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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

melon cat posted:

If you had to choose ONE singular tool for cutting wood and being stuck with it on a deserted island what would that tool be?

Asking because I might be living in a smaller space temporarily but still want to continue doing some woodworking. And I can’t run power tools where I’ll be staying.

Japanese pull saw, maybe? Ryoba saw?

How small are we talking?

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Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut

PokeJoe posted:

You can really get a lot done with a pull saw, a power drill, some chisels, sandpaper, and most importantly of all, gumption



Gumption? Nick Offerman fan spotted (then again in woodworking, aren't we all?)

On that note, he has a really good point in that every tool is basically a chisel. A plane is a chisel in an angle holding device. A saw is a piece of metal with a series of chisels on an edge. Cant say I could have one size, but it's be hard to take anything other than a set of chisels.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

melon cat posted:

If you had to choose ONE singular tool for cutting wood and being stuck with it on a deserted island what would that tool be?

Asking because I might be living in a smaller space temporarily but still want to continue doing some woodworking. And I can’t run power tools where I’ll be staying.

Japanese pull saw, maybe? Ryoba saw?

So, this is more or less where I'm at now. Major life/career change, but it meant that I lost access to workshop and are now in a condo.
I've bought a Ryoba saw, (And a Japanese block plane) and while there will be some powertool usage, it will be limited to only when I can't avoid it.

First project will be a new general work/hobby desk:



2x4's, some generic laminated shelf panels.
Cabinet will be a later project and will require power tools (but couldn't resist adding it as I went through the design)

Next up will be a workbench/saw horse thing. Small enough that I can move around, heavy enough that it's stable.

Again, basic dimensional lumber, although I suspect I might need a power planer for that (but I'll try without).

I think the real key to this is dust management, so I will be splashing on one of the Festool HEPA dust collection units and a couple of the Ikea air cleaners, as they're apparently decent and affordable.

Fortaleza
Feb 21, 2008

Re: drawer front chat: I’m a big fan of inset ones, the gap is like free dark inlay.

Just started wrapping up a miter station project with 22 of ‘em. Wound up with only two truly messed up ones! I’ll put rarely-used stuff on those I guess





Countertop’s got a beeswax/turpentine/boiled linseed oil finish on it, still drying so I can’t put the router fence back on yet. Drawer fronts are two coats of milk paint then a layer of boiled linseed oil for a smidge of protection, super happy with how the color came out.

Been meaning to make a thread for the shop, been more than 2.5 years in the making now but I keep forgetting

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Wait what happened to Baltic birch availability? Was it all coming from Russia or something?

As a finn, we did get a lot of lumber from the russians yeah.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Fortaleza posted:

Re: drawer front chat: I’m a big fan of inset ones, the gap is like free dark inlay.

Just started wrapping up a miter station project with 22 of ‘em. Wound up with only two truly messed up ones! I’ll put rarely-used stuff on those I guess





Countertop’s got a beeswax/turpentine/boiled linseed oil finish on it, still drying so I can’t put the router fence back on yet. Drawer fronts are two coats of milk paint then a layer of boiled linseed oil for a smidge of protection, super happy with how the color came out.

Been meaning to make a thread for the shop, been more than 2.5 years in the making now but I keep forgetting

Beautiful job

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
My kingdom for a wall in my shop longer than 7ft. I have plenty of floor space so I can't complain too much but it's basically a U with lots of doorways.

Love the color for those drawers. I really need to get around to painting the fronts on my drill press cart. I put them on to do a "test fit" two years ago and welp.

My desert island tool would probably be a ryoba. So versatile, easy to use with awkward work holding options. If you're only using hand tools dust isn't as big a factor, the worst dust is going to come from sanding (which you can only do so much of by hand). A regular household vacuum cleaner would be fine.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



NomNomNom posted:

My kingdom for a wall in my shop longer than 7ft. I have plenty of floor space so I can't complain too much but it's basically a U with lots of doorways.

