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Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I finally had a chance to get those “Chestnut” boards out to have an eyeball at them - and by that I mean your eyeballs in this thread that know what they are looking for.

The first two boards were planed when I got them with a third left original. First one sitting on my laminated oak panels.






The other planed one


The original finish one





Did I luck out on this pickup? I see the ring pores and stuff but I’m not a wood guessing expert by the slightest.
It was mentioned before that I should find a rich mark for these and I’m not even sure I have a use for them that I couldn’t get with any other wood.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Dec 17, 2022

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I haven't seen/worked with a lot of chestnut, but that definitely does look like chestnut from my limited experience. It also looks a whole lot like very tight grained ash, but that's basically what chestnut looks like. I've had to fake wormy chestnut before and ash with a really like brown stain worked well.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



I just put the first coat of poly on some candle holder Christmas presents I made.
It was a woodcraft magazine project a couple of months ago and I liked the look.



Left is walnut, right is maple (curly I think)

The epoxy glows when you put a tea light in them.


I also made a barrelhead display for my blantons horses. I just need to find blantons now.


I also made a pipe out of a piece of burl I found in some firewood.

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Dec 18, 2022

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


For anyone following along, I finally finished my plant case last night





PokeJoe posted:

Yo I finally got around to checking out the modeling recommendations and this is the one I liked best to just sanity check my simple project, thanks bigly



Turned out great! Glad I 3D modeled it

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

PokeJoe posted:

For anyone following along, I finally finished my plant case last night





Turned out great! Glad I 3D modeled it

I can't help but hear phonk when I see purple lights


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-sQRS-Lc9k


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMa_0jAlouE

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I had this opening in my garage ceiling forever that I finally got around to making something to close up. Some scraps and a set of drawer slides has my access sorted now. I’ll pickup some some roofing steel to use for the actual ceiling but needed this fabbed for the cutout.


I just push on that 2” wide strip of ply to open it.


Attacking it with some kind of formal plan would have been nicer but it’s just garage poo poo so make it work.

Tossed together a left over router template and some scraps to make a little cleated holder for my squares since I’ve been just puttering around cleaning things up.


Still have to get back to that bench vise that I’ve been weeks on fine tuning but hate the mess I’ve currently made for myself.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

AFewBricksShy posted:

I just put the first coat of poly on some candle holder Christmas presents I made.
It was a woodcraft magazine project a couple of months ago and I liked the look.



Left is walnut, right is maple (curly I think)

The epoxy glows when you put a tea light in them.


This is totally my wife’s kinda jam. That looks fantastic

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man





Prairie burr oak slab with d fir carcass. Finished with blo and bee's wax.

e. leaving the saw marks was a conscious choice, by the way. I scraped them so they're not splintery but I like the contrast especially since this is a slab with a bit of history.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I like it. Sturdy, the slab is cool, it'll last forever and be a family heirloom.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
Cutting board round 1000.


https://imgur.com/a/gEzIIiz

I have some micro cracks in the end grain and some lovely glue joints. Should I fill these with something prior to soaking with mineral oil? I could only see the defects after sanding.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yes, at least for the failed glue joint. Optional for the check and I'd probably leave the knot, although in theory it's a reservoir for bacteria.

I would fill with epoxy and then re-sand to smooth. You can also mix wood glue with some sawdust, for a more natural look. Either of these will still stand out when you finish with the mineral oil, the sawdust one maybe a bit less than the epoxy.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

Yes, at least for the failed glue joint. Optional for the check and I'd probably leave the knot, although in theory it's a reservoir for bacteria.

I would fill with epoxy and then re-sand to smooth. You can also mix wood glue with some sawdust, for a more natural look. Either of these will still stand out when you finish with the mineral oil, the sawdust one maybe a bit less than the epoxy.

This is why I've started using coloured epoxy for small repairs like this. I'd rather control how something stands out than have something stand out against my will.

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.
I got a special request from Santa that my niece needed a house for her large stuffed bunny. I had just enough terrible vietnam plywood lying around to make this from a reference picture (still to be painted):



It’s amazing how hard it is to make what is essentially a large box when you can’t cut anything straight or square for a drat. I swear I don’t have a true straight reference anywhere in my garage and even when triple checking measurements I somehow always cut one side a little bit off.

Also the extremely keen eye might note where I ran out of trim for the windows and sides, and had to cut plywood to fit the same size, which is always an interesting exercise when you only have thin strips left and have to cut them into a thinner strip without a table saw or bandsaw or something.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Elysium posted:

I got a special request from Santa that my niece needed a house for her large stuffed bunny. I had just enough terrible vietnam plywood lying around to make this from a reference picture (still to be painted):



It’s amazing how hard it is to make what is essentially a large box when you can’t cut anything straight or square for a drat. I swear I don’t have a true straight reference anywhere in my garage and even when triple checking measurements I somehow always cut one side a little bit off.

