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tidal wave emulator posted:My local club had a Falklands War themed group build, the culmination of which was a club competition this evening. I came first place with my just-finished Starling Models 1/700 HMS Glamorgan. It was my first resin kit, which was an interesting challenge (lots of superglue mishaps), and I made a scratch-built base, stretched-sprue antennae and had to do a lot of photoetch - the best part was probably the crazy-intricate radar array. I also used some of Starling Models' 3D printed 1/700 royal navy figures and posed them on the deck. You're an absolute lunatic for building that radar array. E: plus pics for accidental snipe
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Nov 2, 2022 21:25
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grassy gnoll posted:You're an absolute lunatic for building that radar array. It's the highlight of the model for me - I was concerned it was going to be really difficult to make but it was actually a super logical design:  Folding the centre parts butterfly style into V-shapes  Attach them face-down onto the front of the radar array and fix in the resin base  Carefully align and glue down the back of the array 
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Nov 2, 2022 21:44
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tidal wave emulator posted:My prize is that I get to choose the theme for next year's group build, so I've got to think up something good now! Those are some amazing builds. So how about a Gulf War theme for the next one?
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Nov 2, 2022 21:55
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tidal wave emulator posted:My prize is that I get to choose the theme for next year's group build, so I've got to think up something good now! Conflicts in subsaharan Africa since 1950, a vast amount of subjects and a lot of interesting schemes that aren't just grey jets and olive drab tanks.
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Nov 3, 2022 02:41
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Farm equipment at war, from Ukraine to Ukraine. (The first technical was a horse drawn carriage in Ukraine before the Russian revolution. Someone mounted a Gatling gun to the thing.)
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Nov 3, 2022 03:34
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WW2, but only people named Fred. More seriously, how about things that never saw real use, weird rear end prototypes, production models for wars that ended too soon, and cancelled projects?
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Nov 3, 2022 05:41
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tidal wave emulator posted:I was concerned it was going to be really difficult to make but it was actually a super logical design: 
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Nov 3, 2022 07:24
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I found a crapkit candidate. This was $5 including delivery from Aliexpress. Turns out there are a bunch of small ( ) arms in 1/6 scale. Even though they're dirt cheap, they seem to be molded pretty well and come molded in different colours if you don't feel like painting them.
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Nov 4, 2022 23:48
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Charliegrs posted:Those are some amazing builds. Gervasius posted:Conflicts in subsaharan Africa since 1950, a vast amount of subjects and a lot of interesting schemes that aren't just grey jets and olive drab tanks. Blue Footed Booby posted:WW2, but only people named Fred. FrozenVent posted:Farm equipment at war, from Ukraine to Ukraine. I've got a few months to think it over, but I'm drawn to something broad enough that it can give everyone in the club a subject they would be happy building - e.g. War in the Pacific or Vietnam War would both give quite a lot of variety. We've got two other GBs planned for next year - the first is an 'oldschool airfix' build, where you have to choose a pre-2006 airfix kit (the year they were bought by their current owners Hornby and started improving their tooling) and have to paint it with the ol' hairy stick (no airbrushes). Era-appropriate aftermarket and oldschool scratch-building skills are permitted. The summer GB will be D-Day, I'm currently leaning towards building HMS Warspite for that as it fired the opening rounds of the Normandy landings.
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Nov 5, 2022 00:57
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I'm inclined to suggest 1/144 aircraft. I love that scale. You can get really good results with good detail (depends on the kit though) and they save on valuable display space. BRENGUN SBD-3 A much more detailed cockpit than I would have expected.
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Nov 5, 2022 01:06
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I could definitely be down for a 1/144 build shut up sym
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Nov 5, 2022 02:58
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mllaneza posted:I'm inclined to suggest 1/144 aircraft. I love that scale. You can get really good results with good detail (depends on the kit though) and they save on valuable display space. Having recently done a 1/144 mosquito for my rail layout, i was surprised at how well the kit went together in my extremely amateurish opinion. Here it is mid way through, man those details get filled in with paint real quick!  
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Nov 5, 2022 06:07
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Ensign Expendable posted:I found a crapkit candidate. This was $5 including delivery from Aliexpress. Turns out there are a bunch of small ( I've got this one in a box somewhere, along with a bunch of the others I also got from Aliexpress, I could be in for that. Could do everyone with the same SVT-40, or it could be a pick your gun model from the catalogue for variety.
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Nov 5, 2022 06:17
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tidal wave emulator posted:Thanks! Here's all the club members' entries to the group build/competition These are all rad as gently caress
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Nov 5, 2022 09:25
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I'd never really encountered 144 scale until this year's Scot Nats where I was chatting to the guy on the 144 SIG table for ages - they had an incredible selection of subjects and I had no idea there was such variety. It's a rabbit hole I could very easily find myself falling down if I'm not careful, as I stick pretty solidly to 1/72 and 1/700 at the moment purely because otherwise I'll run out of stash space.
