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Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Give lychee a go, I haven’t used Chitubox in years

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Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I just use PrusaSlicer in MSLA mode and convert the files with UVTools. It takes a little configuration up front, but it works beautifully, and I can use one slicer for every printer I use.

https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools

parabolic
Jul 21, 2005

good night, speedfriend

If I'm looking to print almost exclusively PLA+ and spend under $550 for:
  • 350x350x350 minimum volume (more is nice)
  • direct drive and filament runout
  • reliable self-leveling (ideally with mesh)
  • removable spring steel build plate
is the answer pretty much "wait for the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus/Max to come in stock" or is there another recommended option? The glass bed on the Kobra Max ripped apart in 2/2 videos I saw and I'm not a huge fan of bowdens but maybe I'm being unreasonable on that point.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

The Neptune 3 Max (not yet released) is the only good, direct-drive printer I know of over a 350x350 bed. The SV03 is 350x350 exactly but appears to be largely abandoned.

I should note that, having two printers with 300x300 beds, trying to use the entirety of the bed is kind of a joke. What do you need to print in that kind of size?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I'm seeking a large format printer entirely to print cosplay helmets in one piece

Splitting up Iron Man helmets into 4 quadrants and then welding them together loving sucks

Odoyle
Sep 9, 2003
Odoyle Rules!
Bid on a “broken, for parts or repair” Ender 5 Plus on eBay. You might get one with all parts for about $225, then spend the rest on upgrades (BTT board, spring steel, DD).

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

sagebrush posted:

3dp guns

I mean, think about what it takes to print a 3d printer. You can't really get ~there~ from ~here~ without a lot of other work. Most of the 3dp gun stuff now is printed serialized parts, so a typical 3dp gun is MOSTLY just a normal firearm. And.. just as safe as the factory thing. Very few, very little, of this is ~functional gun from scratch~. And every libarary I've seen with 3dp stuff, has someone monitoring it.

sharkytm posted:

You're aware that there's a lot more than the printed parts required for a functional firearm? At a minimum: a barrel, magazine, side, and lower parts kit. Plus several hours of assembly and careful futzing around to get it to function at all. A zip gun would be easier and cheaper to build.

This. This so many times.

Odoyle posted:

Bid on a “broken, for parts or repair” Ender 5 Plus on eBay. You might get one with all parts for about $225, then spend the rest on upgrades (BTT board, spring steel, DD).

I like this option. Another option is "ender extender" kits.

parabolic
Jul 21, 2005

good night, speedfriend

tracecomplete posted:

The Neptune 3 Max (not yet released) is the only good, direct-drive printer I know of over a 350x350 bed. The SV03 is 350x350 exactly but appears to be largely abandoned.

I should note that, having two printers with 300x300 beds, trying to use the entirety of the bed is kind of a joke. What do you need to print in that kind of size?

I'm considering a long project to print essentially a statue, a model with some parts that would need to be printed on a 350x350 to stay in one piece. I could slice them but I'd be concerned about my ability to do that and then join them without losing some integrity. I'm printing the head on my prusa mk3s+ for the next week or so before really committing, but I'd probably want to run the project on two printers at once anyways and the upgrade from 250 to 350 was less expensive than I expected for some brands. I do think some odd props/helmets that could be done in place would be a cool ability as well, or some vase mode curiosities, but that would be more occasional.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

It’s not the expense, it’s the time. These printers aren’t speed demons, and unless you put a monster nozzle on them your prints will take absolutely forever. But it sounds like you’ve planned for that.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Nerobro posted:

I mean, think about what it takes to print a 3d printer. You can't really get ~there~ from ~here~ without a lot of other work. Most of the 3dp gun stuff now is printed serialized parts, so a typical 3dp gun is MOSTLY just a normal firearm. And.. just as safe as the factory thing. Very few, very little, of this is ~functional gun from scratch~. And every libarary I've seen with 3dp stuff, has someone monitoring it.

This. This so many times.


We're probably wasting our keystrokes, but it's worth trying to explain what's truth and what's anti-gun propaganda.

Homemade firearms have been a thing for basically as long as there have been guns. From a slam-fire pipe shotgun to some crazy stuff currently produced in Myanmar, people with very limited tools and skills can make guns. There's nothing new about it.

