|
H110Hawk posted:If you're OK with potentially doing it twice I would yolo it. Would also YOLO, but with textured wallpaper to hide the texture underneath a bit. Also depends on how much it would hurt financially to do it twice.
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2022 18:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 13:25 |
|
|
MrAmazing posted:Would also YOLO, but with textured wallpaper to hide the texture underneath a bit. I was thinking about this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TVMFGLB/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 But then I went and looked at photos in the reviews and welp  Maybe I'll go pick up some of that Zinsser wallpaper removal spray and see if that makes the job easier. I've only ever used a steamer and it's just miserable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2022 18:44
|
|
|
You know what will make it stick... 3m permanent spray glue. But don't mix adhesive solvents like that. And good lord where an appropriate half-face respirator (something-100, you shouldn't smell anything. P100 or voc one or something, read the labels.) it will take the wall off with it. Also the review eyeballs as a semi-gloss painted wall? Perhaps with insufficient dry time? But also Amazon is probably the worst place to buy something like that from - who knows what you're getting. It's probably meant to be a dry location static decal more than wet sticky adhesive.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2022 20:15
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:You know what will make it stick... 3m permanent spray glue. But don't mix adhesive solvents like that. And good lord where an appropriate half-face respirator (something-100, you shouldn't smell anything. P100 or voc one or something, read the labels.) it will take the wall off with it. I mostly just use Amazon to read reviews and see product photos these days, was going to buy it from HD. That photo looks like a textured wall with semi-gloss paint and the review says it fell off within hours, so definitely improper prep. But it also seems like shrinkage after install is a common issue. There is no dry time with this stuff, it's basically thicker textured contact paper that is sticky on one side.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2022 20:36
|
|
|
Push pins in the upper corners
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2022 21:08
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Possibly a dumb question: I live in central Texas. In 2021 we had the arctic storm that put temperatures around here in the teens and even single digits at times. My house had an electrical outage for about 2-3 days and not long after power was restored we had a water outage for about a week. Absolutely miserable. Next week it is predicted to drop into the teens for 2-3 days. I have a similar insert firebox setup. It warms the area of the room around the fireplace pretty well just burning firewood. It’s not gonna heat your house or anything though. The gas line is indeed for a starter. I’d be surprised if just a gas burner puts out as much heat as burning wood.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2022 21:47
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:Maybe I'll go pick up some of that Zinsser wallpaper removal spray and see if that makes the job easier. I've only ever used a steamer and it's just miserable. Here is my trip report after two hours of effort using this stuff on the walls in lieu of the steamer: if you have installed wallpaper in your house, gently caress you
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 00:40
|
|
|
Wallpaper is best replaced by adding drywall, with or without removing the old drywall first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 01:40
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Wallpaper is best replaced by adding drywall, with or without removing the old drywall first. Be a real previous owner, add more wallpaper.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 01:48
|
|
|
I’ll have you know multiple layers of wallpaper are all that’s keeping the plaster of several of my walls up 
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 02:01
|
|
|
Toebone posted:I’ll have you know multiple layers of wallpaper are all that’s keeping the plaster of several of my walls up 
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 03:11
|
|
|
Toebone posted:I’ll have you know multiple layers of wallpaper are all that’s keeping the plaster of several of my walls up We stripped the dining room when we bought the place in 1992 because it was this hideous flocked crap that had a weird velvet inlay so we couldn't paint over it. It took six people two days to remove it from the plaster walls & fill in the battle damage. The plaster then sucked in primer hard enough to create a vortex. Took two gallons of primer for a 14x12x8,6 tall room with 2-windows, three archways and one door. We cheerfully painted over the wall-and ceilingpaper in the other rooms.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 03:34
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:
More like P.O. Crap!
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 04:17
|
|
|
Vim Fuego posted:More like P.O. Crap! 
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 04:22
|
|
|
Do you ventilate all roof spaces or just the attic in a house? I always thought you only did the "highest" roof above the attic, and didn't need to touch the roof portions above the first floor but below the second. I'm maybe explaining it terribly but here's an example (the purple square) of the area in question: Having our roof redone, and they're putting in a bunch of O'Hagin vents above the attic to replace our dormers. They had an extra O'hagin and installed it in a similar spot to that stock image. There is a space above the garage and below the second floor floor, but does that need to be ventilated? I'm wondering if it would be better insulated inside the house without the vent there? Edit: Also, at what point is it (or never) unreasonable to ask for asbestos testing before moving forward with work on the top? It's a 1989 clay/concrete S-Tile roof with some black paper underlayment that seems to just be nailed to the roof and comes/tears right off. Ultimately, my money , my requirements, and I want to avoid dealing with the unknown like we did with our floor tear out last year, but both crews (and other roofing companies) think I'm crazy, and I don't want to be completely unrealistic in what I demand. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Dec 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2022 23:52
|
|
|
We have put wall paper up on a few walls now, its great as an accent However, we did get peel and stick, which if you wanted to take off comes off in one big sheet. Its like giant post it notes. it goes on great on smooth walls, there was no problem. We put it over textured walls, and it immediately fell off. So now the top 6 inches are covered in super 77 spray adhesive, and the rest kind of hangs there. Looks good though!