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Nov 5, 2022 11:14
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Fors Yard posted:Maschinen Krieger S.F.3.D doesn't get much mention here but I've been putting together some new and old models. Maschinen Krieger is a major reason I got back into the hobby. If you get a chance to pick up some of the gacha-nen capsule kits they are cheap and fun to work with. I have a Fliege model that I'm slowly building a piece of recovered space junk for it to inspect. 
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Nov 5, 2022 11:42
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NTRabbit posted:I've got this one in a box somewhere, along with a bunch of the others I also got from Aliexpress, I could be in for that. Variety is the spice of life, let's do any 1/6 scale gun.
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Nov 5, 2022 15:08
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Ensign Expendable posted:Variety is the spice of life, let's do any 1/6 scale gun. I got mine from the 4DModel Store on Aliexpress, but they look common on ebay as well, there's 30 or 40 different guns on there from WW1 and 2 through cold war to the latest, small SMGs up to crew served heavy MGs
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Nov 5, 2022 16:52
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For any Phoenix area goons, I think Modelzona is today in the east valley.
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Nov 5, 2022 18:46
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mllaneza posted:I'm inclined to suggest 1/144 aircraft. I love that scale. You can get really good results with good detail (depends on the kit though) and they save on valuable display space. A decent amount of what I've built has been 1:144 because it's a relatively cheap scale and easy to come by, although it kinda sucks for some smaller vehicles such as WW2 era fighters. Good for passenger aircraft, modern fighters and bombers though.
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Nov 5, 2022 20:40
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What’s the current go to 3D printer for scale Modelling which isn’t crazy top of the range money?
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Nov 6, 2022 12:23
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I've always been curious about ship building with all the rigging, etc. What would be a good model to try out? I've done tabletop miniatures, gundam and some dollhouse kits, to give some idea of where I'm at. Also UK based if that would be relevant for stores.
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Nov 6, 2022 14:40
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Southern Heel posted:What’s the current go to 3D printer for scale Resin or fdm? What size stuff do you want to print? If you are only going to print smaller stuff but need a lot of detail the Anycubic Photon mono 4k is absolutely wonderful. High detail, easy to print on, small and compact, and under 200 right now. Highly recommend it, have used it. Elegoo Saturn 2 would be my recommendation if you need a lot of production and size, but that is 600. https://www.anycubic.com/collections/halloween/products/photon-mono-4k
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Nov 7, 2022 03:15
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Scion3872 posted:I've always been curious about ship building with all the rigging, etc. What would be a good model to try out? I've done tabletop miniatures, gundam and some dollhouse kits, to give some idea of where I'm at. Also UK based if that would be relevant for stores. Like wood model or plastic? Honestly step one is figuring out a subject you love and will stick with for a while, especially if you are talking wood, because it's a long road before getting to the rigging. Vanguard Models in the UK is a very new company, and all new designs so none of the old 'legacy' issues with wood ship models, and he sells a good number of different models targeted at novices to the hobby. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product-category/vanguard-model-kits/ To better educate yourself, have a look at modelshipworld.com (free to register) and pretty much any question you can think of will already be answered on there somewhere (search function is your friend!). If you have specific questions feel free to ask here, there are a few of us who have done wooden ships with rigging here.
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Nov 7, 2022 04:49
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Resin or fdm? What size stuff do you want to print? If you are only going to print smaller stuff but need a lot of detail the Anycubic Photon mono 4k is absolutely wonderful. High detail, easy to print on, small and compact, and under 200 right now. Highly recommend it, have used it. Elegoo Saturn 2 would be my recommendation if you need a lot of production and size, but that is 600. 1:152 and 1:76 so pretty small I guess. After the printer what should I realistically budget for? I.e resin, washer, curing station, consumables? Thank you!
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Nov 7, 2022 13:21
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The Locator posted:Like wood model or plastic? Honestly step one is figuring out a subject you love and will stick with for a while, especially if you are talking wood, because it's a long road before getting to the rigging. Thanks! I'll take a look at those and get a better idea.
