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Have you tried using a plunger on it first?
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Nov 16, 2022 16:11
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That was easy. Thanks. Edit: the only plunger I have is a toilet plunger, and the amount of sanitization needed to clean the conceptual grossness is extensive.
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Nov 16, 2022 16:19
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AFewBricksShy posted:Also get ready for a horrendous smell and a bunch of old rotting food sludge. My first house had a disposal that was at least 20 years old. We were doing some general plumbing so we had it removed and when they removed that horizontal pipe. Oh my god. It made me never want a disposal ever again.
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Nov 16, 2022 16:24
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Have you tried using a plunger on it first? Good call I forgot this trick. I had one in my apartment that would get clogged up by my wife and it came.in handy.
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Nov 16, 2022 16:34
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Next time you're at walmart or whatever, grab a sink plunger. They're a few bucks, have shorter handles than toilet plungers.
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Nov 16, 2022 17:03
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Happiness Commando posted:That was easy. Thanks. 1) fill disposal-side kitchen sink enough to cover the plunger. 2) add a 4-oz bleach. 3) stand plunger in the water, being sure to suck as much bleach water into the plunger as possible. 4) occupy yourself for 10-15 minutes 5) plunge sink. Or: Plunge the sink. Using a toilet plunger in your kitchen sink is fine, just rinse out the sink well afterwards, maybe spray some antibacterial if it really bothers you. What's in the drain set is arguably worse. Hell, what's lurking in your kitchen scrub pads & sponges is just as bad. What doesn't kill you, makes you stronger.
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Nov 16, 2022 18:10
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If your sink is an under mount, you might want to support it from below before plunging. I'm sure it doesn't happen all the time,, but someone post that gif of the under mount sink being plunged
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Nov 16, 2022 18:24
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wesleywillis posted:If your sink is an under mount, you might want to support it from below before plunging. I'm sure it doesn't happen all the time,, but someone post that gif of the under mount sink being plunged Plunged into darkness.
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Nov 16, 2022 19:00
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PainterofCrap posted:Using a toilet plunger in your kitchen sink is fine, just rinse out the sink well afterwards, maybe spray some antibacterial if it really bothers you. What's in the drain set is arguably worse. Hell, what's lurking in your kitchen scrub pads & sponges is just as bad. I will never plunge anything but a toilet or shower with a plunger that has been in a toilet. I don't care if it's into a literal sink of bleach and steam cleaned after, it's just not happening. And while I understand I've cleaned blown-out childrens clothing in oxyclean in the sink etc it's just a bridge too far.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:14
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our condo has fire sprinklers inside each unit and the common areas, but they are also on the outside of each unit (typically right above the patio/deck). We were told that to remove one of these to test it, you can't actually remove it from the outside - you have to cut open the wall on the inside and get to it from there. does that seem strange to anyone else? with the interior ones you can just remove them normally.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:40
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actionjackson posted:our condo has fire sprinklers inside each unit and the common areas, but they are also on the outside of each unit (typically right above the patio/deck). We were told that to remove one of these to test it, you can't actually remove it from the outside - you have to cut open the wall on the inside and get to it from there. does that seem strange to anyone else? with the interior ones you can just remove them normally. Do not touch the fire suppression system unless you're certified to touch the fire suppression system. Who is telling you? This is a "hire it out" sort of thing, and something the HOA almost certainly should be handling.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:44
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H110Hawk posted:Do not touch the fire suppression system unless you're certified to touch the fire suppression system. Who is telling you? This is a "hire it out" sort of thing, and something the HOA almost certainly should be handling. When I say we were told, that was a person from the company who tests them. I just found it odd that somehow you can't remove them from the outside. Which means we are going to have to put a hole in someone's wall to get to it. It is being handled by the HOA (I know about it because I'm on the board), I just thought it was strange.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:58
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A bunch of my doors look like this What's my best for closing those gaps? I bought some of that stick on weather stripping but it gradually came off, is there something better?
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Nov 19, 2022 17:51
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edit: not taking out the baseboard heating after all
melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Nov 19, 2022 23:22
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I have these columns outside of my house. On top, one side is covered with cement or stucco or something.  The other side is open however.  I have a feeling this should not be open. Should it be open?
