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alnilam posted:A washing machine refurbisher I bought a machine from once told me, "first thing i do when I get a machine in, is bypass the drat lid switch. Just don't stick your arm in there." Bypassing the switch on a washer was the first homeowner type thing I ever did. Granted, it was on a friend's washer.
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Nov 12, 2022 16:35
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I just leave the lid closed when I run the washer.
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Nov 12, 2022 16:40
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El Mero Mero posted:I've got a one inch thick plate of steel that's 16" long that i need to take an inch off of. Would a regular angle grinder do the trick or would that be an exercise in futility? You need a bandsaw if this needs to be a straight cut. An angle grinder would do it eventually but you’d also end up ruining the heat treat along the cut face. You could try a hacksaw, it would take forever but would be pretty straight.
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Nov 12, 2022 17:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Drills also have adjustable chucks that can take a wider variety of bits, while drivers are stuck using bits that can be fitted to a 1/4" hex head. So if you want to drill holes bigger than 3/8" or so, you'll still need a drill.    
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Nov 12, 2022 17:44
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welp Though I did have the impression that forstner bits at least were kinda hard to use freehanded.
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Nov 12, 2022 20:26
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There's a bit more wiggle to them in my experience, but they're good enough for pretty much everything except woodworking or finish work.
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Nov 12, 2022 21:04
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I've got a plastic waterproof tub of dry but mould covered items, mostly books. Is there some kind of aerosol or gas or something I could use, that I could spray into the container, to create an environment that the mould will die off in, when left sealed for a while? I mean, I'm cognisant that I don't want a tub of poison gas sitting in my basement, I was hoping for maybe something inert that mould can't survive in. Or does mould not work that way? It survives without oxygen, doesn't it? :/ Hyperlynx fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Nov 14, 2022 |
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Nov 13, 2022 23:34
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Depending on how moldy they are, some time In direct sunlight will help.
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Nov 13, 2022 23:50
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wesleywillis posted:Depending on how moldy they are, some time In direct sunlight will help. Unfortunately that's not really that viable for me. I've only got a small balcony to work with, and it's also raining on and off lately. My place also doesn't get a lot of direct sunlight either :/
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Nov 14, 2022 01:07
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Hyperlynx posted:I've got a plastic waterproof tub of dry but mould covered items, mostly books. Is there some kind of aerosol or gas or something I could use, that I could spray into the container, to create an environment that the mould will die off in, when left sealed for a while? Dehumidifier would be where I'd start. That's a tough one, because even something like ozone isn't going to penetrate between pages.
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Nov 14, 2022 01:23
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If they're dry, wipe them down with a damp rag and some Lysol. If they're wet, put them in the smallest room or closet that you have that will aloso fit a UV lamp and a dehumidifer. Afterwards, fog them with Lysol.
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Nov 14, 2022 03:09
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:don't listen to the naysayers, it'll take 30-60minutes and maybe a 5-pack of zip discs. A big part of the problem is keeping the disk perfectly straight, if you flex it inside the slot even slightly it can shatter. The thicker the plate, the less wiggle room you have. 1" is no wiggle room at all. Another part of the problem is that a 4 1/2" wheel on an angle grinder only has a bit over an inch of cutting depth before you're up against the arbor, so you'll be deeeeeep into that slot with just the bottom of the wheel getting through, with loads and loads of friction working against you. I think it's possible but if you've never done it before I think it'll take a looong time and I really don't like the risk of shattering a cutting wheel. It's just not the right tool for the job. Lawnie posted:You need a bandsaw if this needs to be a straight cut. An angle grinder would do it eventually but you’d also end up ruining the heat treat along the cut face. He's cutting a slab of steel for his fireplace backer, so I don't think heat treat is an issue. Following a cut for 18" with a hacksaw won't work, so he'd have to make a ton of side cuts to cut chunks away. It's... a lot of cutting. The right thing to cut it with is a steel cutting bandsaw as you suggested; or, a cutting torch or plasma cutter.