Love the color for those drawers. I really need to get around to painting the fronts on my drill press cart. I put them on to do a "test fit" two years ago and welp.

My desert island tool would probably be a ryoba. So versatile, easy to use with awkward work holding options. If you're only using hand tools dust isn't as big a factor, the worst dust is going to come from sanding (which you can only do so much of by hand). A regular household vacuum cleaner would be fine.

Your shop is your kingdom, REJECTED!

If it were a single tool, I'd go for a high quality razor sharp Swedish hand axe and bookmark Roy Underhill on my desert island high speed internet device.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

melon cat posted:

If you had to choose ONE singular tool for cutting wood and being stuck with it on a deserted island what would that tool be?

A knife

I got my first pocket knife when I was 12, and I'm only ever without one when I'm traveling by plane.

I like to tell people who are vaguely thinking about woodworking that unlike a lot of other hobbies, you can get started without any sort of workshop or work space, as long as there's somewhere you're willing to get a few shavings, because whittling is woodworking. Everything else is just a matter of scaling up a bit in terms of specific tools, workholding, and flat surfaces you need for a given project. But you can start with a sharp edge and a handheld chunk of wood and actually make things.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

melon cat posted:

If you had to choose ONE singular tool for cutting wood and being stuck with it on a deserted island what would that tool be?

Asking because I might be living in a smaller space temporarily but still want to continue doing some woodworking. And I can’t run power tools where I’ll be staying.

Japanese pull saw, maybe? Ryoba saw?

is that smaller space in a larger town that'd have some kind of co-op/makerspace. a tiny space where you can't run power tools doesn't sound like it's gonna be a cool place to work even if you technically match those requirements.

I did a fair bit through college with a drill, dovetail saw, knife, and one of those lovely bolt-on drill press stands in my dorm but I didn't really get along with my roommates

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Dec 9, 2022

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Stultus Maximus posted:

How small are we talking?
Like no "storage space for anything" small. Maybe a dedicated corner of a medium-sized living room plus a small backyard deck during the nicer months.

Pretty heckin small

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

is that smaller space in a larger town that'd have some kind of co-op/makerspace.
Unfortunately not an option. It's a very remote area.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

melon cat posted:

Like no "storage space for anything" small. Maybe a dedicated corner of a medium-sized living room plus a small backyard deck during the nicer months.

Pretty heckin small

Unfortunately not an option. It's a very remote area.

When I was reduced to that kind of space I took up sewing.

Looking back, woodcarving could also have been an option.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Knitting or crochet would also be good options, yeah. All you need is some needles and your yarn balls.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I got really lucky with a Craigslist pick, a guy was giving away the 36" fence rails so I took the opportunity to upgrade my "premium" fence to the t-glide.

So much beefier

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
That saw setup is such a dream of mine currently.

I reinforced the back of the bench and notched in a 2x6 support to join the back legs together. I’m just glueing up a front leg to go under where the vise is. Clamped the table top flat so it doesn’t sag with the cut apron.


I also picked up entirely too much wood for $150usd to be used over Christmas break for my 10’ table.



I got 60’ worth of 5/4 oak glue lam for my table top. Thinking 36” wide and doubled up for thickness. Should be a little better than doubled up 3/4” plywood.


Got a poo poo load of thicker short stuff for legs.



My garage has a very strong smell of oak now.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Whether that is good or not depends if it is red or white oak.

Whiskey or burnt hair?

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
Most likely red, but I couldn’t buy two sheets of generic 3/4” sanded plywood from Home Depot here in Canada for that. The guy was selling a trailer and all this wood was on it in his garage. It was kind of a “take it all” deal.

I wanted to build one of those beautiful Roubo benches, but I also need to be realistic with what I’m actually going to use this for (a more useful solution to most people’s kayak carts in their garage).