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Nov 20, 2022 01:42
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X-Post from the plumbing thread: Coming in here to see how screwed I might be. I'm just trying to install a new tub faucet/handle/shower head set, and ran into an issue the PO/old contractor left for me. I removed the old tub spout, and the pipe it was attached to (just via sliding on and then tightened with a set screw) then went back inside the wall. There was a bunch of old caulk around where the pipe came out through the finished tub wall, and it had degraded so once I removed the spout, the tension holding it all in place was gone and it sank back into the wall. Now I'm left with not enough pipe to attach the new OR old spout to.  That's what it is now, maybe 1/2-3/4" out from the finished wall? Here's the attachment piece I'm supposed to slide onto the remaining pipe for the new faucet to screw onto:  As you can see, the pipe is over an inch short of how long it needs to be. It doesn't have to go all the way the length of that adapter, but it has to go just past where it has the hexagonal sides where the set screw is to tighten it down. I THINK I can fix this via cutting an access panel in the closet opposite the shower wall. I didn't want to have to, but oh well, I guess at least it will be there for any potential future plumbing issues? Once I have the hole cut, my plan is for my girlfriend to push on the pipe so it sticks back out to where it was, then I can push the adapter on, tighten down the set screw, and then screw the faucet on. The hole in the wall is big enough that it will sink the adapter back into the hole, so I think I'll have to have her keep pushing on the pipe until I get the faucet slightly screwed onto the threads so that it can then stop the pipe from going back in. Of course, all that hinges on having enough "slack" in the pipe so I can attach the adapter. If there's not enough slack, I'm not sure what I can do...I don't think I'd be able to "reach around' to the front to de-solder and then re-solder on a longer piece of pipe...so I guess I'd have to pre-construct a pipe with the 90 degree elbow on it, and then go back up to the valve body and de-solder and re-solder in the new piece up there?
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Nov 20, 2022 03:11
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Happiness Commando posted:My left sink - with the disposal - is not draining. The disposal turns freely and also shoots a jet of water out of the sink basin. Right sink drains freely. Does that imply that the horizontal pipe is clogged? What's my order of operations here? Others already responded, but it's probably just clogged at the baffle inside of the sanitary tee. H110Hawk posted:Do not touch the fire suppression system unless you're certified to touch the fire suppression system. Who is telling you? This is a "hire it out" sort of thing, and something the HOA almost certainly should be handling. To add on to this, sprinkler piping and heads often have some of the most biologically-unfriendly water present, and can very likely make you extremely sick. So try to avoid exposure as much as possible, i.e. don't touch them like H110Hawk said. FogHelmut posted:I have these columns outside of my house. It should not, and based on the presence of the welded wire mesh you see, it actually used to probably have a stucco cap much like the other one does. As you also saw, when they put the cap on to protect it, it was about as cheaply thin as it could be, which is why one has come off and the other looks like it's heading that way.
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Nov 20, 2022 03:51
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DrBouvenstein posted:X-Post from the plumbing thread: Why not solder on a short pup piece that allows you to then attach the fitting?
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Nov 20, 2022 03:52
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DrBouvenstein posted:X-Post from the plumbing thread: Are you able to pull on that stub, and does it move at all when you do? If it doesn't move: You have to open the wall at the back and see how it's configured. It's probably a short length of copper that drops down from the mixing valve, then turns 90-degrees to exit for the faucet. In such case, it will not move. If however, it does have some play, you may be able to thread a wire loop back there to pull it out far enough to get the adapter on there. Once that's on, you should have enough showing proud to thread the faucet into it. If all else fails, cut an access hole *& install a plate. You should have one anyway. SourKraut posted:Why not solder on a short pup piece that allows you to then attach the fitting? Too close to the tub surround, which appears highly flammable. I just went through something similar when I rebuilt the entire faucet set plumbing for a slant-back bathroom sink at my sister's house. Had to replace the gnarly old gate shutoff valves. After 70-years, the copper was like tissue paper.  Really hated to do it, but had to beat open this steel-mesh wet-bed tile wall from 1955 to get to good copper, and was able to pull it far enough out with vise-grips, and get it to stay out, long enough to sweat on a male threaded end. https://i.imgur.com/xySNLYw.mp4   PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 04:44
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^^ my grandparent's house, built around the same year, had what looks like the same tile  LG Direct Drive front load washer, we've noticed the last few times we've used this thing there's soap foam at the bottom of the opening (and on the door) after wash loads. The gasket seems.. fine? It doesn't seem impinged on the bottom or otherwise bad. Is this a concern or sign of something? 