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Nov 14, 2022 03:32
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PainterofCrap posted:If they're dry, wipe them down with a damp rag and some Lysol. It's a box full of damp (some completely saturated) stuff that, so far, I've been hanging up to dry in my apartment, with windows and curtains open, and then putting in the box when they're dry. I guess there's no easy way to deal with the mould, and I'm just going to have to manually wipe em all down with disinfectant, huh?
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Nov 14, 2022 04:54
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Leperflesh posted:Another part of the problem is that a 4 1/2" wheel on an angle grinder only has a bit over an inch of cutting depth before you're up against the arbor, so you'll be deeeeeep into that slot with just the bottom of the wheel getting through, with loads and loads of friction working against you. If it’s only got an inch and change of cut depth it won’t even reach all the way through the plate once it wears down a bit.
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Nov 14, 2022 04:58
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Hyperlynx posted:It's a box full of damp (some completely saturated) stuff that, so far, I've been hanging up to dry in my apartment, with windows and curtains open, and then putting in the box when they're dry. No, do what painter suggested. A dehumidifier will use electricity to suck the water out, then UV is the great equalizer - nothing survives. If you have to pick one thing to do go rent (or buy) a dehumidifier tomorrow to get the process started. You can at least stop the damage. From there pull on a dust mask ( n95 if you have it) and go outside with your now bone dry stuff and fan the pages if they will fan. Put a fan behind you if you want. This will at least knock down whatever is loosey goosey on the surface. Or don't wear a mask, I've got the asthma and mildew makes me wheezy. From there you can start on killing. UV will disinfect any surface it can touch. Lysol in a aerosol can will soak in. Set stuff on their spines to try to fan out the pages and hit it like it's a low-scary spider. Not a DIE NOW YOU WILL BE THE POISON scary spider. Repeat daily until the funk dissipates. Make sure to keep it dry. Just wear gloves or something, that much lysol will dry out your skin something fierce. Or consider the books write offs.
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Nov 14, 2022 05:40
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Khizan posted:If it’s only got an inch and change of cut depth it won’t even reach all the way through the plate once it wears down a bit. They make tools that help with that.
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Nov 14, 2022 05:43
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H110Hawk posted:No, do what painter suggested. A dehumidifier will use electricity to suck the water out, then UV is the great equalizer - nothing survives. If you have to pick one thing to do go rent (or buy) a dehumidifier tomorrow to get the process started. You can at least stop the damage. Hm... From a drying point of view, I don't have a room I could use. My place is tiny. You reckon it would work to literally use a box, though? I'd probably have to go in several batches either way, to ensure that the stuff is exposed to the air and, but I'm already doing that with the washing line... I likewise don't have enough room that I could splay out all the books and expose them to the UV (or, well, the dehumidifying for that matter). Unless I set up another box with a UV lamp in it (stacked on top?) and also do that in batches. Then each batch I take out the the UV box I shake out outside, wipe down each page with a touch of disinfectant and then put them in another box, for holding, and do the same to stuff in the holding box until it's ready for a storage box? Space is really, really tight, that's a big limiting factor here  . Would it even work to put a dehumidifier or a UV lamp in a box?
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Nov 14, 2022 06:01
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Do you have a literal closet? Dump all your clothes in a heap on the floor and close the closet door? Uv is secondary, dryness is king. The mildew won't multiply (as much) once dry so focus on that. You can put it all in your shower with the curtain / door closed and the toilet lid down. Don't out the dehumidifier in a literal box I think. That gut checks unsafe but I can't articulate why. We'll go with... Heat. Or is space more constrained than that? Do you have a friend who can help?
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Nov 14, 2022 06:40
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H110Hawk posted:Do you have a literal closet? Dump all your clothes in a heap on the floor and close the closet door? I do have a closet, but it's carpeted. Putting wet, mouldy stuff on my carpet seems like a Bad Idea. Tbh the putting a dehumidifier or UV light in a box doesn't pass my gut check either, it also feels unsafe to me. I didn't think to ask friends. I could give it a go, but I think we all live in small apartments :/ E: oh, ha, these dehumidifiers seem to start at like three times the size I pictured. https://www.dehumidifier-hire.com.au/dehumidifier-hire/small-lgr-dehumidifier-hire-dri-eaz-1800 Well, at this rate, maybe my apartment is small enough that one of these things could just dehumidify the whole drat space anyway? Hyperlynx fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Nov 14, 2022 |
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Nov 14, 2022 07:40
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Big plastic tub(s) with a chemical dehydrator like damp rid or silica gel, maybe? It would require the least space of anything I can think of.