The 10.5-11’ long laminated sections is what I was after to make a 3pc top from. The rest of the stuff I figured I’d use for some other garage-based projects as I need a ton of storage sorted out. I also wanted some cheap hardwood to mess around with over the next couple weeks. Tool sharpening stuff is next on the list now as well.


Edit: the laminated sections are tractor trailer offcuts from a builder. I figured those would make a pretty solid rear end table top.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 11, 2022

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Sockington posted:

Most likely red, but I couldn’t buy two sheets of generic 3/4” sanded plywood from Home Depot here in Canada for that. The guy was selling a trailer and all this wood was on it in his garage. It was kind of a “take it all” deal.

I wanted to build one of those beautiful Roubo benches, but I also need to be realistic with what I’m actually going to use this for (a more useful solution to most people’s kayak carts in their garage).

The 10.5-11’ long laminated sections is what I was after to make a 3pc top from. The rest of the stuff I figured I’d use for some other garage-based projects as I need a ton of storage sorted out. I also wanted some cheap hardwood to mess around with over the next couple weeks. Tool sharpening stuff is next on the list now as well.


Edit: the laminated sections are tractor trailer offcuts from a builder. I figured those would make a pretty solid rear end table top.

They will be far more stable than oak has the reputation for, so that's good. It looks like mostly white to me, but probably a mix. Idk why you want to double that, it's going to be plenty stout and those laminated shorts are going to look sorta funny doubled up. Eh, maybe not, they might be fine. Put a few together for grins. Nice grab.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I chopped up that cherry/pine slab into some fun angles and glued and screwed it back together for a front leg that supports the top. I need to recut some pieces for the bench top around the vise as the bottom panels slightly shifted position when I glued them to the top and bolted it tight. It’s not much on each side but it’ll be an annoying gap to look at forever.


I want to add some shelving again below the bench that will tie the legs together but the bench is feeling plenty stiff again after chomping that apron piece out for the vise.

AK-47
Jul 10, 2001


Hey woodworking thread, I got a pretty simple question for you all about the best way to save my work desk.

I have a butcher block desktop I got from Ikea 3-ish years ago that I use as my work computer desk. Along one of the long seams where the wood was joined together it has started splitting apart as if the adhesive gave out. The bottom of the table has metal banding screwed in perpendicular to the wood to hold everything together so it wont just fall apart. Now to my question, I was thinking of just filling the crack with wood glue and clamping it until it dries. Is this gonna be the easiest/best fix or is there a better way I'm not thinking of? I don't have access to many tools so any repair needs to be fairly simple in execution. Thanks for your help/thoughts

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

That may or may not work, depending on what was holding the wood together before. A "proper" fix IMO would be splitting the crack open completely and sanding/shaving off whatever glue is in there, so you can glue and clamp fresh wood to fresh wood; but you may or may not have the space or tools to do that.

The split shouldn't be happening in the first place unless the wood's being subjected to changes in humidity that might be unusual indoors. Are you in a particularly humid or dry environment? Is the tabletop being flexed in some way?

AK-47
Jul 10, 2001


Leperflesh posted:

That may or may not work, depending on what was holding the wood together before. A "proper" fix IMO would be splitting the crack open completely and sanding/shaving off whatever glue is in there, so you can glue and clamp fresh wood to fresh wood; but you may or may not have the space or tools to do that.

The split shouldn't be happening in the first place unless the wood's being subjected to changes in humidity that might be unusual indoors. Are you in a particularly humid or dry environment? Is the tabletop being flexed in some way?

I would probably be able to split it apart and re-glue/clamp was just hoping I could maybe halfass it but I want this to last quite a while longer so I'll probably just go ahead and do that.