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 00:29
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:Do you ventilate all roof spaces or just the attic in a house? I always thought you only did the "highest" roof above the attic, and didn't need to touch the roof portions above the first floor but below the second. I'm maybe explaining it terribly but here's an example (the purple square) of the area in question: I'm very interested in your project since I have a similar house built in 1989 in socal. We have dormers where water does in when it rains hard. The roofer recommended o hagin vents as well. For asbestos, I can't help you too much. They may be assuming based on the year your house was built. If you are truly concerned, I'd find an inspector outside your roofer to test independently.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 14:24
|
|
|
oh rly posted:I'm very interested in your project since I have a similar house built in 1989 in socal. We have dormers where water does in when it rains hard. The roofer recommended o hagin vents as well. They've been doing roofs here (also in socal) for 30 years so I asked the on-site crew about the vent location , and they said it's partly based on experience and knowledge of where there's typically a large "space;" it doesn't seem designed, but done on the fly, where they'll cut a small hole in the spot they think they'll need the vent, poke around inside and see if there's a large space to vent or not. I didn't get a technical answer beyond that, though. Regarding the dormers, ours initially had some water infiltration during the heavy rains, too, but we were also told to get rid of them because they're an ingress point for embers which the O-Hagins prevent, and that's a huge bonus.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 17:27
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:Do you ventilate all roof spaces or just the attic in a house? I always thought you only did the "highest" roof above the attic, and didn't need to touch the roof portions above the first floor but below the second. I'm maybe explaining it terribly but here's an example (the purple square) of the area in question: I don't know your local code book. The most common residential code book in the united states requires all attic spaces outside of the thermal envelope to be ventilated. If you roof is inside the thermal envelope (and therefore does not require ventilation) you would figure it out when they went to cut the vent in and found insulation either immediately above the sheathing or under the sheathing (or, rarely, they would find a ventilation channel directly under the sheathing, but in that case they wouldn't be trying to install venting because it would obviously already be vented). Assuming the installer didn't ignore an obvious signal that ventilation isn't required you can assume the roof needs to be ventilated per code. That said, ventilation of the attic is linked to marginal improvement in a small number of failure conditions most common in cold climates and if your builder left some small attic spaces un-ventilated I wouldn't sweat it too much. In my opinion the most important use of attic ventilation is limiting the formation of condensation on the interior side of the roof sheathing caused by moisture migration from the home into the attic, which only really applies in cold climates and is more appropriately solved by limited air flow from the home into the attic through air sealing at the attic floor/ceiling below. quote:Also, at what point is it (or never) unreasonable to ask for asbestos testing before moving forward with work on the top? It's a 1989 clay/concrete S-Tile roof with some black paper underlayment that seems to just be nailed to the roof and comes/tears right off. Ultimately, my money , my requirements, and I want to avoid dealing with the unknown like we did with our floor tear out last year, but both crews (and other roofing companies) think I'm crazy, and I don't want to be completely unrealistic in what I demand. You can always ask. If the contractor doesn't want to do it, bring out a asbestos remediation contractor to sample independently. Nothing about your roof screams asbestos to me, especially given that it was built in 1989. At that point every asbestos roofing material I can think of had been converted to a 'look-a-like' non-asbestos version. That said, I'm not an expert on asbestos and there's a lot I don't know. If $250 of testing will make you feel better, than it's $250 well spent. Even the remediation contractor telling you 'we can't sample that, but it is not asbestos' might be enough to settle your concern.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 17:29
|
|
|
Tezer posted:You can always ask. If the contractor doesn't want to do it, bring out a asbestos remediation contractor to sample independently. Also unless they are destroying the old material (which why would you on a concrete roof?) the asbestos risk is basically nothing to you. It's outdoors and the few tiles that do break/shatter won't produce much asbestos dust, but any that does will blow away. I know that's a bad take but it's so much less than people do indoors all the time because "if we test we know, demo that 70's popcorn ceiling." If the paper has asbestos in it same thing - they're probably going to use a shovel and run it along the decking the scrape it off. Again not much is going to generate asbestos dust, and again it's outside. Once they're done slap on a P100 respirator and blow your whole yard out into the street if you are worried, then strip in the garage and dump your clothes straight into the washing machine. 1989 having new-old-stock of asbestos materials isn't unheard of, but is unlikely if you're in a large tract home as those builders I presume order new in such quantities as to wind up with actual new stock. If they are hucking the tiles into a dumpster and hitting them with a hammer to remove them, sure, test it. Easy enough - get up there and hit one with a hammer to break off a chunk.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 17:41
|
|
|
