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IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Trip Report: I just took my print off the machine. I wanted to verify it works with a small project so I did some characters first. The plan is to do a pair of dragon wings that will use the entire height of my Saturn 2. So I want a known good print prior to starting a 20 hour print. So imagine my horror when I look at my plate and see yet again a quadrant is missing. But, oddly, there is no debris on the FEP. I printed 3 characters and a cauldron, and 3 bases. I see 3 bases, and 2 characters and a cauldron, so where did the 3rd character go? I find this strange so I take the plate down and look, and find this:



Turns out I was in such a rush that I forgot to move the character or accidently sent him to home and ended up with him boiling himself alive.

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Scipiotik
Mar 2, 2004

"I would have won the race but for that."

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Trip Report: I just took my print off the machine. I wanted to verify it works with a small project so I did some characters first. The plan is to do a pair of dragon wings that will use the entire height of my Saturn 2. So I want a known good print prior to starting a 20 hour print. So imagine my horror when I look at my plate and see yet again a quadrant is missing. But, oddly, there is no debris on the FEP. I printed 3 characters and a cauldron, and 3 bases. I see 3 bases, and 2 characters and a cauldron, so where did the 3rd character go? I find this strange so I take the plate down and look, and find this:



Turns out I was in such a rush that I forgot to move the character or accidently sent him to home and ended up with him boiling himself alive.

I believe that's known as a happy accident.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Scipiotik posted:

I believe that's known as a happy transporter accident.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Lt. Barclay's worst fear realized.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Forgot to post the carnival food I printed:



w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Forgot to post the carnival food I printed:





Who makes these again? Absolutely love them!

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





w00tmonger posted:

Who makes these again? Absolutely love them!

World Forge Miniatures makes them, link below. It is a little pricey it seems, I got the regular carnival set on a sale. I think the price will be pretty good around Black Friday. They have an evil carnival as well. They also have a tavern set.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-the-mirthlight-carnival-1-collection-205703

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


IncredibleIgloo posted:

Forgot to post the carnival food I printed:





at least you didn't accidentally teleport anyone into the buffet table this time.

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice
Anyone have recommendations for walls that are more outdoorsy - like shrubs and vine mixed together to make walls with a tree every now and then? I've got more caves, dungeons, and stonework than I can shake a stick at.

I'm basically trying to up my game with Frosthaven coming out. I made the hirst arts set for Gloomhaven and looking for some variation

https://hirstarts.com/gloom/gloom.html

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Numinous posted:

Anyone have recommendations for walls that are more outdoorsy - like shrubs and vine mixed together to make walls with a tree every now and then? I've got more caves, dungeons, and stonework than I can shake a stick at.

I'm basically trying to up my game with Frosthaven coming out. I made the hirst arts set for Gloomhaven and looking for some variation

https://hirstarts.com/gloom/gloom.html

How long did it take you to make that? It looks awesome but I don't know if I want to commit

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice

armorer posted:

How long did it take you to make that? It looks awesome but I don't know if I want to commit

I also have a good $500 worth of plastic of 3d printed openforge 2.0 stuff and the hirst arts stuff is about on par from a time perspective. Casting is fairly easy and you can pump out walls and tiles pretty fast. Gluing up the wall pieces was fun but it takes some time. Painting is about the same as the 3d printed stuff. I would say about 40 hours for the full kit as laid out in the link. I absolutely LOVE the weight and detail in the casted pieces. Far superior to 3d printed IMO.

Of course, I went wild and also made up-scaled versions of basically all the terrain modifiers and I have a whole cabinet of about 100 minis to replace the cardboard standins for the monsters. My play group jokingly refers to it as the sweat shop. Here, paint 8 of these all the same, as fast as possible!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Numinous posted:

I also have a good $500 worth of plastic of 3d printed openforge 2.0 stuff and the hirst arts stuff is about on par from a time perspective. Casting is fairly easy and you can pump out walls and tiles pretty fast. Gluing up the wall pieces was fun but it takes some time. Painting is about the same as the 3d printed stuff. I would say about 40 hours for the full kit as laid out in the link. I absolutely LOVE the weight and detail in the casted pieces. Far superior to 3d printed IMO.