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Nov 20, 2022 04:54
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PainterofCrap posted:Too close to the tub surround, which appears highly flammable. Wasn't sure if it was just drywall or something else; I had this exact same issue last year, with too small of a opening, and I just enlarged it some and put flame cloth as a barrier. Soldered fine without even a small amount of singe! (granted, took my time and was nervous the whole way through) Hed posted:^^ my grandparent's house, built around the same year, had what looks like the same tile
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Nov 20, 2022 16:33
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PainterofCrap posted:Are you able to pull on that stub, and does it move at all when you do? Oooh, I'll try that. Not a lot of room in the hole on the surround, but I've got some stuff wire laying around and a couple pairs of long tweezers. Worth a try. I guess I can slightly enlarge the hole in the surround, so long as it's still smaller than the the spout's footprint. PainterofCrap posted:Too close to the tub surround, which appears highly flammable. Yeah, it's just a Bathfitters vinyl overlay, who are also partly to blame for this mess since they clearly just skapdashed it on top, as I hear they're prone to do. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 16:55
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Opopanax posted:A bunch of my doors look like this e: My house is full of boob lights, c/o last owner. I dislike boob lights. However, the house is a 1931 seaside cottage with beadboard everywhere, so stark modern overhead lights are going to look out of place. I'm looking at things like this on Ebay. It doesn't look hard for an amateur to rewire -- replace sockets, add new wires, terminate out the back. However, I don't see how you mount this -- would it originally have had a mounting plate? and I wonder if I'm overestimating my skills. It's very likely that the original lights were schoolhouse fixtures, which I irrationally dislike. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 17:09
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Anyone experienced with garage door openers? My dad has a Sears craftsman model 139.18060. Looking to replace the logic board. Thing is, I can't find this model anywhere. It seems the 139's are almost all 139.5xyz. not sure if it's because we're in Canada or something. Anyone come across something like this before? Hoping to figure out what the equivalent model is, if any.
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Nov 20, 2022 17:36
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Jenkl posted:Anyone experienced with garage door openers? Local garage door company might have collection of old parts or be able tell you your s.o.l. The company that installed the one on my house when it was built in 1980s had Genie replacement parts for me a couple years ago.
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Nov 20, 2022 18:17
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DrBouvenstein posted:Oooh, I'll try that. Not a lot of room in the hole on the surround, but I've got some stuff wire laying around and a couple pairs of long tweezers. Worth a try. Well, still couldn't get quote enough pipe. I was wrong about how long it needed to be proud of the shower wall, it needs to be closer to 1 1/2" to get past an internal O-ring to prevent leaks. So I initially assumed I'd have to entirely rebuild it and cut said access panel...BUT I think I can actually do a workaround. I was watching a plumbing video about these adapters Delta sends with their spouts, and it has 1/2" MIP threads on the inside. In the video, the plumber used a 5/8" OD compression fitting to 1/2" MIP male threaded adapter. I should have just enough room to do that if I pull out on the pipe a little bit with the wire I've still got looped around the vertical part of the pipe. Headed out to the hardware store now to get one of those and we'll try that, and if that still doesn't work, then def. cutting open that hole. Edit: NOPE. The Delta tub spout adapter doesn't fit over the hex nut end of the compression fitting...I def saw it fit in the video, I have the right size, so I'm upset. Delta must have changed the configuration of the adapter...mine is the style that uses a set screw, I think the one in the video is an older style that is only for threading or soldering, not slip on?  Second edit: Yeah, in the video I can see that he has an older/different version that doesn't have the slip on/set screw connector option, so as a result, the internal MIP threads start at the end of the adapter. Mine has about 1" of smooth internal sides for the slip on section before the threads start, so I can't use a compression adapter, it would only work if I had MIP/NPT threaded pipe already coming out of my wall. I'll have to see if I can buy that other style of adapter from Delta, or maybe if I'm lucky it's something Lowe's or HD has in stock and I don't have to wait several days to have a shower? DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 20:20
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SourKraut posted:Wasn't sure if it was just drywall or something else; I had this exact same issue last year, with too small of a opening, and I just enlarged it some and put flame cloth as a barrier. Soldered fine without even a small amount of singe! (granted, took my time and was nervous the whole way through) Thanks! I hadn't done this lately and it seems to be less foamy after one wash... but there wasn't really much in the filter except a little sand and tiny bit of lint. Will continue to watch it for the next few washes.