The "ghost gun" sensationalism is nothing more than the same old scare tactics with a new name. Most law enforcement doesn't differentiate between a 3d printed (or P80-style 80% kit) firearm and a firearm with the serial number ground off. Thanks to the war on drugs, there are black markets in every town and city, and that's where a lot of illegal firearms sales happen (or theft from legal owners and straw sales).

It's a complicated topic, and you're welcome to come over to TFR if you want to get some more information. I'll just say that printing a frame and assembling a functional firearm is far harder than buying one. Even completing a P80-style injection molded 80% gun is not quick and easy. It's also several hundred dollars in additional parts in addition to the frame. Again, it's cheaper and easier to buy a cheap factory built gun illegally. And that'll be much much more reliable. You can buy a High Point 9mm handgun for $100 on sale, $150 retail... Fully built, with a magazine and backed with a warranty.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

sharkytm posted:

We're probably wasting our keystrokes, but it's worth trying to explain what's truth and what's anti-gun propaganda.

Yeah, that's the difference, the reality of '3d printed guns' and the media sensationalist take on it
Cause yeah in reality you can print a specific subset of gun parts

But the media acts like you can just slap gun.stl on your printer and get a fully functional firearm a few hours later
which lol even if you could make a 'functional' gun out of 100% PLA the only thing firing it would do is blow your hand off

like no joke when my mom told her neighbor I got a 3D printer, her first response was "Isn't that dangerous? I heard you can print guns with those"

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Whenever you hear that just ask who told them to be afraid of it. It's a surprisingly universal reply for "scary thing on the news".

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I've been resin printing for a few years and recently decided to take the jump to filament printing. I have two questions right now, but am sure there will be more in the future.

I have a Neptune 2S and a few spools of PLA on order right now. Are there any must have upgrades for the Neptune 2S that I should add right out of the box?

Do all filament types need to be sealed when not in use to avoid absorbing moisture from the atmosphere, or does that only apply to certain types?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


ugh, my mk3s clogged overnight. I could screw with it but i think i'll probably just put in a new nozzle.

maybe a cold pull first?

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


I mean you can print a liberator with its plastic barrel, and it will explode, but the .380 probably isn't going to take your hand off

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

SkunkDuster posted:

I've been resin printing for a few years and recently decided to take the jump to filament printing. I have two questions right now, but am sure there will be more in the future.

I have a Neptune 2S and a few spools of PLA on order right now. Are there any must have upgrades for the Neptune 2S that I should add right out of the box?

Do all filament types need to be sealed when not in use to avoid absorbing moisture from the atmosphere, or does that only apply to certain types?


Can't answer the upgrades question, but all filaments absorb moisture to some degree. How much this affects the print varies tremendously from one material to another. Dry PLA does print more cleanly than old moisture-laden PLA, but it's not a huge difference -- I've made perfectly fine prints from rolls that have been sitting out for years. The layer lines just aren't as straight and even as on a new roll. On the other hand, nylon-based filaments will become unprintable within 48 hours of opening. They should really be kept in a heated drybox for their entire life.

It is best to seal all your filaments up in a bag or container with a desiccant when you aren't using them. And remember that a desiccant can only remove moisture from the air -- once the filament has absorbed water, you have to heat it up to drive the water out. Just putting it in the bag with the silica gel is not enough.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


There was solid crap jammed in the PTFE tube. Replaced the nozzle anyway. Onward.

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


BadMedic posted:

I heard you can print guns with those"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6B84XHx2IaQ

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Toebone posted:

Give lychee a go, I haven’t used Chitubox in years

Thanks, so far seems way less janky.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

SkunkDuster posted:

Are there any must have upgrades for the Neptune 2S that I should add right out of the box?
That machine should be pretty much good to go right out of the box. Elegoo has done a great job of incorporating the common upgrades you'd normally add to something like an original Ender 3 Pro into their base machines. The 2S is missing a couple of features that the newer Neptune 3 and 3 Pros have, but it's still better than an Ender and should be a very solid printer. I can't believe they're priced as low as they are these days, you should get quite a bit of bang for your buck out of it. (edit - I see that it's clearance pricing, that makes sense with all the new models the have out now)