Of course, I went wild and also made up-scaled versions of basically all the terrain modifiers and I have a whole cabinet of about 100 minis to replace the cardboard standins for the monsters. My play group jokingly refers to it as the sweat shop. Here, paint 8 of these all the same, as fast as possible!

That's not bad time-wise. I have most of the terrain printed and painted, but not the board components themselves. I've also been sourcing minis to replace the standins but haven't gotten very far with it. I just started a new playthrough with a new group though so this would be a good time to up my own game.

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice

armorer posted:

That's not bad time-wise. I have most of the terrain printed and painted, but not the board components themselves. I've also been sourcing minis to replace the standins but haven't gotten very far with it. I just started a new playthrough with a new group though so this would be a good time to up my own game.

If you're interested, this is the source I used for a lot of my choices of miniature:

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1726312/replacing-gloomhaven-standees-and-tokens-inexpensi

3d printing for minis has come a long way since I did this and I would probably try to print most on my resin printer if I had to do it again.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Numinous posted:

If you're interested, this is the source I used for a lot of my choices of miniature:

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1726312/replacing-gloomhaven-standees-and-tokens-inexpensi

3d printing for minis has come a long way since I did this and I would probably try to print most on my resin printer if I had to do it again.

Yeah I have an ender 3, which has been fine for terrain but I was never happy with the output from it for minis. I got the blacklist fantasy series 1 minis intending to use some of them as stand-ins, but that hasn't actually ever arrived. Hopefully QML posts another update about shipping on it soon and I actually can get my hands on it.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I know this isnt exactly 3d printing but I bought a laser cutter to start doing MDF terrain, and I made a little house in CAD that im really happy with so far :3: need to figure out a roof and poo poo but hell yeah, petite house



then when my laser cutter arrives in a few days, its cutting poo poo with the power of light time

queeb fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Nov 4, 2022

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Hell yeah, lasers are loving rad. We like using chipboard as a top layer to hide the finger joints and add some depth to our buildings. It's pretty cheap and cuts very easily.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



BlackIronHeart posted:

Hell yeah, lasers are loving rad. We like using chipboard as a top layer to hide the finger joints and add some depth to our buildings. It's pretty cheap and cuts very easily.

yeah it seems like doubling up on the outsides can add so much flavor and stuff. Do you sell your terrain? I figured i might take a shot at it if i can come up with cool poo poo, but nobody will want to buy my little square houses so these are just for me for now haha.

edit:

the roof should lift right off with this setup i think, this is with one panel hidden



i have no idea if fusion 360 is the right program for this but hey, its working ok

queeb fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Nov 4, 2022

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

queeb posted:

yeah it seems like doubling up on the outsides can add so much flavor and stuff. Do you sell your terrain? I figured i might take a shot at it if i can come up with cool poo poo, but nobody will want to buy my little square houses so these are just for me for now haha.

Adding layers definitely helps add character but it can a little unwieldy when using 1/8" MDF. We use this 46 pt chipboard to add some flavor like the blue banding around this planter.



We don't sell our designs, we use the laser for non-terrain projects to sell but making terrain for wargames is a nice secondary use! Combining a laser with a 3D printer can make some cool stuff.




quote:

i have no idea if fusion 360 is the right program for this but hey, its working ok

That's what I use since it's free license isn't too onerous but I only design the structural components of the building before bringing the exported DXF files into Illustrator and adding engraving lines. That's mostly due to me having way more experience with Adobe products over Fusion, admittedly.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I think that's my plan too, to import the dxf to illustrator, but ive never used illustrator before so that's a whole new ballgame on how to get engraving lines and stuff on. Fun to learn as I go though!



i added some fun to the front, the 2nd layer really spices it up, wow.

also drat dude that tree is amazingly good. And the dish, man. So much cool stuff i need to look in to.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Using illustrator for this stuff is really quick to pick up. You'll be proficient in no time.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

queeb posted:

I think that's my plan too, to import the dxf to illustrator, but ive never used illustrator before so that's a whole new ballgame on how to get engraving lines and stuff on. Fun to learn as I go though!



i added some fun to the front, the 2nd layer really spices it up, wow.

also drat dude that tree is amazingly good. And the dish, man. So much cool stuff i need to look in to.