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Nov 14, 2022 08:30
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Khizan posted:Big plastic tub(s) with a chemical dehydrator like damp rid or silica gel, maybe? It would require the least space of anything I can think of. That's not a bad idea. Those little dessicant packets you get in fancy chips or seaweed packs did cross my mind (and my mum's actually), but it didn't occur to me that there might be big versions of that I could buy. I'll see what I can find... I had sort of pictured the drying as just a long tedious process of waiting for things to dry on the little washing line I've been able to set up (inside), and then I'd deal with the mould afterwards somehow. That's why I was asking about whether there's some chemical I could store the dry pieces in, in their tub, to gently caress up the mould. There are some, so far. It's been over a week since I first found the soaked box of stuff, in any case. Hyperlynx fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Nov 14, 2022 |
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Nov 14, 2022 09:09
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Leperflesh posted:A big part of the problem is keeping the disk perfectly straight, if you flex it inside the slot even slightly it can shatter. The thicker the plate, the less wiggle room you have. 1" is no wiggle room at all. Another part of the problem is that a 4 1/2" wheel on an angle grinder only has a bit over an inch of cutting depth before you're up against the arbor, so you'll be deeeeeep into that slot with just the bottom of the wheel getting through, with loads and loads of friction working against you. the cutting wheel exploding thing is wayyyy overblown, especially for 4.5" zip discs. they're flexble and fiber-reinforced, twisting them under load just chews them up big time. Even if they did explode, they're too lightweight and flexible to penetrate proper safety gear .. that picture of the safety glasseswith the piece of the grinder wheel is a hoax you can get hosed up really easy if you dont wear eye protection -- and i dont think safety glasses are enough, goggles are best -- but with proper safety gear, properly positioned guard and some respect for the tool, the risk is pretty low. this reckless grandpa's video matches what i've seen and experienced https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Epscc8Z5niQ&t=285s
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Nov 14, 2022 13:54
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Like there's no way that this photo is real: cutting wheels dont "cut" like a saw blade or have the momentum and hardness to penetrate flexible plastic like that
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Nov 14, 2022 13:58
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Like there's no way that this photo is real: Perhaps it's the angle/perspective on the other chunk of wheel (stcuk in the shield) but it looks an awful lot bigger than a 4 inch wheel. Like sure I get the message they're trying to make but it's obviously faked as gently caress.
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Nov 14, 2022 14:34
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:the cutting wheel exploding thing is wayyyy overblown, especially for 4.5" zip discs. they're flexble and fiber-reinforced, twisting them under load just chews them up big time. Even if they did explode, they're too lightweight and flexible to penetrate proper safety gear .. that picture of the safety glasseswith the piece of the grinder wheel is a hoax I have personally exploded dozens and dozens of abrasive wheels while freehand cutting with a hand grinder without a guard, back-cutting hardware to reveal crack surfaces. They have almost no mass and if you wear long cotton sleeves and a face shield, this poster is right that you can’t really hurt yourself with a 4” wheel. Bigger wheels are in enclosed cutting chambers because those actually are dangerous. We use to have a saw everyone in the shop called the suicide saw because it was a pretty unguarded abrasive cutter with a 5-axis vise you could use to make delicate cuts very straight (like 18” straight through plate steel). Even with 8 inch wheels, which I popped plenty of, any face shield will easily protect you from harm. Honestly, the important piece of PPE that people often forget is hearing protection. Those grinders can get very loud and earplugs are dead easy to wear regularly.
