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hooah posted:Hmm. How would the cap stay put? The pipe isn't threaded. PVC primer and cement. Also Darchangel has it right if you can just use fittings do that.
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Dec 7, 2022 21:03
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PainterofCrap posted:Propane can't get hot enough to melt it & it would probably only work with a proper glass torch if it is borosilicate glass. Otherwise, it'll just break. Wet-sanding is your only option I tried the propane torch and it worked perfectly. Instead of a sharp, chipped edge, I now have a very slightly saggy, smooth edge. No issues with the finish on the glass either. I'd hazard a guess that propane doesn't get hot enough to render a significantly-sized blob of glass red-hot (let alone molten), but I only needed to melt the edge of the chipped area. Because it's sharp, it can't dissipate heat to the rest of the glass very quickly, so the propane was able to get the job done.
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Dec 7, 2022 21:04
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Darchangel posted:Why is just cutting the pipe and putting in a T-fitting out of the question? It's literally that simple. You *might* have to shorten one side 1/4" or so. Just being lazy, mostly. Also I'm not sure if a T fitting would stay put and didn't want to cut stuff up before knowing. Currently the curved sections are like 60" long and bent almost into semicircle. If I put a rjT fitting in the middle of that, would the ends stay in the fitting?
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Dec 7, 2022 21:19
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redreader posted:I further investigated the half working string (3) and replaced the missing light and also noticed a crushed light. I replaced that too and the entire string works! I feel like a handyman! Could've sold them on ebay if they're old enough to not be made in china, lots of people like vintage stuff and repairing it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Dec 8, 2022 |
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Dec 8, 2022 05:34
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hooah posted:Just being lazy, mostly. Also I'm not sure if a T fitting would stay put and didn't want to cut stuff up before knowing. Currently the curved sections are like 60" long and bent almost into semicircle. If I put a rjT fitting in the middle of that, would the ends stay in the fitting? PVC cement forms an insanely strong chemical bond
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Dec 8, 2022 06:23
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redreader posted:I further investigated the half working string (3) and replaced the missing light and also noticed a crushed light. I replaced that too and the entire string works! I feel like a handyman! Basically you're in to test every non-working bulb phase. You can wire up a couple of D cell batteries with a "spare" cup (cut from a otherwise trash cord) and a lot of tape if you are testing minis. I don't know how big a bulb that works on, but in case you're curious or find yourself with an obsession. You can potentially give them away on buy nothing Facebook groups as well to other crazy people. Ah memories of Friday after Thanksgiving unspooling hundreds of feet of lights and then sitting there testing them. My fingers callous at the memory.
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Dec 8, 2022 16:38
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H110Hawk posted:Basically you're in to test every non-working bulb phase. You can wire up a couple of D cell batteries with a "spare" cup (cut from a otherwise trash cord) and a lot of tape if you are testing minis. I don't know how big a bulb that works on, but in case you're curious or find yourself with an obsession. Continuity tester on a multimeter will also work. We just did it with a few strands, and it's pretty annoying to do. Best advice I have is do about 5 bulbs at a time. Once you reach critical mass, the rest will light up and you can visually see which ones are dead.
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Dec 9, 2022 04:10
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devicenull posted:Continuity tester on a multimeter will also work. We just did it with a few strands, and it's pretty annoying to do. Best advice I have is do about 5 bulbs at a time. Once you reach critical mass, the rest will light up and you can visually see which ones are dead. The nice thing about the cup is not having to get the probes just right. You can sort of hog it out to make it not actually hold the bulbs. So many bulbs tested per year. 
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Dec 9, 2022 04:43
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H110Hawk posted:The nice thing about the cup is not having to get the probes just right. You can sort of hog it out to make it not actually hold the bulbs. I worked for a lighting company that provided medium base string lights for events, bulbs got stored in brute trash cans when not in the strings. When loading the strings you would first test each bulb in a little welded stand clamped to the table that was wired to line voltage. Saved time, in retrospect glad my hand never slipped.
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Dec 9, 2022 04:52
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I've got a wall I want to hang some shelving on. Problem is that this used to be an external wall before a previous owner added a room, and what it appears they did was just slap drywall over the pre-existing siding and foam insulation. This means that the wall studs are too deep for my stud finder to detect them. By my math, I'd need to penetrate roughly 4 inches into the wall with a screw before I'd even touch the studs. Typical wall anchors wouldn't work because they'd be unable to spread their arms with the siding behind the drywall. Any brilliant ideas on how to find the studs? I guess I could just guess and patch any wrong guesses, but that seems very inelegant.