Also the extremely keen eye might note where I ran out of trim for the windows and sides, and had to cut plywood to fit the same size, which is always an interesting exercise when you only have thin strips left and have to cut them into a thinner strip without a table saw or bandsaw or something.

That's impressive, I have to say. Maybe Santa should bring such a good uncle a bandsaw or tablesaw.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?
I'm looking at pulling the trigger on one of the Felder Hammer A3 planer jointers. There are a few things I like about it and a few that I don't and want to get any second opinions from people who have used them or the similair units from Grizzly, Rikon, Jet, etc. Also not sure how I feel about a non-parallelogram jointer.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Elysium posted:

It’s amazing how hard it is to make what is essentially a large box when you can’t cut anything straight or square for a drat. I swear I don’t have a true straight reference anywhere in my garage and even when triple checking measurements I somehow always cut one side a little bit off.

For poo poo like this I only use measurements for the first piece that is going to fit a particular dimension, and then I use the first piece to mark all subsequent pieces since I don't give a poo poo if they're all 11", just that they're all the same. The house looks great, though, so you must be doing well enough.

Also carefully checking and getting rid of every square I owned that wasn't actually square made my life better (more of them were hosed than I expected)—would recommend.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It's been hovering around 45 out during the day last couple days, dipping to 40ish at night. I did a glue up of cedar with titebond 3 yesterday in the garage which should have been at least a little warmer than outside, although it's not heated. Then I looked at the bottle and it says not to glue below 45 degrees.

How hosed is this glueup if it got down to like 40 while the glue was still tacky?

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



40 and rising seems to be the default for being okay. I think it's because anything less than that can have ice crystals form.

If it didn't drop below 40 you should be okay. Also for what it's worth even on the coldest days, my uninsulated garage rarely gets below 50.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

OK yeah no way did it get cold enough for ice to start forming. The overnight low outside was a flat 40. My garage is probably a couple degrees warmer than outside just due to bleed from the one wall it shares with the house, although that wall is insulated, plus I guess the freezer out there must add a little warmth although it can't have been working very hard last night lol.

This is going to be a stool used in a wet environment (hence the cedar) so I want the glueup to be good.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I've got this sensor in my garage with the base station in my house: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081P63GFB

Eventually I'll probably get more sensors and probably setup something like Home Assistant to track them all, but for now I've got an app on my phone that let's me see the temperature and (importantly) temperature history, so you can really know the answers to these kinds of questions if you think it might come up frequently.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

this is very cold for california and I do own a thermometer I just didn't consider the temp till I had just put on the last clamp and was like hmmm oh it's pretty cold in here isn't it

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

The junk collector posted:

I'm looking at pulling the trigger on one of the Felder Hammer A3 planer jointers. There are a few things I like about it and a few that I don't and want to get any second opinions from people who have used them or the similair units from Grizzly, Rikon, Jet, etc. Also not sure how I feel about a non-parallelogram jointer.

I really like my budget jointer planer combo. I haven't actually checked the coplanerism since I bought it, it was very accurate on delivery, all the wood i throw through it seems straight and square so I have no reason to question or re-check it. I've had it for two years now.

I can only imagine I would like a premium one better than my budget one.

What do you think you won't like about it?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Leperflesh posted:

this is very cold for california and I do own a thermometer I just didn't consider the temp till I had just put on the last clamp and was like hmmm oh it's pretty cold in here isn't it

Is it small enough you can get it somewhere warmer while it's clamped?

I've had glue-ups fail due to cold weather before, so I'm very skittish about them. If it's marginal I'll move it indoors to set.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Deteriorata posted:

Is it small enough you can get it somewhere warmer while it's clamped?

I've had glue-ups fail due to cold weather before, so I'm very skittish about them. If it's marginal I'll move it indoors to set.

Yes, but I'd have to sneak it past my wife, and last night there was no way to do that without drawing suspicion. In the future for non-secret projects that's what I'll do for sure.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I really like my budget jointer planer combo. I haven't actually checked the coplanerism since I bought it, it was very accurate on delivery, all the wood i throw through it seems straight and square so I have no reason to question or re-check it. I've had it for two years now.

I can only imagine I would like a premium one better than my budget one.

What do you think you won't like about it?

The two biggest worries I have are having to reset/lower the planer table to put the jointer table back up and that if it does get out of square, what does it take to correct it. Hearing that other people haven't had issues with coplanerism and repeatability is very good. I'm a little worried about the in and outfeed tables being as short as they are compared to traditional jointers and planers though they are long enough for everything that I currently do now, I'm thinking about looking at extensions. The Hammer models only support outfeed extensions because the fence is attached where the infeed table would otherwise attach.