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Nov 7, 2022 13:49
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Southern Heel posted:1:152 and 1:76 so pretty small I guess. After the printer what should I realistically budget for? I.e resin, washer, curing station, consumables? You can build a curing station on the cheap with a plastic bucket and a UV LED strip glued in a spiral around the inside of the bucket. If you want to fancy it up, you can get a cheap solar powered rotating jewelry display stand to put your print on so it rotates during curing. The UV lights provide enough "solar power" to run the display stand. For washing, there are a lot of effective methods. Isopropyl Alcohol and Denatured Alcohol both work well. I started with IPA and switched to DNA because DNA is cheaper and it doesn't smell as bad as IPA to me, but that's a personal preference. I also use DNA for general cleanup of the tools, build plate, resin vat, and whatever else gets resin on it. Acetone is a very effective cleaner, but can soften and eat away at resins if they are left to soak for too long. There is also some science about how acetone removes water molecules and leaves your print very dry, which is a good thing. I do the initial wash with DNA in a pickle bucket, then follow it up with a 10-15 minute run in a heated ultrasonic cleaner (82c/180f) with a mix of Simple Green and tap water. The heated bath allows you to easily pop off the supports. I take the print to the sink and wash off the simple green, then do a final wash with a quick dip and swish in a pickle bucket filled with acetone. Its handy to have a cheap, long handled, 1" paint brush that can resist the solvents to scrub your prints in the first wash stage. The disposals I use the most are latex gloves (or nitrile) and paper towels. If you don't have an air compressor, some cans of compressed air would come in handy to blow the part dry between each cleaning stage. Lastly, I upgraded from a regular power strip to one with four switched outlets so I can individually power the curing bucket, 3D printer, modified heater inside the printer, and ultrasonic cleaner. As I mentioned, there are many effective cleaning methods. That's just an example of how I do it. Other people will have other methods. Try things out and find what works best for you. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Nov 7, 2022 |
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Nov 7, 2022 14:32
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Also, if not onvious, sla printing, curing, and cleaning need to be done in a well ventilated area.
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Nov 7, 2022 16:33
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Okay, I'm mostly done with a MODEROID Aliens Power Loader, and I need a sanity check on whether I'm just dumb, this is badly designed, or I'm missing something obvious. How the gently caress do I stretch these hollow rubber pipes onto pegs as wide as their outer layer without shredding them?
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Nov 9, 2022 13:00
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Okay, I'm mostly done with a MODEROID Aliens Power Loader, and I need a sanity check on whether I'm just dumb, this is badly designed, or I'm missing something obvious. Warm the pipes up to make them softer? Sand down the pegs a bit? Use brute force and slip and smash the entire thing into little bits?
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Nov 9, 2022 19:45
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Use some mineral oil or soap on the peg to lubricate it a little? Also, I think someone built it in the gunpla thread so could ask there for advise as well.
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Nov 9, 2022 20:38
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Yeah like others said, warming up the pipe in some hot water should do the trick. It's a tactic used for basically any pipe that needs to go over a tight fitting whether it be for cars, or liquid cooling setups for PCs. Also I have pretty good luck fitting wheels onto my models using water based lubricant so it might help putting a little of that on the peg. You can find it at your local pharmacy in the family planning/ modelling aisle.
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Nov 9, 2022 21:53
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This water based lubricant is the one I've found works well for those tight fits.
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Nov 9, 2022 22:45
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My airbrush needle has never moved smoother.
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Nov 9, 2022 23:16
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JuffoWup posted:Use some mineral oil or soap on the peg to lubricate it a little? Also, I think someone built it in the gunpla thread so could ask there for advise as well. This was the post on top of the page when I loaded the thread, I’d forgotten which thread this was when I glanced back at my phone and oooooh boy.
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Nov 10, 2022 20:38
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Tried my hand with PE parts for the first time today. I have Duco Plastic Model Cement - it's very blobby, and it's probably not what I'd want to use, right?
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Nov 12, 2022 00:12
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FPyat posted:Tried my hand with PE parts for the first time today. I have Duco Plastic Model Cement - it's very blobby, and it's probably not what I'd want to use, right? It won't work at all. Plastic cement work by melting and welding the plastic joints together. It won't have any effect on the metal. You'll want to stick with a CA glue, aka krazy glue. If you want a step up from that, 2-part epoxies will grant a stronger joint. Beyond that Roket Card Glue, or Ultra Glue, or Gator Grip are nice too, as they provide a slightly more flexible joint than CA, so there's less chance of a part pinging off if you brush against it. Even for plastic, you'll probably want to ditch that tube cement. Go for something like Tamiya Extra Thin or Plast-I-Weld. Much less mess, easier to apply, and a little goes a long way. Ammo also has an interesting product in Medium Density Plastic Cement. Thinner than the tube stuff, but thicker than most bottled plastic cements. Perfect for when you need to apply some cement in an odd spot, and you need it to stay liquid for longer while you manipulate a part into place.
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Nov 12, 2022 00:25
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The Duco did successfully stick the PE parts to the plastic when congealed. Not something I want to use again, of course.
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Nov 12, 2022 00:31
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Just noticed that Central Hobbies is slated to close in May 2023. Any Vancouver goons should keep and eye on them to see if they have some good sales as they get closer to shuttering. They're mainly about the train stuff, but there's a whole lot more there that any hobbyist can use.
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Nov 12, 2022 08:34
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FPyat posted:The Duco did successfully stick the PE parts to the plastic when congealed. Not something I want to use again, of course. The plastic model glue melts part of the model. If that happens t let your metal piece sink into the medium then it's not that he's sticking to it, it's that melting a new product can drag in unrelated items.
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Nov 12, 2022 08:45
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