Hell yeah, you're definitely on your way, good stuff!

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

queeb posted:

then when my laser cutter arrives in a few days, its cutting poo poo with the power of light time

I'm sure you are being safe about it, but just in case check out these two videos on hobby laser cutters:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLndmjebY9c

the tl;dr is that cutters without enclosures are inherently unsafe due to possible reflections
the 'safety glasses' that come with the cheap models are frequently fake and give no protection
and a ton of materials that you would cut give off toxic gasses so you really need some sort of vent/filter system
oh also laser cutters are big fire hazards cause burning things is their whole point

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



i went with a glowforge basic to start, i figured if i cant pay it off via doing hobby sales then its not worth going for something even bigger and better haha.

Edit:



H O U S E

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

queeb posted:

i went with a glowforge basic to start, i figured if i cant pay it off via doing hobby sales then its not worth going for something even bigger and better haha.

Edit:



H O U S E

What are your plans for painting? I was originally laser cutting my Warhammer terrain, but I wasn't happy with how the wood was absorbing the paint, so I switched to 3D printing for terrain.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Chainclaw posted:

What are your plans for painting? I was originally laser cutting my Warhammer terrain, but I wasn't happy with how the wood was absorbing the paint, so I switched to 3D printing for terrain.

I think im just going to engrave a pattern right on it and keep it unpainted, but i'll proabbly attempt a paint on one at some point.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

queeb posted:

I think im just going to engrave a pattern right on it and keep it unpainted, but i'll proabbly attempt a paint on one at some point.

I was super excited by laser cut terrain, I cut and assembled so much stuff like this:



Then I played a game with it and hated it. It was a huge 180, I was so excited before I played the game, but that pile of unpainted wood on the table felt so bad to me.

I tried to paint some, and the wood just absorbs the paint in a way that sucks, so I gave up.

I thought about switch to acrylic, because that paints much easier, but I didn't know of a good way to assemble and glue it together. The glue for the acrylic works weird. That would probably be what I would try if I wanted to keep laser cutting the terrain. I think painted this stuff would look real nice.

Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 4, 2022

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



yeah that makes me wonder what these guys use to paint:

https://warsen.al/

they sell it in mdf but maybe the painted models they use are acrylic or something.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

queeb posted:

yeah that makes me wonder what these guys use to paint:

https://warsen.al/

they sell it in mdf but maybe the painted models they use are acrylic or something.

I spray primed, and it just got absorbed into the wood in a way that felt real bad. I bet there's some step there I missed that those sellers did, maybe some sprayed clear coat before spraying the initial primer paint layer?

Also it could be the base material, as well. I used Glowforge's draftboard. That looks different. So maybe if you source the right kind of MDF it will be easier to laser cut.

The gotcha to sourcing MDF is you need to really verify that it's laser cut safe (and the seller isn't lying). Some MDF may have filler in it that isn't laser safe and is poisonous when vaporized. Other MDF might not be as uniform, so the same strength laser across might cut all the way through in some parts and not others.

Luckily with so many people laser cutting, you can find laser cut safe MDF, you just gotta be a little careful in buying it. Places like Inventables specifically sell material for laser cutting, for example https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials/wood-mdf/mdf

Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Nov 4, 2022

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Chainclaw posted:

I was super excited by laser cut terrain, I cut and assembled so much stuff like this:



Then I played a game with it and hated it. It was a huge 180, I was so excited before I played the game, but that pile of unpainted wood on the table felt so bad to me.

I tried to paint some, and the wood just absorbs the paint in a way that sucks, so I gave up.

I thought about switch to acrylic, because that paints much easier, but I didn't know of a good way to assemble and glue it together. The glue for the acrylic works weird. That would probably be what I would try if I wanted to keep laser cutting the terrain. I think painted this stuff would look real nice.

Did you try a layer of varnish or poly on the wood and then priming it? Or a wood sealer? Using a wood sealer and then applying acrylic paint is what a lot of us in the model ship world do.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

queeb posted:

yeah that makes me wonder what these guys use to paint:

https://warsen.al/

they sell it in mdf but maybe the painted models they use are acrylic or something.