I moved the desk from TX to WA but other than that nothing crazy. It's always been in an air conditioned house being used as a laptop workstation with some monitors and random desk junk on it. No flexing is visible, I think its probably a poor glue/craftsmanship issue as the split has been happening slowly over a long time but is now almost halfway across the length of the desktop so I want to get it fixed up now. At least this gives me time/excuse to finally sand it down and stain/seal it properly.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

OK, so having done this with a cutting board at a much smaller scale: it can be very challenging if you start shaving/sanding in the gap, to keep the two pieces perfectly straight & parallel so they'll actually join back together. Get a long straightedge, take your time, if you are planing the surfaces take long thin strokes across the whole length of the wood, and keep stopping and re-testing the fit. Otherwise you could wind up creating a big gap that you can't close even with clamps. If you can get away with just a very light sanding across both surfaces that might be best. It all kind of depends on how much glue you find in there. Take photos and show us if you have doubts.

Depending on direction you may need some honkin' big clamps, too. A 4' pipe clamp is expensive enough that you may want to price out tools or see if you can borrow some before you commit.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



AK-47 posted:

Hey woodworking thread, I got a pretty simple question for you all about the best way to save my work desk.

I have a butcher block desktop I got from Ikea 3-ish years ago that I use as my work computer desk. Along one of the long seams where the wood was joined together it has started splitting apart as if the adhesive gave out. The bottom of the table has metal banding screwed in perpendicular to the wood to hold everything together so it wont just fall apart. Now to my question, I was thinking of just filling the crack with wood glue and clamping it until it dries. Is this gonna be the easiest/best fix or is there a better way I'm not thinking of? I don't have access to many tools so any repair needs to be fairly simple in execution. Thanks for your help/thoughts

Entirely up to you if you feel you can live with it, but it's not a good fix. The banding sounds like it will keep it together. If you want to do it "more right".... Do you have access to a circular saw with enough oomph in its britches to rip along that joint? Any functional straightedge would be a very good idea. And hopefully there are no cutnails or other metal fasteners hidden in the wood. Then gluing up the new surface and clamping is a much better call.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Oh, yeah good call Mambold. If the gap is still narrower than the kerf on a circular saw, you can basically create two parallel fresh surfaces by slicing it open with a saw.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


AK-47 posted:

Hey woodworking thread, I got a pretty simple question for you all about the best way to save my work desk.

I have a butcher block desktop I got from Ikea 3-ish years ago that I use as my work computer desk. Along one of the long seams where the wood was joined together it has started splitting apart as if the adhesive gave out. The bottom of the table has metal banding screwed in perpendicular to the wood to hold everything together so it wont just fall apart. Now to my question, I was thinking of just filling the crack with wood glue and clamping it until it dries. Is this gonna be the easiest/best fix or is there a better way I'm not thinking of? I don't have access to many tools so any repair needs to be fairly simple in execution. Thanks for your help/thoughts
Just fill it with epoxy. You can warm the epoxy up before you mix it in front of an incandescent light bulb or similar and it will become much thinner and flow down in the crack more easily. Put masking tape on both sides of the crack. You should be able to clean off the excess epoxy with a razor blade when it’s still sort of soft and but no longer liquid.

Thin superglue with accelerant can be a good option too if it’s a hairline crack, and the thicker gel superglue will do okay if it’s bigger and you don’t want to mess with epoxy. Cleanup will be much easier in all cases if you wax the tabletop around the crack with paste wax or beeswax or w/e. So the glue or epoxy won’t stick.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Yeah, a pic will help the hivemind determine the optimal solution.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I'm thinking about getting a Domino 500. I know other tools can do its job, but I don't have that much time to spend in the garage. I want to get things done quickly. I have the money. What I wonder about is how precipitously the value of a Domino machine will drop when clones become available. Do other Festool products retain their value pretty well, or is it just the Domino? Does the track saw stay expensive on the second hand market even though alternatives exist?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I've never seen second hand festool anything for less than 80% of msrp

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

You're buying it for exactly the right reason. You have more money than time.