Went to use the bathroom last night and the door wouldn't close, like it was suddenly tilting wrong in the frame. Closer inspection of the hinges revealed the structural paint was broken and the screws had popped out. Ugh. We are of course having company over. Got out a toy block to use as a wedge, angled the door back up, scraped off the paint with a blunt flathead screw driver, braced myself against the frame and hulked them back in as best I could. Fingers crossed they stay I don't have time to fix it anymore than that.   Root cause was either the earth/house shifting (hello from socal), or more likely a 38lb child riding a train at full speed square onto the frame for the who knows how many'th time and getting exceptionally lucky.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 17:50
|
|
|
If they aren't staying pull them out one by one and shove a toothpick or two in the hole then run the screw back in. If that doesn't work or you need to do things in a hurry a 3" drywall screw through the top hinge should fix you right on up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 17:55
|
|
|
Tezer posted:I don't know your local code book. The most common residential code book in the united states requires all attic spaces outside of the thermal envelope to be ventilated. If you roof is inside the thermal envelope (and therefore does not require ventilation) you would figure it out when they went to cut the vent in and found insulation either immediately above the sheathing or under the sheathing (or, rarely, they would find a ventilation channel directly under the sheathing, but in that case they wouldn't be trying to install venting because it would obviously already be vented). I might have an incomplete idea of an "attic," I just think that room above my top floor below the roof, but admittedly, there is triangular-ish cavity underneath the sloped roof there according to the roofer, which lines up with what you're saying. it was just odd to me because they only did that spot, and not the first floor sloped roof on the other side of the house. Even if there did happen to be water lines running in there, the lowest recorded temp here was something like 23F so not the biggest danger just yet, and if it is outside the building envelope it shouldn't impact indoor comfort. It just seems like they're more into the "art" rather than the "science" part which isn't where I work best, and I'm stuck on Colorado winter mindset. H110Hawk posted:Also unless they are destroying the old material (which why would you on a concrete roof?) the asbestos risk is basically nothing to you. It's outdoors and the few tiles that do break/shatter won't produce much asbestos dust, but any that does will blow away. I know that's a bad take but it's so much less than people do indoors all the time because "if we test we know, demo that 70's popcorn ceiling." If the paper has asbestos in it same thing - they're probably going to use a shovel and run it along the decking the scrape it off. Again not much is going to generate asbestos dust, and again it's outside. Thanks! I think we're fine for now. They're not demolishing anything like that, saving the old tile of course and chucking any broken ones into the dumpster out front, or just cutting one or two to fit. Same with the paper underneath, they're just pulling it up and also chucking it. We are also in a tract home development and they don't seem particularly worried in their t-shirts and ballcaps. I talked to the crew leads and just asked them direct and they said "naw," as well. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Dec 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 17:59
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If they aren't staying pull them out one by one and shove a toothpick or two in the hole then run the screw back in. If that doesn't work or you need to do things in a hurry a 3" drywall screw through the top hinge should fix you right on up. There you go. I thought I might need to toothpicks and wood glue it, wait, drill, drive x3 new things one at a time. So far it's holding and the door swings nicely. Thanks. Might not be obvious in the second picture but everything is flush and snug for now. Thankfully the core of the house is real wood. Mostly hoping to avoid the hardware store for the next few days as I want to murder people any time I have to apply force to a flathead screw. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 18:11
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:I might have an incomplete idea of an "attic," I just think that room above my top floor below the roof, but admittedly, there is triangular-ish cavity underneath the sloped roof there according to the roofer, which lines up with what you're saying. it was just odd to me because they only did that spot, and not the first floor sloped roof on the other side of the house. Even if there did happen to be water lines running in there, the lowest recorded temp here was something like 23F so not the biggest danger just yet, and if it is outside the building envelope it shouldn't impact indoor comfort. It just seems like they're more into the "art" rather than the "science" part which isn't where I work best, and I'm stuck on Colorado winter mindset. Generally, an attic is any space enclosed by roof framing on some of the sides. Attics can be habitable, non-habitable, etc. etc. It's very loose. Is it an open space containing air under a roof? That's an attic, most of the time.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 18:31
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If they aren't staying pull them out one by one and shove a toothpick or two in the hole then run the screw back in. If that doesn't work or you need to do things in a hurry a 3" drywall screw through the top hinge should fix you right on up. This…but get rid of the slotted screws first. Outside of specific (read: decorative or antique) uses, they are a blight.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 20:59
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:This…but get rid of the slotted screws first. Outside of specific (read: decorative or antique) uses, they are a blight. If any fasteners are coming out they are going in the trash and getting replaced with something sane.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 21:08
|
|
|