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Dec 9, 2022 20:07
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alnilam posted:PVC cement forms an insanely strong chemical bond Or if you don’t want to glue it (maybe you want to be able to disassemble to store?) get everything how you want it, and drill a hole through the fitting into the tubing and run an appropriate sized wood screw in to secure it. I plan to do that for a temp canopy to work on my cars in the driveway. Easier and larger than an “EZ Up” style canopy.
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Dec 9, 2022 20:22
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Bobulus posted:I've got a wall I want to hang some shelving on. Problem is that this used to be an external wall before a previous owner added a room, and what it appears they did was just slap drywall over the pre-existing siding and foam insulation. This means that the wall studs are too deep for my stud finder to detect them. If there's a receptacle, window or door on that wall, you should be able to locate them by measuring off of them in sixteen-inc increments. And get 5" screws.
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Dec 10, 2022 00:23
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Tezer posted:I worked for a lighting company that provided medium base string lights for events, bulbs got stored in brute trash cans when not in the strings. When loading the strings you would first test each bulb in a little welded stand clamped to the table that was wired to line voltage. so this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz7X7WQIau4 so many chances for shocks.
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Dec 10, 2022 00:31
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Bobulus posted:I've got a wall I want to hang some shelving on. Problem is that this used to be an external wall before a previous owner added a room, and what it appears they did was just slap drywall over the pre-existing siding and foam insulation. This means that the wall studs are too deep for my stud finder to detect them. By my math, I'd need to penetrate roughly 4 inches into the wall with a screw before I'd even touch the studs. Typical wall anchors wouldn't work because they'd be unable to spread their arms with the siding behind the drywall. Can’t you just use the stud finder on the opposite side of the wall and measure back to a door or something?
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Dec 10, 2022 10:41
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Bobulus posted:I've got a wall I want to hang some shelving on. Problem is that this used to be an external wall before a previous owner added a room, and what it appears they did was just slap drywall over the pre-existing siding and foam insulation. This means that the wall studs are too deep for my stud finder to detect them. By my math, I'd need to penetrate roughly 4 inches into the wall with a screw before I'd even touch the studs. Typical wall anchors wouldn't work because they'd be unable to spread their arms with the siding behind the drywall. use a powerful magnet and move it around on the wall until it sticks to a drywall screw. once you find a stud, mark it and measure 16" to the left and right. See if you can verify a stud being there w the magnet. If not, make a couple holes w the smallest drill bit you have to verify the location of the stud. If they really did just slap drywall over the siding, I'm gonna assume they didn't bother to find the studs and they just fastened the drywall to the plywood sheathing, so you may not be able to rely on the location of the drywall screws as a guide for the framing members. Fortunately, they make long toggle bolts that are like heavy duty drywall anchors. They require a larger hole than the plastic drywall anchors but since you'll be covering it w a shelf bracket it doesn't matter. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-5-in-Zinc-Plated-Toggle-Bolt-with-Round-Head-Phillips-Drive-Screw-2-Pieces-817421/204273389 something like that should work for you, just estimate your anticipated load and size accordingly
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Dec 10, 2022 14:52
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Re: Xmas light chat Get yourself one of these https://www.amazon.com/LightKeeper-...749495552&psc=1 It's literally voodoo magic, but it somehow actually works about half the time.
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Dec 10, 2022 16:26
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NoSpoon posted:Can’t you just use the stud finder on the opposite side of the wall and measure back to a door or something? I did try this. The other side of the wall (which was previously an external-facing wall) has a layer of foam insulation an inch thick between drywall and stud. So the studfinder is very unreliable on that side as well, but still better than the opposite side. Should have made a figure to begin with:  I measured, and the wall in the add-on room that faces the living room is two inches closer to you than the matching wall in the laundry room. Bobulus fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Dec 10, 2022 |
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Dec 10, 2022 19:21
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Is the optimal height of the top of a toilet flange 1/4" above the finished floor?
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Dec 11, 2022 02:04
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I have a mirror that weighs about 37 pounds. I'm not allowed to drill anchors into walls and studs according to my lease, but hangers that leave small holes I can spackle and paint are OK with the landlord. The mirror has a wire to hang it and I want to be extra safe, is there anything wrong with using a pair of 35lb or 45lb 3M Claw hooks level, equidistant from the center of the mirror, and on opposite sides of a stud as long as I make sure to hook them with the wire at the same time?