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Nov 14, 2022 15:27
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I bought this when I explained to the hardware store person that I was trying to build a kitchen counter, it's some kind of waterproofing, food-safe oil: Countertop oil. It's colorless, but I want to make my countertop a little darker since the light wood is a bit too light in color, imo. I asked if I can stain it first, but they claimed I couldn't. That doesn't seem right though? They also don't have any colored oil of the same kind. Is that true and I just have to accept the color the wood has now?
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Nov 15, 2022 00:00
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I'm not familiar with that product but yes, in general you should be able to stain it first. Let the stain dry fully for 24-48 hours. If you use an oil based stain under that (presumably) oil based product, the topcoat may lift some of the stain but if it's well dried it should be okay. You want just a stain, not any kind of stain/sealer. Some sealers may not be compatible with that product.
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Nov 15, 2022 02:21
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How in the world do I replace this light bulb on this fan? I've tried to see if it unscrews, but it spins freely and doesn't come down. There aren't any clips or screws that are directly connected like I'd expect. Any one have any ideas?  
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Nov 15, 2022 05:41
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The glass part freely spins? I'd imagine there's a groove in there you should be able to undo
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Nov 15, 2022 05:54
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It's the glass dome. It might be just notched or something. Try lifting it up as you spin. Or you're going to google the model of fan and find out there is a lifetime led panel in there.
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Nov 15, 2022 06:05
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There's not really any up or down motion possible. It spins, but there's very little if any travel up and down. I can try again though and hope I'm missing it.
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Nov 15, 2022 06:27
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Figure out the make and model. There is a sticker in one of your pictures.
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Nov 15, 2022 07:07
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It either unscrews, or there are release points/vertical grooves in the glass dome - you rotate it while maintaining light support under it & it should drop into your hand. I'm a littler concerned about that visible wire nut in the second photo.
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Nov 15, 2022 16:04
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That or you may need to pull down gently while turning to get the threads to engage.
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Nov 15, 2022 16:26
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Despite feeling silly about pinging the landlord to replace a bulb, I sent them a message so hopefully will get either the instructions or help. Is that wire nut concerning enough I should mention it?
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Nov 15, 2022 18:31
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Carillon posted:How in the world do I replace this light bulb on this fan? I've tried to see if it unscrews, but it spins freely and doesn't come down. There aren't any clips or screws that are directly connected like I'd expect. Any one have any ideas? It looks like the glass screws in and probably got stripped/cross-threaded/whatever. I had a fan give me this grief before. I had to use one of those pop-a-dent suction cups (I mean I guess you could say it's for transporting glass hehehe) to latch on to the glass. That gave something to pull while turning it. This is a job for two sets of hands mostly because it's a lot of coordination to pull on the glass, turning the glass, and making sure it doesn't just come crashing down on your face. I got to do it on the floor after removing an old fan and it was tricky enough that way solo without having gravity be your enemy.
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Nov 15, 2022 19:18
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I'm betting it's friction set via thin metal clips. If it spins freely, then that's probably it. I'd try to get your fingers into the groove between the glass and the metal and put downward pressure on it. If its clips, it'll just pop off.
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Nov 15, 2022 19:20
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My left sink - with the disposal - is not draining. The disposal turns freely and also shoots a jet of water out of the sink basin. Right sink drains freely. Does that imply that the horizontal pipe is clogged? What's my order of operations here? 
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Nov 16, 2022 15:57
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Happiness Commando posted:My left sink - with the disposal - is not draining. The disposal turns freely and also shoots a jet of water out of the sink basin. Right sink drains freely. Does that imply that the horizontal pipe is clogged? What's my order of operations here? Yes it's a good assumption that you're plumbing is clogged. your fitting shoudl ahve a little slope if it doens't that's going to hurt you. First step would be turn on the stove under the sink.. let it warm up the area.. remove stove.. place a bucket / towel / tray or something down.. and then remove that horizontal piece and check for clogs. If Right sink is fine.. but Left is not.. there's got to be a clog somewhere between where right drains and left drains. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 16:04
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Also get ready for a horrendous smell and a bunch of old rotting food sludge.
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Nov 16, 2022 16:06
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