I also find it annoying that on the model I looked at, the locking lever for the planer table would hit the handle of the height crank. That just feels like amateur design. The fence being aluminum means it will be annoying to use my magnetic level with it to get an exact angle.

Mostly, at what these cost, I just want to make sure I don't buy something and then realize I won't be happy with it later. This is very much a buy once cry once endeavor.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

The junk collector posted:

The two biggest worries I have are having to reset/lower the planer table to put the jointer table back up and that if it does get out of square, what does it take to correct it. Hearing that other people haven't had issues with coplanerism and repeatability is very good. I'm a little worried about the in and outfeed tables being as short as they are compared to traditional jointers and planers though they are long enough for everything that I currently do now, I'm thinking about looking at extensions. The Hammer models only support outfeed extensions because the fence is attached where the infeed table would otherwise attach.

I also find it annoying that on the model I looked at, the locking lever for the planer table would hit the handle of the height crank. That just feels like amateur design. The fence being aluminum means it will be annoying to use my magnetic level with it to get an exact angle.

Mostly, at what these cost, I just want to make sure I don't buy something and then realize I won't be happy with it later. This is very much a buy once cry once endeavor.

I hear you, I wanted the Hammer machine, even attended a Felder seminar where I got to use it, but the price was just too much for a hobby guy, I am looking at a Hammer sliding table saw though.

The bed length on the jointer hasn't been a problem for me making furniture sized things. Outfeed on the planer is definitely a complaint, because if I feed something through before removing the previous piece I basically have to dive to catch it before it hits the floor. Also, I have never locked the bed on the planer, it holds its position fine.

The changeover is also nothing, it takes like 30 seconds tops, and having the built-in analog or digital read out makes it super simple in case you forget to mill a part or have to re-mill it...you just have to remember the setting or get into the habit of writing the exact metric thickness on the end-grain.

My biggest complaint with the machine is that in planer mode the top isn't flat, so I can't stack parts as they come out of the planer on it.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

Yes, but I'd have to sneak it past my wife, and last night there was no way to do that without drawing suspicion. In the future for non-secret projects that's what I'll do for sure.

I’m thinking about removing my big shop-sized rolling toolbox from our laundry room and put a Murphy drop down table for this kind of small project stuff. Being across the border in :canada: means I’ve got a little longer cold season for glueing.

I currently just throw some parchment paper on her deep freezer and hope to sneak it back out in a couple of hours or before work in the morning.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I hear you, I wanted the Hammer machine, even attended a Felder seminar where I got to use it, but the price was just too much for a hobby guy, I am looking at a Hammer sliding table saw though.

The bed length on the jointer hasn't been a problem for me making furniture sized things. Outfeed on the planer is definitely a complaint, because if I feed something through before removing the previous piece I basically have to dive to catch it before it hits the floor. Also, I have never locked the bed on the planer, it holds its position fine.

The changeover is also nothing, it takes like 30 seconds tops, and having the built-in analog or digital read out makes it super simple in case you forget to mill a part or have to re-mill it...you just have to remember the setting or get into the habit of writing the exact metric thickness on the end-grain.

My biggest complaint with the machine is that in planer mode the top isn't flat, so I can't stack parts as they come out of the planer on it.

This is all good to hear. I also really liked their table saw while I was the showroom but there's no way I can fit it in my workspace (hence the combo planer jointer). Oh well, one day.
I'll probably spring for the outfeed extension. It can kind of levers on and can be put on the jointer or planer table so it's pretty easy to use and unobtrusive. Feels pricey, but not ~that~ much compared to the rest of it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Leperflesh posted:

It's been hovering around 45 out during the day last couple days, dipping to 40ish at night. I did a glue up of cedar with titebond 3 yesterday in the garage which should have been at least a little warmer than outside, although it's not heated. Then I looked at the bottle and it says not to glue below 45 degrees.

