronics in them that kills your brand new batteries if you leave them on the adapter. They don't even have to be in a tool.

Thirdly something inside of them literally explodes when you run them hard. I've blown up one with a circ saw and a second one with a sawzall. It's a pop and then the adapter sounds like a maraca. Open it up and it's just a small amount of semiconductor and potting shrapnel.

Yes, I was using an official dewalt adapter, batteries and tools in all of these circumstances.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
This is what happens when they get the UL listing for explosive devices, a common mistake.

hooah
Feb 6, 2006
WTF?
We have this plastic sandbox that has a really lovely fabric cover. Even after treating it with Nikwax, it isn't really that waterproof. Plus, I have to prop it up with a spare concrete goose so water runs off, but that doesn't work that well and it ends up getting stretched out and accumulating huge pools of water anyway. What would be the best way to make a rain- and windproof (within normal conditions; not concerned about hurricanes or tornados) cover for this thing?

Picture for visual assistance:

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Plastic tarp of the appropriate dimensions.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Spare Concrete Goose would be a good username.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



See that's why I bought a turtle sandbox and just put some rocks on top so the wind wouldn't blow the cover off.

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal

withak posted:

Spare Concrete Goose would be a good username.

It is a windy day in the backyard, and you are a spare concrete goose

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

wesleywillis posted:

Plastic tarp of the appropriate dimensions.

Paired with some battens of a length slightly greater than the width of the sandbox to form an arch.

hooah
Feb 6, 2006
WTF?

wesleywillis posted:

Plastic tarp of the appropriate dimensions.

I thought these disintegrate fairly quickly if they're outside all the time? Particularly from the sun. But if not, this is at least a good base.

withak posted:

Paired with some battens of a length slightly greater than the width of the sandbox to form an arch.

Well, I learned a new word today. Neither Lowe's nor Home Depot's sites have anything that seem to be relevant. How would I attache the battens (slats?) to the tarp, and how would I secure the whole thing to the sandbox?

tangy yet delightful posted:

See that's why I bought a turtle sandbox and just put some rocks on top so the wind wouldn't blow the cover off.

We wanted something like this, but couldn't find one that wasn't tiny when we were shopping.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


The backdoor has a little bit of an overhang covering it and I'm guessing the posts holding it up have settled a little bit which is preventing the security door from fully opening. I'm not sure when any of this was done but given the size of the overhang I feel like the notched piece of wood isn't holding up a ton of weight. Should I be ok sanding down the notch further to let the door swing freely? There is a little under 3.5" of wood there that I could put maybe a 2x2 on to help brace it? Should I not really be worried? I'm not sure why it settled but its probably a minor amount. I'd bet the door just barely had enough space originally and the posts are on concrete footers.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

hooah posted:

Well, I learned a new word today. Neither Lowe's nor Home Depot's sites have anything that seem to be relevant. How would I attache the battens (slats?) to the tarp, and how would I secure the whole thing to the sandbox?

I was picturing them just wedged inside the sandbox and bowed upwards. I guess tie the tarp down with a rope or something.

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lol internet.
Sep 4, 2007
the internet makes you stupid
Ermm let me know if this should maybe be posted somewhere else.. woodworking?

Long story short, a year ago I got a contractor to build a fairly large deck. Towards the completion, I did raise some concerns that the footing/beams are not plumb, but they said it should be fine as long as it doesn't get worse.


Fast forward to a year later, it looks terrible, it's angled like 3-4 inches from 90 degrees. The whole deck building process with them was sort of a crapshoot. They had some complaints; they took forever to address them. Sometimes they just didn't respond to emails.

Anyway, I did email them about this a couple weeks ago, no answer of course. I'm going to call them, but I feel like this is getting not going to get anywhere.

So, what really are my options if I can't get them to resolve this? File a complaint with state contractor board? Small claims court?

There was no permit pulled, contractor told me he'd build a retaining wall and raise the height of the ground so the footings so it wouldn't be higher than 2 feet off the ground (it still is though, maybe 3-4 feet.)

Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/HDEXtPz

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