|
Charliegrs posted:I think I have a problem Oh my sweet summer child.
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2022 08:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 11:35 |
|
|
Charliegrs posted:I think I have a problem Ugh, not Porsche for dinner again. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2022 14:31
|
|
|
Oh hey, World of Wayne got a tour of airfix's manufacturing. And also for the unveiling of their 1/24th spitfire mk9 model. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOdBfiFemyk
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2022 00:37
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Stagger your work so that you're always at a different stage of each build? This only works until you're at the point where I am at now, in which I've finished one kit and the two others are in their decal stage and about to be finished as well. So I've finished schmitting a messer last night and here it is:   1:72 Revell boxing of the Zvezda snap-together kit. It's pretty decent but the decals have way too much carrier film, as there's only one decal option it feels a bit on the cheap side. At least you get the option of having a pilot figure in there, the seat comes in a pre-butted version with legs and a separate torso and arms, or an empty version. It'll most likely also be the only Messerschmitt I'll ever build as the subject doesn't interest me enough and it's kind of a boring plane. I have yet to build a Spitfire for similar reasons.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 11:53
|
|
|
I tend to use Tamiya black panel liner for weathering engines and suspension/chassis components on my car models. It works well, but it feels a bit too "heavy" I guess is the only way I can describe it. I'm looking for something "lighter" as a wash. Like something I can just slather on the engine to make it look used, but not overly oily. Maybe I should try thinning the panel liner with mineral spirits? Or maybe I should try thinning some Vallejo black paint down heavily with water and brushing it on? The military modelers seem to be master of weathering and this thread is pretty military heavy so I thought this would be a good place to ask.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 21:24
|
|
|
Nothing says oil quite like oil paints, tbh. You can pick up a black and a burnt umber and mix your own grime with some thinner for pretty cheap, or you can get some oil brushers if that sounds like a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 21:53
|
|
|
Seconding oil. A tube of black and brown oil paint plus a small bottle of odourless solvent will last you ages. Note that cheap black oil paint is not great, since it might actually be very dark blue or dark green instead. If you're not sure about mixing your own, Ammo by Mig makes oilbrusher sets where you can do streaking, filters, etc. out of the box with no hassle.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:00
|
|
|
there's also different panel liner colors, specifically grey and brown might help with the black being too much
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:18
|
|
|
My go-to for weathering engines, wheel bays etc to make the details pop is Games Workshop/Citadel's Nuln Oil (not actually oil-based, it's a water-based wash). It's really easy to clean up too. I have recently bought a bunch of AK's enamel-based engine weathering washes though, so I'm going to give them a try soon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:43
|
|
|
Seconding the nuln oil. I use it for panel lining too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 00:47
|
|
|
Arquinsiel posted:Stagger your work so that you're always at a different stage of each build? I made a video a couple years ago showing how to diagram the instructions to build models in a non-linear order to help with efficiency. It is a little dry, but I hope people can get some useful information from it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw-IQWv8N5o
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 05:48
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:I made a video a couple years ago showing how to diagram the instructions to build models in a non-linear order to help with efficiency. It is a little dry, but I hope people can get some useful information from it. It's a good video.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 09:08
|
|
|
tidal wave emulator posted:My go-to for weathering engines, wheel bays etc to make the details pop is Games Workshop/Citadel's Nuln Oil (not actually oil-based, it's a water-based wash). It's really easy to clean up too. I have recently bought a bunch of AK's enamel-based engine weathering washes though, so I'm going to give them a try soon. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 13:54
|
|
|
Hang on, it's good but it's no Devlan Miracle.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 16:29
|
|
|
I'm just getting into the hobby again. My last kit was the a Tamiya tank kit about 20 years ago when I was a teenager. I have a a couple of armor and figure kits on order and I have started looking for paint and it is totally overwhelming. My only experience has been huffing the small metal Humbrol bottles and old Citadel paints. My instinct is to stock up on a selection of Tamiya acrylic paints and thinners and look in my local art store for good brushes and some basic oils for weathering. I also have a decent airbrush but would be using one for the first time. If YouTube is to be believed, varnish appears to be essential, both glossy while working and weathering and then matt for finishing. Any recommendations on what to use? Is it a good idea to stick within a brand for consistency or is that just marketing huff? My budget is not super tight but I want to realize the best value and not looking to dive in with products that are unnecessarily frustrating to use. Looking to dive in head first but avoid the biggest rocks. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2022 20:26
|
|
|
Varnish is a must. At the very least, you want to apply decals to a glossy surface and then finish off with a matte overall. I found AK Ultra Matte Varnish to be the best, but others are pretty good too. Sticking with a brand is not as important as sticking with a base. For instance, Tamiya acrylics are lacquer based and will need a different thinner than Vallejo acrylics that are water based. I have a pretty big selection of water based acrylics from different brands and never had issues. If you've been out of the hobby for a while, you're probably going to want to focus on just getting a nice even coat of primer/paint on your tank and then play with colour modulation once you get the hang of that. After that, a simple brown wash is going to bring out a lot of details. Once you get that down, move on to fancier weathering techniques.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2022 21:01
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:
Ok, that is very good information! Did not know that. The Tamiya paint seems to have a very good reputation so maybe their paints would make good bases and maybe weather and detail paint with water based like Vallejo (and the mig products seem popular and in the right colors? Does the type of primer matter much? I have been leaving towards a bottle of the black and grey "Vallejo surface primer".