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Nov 20, 2022 20:28
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DrBouvenstein posted:
Found the part at Amazon and Delta, got it from Amazon since I've already got the free shipping, but unfortunately I don't even have the option to get overnight on it, so fingers crossed I can get it by Tuesday, but it's claiming Wednesday. I actually might go buy one of those "generic" tub faucets that are made to fit a 1/2" MIP fitting, they seem to run ~$20, small price to pay to have a working tub+shower for the next couple days. But I don't think my current MIP extends far enough so I'd also have to buy a MIP extension piece? Is that a thing? Edit: Well, I thought it worked...got a coupling, nipple, and cheap faucet...got them screwed together, it leaks a tiny bit from the faucet, but my nipple was too long anyway so it just drips back down into the tub, fine for a couple days. But that's not the real problem. If I use the diverter/turn on the shower, there's water spewing into my basement from somewhere inside the wall. Only with the shower on. Well, that is to say I only saw the water drip/spray down with the shower on... my GUESS is the all the movement/stress I put on the bit of pipe caused the joint at the elbow, or back further up at the valve body, to break. And maybe it drips a bit I can't notice immediately with the faucet on, but the increased back pressure from the shower being on makes it leak faster. I'm done trying to fix it, I'm just mucking it up further, it's plumber time I guess. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 21:31
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OK, yeah, don't know what I was thinking that I'd be able to get a plumber in anything close to a good timetable. So far two never ansered the phones and haven't called back. One is scheduling late January for new customers, and don't do emergency calls for non-customers. Another is "only" 3 weeks out, but at least gave a sort of milquetoast "I'll take all your info and maybe if another customer cancels or a job take a lot quicker than we thought we'll call and see if we can squeeze you in" answer. Maybe I will just try to do it myself. I can get access from the closet behind the shower, no access panel there NOW, but hey, not a bad idea to have one, right?
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Nov 21, 2022 18:06
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The leaking could be from the tub faucet that you put on as a stopgap. You can do this. Open the closet wall & all will be revealed & repairable.
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Nov 22, 2022 00:00
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PainterofCrap posted:The leaking could be from the tub faucet that you put on as a stopgap. Yeah, you're right. Opened it up and it's the mish mash of too many connectors I was using to try and half-rear end the repair before I could repair it for good. I either didn't put enough Teflon tape on the threaded pieces, or my compression fitting is bad and either not tight enough or too tight. At least not I know it's the same fix it was originally...solder a new length of copper down from the valve body with a proper length piece of copper coming out from the wall. Edit: it was the compression fitting. The end of the copper stub out got a little bent from my attempts to attach the other fitting so there was a gap between the compression ring and outside of the pipe. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 00:28
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I need to anchor a weight cable pulley system to a wall with metal studs in it, what's the best way for me to do that? Right now it's got lag bolts holding it on a 2x6 that's attached to a wall with wooden studs by several long screws. I'm not sure what the best way to attach the 2x6 to the metal studs would be, Google is telling me toggle bolts but I don't know if there's a better option.
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Nov 22, 2022 00:46
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TheBeardedCrazy posted:I need to anchor a weight cable pulley system to a wall with metal studs in it, what's the best way for me to do that? Right now it's got lag bolts holding it on a 2x6 that's attached to a wall with wooden studs by several long screws. I mean...yeah, toggle bolts but those metal studs aren't strong parallel to the way they have been run. What direction is the force going to be in? You may need to span a bunch of them with strapping or plywood so you have enough strength to anchor to that. I hate metal studs. They are poo poo that are good for nothing other than holding up drywall in the cheapest way possible.