I think they same way when I sell something... I'll take a 50% loss on what I could have resold this for just to minimize the interactions I have to have with facebook marketplace people. But no, you historically lose very little on reselling festool.

pseudanonymous
Aug 30, 2008

When you make the second entry and the debits and credits balance, and you blow them to hell.
Does anyone know good resources for shop set up and planning.

I have a huge garage - 18' by 21' so about 380 sq feet I want to slowly turn into a woodshop. I also want to put in some good dust capture and vent it outside, so I'm thinking to make a long worktable along one wall with my miter saw and then maybe one of those systems where you can pull up some other tools or rotate them down so you can still use the miter saw with full length boards.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

pseudanonymous posted:

Does anyone know good resources for shop set up and planning.

I have a huge garage - 18' by 21' so about 380 sq feet I want to slowly turn into a woodshop. I also want to put in some good dust capture and vent it outside, so I'm thinking to make a long worktable along one wall with my miter saw and then maybe one of those systems where you can pull up some other tools or rotate them down so you can still use the miter saw with full length boards.

Check out Jackman Works on YouTube for some ideas. My daughter turned me on to him through her Making Fun show.

https://youtube.com/@JackmanWorks

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Festool is firmly established as a brand that people who make their living off their tools use, and those tend to hold their value pretty decently as long as they've not been run ragged. Once the patents expire other brands in that category may release their take on the Domino, but taking the comparison between a Festool and a Makita track saw as an example, they'll probably be somewhat cheaper, but not hugely so. It's too much niche a tool for the Horror Freight-bracket brands it feels, and I wouldn't trust those to last any time at all if they did. So if you can afford it you might as well stick to the old "buy once, cry once"-adage.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
There are already companies trying to make something in the ballpark of the Domino. Jessem has some kind of jig that uses a cordless drill to carve the mortise. Rockler has that system with the overlapping dowel holes. Triton has made a couple attempts at a Domino competitor. As far as I can tell none of them are even close to the Domino. But it does lead me to believe that when the patents expire there will be a number of tool companies getting into the sector.

But yeah, the cheaper ones will probably require a bunch of fiddlin' to get to work properly, and that isn't what I want.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



PBCrunch posted:

There are already companies trying to make something in the ballpark of the Domino. Jessem has some kind of jig that uses a cordless drill to carve the mortise. Rockler has that system with the overlapping dowel holes. Triton has made a couple attempts at a Domino competitor. As far as I can tell none of them are even close to the Domino. But it does lead me to believe that when the patents expire there will be a number of tool companies getting into the sector.

But yeah, the cheaper ones will probably require a bunch of fiddlin' to get to work properly, and that isn't what I want.

Forums user Hypnolobster built a 3-planar jig for a router that does all a Domino does and probably more, as I recall. A good 100 or so pages ago...maybe someone has it bookmarked, if you're interested. It was a thing of beauty, imo.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Think you're talking about a pantorouter, which is awesome and does more joinery than just floating tenons, but is a very large and cumbersome im comparison to a domino. Also very expensive to buy ready to use, and not easy to make.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




How would you go about making a gavel in the picture below? All I can think of is to turn the gavel, cut it in half crosswise, then insert the two halves into the brass ring and secure them with epoxy.

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Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

SkunkDuster posted:

How would you go about making a gavel in the picture below? All I can think of is to turn the gavel, cut it in half crosswise, then insert the two halves into the brass ring and secure them with epoxy.



I think they cut the brass from a flat sheet and then tack or weld it together in a ring next to where the handle is attached on it.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Matthias's slot mortiser functions as a domino.

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A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

SkunkDuster posted:

How would you go about making a gavel in the picture below? All I can think of is to turn the gavel, cut it in half crosswise, then insert the two halves into the brass ring and secure them with epoxy.



Generally commercial products don't use brass tubing when they could possibly get away with say wrapping a sheet around a wooden dowel. Bit harder to engrave or punch a hole for a handle in, for one.

In the home shop if you didn't care about that you could just have one end of the wood screw on yeah

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Dec 17, 2022

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