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2022 22:14
|
|
|
I bought a big bottle of Vallejo black, for some reason I had a terrible experience with it. Really runny, goes on translucent, takes ages to dry. No idea why, every other colour of theirs I've bought is fine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2022 23:28
|
|
|
therunningman posted:Ok, that is very good information! Did not know that. The Tamiya paint seems to have a very good reputation so maybe their paints would make good bases and maybe weather and detail paint with water based like Vallejo (and the mig products seem popular and in the right colors? Tamiya paints are super great for airbrushing. I thin it with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and it sprays really well at 15-18psi. For brush painting, it's less than ideal, but is workable. The type of primer isn't as important. Vallejo primer is okay, but not great. I used it a lot when I got back into the hobby a few years ago, but have since migrated to Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with the above leveling thinner. Vallejo primers are vinyl acrylics like their paints, so they cover well, but they don't sand well. They tend to roll into little "sausages" (for lack of better terms) instead of sanding smoothly. Anyhoo, welcome back to the hobby.  We've got a lot of great people in this thread. No questions are stupid, so feel free to ask anything you're curious of.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2022 02:58
|
|
|
Gewehr 43 posted:
Thanks! I have put in an order for some various supplies. I think it will be a matter of testing things and finding what I like best. I'm excited to get back into it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2022 16:57
|
|
|
therunningman posted:Ok, that is very good information! Did not know that. The Tamiya paint seems to have a very good reputation so maybe their paints would make good bases and maybe weather and detail paint with water based like Vallejo (and the mig products seem popular and in the right colors? Tamiya primers in the rattle cans are awesome. They sand really well too. Unfortunately they don't make one in black.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2022 00:05
|
|
|
I distinctly recall painting a kit with a Tamiya rattle can back in the day thinking "this is awesome". Good to know rattle cans is a good option!
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2022 18:28
|
|
|
therunningman posted:Does the type of primer matter much? I have been leaving towards a bottle of the black and grey "Vallejo surface primer". Despite my affinity for Vallejo's paint, their primer leaves alot to be desired. Thinning with a bit of IPA helps but as others said it does not like to "feather" when sanded. Badger's STYNYLREZ is however a near perfect acrylic primer and has become my go to unless I'm using canned Tamiya primer.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2022 01:38
|
|
|
So my cat stole the canopy of the Mosquito I was working on. I've got the drat thing finished except for the matte coat, too. How interchangeable do third party vacuum-formed canopies tend to be? It looks like there's a lot of options out there for the Mattel and Airfix kits, not so much for the Tamiya I'm picking at.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2022 22:46
|
|
|
I hate to say it, but I would not expect any vacuform part to be a drop in replacement for any kit. The couple I've looked at are only replacements in the vaguest sense. Check eBay for a replacement of the sprue you need and to see how much you can get for the cat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2022 23:17
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:So my cat stole the canopy of the Mosquito I was working on. I've got the drat thing finished except for the matte coat, too. negotiate with the cat
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2022 23:22
|
|
|
ChubbyChecker posted:negotiate with the cat She can have my basement mice as ransom for the part
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2022 02:15
|
|
|
Tamiya will ship replacement parts iirc, try dropping them an email.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2022 04:10
|
|
|
This is the airbrush I have. I picked it up used some time ago. The air trigger is a bit sticky so I disassembled it and found paint in the valve. Most likely acrylic paint as there was a small kit of "Comart* paint included. Can I leave it, and other parts, soaking in isopropyl or do I risk damaging anything?  