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Dec 11, 2022 05:35
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You can spackle and paint anchor-holes just fine 
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Dec 11, 2022 05:43
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Bobulus posted:I did try this. The other side of the wall (which was previously an external-facing wall) has a layer of foam insulation an inch thick between drywall and stud. So the studfinder is very unreliable on that side as well, but still better than the opposite side. What is the siding made of? If it's like half inch or 3/4" solid wood or hardiboard then I'd just get screws long enough and mount into that, don't worry about stud finding. Unless these shelves you want to put up are for your bowling ball collection.
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Dec 11, 2022 06:30
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Bobulus posted:I did try this. The other side of the wall (which was previously an external-facing wall) has a layer of foam insulation an inch thick between drywall and stud. So the studfinder is very unreliable on that side as well, but still better than the opposite side. Your house is fuxx0red 
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Dec 11, 2022 13:08
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GWBBQ posted:I have a mirror that weighs about 37 pounds. I'm not allowed to drill anchors into walls and studs according to my lease, but hangers that leave small holes I can spackle and paint are OK with the landlord. The mirror has a wire to hang it and I want to be extra safe, is there anything wrong with using a pair of 35lb or 45lb 3M Claw hooks level, equidistant from the center of the mirror, and on opposite sides of a stud as long as I make sure to hook them with the wire at the same time? Drill in anchors & spackle them over when you leave. I do not trust 3M stickies to hold it, no matter what they say they can hold. Keep in mind that they adhere to the paint, so you're betting your mirror, and possibly your health, on how well some goon prepped the walls of a rental after the last tenant moved out.
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Dec 11, 2022 16:05
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Claw hooks aren't stickies. I've never had a chance to use them but I've wondered.
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Dec 11, 2022 16:58
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alnilam posted:You can spackle and paint anchor-holes just fine PainterofCrap posted:Drill in anchors & spackle them over when you leave.  As much as I love snap toggles, my landlord said no. I'm going to double-check and hope there's a stud right where I want it; I can do a hook with a couple of 4" wood screws. If not, I'll screw in a couple of short pieces of Z bar to the nearest studs. Happiness Commando posted:Claw hooks aren't stickies. I've never had a chance to use them but I've wondered. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 11, 2022 |
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Dec 11, 2022 21:17
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I've done this plenty of times on plenty of 100 old walls of awful textured lath and plaster. You don't have to go full toggle bolt, a couple of heavy duty anchors like these are fine and will leave a sub-1/2" hole that nobody will ever notice after some spackle (or better yet, plaster patching compound) and paint. You only need to worry about texture matching with big holes like the size of a junction box. That's just my opinion and experience, if you're not comfortable risking it then that's fine
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Dec 11, 2022 21:31
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So a few months back out doorbell started ringing spontaneously in the middle of the night, so I disconnected the in-wall transformer/chime unit from the main power to shut it up. I'm tired of living without a doorbell, so I'd like to try and tackle this. Am I just prying the cover off the wall here if I want to look at the wiring to the button itself?
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Dec 11, 2022 22:14
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JPrime posted:So a few months back out doorbell started ringing spontaneously in the middle of the night, so I disconnected the in-wall transformer/chime unit from the main power to shut it up. I'm tired of living without a doorbell, so I'd like to try and tackle this. Yup. You might try seeing if the ring around the button itself is a retaining thing - perhaps threaded 2-3 threads deep onto something. I would start there but give up quickly.
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Dec 11, 2022 22:42
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I’d also suggest spraying a little wd-40 around the plate first because it probably hasn’t budged since the 70s
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Dec 11, 2022 22:45
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Opopanax posted:I’d also suggest spraying a little wd-40 around the plate first because it probably hasn’t budged since the 70s thankfully in this case our house was built in 2013, so only close to a decade of baking in the arizona sun
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Dec 11, 2022 23:20
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The button was held on by like a springy clip inside a tube inside the stucco, all the wiring to it looks ok. Looking at the chime unit, there is a bit of copper wire stuck in one of the low voltage holes, presumably from when I was in a hurry to get the thing to shut the gently caress up. Do tools exist to fish that out? Also, the low voltage side has like these...buttons? or something near where the wire goes but I have no clue how it is suppose to be operated:
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Dec 11, 2022 23:57
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JPrime posted:The button was held on by like a springy clip inside a tube inside the stucco, all the wiring to it looks ok. Looking at the chime unit, there is a bit of copper wire stuck in one of the low voltage holes, presumably from when I was in a hurry to get the thing to shut the gently caress up. Do tools exist to fish that out? Also, the low voltage side has like these...buttons? or something near where the wire goes but I have no clue how it is suppose to be operated: You push those to release the spring clips that hold the wires in. 3 and 4 are used to daisy chain PrimeChime units, there should be nothing in anything but 1 and 2 of the front door. Either that piece of wire is shorting contacts and causing the problem or something inside is broken. Ideally, start by shutting off the breaker to line voltage. Disconnect the low voltage from the front door, turn it upside down, hold all 4 spring clips of each set, and smack it on the side a few times and see if anything rattles around and falls out. If that doesn't fix it, here's the same unit for under $40 that ships from Arizona so it shouldn't take too long to get to you https://www.ebay.com/itm/185682141513
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Dec 12, 2022 01:55
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Looks like I'm going with z bar for the mirror, the picture hanger wire that was on it when I found it at Goodwill snapped and given the crunching, I don't trust the eye hooks to not shred the frame.