Get it set up and running, then see if it's lacking in any areas that you might want to upgrade. The only things I put on my old Neptune 2 were silicone bushings to replace the bed springs, and the better quality Creality-branded extruder mechanism that I put on pretty much any Bowden machine.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jan 2, 2023

Bobulus
Jan 28, 2007

Just finished assembly a Prusa Mk3s+ kit. After some trial and error with the z-axis calibration not working, it's printing! I've successfully made a few minor add-ons, like a webcam arm and a tool holder. Thinking, longterm, about adding a touchscreen and an enclosed container. Got Octoprint installed on a pi 3+ and ready to hook up.

I've been out of the 3d printing game for a couple years. Whats the new hotness in octoprint plug-ins?

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



Bobulus posted:

Just finished assembly a Prusa Mk3s+ kit. After some trial and error with the z-axis calibration not working, it's printing! I've successfully made a few minor add-ons, like a webcam arm and a tool holder. Thinking, longterm, about adding a touchscreen and an enclosed container. Got Octoprint installed on a pi 3+ and ready to hook up.

I've been out of the 3d printing game for a couple years. Whats the new hotness in octoprint plug-ins?

I use UI Customizer, OctoApp, Print time genius, slicer thumbnails, Bed Visualizer, Cancel Objects. Those are the main ones that stick out to me when looking at my install currently for my mk3s+. Some others like top temp that shows the temperatures at the top always, emergency stop button plugin.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

Odoyle posted:

Bid on a “broken, for parts or repair” Ender 5 Plus on eBay. You might get one with all parts for about $225, then spend the rest on upgrades (BTT board, spring steel, DD).

This kind of thing is almost never a bad idea. One of the fun things about most of the common, consumer-level FDM printers is that they're so simple that it's rare to find one that's so broken it isn't worth repairing. I bought one of my Ender 3s for $50 from a guy that was like "it's completely broken, it's only good for parts" and it didn't even take $30 to fix it. The amount of hours that thing has run and the amount of money it's made for me since then is beyond hilarious.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

parabolic posted:

If I'm looking to print almost exclusively PLA+ and spend under $550 for:
  • 350x350x350 minimum volume (more is nice)
  • direct drive and filament runout
  • reliable self-leveling (ideally with mesh)
  • removable spring steel build plate
is the answer pretty much "wait for the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus/Max to come in stock" or is there another recommended option? The glass bed on the Kobra Max ripped apart in 2/2 videos I saw and I'm not a huge fan of bowdens but maybe I'm being unreasonable on that point.

I have a Kobra max, like it, but yeah I'm not huge on the glass bed. Ive been printing pla+ on it almost exclusively and am just in the process of building a garage printer for it.

Bowden's fine, zero ducting on the hotend cooling though which is an INSANE move. Overall a good base to fill around with and improve which is why I bought it

Really evaluate if you need the big bed, is almost entirely recommend found to a smaller unit unless you're just trying to get a huge build volume. Lots of additional complications

parabolic
Jul 21, 2005

good night, speedfriend

I decided to go with the Neptune 3 Plus instead of the Max based on the advice to go as small as I reasonably can. The amount of times I'll print a helmet in one piece compared to buying a new print sheet or heating up the whole bed for something smaller is probably worth just learning how to reinforce the curved joins in a split print.


BlackIronHeart posted:

I wish Elegoo had a 'Notify me' for their out of stock brand new printers. I really want a Plus or Max but who knows when I can buy one!

Oh also, the Neptune 3 Plus and Max are now listed as shipping in the US on the 20th and 30th of January respectively and the Elegoo site will let you place an order.

parabolic fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Jan 3, 2023

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

I love my big printer and use a fair chunk, if not all, of the 350x350 bed pretty frequently. Yeah, stuff can take a long time to print, but honestly it still beats the poo poo out of gluing things together.

