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Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

A caution in that planars really, seriously do not like end grain. A thickness sander works much better.

With the planar, take a lot of tiny cuts to minimize problems.

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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Or get a helix head

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Terminology post, for pedantic reasons:

plane, or hand plane: what is almost always meant when someone doesn't put the r on the end:


Power plane, power planer: an unusual tool, people tend to be specific when they're talking about one of these:


Planer (never "plane"), what is almost always meant when someone puts the r on the end, usually not bothering to use a word like "power". Also referred to as a "lunchbox planer":


Planar fasciitis:

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
Thanks for letting me know re planer.

I’m using a 15” grizzly helix planer. I figure 15 thou passes are probably sufficient? My fear was that the drum sander would get overwhelmed quickly with that much wood and would be better used for getting the planner cutter marks out before hand sanding.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Leperflesh posted:


Planar fasciitis:


Totally agree with the plane(s)(r), but it's "plantar fasciitis" for the feet. I know because I get it :negative:

When I saw planar I thought it was a GD&T conversation...

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yooper posted:

Totally agree with the plane(s)(r), but it's "plantar fasciitis" for the feet. I know because I get it :negative:

:thejoke: :laugh:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sadi posted:

Thanks for letting me know re planer.

I’m using a 15” grizzly helix planer. I figure 15 thou passes are probably sufficient? My fear was that the drum sander would get overwhelmed quickly with that much wood and would be better used for getting the planner cutter marks out before hand sanding.
Planers do sort of okay on endgrain but they will blow out the sides/edges of the cutting board. You can prevent that by glueing on sacrificial material around the outside or planning to cut off about 1/2” all around the perimeter. Planing endgrain is really hard on the knives and will dull them more quickly and IME they are more likely to chip. Drum or belt sander may be a better choice, especially if you take time during glue up to get everything fairly flat

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I try to call the common power tool a "thicknesser" these days, because that's really what it does: remove thickness from materials. It doesn't make them flat, or anyway it doesn't specialize at that task; that's what a jointer is for. If you run a bowed/twisted piece through a thicknesser, you'll get a thinner bowed/twisted piece out the other end.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Sadi posted:

Thanks for letting me know re planer.

I’m using a 15” grizzly helix planer. I figure 15 thou passes are probably sufficient? My fear was that the drum sander would get overwhelmed quickly with that much wood and would be better used for getting the planner cutter marks out before hand sanding.

If you have a drum sander, use a low grit like 60. A helix head cutter is your next best bet, and make a note in your planner what Kaiser mentioned. :newlol:

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I saw some woodworking show on pbs one time.
Dude made an end grain cutting board and talked about how sandiNg, planing etc was difficult and/or hard on power tools so he made some kind of frame to hold the board and also used it as a way to hold a router at a set height off the board and used the router to level it, or whatever the gently caress y'all are trying to do

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Nov 16, 2022

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


I glued together this cherry rectangle and am trying to figure out how to attach it to top of my shelf/frame. Some online calculator said I can expect 1/4" maximum movement over the course of a year, does that sound like the right ballpark?

I've never attached a tabletop before and I see there's lots of designs but I really have no idea when one is appropriate over the other. Would doweling the center where it's moving the least be appropriate or do I need to make some sort of "floating" solution?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

wesleywillis posted:

I saw some woodworking show on pbs one time.
Dude made an end grain cutting board and talked about how sandiNg, planing etc was difficult and/or hard on power tools so he made some kind of frame to hold the board and also used it as a way to hold a router at a set height off the board and used the router to level it, or whatever the gently caress y'all are trying to do

Router flattening jigs are certainly a thing. They're not entirely trivial to make though. You need tight tolerances on everything to get good results, and you need a way to keep the workpiece from moving while you flatten it. It's not impossible, just don't expect this to be a "bing bang bong so simple" kind of solution.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah I've seen router jigs like that used for flattening big wood slabs, it's very time consuming but basically the only way to deal with that highly figured wood across big distances (3' plus) with no tearout or unevenness. For much smaller material, cases where "pretty flat" is good enough, etc. a drum sander will give you the consistency and if you don't have one, I think hand-planing with a wickedly sharp plane is far slower than using a lunchbox planer but also less likely to destroy your workpiece or cost you a ton of money in replacement cutters.