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Nov 22, 2022 00:49
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Whilst feeding my vermin house animals last night I observed that the baseboard along that section of wall had become detached thusly: The baseboard (which frankly is probably just a random piece of lumber the flippers picked up at Home Depot 7 years ago) bows out somewhat now. I'm assuming it is related to the onset of winter causing temperature changes and wood shrinks and whatever was barely holding it in place before finally let go. What should I do to fix this? Countersink a couple drywall screws and call it a day?
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Nov 22, 2022 03:08
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chutwig posted:Whilst feeding my vermin house animals last night I observed that the baseboard along that section of wall had become detached thusly: Get some wood screws (*not* drywall screws) and attach it to the studs. Once it's secure, caulk along the top and you're fine. DrBouvenstein posted:Yeah, you're right. Opened it up and it's the mish mash of too many connectors I was using to try and half-rear end the repair before I could repair it for good. I either didn't put enough Teflon tape on the threaded pieces, or my compression fitting is bad and either not tight enough or too tight. If it's copper all the way down, you can just cut it at some arbitrary point and solder a coupling + whatever pipe you need. I would not suggest you touch the valve if you can avoid it (they soak up a bunch of heat because of thermal mass, and if you don't remove the plastic bits can be permanently ruined) devicenull fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 03:54
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Motronic posted:I mean...yeah, toggle bolts but those metal studs aren't strong parallel to the way they have been run. What direction is the force going to be in? You may need to span a bunch of them with strapping or plywood so you have enough strength to anchor to that. The main goal is to keep the towers against the wall and prevent them from falling over. I'm assuming that the pulleys will redirect most of the force from the weights vertically but I'm assuming the force of people pulling on the cables for exercises which will be mostly horizontal/perpendicular to the wall will affect it as well. The towers attach at the top and bottom with a handful of lag bolts, can't remember the exact amount but I want to say it's around 4 at each end. I figure the tower is getting attached to something that is getting attached to the metal studs by some type of fastener. I'm just not sure what's the safest way to do it
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Nov 22, 2022 08:59
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would it be worth going from a MERV 12 to a MERV 13 filter for my condo furnace? It's only a couple years old and uses the larger 16x25x5 size, which only needs to be replaced every six months. I read 13 will filter pet dander (I have a dog, though it's a greyhound so there's not much fur around). We are also unfortunately right next to a freeway, and I read 13-16 will filter auto fumes (though we are above the freeway with some greenery blocking it so it's not a big issue). https://www.grainger.com/know-how/equipment-information/kh-what-is-merv-rating-air-filter-rating-chart I'm also wondering if the ones that have carbon are worth the extra cost. the price for each is 12: 30 12+carbon: 39 13: 41 13+carbon: 49
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Nov 22, 2022 19:36
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Regular filters work by mechanically trapping small solid particles in the air that passes through them. The higher the MERV rating, the smaller the particles that can be trapped. In addition, activated carbon can, in principle, filter out harmful vapors (e.g. from solvents). However, it does so using chemical reactions which use up the activated carbon. I would not expect it to provide a noticeable benefit for more than a few days, whether you run the furnace or not. Here's a chart I found online that gives some stats on how MERV rating relates to actual filtration capability:  As you can see, while going from 12 to 13 does make a difference, it's not like "12 is worthless for X, while 13 does X perfectly". That said, I also don't see any real harm in using the highest MERV rating you can reasonably access. Just make sure you're maintaining adequate airflow as well -- high MERV filters have smaller holes.
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Nov 22, 2022 19:49
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I wouldn't worry about it too much. Carbon for smells is a legitimate thing but unless you have something you're trying to solve its not worth the money. Buy a dedicated hepa filter product if you want more filtration. Remember it only can filter the allergens that make it to the filter. A lot of dog dander is going to be left on surfaces and would be best picked up by a vacuum with a legitimate hepa filter on it.
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Nov 22, 2022 20:32
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ok thanks. I decided to go with 13. anything above that seems overkill. any site recommendations? I've used nordicpure but I'm seeing quite a few other options out there. size is 15 3/4 x 24 3/4 x 4 3/8. I have a Trane XV95 though that filter size is often referred to as a Honeywell/Lennox replacement. filterbuy has pretty low prices ($30 each)
actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 20:50
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