Having owned a couple of 300x300 machines in the past though, that's often still plenty big enough to print stuff like helmets in one shot, or maybe just two or three parts instead of a dozen small ones. I don't think you'll be disappointed with that Plus at all.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Guess who just ruined their brand new PEI bed by installing a different bed sensor and neglecting to update the z-offset before starting a print and heading to the bathroom :negative:

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

P1P and AMS ordered! Anyone wanna buy a well used but still working Prusa i3 mk2.5s lol.

Figured I'll have the best of both worlds, Voron for ABS and P1P for PLA/Color change. At least that's how I'm justifying it to myself lol

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



parabolic posted:

I decided to go with the Neptune 3 Plus instead of the Max based on the advice to go as small as I reasonably can. The amount of times I'll print a helmet in one piece compared to buying a new print sheet or heating up the whole bed for something smaller is probably worth just learning how to reinforce the curved joins in a split print.

Oh also, the Neptune 3 Plus and Max are now listed as shipping in the US on the 20th and 30th of January respectively and the Elegoo site will let you place an order.

any idea if that's the initial batch or a new batch? ordered one late last year with the ship date listed as dec 30th and no tracking number or anything; really hope it just isn't delayed indefinitely

parabolic
Jul 21, 2005

good night, speedfriend

Mr. Mercury posted:

any idea if that's the initial batch or a new batch? ordered one late last year with the ship date listed as dec 30th and no tracking number or anything; really hope it just isn't delayed indefinitely

I don't, sorry - hope yours comes soon.

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



Hey, thanks anyway— it's not life or death or anything, just excited!

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Well it's January 2023. Where's the gosh dang Prusa XL, Josef? I made my preorder 13.5 months ago

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Sagebrush posted:

Well it's January 2023. Where's the gosh dang Prusa XL, Josef? I made my preorder 13.5 months ago

Josef is printing busts of himself on each one before shipping. I'm sure there's been supply chain issues and development issues but it does seem very long for a product they wanted to launch in 2020 or 2021, IIRC.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


this close to canceling my preorder of a prusa XL for a voron 300/350

it's just a matter of hopping on my unicorn and going to get a raspberry pi to run it

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Deviant posted:

this close to canceling my preorder of a prusa XL for a voron 300/350

it's just a matter of hopping on my unicorn and going to get a raspberry pi to run it

The Pi foundation has been making some noise about securing chips for larger runs soon, like in the next couple of months. There was them hiring an ex-cop thing but I doubt that will get people to stop buying them for their projects that are designed to run on one.
You probably know this, but https://rpilocator.com/ is pretty good for keeping track of stock when there is some.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Kinda hard to think of getting a Prusa XL when the Bambulab X1 Carbon is right there.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

I think Prusa has kinda dropped the ball with not getting the XL out before the Bambu. I'm seeing a lot of cancelled my pre-order ordered the Bambu posts lately.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
The tool changer is still pretty attractive compared to the Bambu's maze of bowden tubes, but I dunno if it's really an extra $1000 or more nice

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

NewFatMike posted:

Kinda hard to think of getting a Prusa XL when the Bambulab X1 Carbon is right there.

A toolchanger is objectively the correct way to do multi-filament extrusion, and I do yet not trust a new company over Prusa for a lab where reliability is a primary concern.

My attitude on this might evolve in a few years, the way it has on Enders (formerly abhorrent, now acceptable, though I wouldn't buy one myself). But not yet!

I am curious about what sensor they're using for the "lidar" bed leveling though. I'm not aware of anything (reasonably priced) that has the 7-micron performance they're claiming. I am skeptical that it's actually a lidar, too -- light travels 7 microns in 23 femtoseconds and i guarantee they are not running anything fast enough to measure that. I wonder if they're just averaging hundreds of measurements at each point.

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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

I am not a Prusa fan, I think buying a MK3S over a SV06 is self-harm, but the amount of waste created by single-nozzle multi-material systems--including Prusa's own MMU--through purging is embarrassing and really shouldn't be acceptable. Bambu seems to be building themselves a weird, us-against-them cult through their social media and their marketing and I'm already even more done with their fans than I am the orange people. And that their AMS is so utterly value-engineered to not work with cardboard spools is silly.

In sober light, the XL seems like the most likely option for successful multi-material printing going forward. Or, more accurately, the cheaper iterations that will be built after Prusa does the hard work for them.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jan 3, 2023

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