How hosed is this glueup if it got down to like 40 while the glue was still tacky?
I have occasionally had problems with regular titebond, titebond extend, and titebond III in cold weather. You'll know pretty soon-bang a cutoff on the table and it will break at the glueline and the glueline will be real chalky. IIRC TB2 is best for cold weather and IME the most forgiving in general of application conditions.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The junk collector posted:

This is all good to hear. I also really liked their table saw while I was the showroom but there's no way I can fit it in my workspace (hence the combo planer jointer). Oh well, one day.
I'll probably spring for the outfeed extension. It can kind of levers on and can be put on the jointer or planer table so it's pretty easy to use and unobtrusive. Feels pricey, but not ~that~ much compared to the rest of it.
No idea what the price/lead time difference is, but I would also look at SCM/Minimax. They make fantastic machines that just work for a very very long time.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

titebond's labeling says above 47, and generally ime even when labeled otherwise don't trust glues/epoxies/anything involving a polymer reaction below like 70. It's a pain in the rear end since there's like five months out of the year where my workshop gets that hot, but even if it doesn't just fail entirely you run into problems with flow and set times that they rarely really bother to test before sticking it on shelves.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Hmmmm. Well at this point it's glued and screwed and I need to get the feet level and a finish put on (and I just blew out a tearout on one leg leveling a foot gently caress gently caress gently caress) so either the glue joint is good or it isn't but I can't really test it without risking destroying christmas.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

for a christmas gift if it breaks somewhere down the road you can always fix it, just take it as a prompt to find a way to get a heated space outside for future stuff you'll want to cure but don't want to bring in the house for normal woodworking reasons like being huge, smelling like poo poo etc.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah a secret place my wife won't go in or notice, lol

(Next time I'll do drawbore or through tenons with wedges and avoid glue completely)

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Leperflesh posted:

Yeah a secret place my wife won't go in or notice, lol

(Next time I'll do drawbore or through tenons with wedges and avoid glue completely)

That's what garages and workshops are for. It works great when unheated during the parts of the year when you need heat to do good glue ups. Not great when it's warm enough to do glue ups.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


If you can't get the ambient temp up, it helps a lot too if you can keep the glue at room temp and heat up the surfaces to be glued before gluing. Something like a bare 100W incandescent lightbulb under a workbench draped in a bit of plastic sheeting can make a big difference and get surprisingly warm.

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

I'm in the market for a new ROS. I think it's time to buy a nice one as my orders have increased a fair bit this year and Im sick of sanding with a heavy one that makes my hands numb.
Plus the dust collection is a real issue.

Has anyone tried the new 3M Xtract sander? I saw Stumpy Nubs raving about it. The cost is similiar to the Festool ETS EC 125 im also looking at.

Im sure either way I won't regret it but figured I'd ask here before dropping the cash.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Jhet posted:

That's what garages and workshops are for. It works great when unheated during the parts of the year when you need heat to do good glue ups. Not great when it's warm enough to do glue ups.

My wife is a ceramic artist, she's built robots and just ordered a 3d printer. The garage isn't safely secret, unfortunately.

I rounded off the bottoms of the feet to solve the tearout problem and the tung oil is curing now, I had to hide it under the welding table in the garage. It got up to like 55 or 60 in there today and I had the tung oil applied by 1pm so it should be OK overnight, it's not as cold tonight either.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

If you can't get the ambient temp up, it helps a lot too if you can keep the glue at room temp and heat up the surfaces to be glued before gluing. Something like a bare 100W incandescent lightbulb under a workbench draped in a bit of plastic sheeting can make a big difference and get surprisingly warm.

That's a good tip! I have a heat gun so it'd be easy to do that.

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.

keep it down up there! posted:

I'm in the market for a new ROS. I think it's time to buy a nice one as my orders have increased a fair bit this year and Im sick of sanding with a heavy one that makes my hands numb.
Plus the dust collection is a real issue.

Has anyone tried the new 3M Xtract sander? I saw Stumpy Nubs raving about it. The cost is similiar to the Festool ETS EC 125 im also looking at.

Im sure either way I won't regret it but figured I'd ask here before dropping the cash.

Can't speak to the 3M, though it looks a lot like a knock-off Mirka and I know those are quite well regarded. The one thing that stands out compared to the Festool is the lack of detachable/replaceable power cord, which may or may not be an issue for you. I can definitely speak to the quality of the ETS EC 125 - at least with a festool vac on it, the dust collection is frankly incredible. Still have to wipe stuff down after sanding, but the amount of particulates that actually end up in the air is (at least empirically) ridiculously low. I feel like I kick up more dust easing the edges of stuff by hand.

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keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

stabbington posted:

Can't speak to the 3M, though it looks a lot like a knock-off Mirka and I know those are quite well regarded. The one thing that stands out compared to the Festool is the lack of detachable/replaceable power cord, which may or may not be an issue for you. I can definitely speak to the quality of the ETS EC 125 - at least with a festool vac on it, the dust collection is frankly incredible. Still have to wipe stuff down after sanding, but the amount of particulates that actually end up in the air is (at least empirically) ridiculously low. I feel like I kick up more dust easing the edges of stuff by hand.

That's awesome. I do have a Festool dust collector so I may just go that route. Especially nice since I can walk into lee Valley and buy the ETS EC in person. The 3M I'd have to order from the US.

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