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2022 04:18
|
|
|
FrozenVent posted:Tamiya will ship replacement parts iirc, try dropping them an email. Did that first, sadly. No copies of that sprue available. They'll sell me another kit for retail, which I guess is technically better than nothing. I'll put the thing in a box and the second I forget about it the part will materialize dead center on my desk.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2022 04:31
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I'll put the thing in a box and the second I forget about it the part will materialize dead center on my desk. This is the way. You may also want to follow your cat around for a couple of days... therunningman posted:Can I leave it, and other parts, soaking in isopropyl or do I risk damaging anything? You've got a rubber seal on there, so probably.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2022 05:15
|
|
|
Rubber seals don't do well suspended in thinner. You might be better off applying some paint remover carefully to the metal parts and scrubbing with a toothpick.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2022 06:16
|
|
|
I found the loving piece, after literally every other option failed me and I put the thing in storage, as I knew would happen.     This felt a little bit like impostor syndrome to be able to just do a couple light coats of blue and call basing and shading done. I think this might be the first twin-engine plane I've built since I was a kid. What really surprised me about this kit, barring my disappearing canopy, is the fitting issues. I'm used to Tamiya kits being simple and well-engineered enough to basically shake the box and get a completed model out the other side. This needed a fair amount of filling on the interior engine nacelles, really needed more filling along the leading edges and the center fuselage, and hoo boy those wings would not stay on until I resurfaced the entire connecting edge. Win some, lose some, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 00:19
|
|
|
I知 about to embark on a project with a fair amount of PE. I have a bender, what else should I look at? I知 near the hobby store tomorrow so I壇 like to take the opportunity.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 00:44
|
|
|
a roller and a torch to anneal the photo etch before bending/rolling it
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 02:08
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Rubber seals don't do well suspended in thinner. You might be better off applying some paint remover carefully to the metal parts and scrubbing with a toothpick. Good to know, I'll be more careful and not leave it soaking. Also, great Mosquito! Is the all blue a historical scheme?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 02:18
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I found the loving piece, after literally every other option failed me and I put the thing in storage, as I knew would happen. Depending on the boxing, the tooling could be from the late 90's. Not as bad as some Revell kits that are still in production, but old enough. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-89786-havilland-mosquito-nf-mkii--140731 In any case, I'm glad you found the canopy. FrozenVent posted:I知 about to embark on a project with a fair amount of PE. Superglue in various viscosities and, for the liquid stuff, a glue looper - though you may not find it at the local hobby store. I don't think you need a torch, I anneal with a standard cigarette lighter and it's never failed me. I'm assuming you have something to cut the PE on like a piece of plexiglass or something? I bought this a few years ago and it's pretty great. Required? No, but definitely helpful. A good set of precision scissors are helpful too. Mind you, none of the above is required, but if you've got a bending jig already and are looking to improve your quality of life when working with PE, stuff like above can be very helpful.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 02:25
|
|
|
FrozenVent posted:I知 about to embark on a project with a fair amount of PE. a pair of kneepads cos you're gonna be spending a lot of time crawling about on the floor looking for a 0.2mm piece of etch that just pinged off into the ether
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 02:35
|
|
|
tidal wave emulator posted:a pair of kneepads cos you're gonna be spending a lot of time crawling about on the floor looking for a 0.2mm piece of etch that just pinged off into the ether Or a big clear plastic bag you can work in to get the tiny parts off the sprue. Not my idea, it might have been suggested in this very thread!
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 02:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 11:35 |
|
|
FrozenVent posted:I’m about to embark on a project with a fair amount of PE. I have a Tamiya diamond filer that works really well for grinding down the burs on the PE that you get when you cut them off from the sprue. So you might want to look into something like that too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2022 04:41
|
|