All of these approaches can work though, we're discussing differences in quality and effort and cost basically. Unless you're going to make 40 cutting boards it's not worth buying an expensive tool like a big drum sander just to deal with one or two endgrain projects a year, probably.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

PokeJoe posted:

I glued together this cherry rectangle and am trying to figure out how to attach it to top of my shelf/frame. Some online calculator said I can expect 1/4" maximum movement over the course of a year, does that sound like the right ballpark?

I've never attached a tabletop before and I see there's lots of designs but I really have no idea when one is appropriate over the other. Would doweling the center where it's moving the least be appropriate or do I need to make some sort of "floating" solution?



This is going on the very top, on top of the rails and legs? If so, any of table top buttons, figure eight fasteners, or z-clips are fine. I do buttons because I think they're neat and scrap is always on hand and free.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
For what it's worth, when I did end-grain cutting boards, I just ran them through my thicknesser 1/64" at a time, and figured I'd have to replace the blades sooner :shrug: It makes a godawful racket though, and like Kaiser Schnitzel said, you'll have a lot of tearout.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I try to call the common power tool a "thicknesser" these days, because that's really what it does: remove thickness from materials. It doesn't make them flat, or anyway it doesn't specialize at that task; that's what a jointer is for. If you run a bowed/twisted piece through a thicknesser, you'll get a thinner bowed/twisted piece out the other end.

That's even more wrong tho, why call it a thicknesser when it makes more thinness

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Router flattening jigs are certainly a thing. They're not entirely trivial to make though. You need tight tolerances on everything to get good results, and you need a way to keep the workpiece from moving while you flatten it. It's not impossible, just don't expect this to be a "bing bang bong so simple" kind of solution.

Got ya. The guy had a woodworking show on PBS, so he's probably got a ton of experience and also resources to work with and build something to do that.

But if you're just worried about the piece moving back and forth and side to side, couldn't you just screw some pieces of angle iron (obviously ones that aren't taller than the finished height of the work piece) in to a piece of plywood, or table top?

I mean like just but them up to the piece, or clamp them in to place to hold it while you drive the screws?

There might be a ton of holes in this idea, but I'm not a woodworker so I'm sure those of you with experience can probably point out a bunch of reasons as to why its not as simple as I think it will be.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
It depends on the piece, but yeah, in general you want to clamp it somehow. The strategy for an end-grain cutting board will be different from the strategy for a live slab, because the latter is a lot more irregular.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
For a live edge slab your best bet is probably shims + hot glue for the first face, and then you can use regular clamps when you flip it over.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255
If anyone is interested in owning some woodworking history, they are auctioning off a bunch of the late David Charlesworth's handtools:

https://www.classichandtools.com/david-charlesworth/c1308?page=1

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

wesleywillis posted:

Got ya. The guy had a woodworking show on PBS, so he's probably got a ton of experience and also resources to work with and build something to do that.

But if you're just worried about the piece moving back and forth and side to side, couldn't you just screw some pieces of angle iron (obviously ones that aren't taller than the finished height of the work piece) in to a piece of plywood, or table top?

I mean like just but them up to the piece, or clamp them in to place to hold it while you drive the screws?

There might be a ton of holes in this idea, but I'm not a woodworker so I'm sure those of you with experience can probably point out a bunch of reasons as to why its not as simple as I think it will be.

you can do lots of things if you have a table the size of any workpiece you could possibly want to flatten. There's no secret catch to leveling with a router, it's just slow and fiddly and space-intensive in a way that running a board through a lunchbox planer isn't, and there's relatively few edge cases where the latter won't do the job as well. Woodworking shows are generally set in a well-stocked shop you could park a cathedral in and the boring parts all get edited out.

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Nov 17, 2022

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


ColdPie posted:

This is going on the very top, on top of the rails and legs? If so, any of table top buttons, figure eight fasteners, or z-clips are fine. I do buttons because I think they're neat and scrap is always on hand and free.

Yeah it's the very top. Thanks I decided to use some slotted brackets. Somehow my googling didn't show me buttons but I'd have gone with those if I hadn't already glued the frame together, I just don't have a convenient way to cut any slots on an assembled shape.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PokeJoe posted:

Yeah it's the very top. Thanks I decided to use some slotted brackets. Somehow my googling didn't show me buttons but I'd have gone with those if I hadn't already glued the frame together, I just don't have a convenient way to cut any slots on an assembled shape.

sounds like an excuse to buy a plunge router!