The site calls them "color printed", and one of the photos on the landing page makes it look like they're done before the laser cutting happens. It could be a decal?

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Did you try a layer of varnish or poly on the wood and then priming it? Or a wood sealer? Using a wood sealer and then applying acrylic paint is what a lot of us in the model ship world do.

That's probably the way to go, I'll have to find some to test

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



so im not just posting mdf stuff, i've been printing a ton of other stuff too:





i painted this



and these



oh and this



but now i wanna play with LASERS

boneration
Jan 9, 2005

now that's performance
Just won a laser engraver/cutter in a raffle and now I'm terrified to actually set up and use it.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

boneration posted:

Just won a laser engraver/cutter in a raffle and now I'm terrified to actually set up and use it.

What's the model?

boneration
Jan 9, 2005

now that's performance

BlackIronHeart posted:

What's the model?

Pergear Laserstorm L5 Pro. I don't know if that's a reputable manufacturer or what; I'm ignorant of all things laser.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

boneration posted:

Pergear Laserstorm L5 Pro. I don't know if that's a reputable manufacturer or what; I'm ignorant of all things laser.

I don't know if it's a reputable manufacturer either but there are some things to really be aware of with these open frame diode lasers, there are some very real safety concerns. I'm not saying 'Don't use it' but I am saying 'Educate yourself before using it'. All lasers used for hobby crafting work by burning poo poo with radiation that can blind you, full stop. You've got 3 potential issues when lasering stuff:

- Causing a fire
- Inhaling dangerous/toxic fumes
- Blinding living creatures

Check out this video for safety issues that include the three above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU

If nothing else, you'll want to get some sort of enclosure and fume extraction set up if you're going to be using this thing. Don't let kids/pets near it and know what you can safely laser and what you can't. Don't laser anything containing vinyl. Don't trust any no-name, cheap laser safety glasses to actually protect your eyes, trust a metal enclosure to protect your eyes. Don't walk away from the machine while it's operating in case of fire.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Will the Snapmaker Artisan be a safe laser system, for those that are familiar with it?

https://us.snapmaker.com/products/s...HQaApBREALw_wcB

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Will the Snapmaker Artisan be a safe laser system, for those that are familiar with it?

https://us.snapmaker.com/products/s...HQaApBREALw_wcB

Most of the 3d printing channels I've seen use the snapmaker products say that while they do succeed in fitting one machine with a variety of tooling into a small space, it's not as good as the dedicated tools themselves, usually. Whether or not that fits your use case is up to you. I think the main good thing is that it's got an enclosure that (presumably) blocks the laser's wavelength from getting out and has a little fan in the back. If you ducted the output of that fan to a window you'd probably be good. It's not as safe as an enclosed laser with interlocks that would turn it off when opening the top, but it's built to be a tool that does everything.

Hexibase got a snapmaker recently and made a new version of a retro style table top radio. His laser module is 1.6 Watts compared to the 10 Watt one you linked, so he just used it to engrave:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPJnyzG0eg4

Also, if you're going to be doing a lot of cutting a bigger laser isn't a bad idea, the snapmaker kinds like that can cut stuff but aren't as powerful as a CO2 laser. Like the ubiquitous K40 models that have been sold for 10+ years. We were talking about lasers in the main 3d printing thread a couple of weeks ago:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3973815&pagenumber=225&perpage=40#post526854316

boneration
Jan 9, 2005

now that's performance

BlackIronHeart posted:

there are some very real safety concerns.

Yeah I'm rapidly discovering that. Watched those two videos upthread and was kind of surprised that these things are advertised as being so carefree. Looks like I got some shopping and reading to do before I bust out some lasery goodness.

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bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

boneration posted:

Yeah I'm rapidly discovering that. Watched those two videos upthread and was kind of surprised that these things are advertised as being so carefree. Looks like I got some shopping and reading to do before I bust out some lasery goodness.

Yeah it's really god drat wild that some of that poo poo is even allowed to exist. At a very basic level, it's a laser cutting things. You are a thing. One wrong angle and that laser has no qualms about cutting a different thing.

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