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Dec 12, 2022 03:35
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Looking to do a full house surge protector. I've had a fridge and a computer monitor get fried in the short time we've lived at our house. What's the best option? Talked to an electrician about it yesterday and he suggested it's pretty easy and I could do it myself (not sure why he didn't want to make easy money) if you do the kind that replace 2 breakers in the box. E: I have Siemens qp breakers. Is something like this the best bet? Looks like it's a one wire install after moving whatever is on top of the box down. Not sure how effective it is vs other options though. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens...A065P/314210128 Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Dec 13, 2022 |
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Dec 13, 2022 11:56
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Suburban Dad posted:Talked to an electrician about it yesterday and he suggested it's pretty easy and I could do it myself (not sure why he didn't want to make easy money) IME if a pro comes onsite and says "It's easy enough that you can do it" it usually means that the job isn't worth the time investment on their end. Yeah, they could spend 30 minutes doing a simple job and make $100, but that 30 min could be better spent going to another customer with a $300 job. Again, IME, the electricians I've worked with have charged by the job, not by the hour.
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Dec 13, 2022 15:00
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Suburban Dad posted:Looking to do a full house surge protector. I've had a fridge and a computer monitor get fried in the short time we've lived at our house. What's the best option? Talked to an electrician about it yesterday and he suggested it's pretty easy and I could do it myself (not sure why he didn't want to make easy money) if you do the kind that replace 2 breakers in the box. Post a picture of your box if you want specifics, but yeah assuming you have 2 slots next to each other free you kill the main, verify it's off on both poles, jam that sucker on there, run the neutral to your neutral bar, and turn the panel back on.
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Dec 13, 2022 15:58
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Your house is fuxx0red Yeah, pretty much. Ended up getting lucky and peeking above the drop-ceiling, I found unpatched drywall screws that let me know where the studs were. Thanks for the ideas, all.
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Dec 13, 2022 16:24
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H110Hawk posted:Post a picture of your box if you want specifics, but yeah assuming you have 2 slots next to each other free you kill the main, verify it's off on both poles, jam that sucker on there, run the neutral to your neutral bar, and turn the panel back on. It's this. Whole-house surge protectors that fit like a breaker are so easy to install that there's no reason not to have one.
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Dec 13, 2022 16:45
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Not sure where to else post this. I was thinking of getting an air filter / purifier to help with the dust in my apartment, particularly in the high-traffic room that is also my WFH zone. They're expensive enough that I feel I should seek out some information about getting a good and quiet one and learn about the qualities they have, if possible.
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Dec 14, 2022 15:48
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Magnetic North posted:Not sure where to else post this. I was thinking of getting an air filter / purifier to help with the dust in my apartment, particularly in the high-traffic room that is also my WFH zone. They're expensive enough that I feel I should seek out some information about getting a good and quiet one and learn about the qualities they have, if possible. Buddy have I got the air purifier for you. I am a Austin Air cultist. Sit down before you look at the price. If you have a heart condition you might want to have your medication handy. Back? Neat. They are commercial units, 5 year warranty, no stupid hand waiving around what or how much they filter, no lights, beeping, other bullshit. No monthly/quarterly overpriced filter changes. They keep my house smoke smell free during wildfire season in Southern California. Warranty claim process works perfectly. You call and press like 2 on the short IVR and a person in New York picks up who is just an office worker there and helps you out. No bullshit. I own 2 of these units now and the second one came with its motor off balance and I had a new one 5 days later. Plus they look hilarious with giant googly eyes on them. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Dec 14, 2022 |
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Dec 14, 2022 16:11
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