...or OK, chisels. You can cut slots with chisels, too

AAAAA! Real Muenster
Jul 12, 2008

My QB is also named Bort

Hi thread, I havent posted here in a while but I thought of this thread when I saw this, and wanted to share:
https://i.imgur.com/WQQiEQS.mp4

(please ignore the ad-thing that pops up at the bottom)

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Seems incredibly fake.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
As if table saws weren't dangerous enough. Now they can give paper cuts too

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Someone gave me a gift of two burr oak (a dark brown slow growing northern white oak) slabs, one about 14 by 7 and one about 24 by 7, 8+/4 rough sawn. They both need small epoxy work, and the larger one has a crotch at one end. What should I do with em?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I assume those are inches and not feet, so a giant slab table isn't on order.

For small slabs I've been contemplating making live-edge shelves, little things that could go on a bathroom wall or hold some shoes or something, like this:

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Yeah sorry seven feet long roughly 24 inches wide heavy as a neutron star and with room to flatten them to 2" thick.

That shoe stand has my attention....

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

CommonShore posted:

Yeah sorry seven feet long roughly 24 inches wide heavy as a neutron star and with room to flatten them to 2" thick.

That shoe stand has my attention....

That's long enough to make a bench or I've been thinking about making a live edge cabinet or table thing to put under the TV and hold the AV boxes, record player, cable box, etc.

I'd use the slab as the top and maybe sides or perhaps doors and then use another wood for the actual cabinetry.

Some google images for inspiration, although none of these are quite what I have in my head:




CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

That's long enough to make a bench or I've been thinking about making a live edge cabinet or table thing to put under the TV and hold the AV boxes, record player, cable box, etc.

I'd use the slab as the top and maybe sides or perhaps doors and then use another wood for the actual cabinetry.

Some google images for inspiration, although none of these are quite what I have in my head:






The drawer faces on the last one are pretty interesting, and the second one is along the lines of something that another person has asked me to make for them as a commission

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Danhenge posted:

Seems incredibly fake.
It's not, amazingly enough. John Heisz did it like 6 years ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYfkhdKcEiE

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Hypnolobster posted:

It's not, amazingly enough. John Heisz did it like 6 years ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYfkhdKcEiE

Having seen what paper does to newly sharpened scissors, the only thing that surprised me is how slow the paper abrades away.

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
Paper is a hosed up material. Second hand knowledge, but apparently cardboard isn't great to cut with a router. Not because of a poor cut or risk of burning, but because it will dull the bits too fast.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Serenade posted:

Paper is a hosed up material. Second hand knowledge, but apparently cardboard isn't great to cut with a router. Not because of a poor cut or risk of burning, but because it will dull the bits too fast.

Yeah. I have a standing death threat against anyone who cuts paper with my fabric shears.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Stultus Maximus posted:

Yeah. I have a standing death threat against anyone who cuts paper with my fabric shears.

I have mine hidden

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I can't stop thinking about the Paper saw blade. Imagine the fuckin paper cuts you'd get from that poo poo.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

Serenade posted:

Paper is a hosed up material. Second hand knowledge, but apparently cardboard isn't great to cut with a router. Not because of a poor cut or risk of burning, but because it will dull the bits too fast.

I have a friend that makes decorative door hangers and a few years ago I routered out 150 pumpkins for her out of mdf. I think I went through 6 bits.

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Sadi posted:

Thanks for letting me know re planer.

I’m using a 15” grizzly helix planer. I figure 15 thou passes are probably sufficient? My fear was that the drum sander would get overwhelmed quickly with that much wood and would be better used for getting the planner cutter marks out before hand sanding.
I haven't tried a helix blade set, but my Rigid straight blade planer was very enthusiastic about chipping out a weird chunk of end grain, and throwing the board across the room on the input side. Planing end grain is scary. If you're pretty consistent about the strips you glue up you won't have a ton of material to remove on the endgrain flatttening step, I've had good results with a belt sander for this, and sticking to the power planer for the earlier steps.

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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Do ya'll have any TV stand plans that you like? I checked out woodgears.ca but nothing specifically that would work. I'm looking for at least a top shelf and bottom shelf (for receiver, etc) and I would guess the stand needs to be 65+" wide to not look too small. I have a circular saw, jigsaw, few hand saws and cheap chisels - I've done dowels before and wouldn't be opposed to buying a pocket screw jig setup. Lumber cost I'm hoping to keep under $200 top end. Figure I'll stain and varnish it when done.

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