Looking for some input. My garage rebuild has been a comedy of errors at this point and is months past the expected completion date. Our general contractor is now pressing to schedule the drywall install. We will be insulating the garage ourselves, however, it's now the middle of winter. From what I can tell online drywall mud needs at least 55 degrees for 48 hours after install, and that a wood frame structure really should be brought up to this temperature the day before the work starts. Speaking with the general contractor his plan is to have them bring in a propane heater the day of the install, then run electric heaters for 24 hours after. I've also read that propane heaters shouldn't be used for drywall in cold weather because of the moisture they emit. This plan is bullshit right? I'm trying to get a feel for how hard I can/should push back on this.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 21:14
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:This…but get rid of the slotted screws first. Outside of specific (read: decorative or antique) uses, they are a blight. lol yes, definitely. That was just a "I've got nothing and don't want to go to the hardware store but I need this working" solution.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 21:29
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:If any fasteners are coming out they are going in the trash and getting replaced with something sane. The omitted step was heading to the Mason jar in the garage of misc fasteners and grabbing as many matching replacement ones that you can find.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 21:32
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 22:10
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:The omitted step was heading to the Mason jar in the garage of misc fasteners and grabbing as many matching replacement ones that you can find.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 22:55
|
|
|
Doorchat has got me thinking: is there any obvious reason why cold weather would make our front door stick it gets better in hot weather?. It's wood with many layers of paint, and I can't easily check the hinge screws easily because some idiot installed spring bronze incorrectly so it covers the hinges. There's some ancient termite damage underneath the front door that's been braced and has a metal column underneath about the hinge side of the door. Differential expansion temperature of metal and wood?
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2022 22:58
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:Doorchat has got me thinking: is there any obvious reason why cold weather would make our front door stick it gets better in hot weather?. It's wood with many layers of paint, and I can't easily check the hinge screws easily because some idiot installed spring bronze incorrectly so it covers the hinges. There's some ancient termite damage underneath the front door that's been braced and has a metal column underneath about the hinge side of the door. Differential expansion temperature of metal and wood? Wood expands and contracts as the humidity changes. Doors getting stuck during certain parts of the year is very common.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 00:16
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Wood expands and contracts as the humidity changes. Doors getting stuck during certain parts of the year is very common. Haha yes from personal experience it appears in medium to high humidity areas of USA this affects what seems to be approaching 100% of properties, with at least 1 door that will act funny. At my current place the engineered wood floor warps a fraction of a millimeter and it rubs a tiny bit on the bottom of the door. Doesn't seem to be damaging the finish yet and I think it's been years, so rolling with it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 00:42
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Wood expands and contracts as the humidity changes. Doors getting stuck during certain parts of the year is very common. I guess I just heard most people talk about doors getting stuck in the summer. I live in the midatlantic so it's way more humid then.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 00:56
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:If any fasteners are coming out they are going in the trash and getting replaced with something sane. Whoever gets this house after I die is going to hate having to take apart everything I repaired. I use square drive screws for everything and I live in the US where most homeowners don't have a square drive screwdriver in their Wal-Mart toolkit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 01:26
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:I guess I just heard most people talk about doors getting stuck in the summer. I live in the midatlantic so it's way more humid then. High humidity is the main way for a door to have problems, because that makes it swell so it doesn't fit in its frame any more. But I've seen issues with doors no longer meeting the strike plate properly due to wood movement, and I could believe that wood movement could cause issues with the hinges or threshold. Both of those wouldn't necessarily be due to high humidity, just due to substantially different humidity from when the door was installed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 01:52
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:Whoever gets this house after I die is going to hate having to take apart everything I repaired. I use square drive screws for everything and I live in the US where most homeowners don't have a square drive screwdriver in their Wal-Mart toolkit. Eh, they're easy enough to get, especially if you get one of those potpourri bit sets, the ones that come with real crazy poo poo that makes square drive seem positively quaint. I mean, if you ever have to dismantle the enclosures in a public / commercial restroom, you're all set.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 04:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 13:25 |
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:High humidity is the main way for a door to have problems, because that makes it swell so it doesn't fit in its frame any more. But I've seen issues with doors no longer meeting the strike plate properly due to wood movement, and I could believe that wood movement could cause issues with the hinges or threshold. Both of those wouldn't necessarily be due to high humidity, just due to substantially different humidity from when the door was installed. This is also why door manufacturers don't honor a warranty unless the door was sealed on all six sides.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2022 06:02
|
|